zKars

I’m beginning to worry about the length of the shutdown, and how many yard based chores the royal “we” are starting to think about. Expanding the garden, moving a garden shed full of parts (someone please come buy some parts!) etc etc etc..... I’m definitely going to have a major yard sale of Datsun parts this spring/summer. Motivated seller, let me tell you....

The top of the rectangular block on the side of the bowl is very close.

No simple task to mount a flush style sight glass into the side of a curved fuel bowl, with a float very close to the inside of the wall. Too bad the correct level is at the top edge of that flat rectangular area, rather than in the middle..... If I could find the couple that Philip gave me about 5 years ago when we discussed this last, I’d actually go try this....

All good ideas. Sourcing the metric parts was easy, no need to bring any “outsiders” to the party. The original wing bolt is definitely two pieces, no sign of any brazing or soldering, maybe just a tight fit. Red loctite might just do it. I’ll do one and see what kind of torque it can handle.I can’t use more than about three threads or I start taking up too much of the cavity for the wing bolt. TIG’ing that bolt in there is the hot tip (haha) but I need to practice. Best thing I got was a face shield with a magnifying lens. Old people....

I initially bought M8 wing nuts, but they are quite a bit bigger than the M6 which are pretty much identical to the OEM wings (other than the silver zinc finish). I can these as an option however, as they would be much easier to tighten and loosen than the stock size wing nuts. I must be spending too much time with my Grand daughter and the Disney+ movies. All I see is

Proof of concept. top is OEM, center is my forgery, bottom is the component parts that you start with. The wing nut is an M6 x 1.0 so I remove the hex head of a bolt, turn it down then run a die over it to thread. Today I will experiment with ways to permanently affix the wing nut to the bolt. Red Locktite, welding, silver soldering are all options. Sort of the same issue about the lower bolt that forms the threaded leg of hex coupler. It is threaded in 3 threads, then presently a thin nut is used to lock it in place. I would prefer to weld that in. I will likely TIG it on, then turn it smooth over the weld area.

Another TV series I had completely forgotten about! Clearly “It’s About Time” will be the catch phrase or slogan I’ll use in the marketing materials. Brilliant.

There are no stupid questions about this. At the very end, the doc says some stuff about what happens with this virus long term. The detail I picked out is that all the viruses, including all the variants of the common cold, become weaker with time, and simply enter the rotation of viruses we already have anti-bodies to, and if you do get it, it will be no more severe than the average cold. This particular one is just new, so NO ONE has immunity yet (well, some do now....) and it’s a bit of a nasty one, spreads easily (no kidding), and it’s killing lots of folks. So until we control it short term (distancing, wash hands, NTDF (no toucha da face)), a vaccine finally gets distributed, and enough time passes, the danger persists. As to origin, good luck ever learning the truth about that one. Viruses have been coming to reality for a long time with no Intentional human interference. The whole mutation thing. New ones pop up all the time. Very few get out into the general population the way this one did. Hopefully we are learning what to do (And not do) next time.

Here is common sense advice from a real doctor with real front line experience to help you and those close to you. All the details you need to know, and answers to all the questions I've had. Best I have seen by far, in every possible way. I have a new hero, Dr. Dave Price

That is a candle holder, but now you’ve got my mouth watering for some proper Irish whiskey.

Raw materials are in Young helper is learning to assemble bolts.

Man if he can $10 for those dirty brittle random connectors, I’m gonna be really PO’ed that I’ve tossed so many of those.....

If my plan comes together I won’t have to machine much of anything, let alone threads. I’m not aiming at a perfect or even a Really close forgery of the originals, just something that looks pretty close and functions properly, and that is cheap to create. My hardest machining task is to make a pointy ended bolt out of a regular one for the wing bolt, and cutting the head off of bolts to supply threaded stock. Raw parts costs will be in the $5 dollar range. I’m not even planning on getting the hardware plated, although that’s always an option. I’ll keep the few sets of OEM hardware I have for the proper restorationists, the rest of us just want to keep our air cleaners on!

