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About ToolBoy

  • Rank
    Active Member


  • Map Location
    Venice California
  • Occupation
    Finish Carpenter

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
  • About my Cars
    Owned a 72 240 from 79 thru 85. Moved to an industrial space in a seedy area of town and was forced to sell the car and purchased a ratty mini truck. Several years later bought a 79 FJ40 with 60K miles. Now has close to 400K miles and is my daily driver and work truck. Always regretted selling that S30 and have been dreaming of recreating those memories for 10 years now. Dec 10, 2019 I'm driving 400 miles to pick 1/71 rust free Series 1 car and load it on a truck. Body is perfect but owner unknowingly swapped engines in 89 when it needed a rebuild so numbers don't match. Head and block are now from a 260 but everything else is original. It's been garaged for 12 years. I'm pretty excited.

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  1. I have used 2 part polysulfide rubber on teak boat decks and understand it's also used to glue up lap joints on the exterior skins of commercial jet fuselages because of its strength and flexibility. Probably too soft for this application?
  2. Thanks for forwarding all this great info. Probably won't have the parts for a week but will read this all thru several times and then again while I'm doing it. Bearings and seals for rear stub axles are arriving today. I'm really hooked on the mustache bushing conversation and determined to find a better solution than the pu product at some point. Great that many others are interested in the same. My car was driven into the ground and then parked with the fluids in it for 18 years, fortunately in a garage in phoenix. There is absolutely no rust but everything else is shot. I just acquired a hoist and hope to pull the engine in next month to look at possible electrolysis damage, general condition and get fussy with the engine bay. Most of my Pa. memories are as a little kid. Moved from there when I was 12. Dad was a pretty well known architect in Lancaster. I used to pedal to the book store in the student union bldg. at F and M on a schwinn ram's horn fastback. (Ha Ha) . . . From there to Corrales, New Mexico for almost 10 yrs. and then to L.A. area in 79. Been at same place on Palms in Venice since 97. Yes, we have probably crossed paths at some point. As artist Barbara Kruger said, "it's a small world, but not if you have to clean it"
  3. I just ordered 55554-E4100, 55555-E4100 and 55541-E4100 and cut and burned out the old rear transfer link rubber bushings and I'm fixing to press in the new lower ones when I have 'em in hand. ( seemed to have the best price). The space between them obviously needs to match the corresponding width of the strut assembly but the FSM talks about aligning the two bushings so the spindle will pass thru as though they won't on their own. Can anybody share wisdom on this task? Do I need to have the spindle temp- installed for alignment? Not sure what's happening here? Thanks. Andy
  4. Thanks for the follow-up. The rod does look good although it might have a few tiny chips in it and I don't remember if I used the plate and seal from the kit or the one that came with the car. The first time I checked vacuum it held and the second time it dropped a little. I cut the gasket myself but given the new info I'll leave it off when I reassemble. You're in Philly? My mom's brother lived in Philly for 30 years and my mom is from Beaver Falls. I'm originally from Lancaster.
  5. Perfect, I never noticed that passage before. I'm hoping I can get plate/seal/rod to seal well enough.
  6. I wasn't sure and knew if it wasn't right I would hear about it. Thanks for that. I'll look for that hole too.
  7. Hey HappyZ, Glad to help out a little as most of the time I'm confused and terrified. After I had mine torn apart I went to the local Z mechanic to find out how the poppett assembly came apart. He said he didn't know as he had never done it and always "sent them out". The guys on this site saved me on that one. When you tear apart the entire unit and study it you see that the vacuum is held inside the front shell between that shell and the big rubber diaphram that is included of the rebuild kit. There are only a couple places vacuum can escape but one is to the front around the plate and seal and thru the pushrod. My suspicion is that if you don't have a perfect seal at the plate and seal, the installation of the master cylinder stops the vacuum after it has been fitted. I think I checked vacuum only after bolting that on. ( I think ).
  8. I finally looked at this. When you buy the rebuilt booster there are issues with the threaded rods not lining up at the firewall and they warn that it often needs to be customized to fit your car. I bought the master rebuild kit and it was challenging but I got through it. Mine held vacuum after I was done but I tore it completely apart as my photos indicate. I also cut gaskets for my spacers and plan to silicone them in in case there is a potential vacuum leak there.
  9. Just occurred to me when thinking of your initial question. The rubber reaction disk "E" that sits against the pushrod can fall inside the housing when the pushrod is removed if one isn't careful.
  10. Ah. . . here. See page from FSM that lists parts that get silicone grease. . . calling it "plate and seal". Part can also be seen in second photo first column.
  11. Not sure if that disk gets glued in, mine's just sealed with grease but might be a good idea.
  12. Hey Happy Z, It's been a while but I haven't put the booster back in the car yet so I was able to remove the parts as shown. The push rod "D" is only stuck to the reaction disk "E" with the silicone grease and it's kept from falling out when the master cylinder is bolted in. That push rod "D"seems to be centered with disk "N" that's pressed into the front of "A". I was thinking that Disk "N" needs to seal against "D" but I'm hoping that vacuum will be sealed on the other side after the master cylinder is bolted on. Mine is holding vacuum when tested but I can't really test in the real braking world as I won't have the car running for some time. I've attached a photo of the front pulled apart to Illustrate. I wish I could say I have it assembled correctly but at some point I was winging it as I didn't take as many photos as I should have. Good Luck. . . Andy
  13. Follow-up to Zed Head's suggestions yesterday. I scored, pounded over and finally removed much of the rolled in part of the remaining bushing sleeve hoping to create that "gap" and allow the poly bushing to seat. As it turns out the spacer is still shorter than the overall bushing height (3rd photo) so will require considerable compression to get the washers against that spacer. All the big flat washers that came with poly bushings have same hole I.D. Is one able to reuse the stock washers shown above on the poly bushings?
  14. Thanks, that's great!! When I said "fit" I meant they will press in to the old sleeve from the one direction. I'll start by peening that edge out as now it curves in and is way too small and sharp for the bushing to pass. I've heard of some folks drilling 1/8 inch holes in the poly bushings every 90 degrees to soften them up a bit and can be packed with pu lube. Any opinion on that and is there any availability of rubber bushings here?
  15. The poly bushing fits everywhere except the edge where I notched it with my jigsaw. Could I not carefully remove that inward curling flange? . . . and if not, I haven't seen the stock rubber bushings available. I would prefer those anyway.