ToolBoy

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About ToolBoy

  • Rank
    Active Member

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  • Map Location
    Venice California
  • Occupation
    Finish Carpenter

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    240z
  • About my Cars
    Owned a 72 240 from 79 thru 85. Moved to an industrial space in a seedy area of town and was forced to sell the car and purchased a ratty mini truck. Several years later bought a 79 FJ40 with 60K miles. Now has close to 400K miles and is my daily driver and work truck. Always regretted selling that S30 and have been dreaming of recreating those memories for 10 years now. Dec 10, 2019 I'm driving 400 miles to pick 1/71 rust free Series 1 car and load it on a truck. Body is perfect but owner unknowingly swapped engines in 89 when it needed a rebuild so numbers don't match. Head and block are now from a 260 but everything else is original. It's been garaged for 12 years. I'm pretty excited.

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  1. Thanks Patcon, After I posted I started doing a preliminary assembly and I'm much more confident than I was. And you're right about the key. . . the big rubber diaphram holds it in. I had a hard time stuffing the bell shaped rubber piece on the central rod but it finally went in. Looking forward to getting it to close up in the end. That should be fun to figure out. Thought about modifying an oil filter wrench to make it the right diameter. Thanks for the feedback. . .
  2. Hello to all, I understand that this topic was created a year and a half ago but I didn't acquire my Z till december and my booster is ripped apart now. Patcon was super helpful by directing me to this conversation and I've poured through the discussion and the photos repeatedly. I am suspicious of the booster as it came on the car and I'm thinking it wasn't done right the last time. I'm now doing my best to match up the new rebuild kit parts with what I have and preparing to reassemble after some final paint work I still need to do. This morning I put the poppet assembly back together and re-punched the 3 divets thanks to the input and courage you all provided. I have included a photo of how I'm thinking the unit will be reassembled with a few questions. If anyone would take a look, I'd be real appreciative. Questions. . . I didn't notice when I took it apart but I'm wondering if the key that holds the poppet assembly needs to be facing up so as not to fall out ever. Also I'm thinking bearing/seal part "P" is to replace soft seal "L" . The new part is a really tight fit but once lubricated, I think it'll go in. Also thinking the metal ring side goes in first and installer pushes on the hard plastic side? And then it's followed by the serrated ring? "I" is the old dust boot which I like better than the replacement and it's still pretty supple. The poppet assembly is also a super tight fit but with silicone grease it should go. If anyone wants to chime in with comments I'm all ears. Thanks to all and stay well and prosperous, Andy
  3. Yes. actually very good. I didn't look at the following pages at first. Didn't realize the post was so deep. I'll pop the unit apart tomorrow. Thanks.
  4. Hey Patcon, Thanks again for passing the brake booster posts along to me. I missed the last 4 pages of the post the 2nd time through but found what I was looking for there. Much appreciated.  Andy

    1. Patcon

      Patcon

      You're very welcome Andy. I have yet to fully test my rebuilt booster

  5. Hello to all, It seems I have shot myself in the foot needlessly again. The expression goes "If it aint broke, don't fix it" Well, I really fixed it. Bought the rebuild kit for 7 inch brake booster, bead blasted and cleaned it up, pulled it apart and got down to the "valve operating rod assembly" There is a cylindrical rubber boot in the rebuild kit so I proceeded to rip off the existing rubber part, trusting that I would figure out how to disassemble and remove the springs etc to install the new one. Now I'm thinking the parts are permanently crimped on and not designed to be removed. I either need to find a way to dissassemble this part or order a replacement valve operating rod assy.or buy an entirely new booster if that is even an option. Can't figure out why that part is included in the kit if one can't remove the old one? Any input is welcome. . . Thanks Andy.
  6. Thanks Patcon, I read thru all the posts and comments on your Brake Booster topic but there doesn't doesn't seem to be any information that addresses my problem.
  7. Hello to all, It seems I have shot myself in the foot needlessly again. The expression goes "If it aint broke, don't fix it" Well, I really fixed it. Bought the rebuild kit for 7 inch brake booster, bead blasted and cleaned it up, pulled it apart and got down to the "valve operating rod assembly" There is a cylindrical rubber boot in the rebuild kit so I proceeded to rip off the existing rubber part, trusting that I would figure out how to disassemble and remove the springs etc to install the new one. Now I'm thinking the parts are permanently crimped on and not designed to be removed. I either need to find a way to dissassemble this part or order a replacement valve operating rod assy.or buy an entirely new booster if that is the only option. Can't figure out why that part is included in the kit if one can't remove the old one? Any input is welcome. . . Thanks Andy.
  8. Sounds like by ditching the flat tops and using the roundtops the power should be a little better? Flat top was the emissions carb? . . . What are the head options? After market head? Different valves? Do you like the petronix ignition and what sort of a setup? Thanks. . .
  9. Hey Zed Head! Do I have that right??
  10. Hey Patcon, My understanding is that the stroke was slightly lengthened but the bore didn't change. Also slightly more torque but less horsepower. If I was all about power I'd go to the fuel injected L28 but I'm more interested in re-creating the Z I had when I was a kid. Thanks tho. . .
  11. Note to Zed. . . No oil of any kind coming from the tube that delivers oil to the cam.
  12. Wow! Thanks for that Duffy! That thought actually crossed my mind but can you get the pan out without pulling the engine? (Would be easy enough for me to find out but just asking anyway. . . ) Andy
  13. Man, You guys are awesome! The story is this. . . Seller said he bought the car at 120K miles and at 140K it needed to be rebuilt. He went to dealership and was told it was cheaper to swap the engine than to rebuild the one he had, so he did that. Rebuilt 260 engine was installed and rebuilt 5 speed. I asked to see a papertrail for the new block but that was conveniently misplaced over the years. Dual weber setup had been installed by first owner but I have SU's in a box. He then said he drove another 23K miles off and on and then garaged it for next 15 years. Odometer now reads x63, 421. Sold the car insisting there was only 23K on the new motor. I was going thru the stuff he gave me and I found 2 things of interest. He scribbled notes in his repair manual that engine was swapped at 160K in 1986 and break-in oil was changed 500 miles later. Then I found 4 service receipts from 2000 and 2004 with odo readings in the 83,000 range. One with a modicum of math skill would assume that car doesn't have 163,000 miles but rather 263,000 miles (or 100K more than that?). Federal law says you're not supposed to under-report mileage or fines and jail time might be in order. I'm in the process of researching and then will chase him to recoup part of the fraudulent purchase price. At this point I want to get it running but I don't really want a 260 engine and there seem to be L24 engines out there that could be rebuilt. I will use a combination of all the coaching you guys have given me to prime the system but I'm gonna install a new oil pump just the same. As I have no certainty about the state of this engine, any parts that I know are "new" will give me a little peace.