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So, if I understand that correctly, the missing screw is needed for the air intake balancing work? Argh.

Ok, I'm looking at the Quick and Dirty SU Tuning thread. For balancing it says: "2. Warm up car and remove all linkage connections so that the carb's throttle plates are resting on their set screws. 3. Adjust each set screw so that the suction felt when you put your knuckles against the throat of each carb and feel the air flowing between your fingers is the same on both carbs." ... Is the set screw the same as the throttle adjusting screw on each carb? Also, my setup came with no screw in this place (next to zip tie in pic) that looks to be opposite the balance screw. The guy who refurbished them said no screw necessary there.

I have a line from that nipple to the distributor, so I think that's the correct setup. See pic.

Well, the carbs are on, no leaks, and it starts every time. Progress! Now I need to tune them. I have a Uni-Syn tool that came with the car. I'm getting no air draw on the front carb, just the back. Is that normal? I have a service manual and saw some old threads here on tuning/balancing, but if y'all have a go-to reference please pass along.

Center to center distance on those two mount holes is 1 9/16".

Wow,.that's nice. And yes, I'm wondering about the support on the carb side with that longer arm. Here is a picture of the underside. Looks like the middle hole is flipped, but the two outer holes line up.

Actually, the old flat top setup's receiving rod adds back the two inches. So, I'll insert that and should be stable enough to do the job. See pic:

Yes, interested. Thanks. Here are a couple of pics. It looks to me like the shaft is about 2" to 2.25" short on the new setup.

Hmmm. Thanks. I was just assuming the way to go for a non-welder like myself would be to affix an extension of the eyes that receive the shepherds hook.

Getting very close to the finish line. I sometimes, on projects like these, wake up and think about things I've forgotten... Like whether the throttle linkage arm is the same length on both flat tops and round tops setups. Alas, they are not. :-(. Looks like my flat tops arm is an inch or two short for this project. My options seem to be to (a) make an extension, or (b) keep looking for one. In the meantime, here are some pics....

This is exactly what I'm in the process of doing. I came across an old thread where @siteunseen had the very coolant hardline I needed if I wanted to avoid having to plug a bunch of unwanted ports. I was also able to take the old manifold coolant connector off of my flat top setup and screw it into the new thermostat housing I ordered. It was a much smaller threaded opening than in my old thermostat. Pic: All I think I need now is the coolant hose reducer segment to go from 3/4" to 1/2" on the passenger side of the engine. Checking my local industrial parts store. Pic:

Yep. I didn't have a 9mm tap and I think the hole was too drilled out to take it anyway. Next size up is 3/8". Didn't want to go higher just to be metric because there is only so much meat on that aluminum thermostat housing. Being a purist has its limits.

I bought this replacement gasket from Z Car Depot. Is it recommended to use a gasket sealant on this?

I was wondering what that was behind the left bolt hole. At first I thought it was a coolant jacket around the engine or something. Here is a pic. I went into it slightly when drilling, but not when tapping threads. Hopefully it's still in the right position.