Got my plumbing washers in yesterday in the mail, got the centers drilled out to 5/16 and glued into the washers. I think I have ~25 available now. I need about 12 to “Complete” the wing bolt sets I have, the rest are up for grabs. Yes I cleanup the flash in the center. I drill them out to 5/16, but they are still a bit small, so I heat a slightly larger bolt and heat melt to enlarge and smooth out up the insides. They are a nice snug fit on the wing bolts. The washers are 11/16 OD with a 3/16 ID, so they have to drilled out. Can’t find 11/16 washers with a 5/16 hole. Next I’m working on serviceable and in-expensive total wing bolt and hex base replacements. They will be functionally identical but not perfect replica’s Won’t be able to tell with just the wing and washer showing when installed. Unless my wife says we need more masks....

Most are well centered. Not as simple as it seems. May have to build a jig to hold them steady and clamped in the press die so I can do it on on the drill press to ensure no creep.

This is a job for an nice tight o-ring and/or a sharpie to mark that 14mm line on the tubes. Maybe some thin pin stripe tape? What the heck won’t wash off with gas though? Oring is fine, but it can move.... Set it then crazy glue it? Use a square cross section o-ring? Maybe turn a shallow groove in the tube? Just enough to leave a mark.

Thanks for starting this thread. One detail I’m trying to find clarification on, related to the issue of the mask as a preventative measure in the OUTWARD direction, ie if the user has Covid-19, is if they expire any raw covid 19 virus particles, or only larger droplets of whatever the body produces for fluids that CONTAIN the virus. This is critical, because in the latter case, darn near any old piece of cloth is likely to useful in capturing the fluids/droplets. If tiny virus particles only stuff is also there, then you need a finer material that will capture them. And of course none of this is an absolute all or nothing action. 50% reduction is transferring the virus is HUGE compared to nothing. At least get the mask to fit well enough so that the majority of your breath goes through the cloth and not around it. Get used to the new normal of wearing a mask while out. Put it in the oven in the evening at 170-200F to sterilize and dry it out to get set for the next wonderful “what will happen today?” world. Now I just need to make a mask with a pair of BRE red/blue stripes and I’ll be safe and stylish.

Here is the fancy virus filtering fabric/media that I’m using. 3M’s best furnace filter that is stated to be bacteria and Virus filtering. It’s their “Healthy Living” series, the best of their four commercial grades. My furnace uses a 16x25x1 filter. After the filter fabric removal from the frame (it’s own challenge), there is enough to make 16 masks. Each mask uses a 10.5” x 9” rectangle of material, 6 pleats worth. The pleats in the material is the secret to it’s expandability and easy fit to any face. The face fit on me is very very tight. All air goes through the fabric, nothing around. The nose bridge area will reveal a leak in 2 minutes if you wear glasses, as they will fog up. There is also a small strip of soft formable aluminum in the nose bridge to make it a custom fit. The only such material I had around was some old Z door threshold plates. Had to sacrifice one old rusty one. The strip is 3/16 by 3.5” We lined the second proto type with flannel (baby patterns are the only thing around.... sigh...). The filter material is made of very very fine strands and will be form a bit of a raised hairy mess after some handling that will tickle the crap out of your nose. We added the flannel layer to give you something soft over your nose and chin and to line the INSIDE. This also gives an extra layer of virus trapping. The top pleat is sewn shut and the formable strip is placed inside. The bottom pleat is also sewn shut. It forms the chin seal at the bottom. The single elastic goes over the back upper part of your head. It provides exactly the right force vectoring to pull on the nose and chin section to keep them snug to the face. Doing the ear loop thing did not provide enough tension. The ends are sewn over with the pleats collapsed. Then I punch a 1/4 hole with a gasket hole punch to tie the 1/4’ wide elastic through. I’ve tested these in the oven to 200F, which is hot enough to sterilize them for re-use. (160f is the virus kill point apparently) They breath very easily, there is no extra “work” on your part to push or pull air through them.

Aha! A positive pressure mask/hood! I’ve seen those in use at sand blasting shops and maybe somewhere at a paint shop. I’d be a hit walking around the supermarket with that on. Our prototype mask is coming along. I’m wearing it now for a hour or so to test comfort and function. Photos and complete reveal of how and why coming.

