zKars

Well my first impression is that the seals in the end there are likely different than the B type 4 and 5 speeds, as the mechanicals are different. Never seen a kit for the A type. You’re going to have to take it apart and look what is in there for seals and then go hunting. If it’s o-rings, finding new ones is likely not that hard. If there is an oil seal, then maybe a bit harder. I have a couple of these transmissions, one of which I plan on recycling, so if worse comes to worse, I can send you the tail housing and maybe it won’t leak. As to the sloppy shifter, I used to put a 1/4” bolt through in place of the pin/C-clip and tighten the bolt down to draw the fork together to remove some of the play. If the fork is worn down and rounded over, you might be able to take it to a welder to build it back up. You can get stiffer poly bushings for the shifter rod receiver too to remove some of the softness there as well. If I get a chance, maybe I’ll tear down that A type I want to scrap today or tomorrow and let you know of any tricks, but usually its just that you get the trans in neutral then push the shifter rod to the left to cause the pin that sits in the shifter forks to move away from them, allowing you to pull the tail shaft off. Just wiggle and twist until it separates.

For the sake of reference, here are pictures of the resistor's where-abouts and appearance in the harness. And a picture of my Fluke VOM showing the resistance value. located just inside the firewall grommet. ok, 2226 ohms. Nominal 2200 ohm. If you were to go buy one, the color code is RED RED RED (2, 2, X100) (then one more band for tolerance). Blue taped to the harness Labelled as a resistor

I'm going to ad a detail about the 280z tach swap that I don't see mentioned here. There is a 2200 ohm resistor in line with the line between the negative coil terminal and the tach signal pin. Here it is in the 76 FSM. Now it would appear from the above discussions that many have not had a problem with getting the tach to work without it, so maybe it doesn't matter, but in the case where you have trouble, adding it might help.

People keep bringing me 5 speeds with chucks of bearing cage on the magnetic drain plug. Been the mid plate countershaft bearing in every case so far. At the very least I’d replace the bearings. Wish I was closer. Aren’t the balls supposed to be inside the races? Not always I guess. The good news is that the cage pieces haven’t reaped havoc with the rest of the rotating parts in any of the examples so far....

Well I dug around in the pile-o-parts and found a couple of old style diff mounts. One shot, the other in decent shape, though not new I did a bit of measuring between the old and the new, and I think I found a way to get the 35mm offset to work out. If you line up one edge of the inside of the mount so the parts that go over the cross member are in line, and turn the new mount to get the maximum difference between the location of the diff bolt mount holes, you get about 1-3/8 or 35 mm offset. There you go. Here I've blasted the good old mount and lined them up again with a straight edge. There is the 35mm diff in the diff bolt hole location. I suppose that old mount is available is anyone wants it...... I can just imagine.....

Yup, those rails are 77-78. The 74.5 to 76 have 60 degree tabs on both ends, like the front tab on those. 240 rails have studs on both ends that fit your holes. I have lots of the 240 rails, let me know if you want a set. Send me a PM.

These are the basic 280zx alloy rims. 14x6. Very light. In fact we just put a set of Falken Azenis R615kt. 195/60 -14’s on a set of these. Sticky (200 tread wear) but fairly soft side wall. Haven’t put many miles on them, but a pretty decent 14 tire performance and ride quality. Good wet weather as well. $105USD or so on Tirerack, $150 CAD here in Alberta.

Always a silver lining. Now it’s easy to drill the holes for the speaker wires and grommets. Do it BEFORE you paint it

I have never had consistent, repeatable, long term stability fuel gauges in any Datsun regardless of how clean the wiring, how new the sender or how stable the voltage. You just learn how much you use for how far you travel and how much is left when you fill up. The gauge just means “yep you just filled up” or “got some still”, but that’s about it. Pretty much gave up and went to modern senders and aftermarket gauges that you program.

10-90 ohm (F - E) is the spec I’ve always worked with. I can test a few senders....

Does it run? Be happy!

The box-o-boat-bits on their way to a new owner. Must own a lot of boats.... He does live near Puget Sound!

The 2+2 tail light trim panels are subtly different in shape in many ways. They are not interchangeable with the coupe. It’s not obvious until you lay one over the other. The 2+2 body shape is really unique from the doors backward. I too wondered about the function of the dual nubbies but I’m convinced its entirely esthetic. Either to fill a perceived visual void or just to make a “this isn’t your usual Z butt you’re looking at” statement.

Ok, ok, Dn’t mind that either.

Yup. Stock 2+2 rear end, other than the over rider bar. Interior is someone’s creative upholstery job. I myself prefer a good quilted velour interior. Pink or baby blue.

Been buying Moog parts through RockAuto for some time. No problem getting outer tie rods, ball joints etc. Summit pricing is pretty good though, very much like Rockauto.

Just like your wheel studs.

Bolts are splined into the pedal box. Just tighten the nuts. M8x1.25. When you puts nuts back on or take them off, and the bolt spins, THEN you worry. Not before.

Jim, you are welcome to any item or items you want off of this pile-o-stuff. Shipping in your direction is surprisingly in-expensive. I’ve been quoting some people about shipping a full E31 head south, and a 28x10x8 55 lb box is ~$80-100 depending on how far it’s going, so just a pair of these carbs would be pretty reasonable at around $30. Just let me know what you want to do

View Advert Nautical Paraphernalia So I’ve been going through a lot of my schiite lately, and it seems I have collected WAY more of the infamous flat top boating accessories than I thought I would need. Of course I could say that about a few other things.... There is 5 pair and I think a couple that are in pieces. So. I know there are a couple of you that are into such paraphenalia, so should you want my 75 pound box of these (or part there-of, depends on how big your boat is, I suppose), I would be more than happy to send them for the cost of postage. Advertiser zKars Date 04/26/2020 Price $5.00 Category Parts for Sale

S30 for sure, .which one, no clue. Real helpful, huh?

Thanks for the definite ID Gav. Suspicions confirmed. The only RF Chokes/Fuse thingys I have are firmly attached to 1520ZC radio’s.

Look under the car for the welded in nuts and poke a, well, a poker, ah ice pick, from the outside in through the carpet. There should be a sizable pocket on each side where the retractor reel goes that you should be able to find from the carpet side too.

As you sit in the driver’s seat. But not while fully reclined.

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