Time to shift from making silly Datsun products for a while to making masks for my famly’s use. I have two kids that are active on the front lines and one of them is not being supplied with any PPE (airline). I have a great design prototype made from (still) readily available and fairly in-expensive materials that are already designed to filter bacteria and viruses. Homemade masks are not very effective if 1.they don’t fit your face properly, 2. don’t have proper air flow through the material (will force air around the mask seal if not, think your rad cooling problem when air can get around it) 3. aren’t made of a material that can actually filter out virus particles. Yes, something is MUCH better than nothing, but... I’ll share the details when we refine the design and fit later today. If you don’t have a sewing machine, get one. You don’t need it, but it makes it easier to make them. Hot glue or needle and thread are just fine as well. Got all my ideas here. Very comprehensive https://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-Cloth-Face-Mask/

The product name has been decided. Slotty McSlot Face This after a naming contest a couple of years back that asked for public input on naming Canada’s newest and long awaited Coast Guard vessel. The most common name suggested? Boaty McBoat Face. I kid you not..... Ok, maybe EasyTime is the real winner. The EasyTime Plate will be available in two finishes. The premium finish is the yellow zinc plated disk. It will come with the pair of new yellow zinc bolts. It will be hand signed by the creator, me; “Jimmy McJim Face”, and will also have the firing order(s) engraved, also by hand. Don’t worry, I’m not a doctor, I’m an Engineer, I print neat. This near jewelry quality part will be $49.95 USD plus tracked postal shipping anywhere I can ship postal. Most US lower 48 locations are ~$10USD so most US orders with be a flat $60USD. The cast aluminum color powder coated plate is the standard finish. Also comes with new bolts. This item will be at $39.95 USD, postal terms same as the premium plate. Unfinished raw plates without accessories can also be supplied so the customer can do their own thing. “you do you” is the term I believe. $29.95 USD plus actual postal shipping cost. The plates are 1/8” thick steel BTW. Both sizes of EasyTime disk are the same price. If the distributor body has or had mechanical points installed, you need the small size. Otherwise the large size is the one you need. I’ll supply a dimension to check to be sure. L4 or L6, this rule holds for all the distributors I’ve seen. Only works with Nissan distributors for the L series engines. Canadian and other currencies will be converted to these USD numbers at the time of the transaction at the paypal currency conversion rate if the buyer wants to use their own currency. Rates are all over the place, so “actual cost” shall always rule. Payment in USD, via Paypal, is the preferred payment method. Locals can cross my palm with sufficient silver if they so choose or pay via e-transfer to save paypal fees. The instructions are simple. Remove old plate, install new plate. The Arrow points CW to get the right side up. Questions? Comments?

Now we have to talk about price. No it’s not $299. I’ll be supplying a plate, two new yellow zinc hold down/mounting bolts. The plate will be either unfinished, powder coated cast aluminum or glass black, or yellow zinc plated. I can also soak yours in water and muriatic acid and let it rust on the bench for while so if you like the patina look.... I want to price it low so that there is no barrier to access. I also want to make a bit of profit so I can afford to keep building Datsun’s and maybe invent more parts. What I’d like is a little focus group-like input. I would like a price range that YOU think is, on one hand, is the likely production cost and represents the break even point, and on the other end, the most you’d ever pay for something like this. Consider the total price, including shipping in your input. I have a number in mind, but I want to get an idea of what you feel is reasonable. Thanks in advance for your input.

Yup, just one screw to take out of the dizzy (M5 8mm head) then put it back in through the new plate. I’ll be supplying nice new yellow zinc bolts for that M5 and the M6 that you tighten to set the timing. Everything has to look new and shiny

I’ve been quite shocked how much transmission noise came and went as I changed bushings, shift knob size and weight, shift lever lengths, etc over the years. A LOT of noise and vibration comes from the trans, made worse I’m sure by internal wear and slop. A friend of mine related an interesting story that shows that Nissan recognized this as an issue. First we know about the ZX shifter bushings that have the plastic bushing plates with the embedded spring to absorb vibration, and with at some or all of the C type shifters, if you foolishly cut the shifter rod off to lengthen, or shorten, or change the angle, you find that the shift rod is actually a composite of a small internal metal rod that connects into the transmission selector hole, then a laminated rubber coating over that, then the outer metal shift rod that you see and feel. Makes welding really fun, and you will lose all that nice isolation....

She has been convinced to donate her wages to the cost of our Disney+ subscription....