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When I put my car back on the road in 2017 after a long nap I cleaned and lined my tank and replaced all rubber fuel lines with E85 rated Gates lines. My carbs were refurbed by Z-Therapy. I contacted them about E fuel and they said they've seen no trouble in their soak testing. I do have access to ethanol free 91 octane so that's what I run and will run as long as I can in my Z and my wife's truck. Many local Maverik's also sell ethanol free 88 octane. I also use the ethanol free for all my yard equipment. One of the big things I notice is how much easier things start when using ethanol free gas.

Obviously I like the BRE rear spoilers…….. I got mine from Motorsports…..doesn’t requie 6 bolts. Maybe 4. Why not match with a BRE front spoiler too?

I had an unexpected FedEx delivery today and when I looked at the sender's address I saw that it came from Nissan in Franklin TN. Getting it open I found a cool assortment of Nissan promotional items from the Nissan Social Media Team. I connected with them last year at the time of my 50th anniversary with the car and they in turn hooked me up with the Proto Z event in Dallas. The SWAG assortment included a long-sleeve T, HotWheels Proto Z, NISMO sunglasses, uncirculated collector cards, Chris Forsberg autograph (I'm not sure I get drifting!), and an envelope of three Z promo cards. Cool stuff!!!

I like my original BRE, below are some pictures that you never seen related to the mounting: https://jarvas240z.blogspot.com/2015/05/bre-rear-spoiler-install.html

That’s awesome. I really hope that with the marriage to Renault going asunder and some excitement building around the new Z, Nissan can claw its way back to relevance. Showing appreciation to loyal customers is another step in the right direction.

Bottom line, use non-ethanol fuel if it is available in your area. Where I live, only regular grade has ethanol, I use the mid grade to avoid the ethanol in the Z cars and the mowers. FYI, a few years ago, a friend who has 6 or so well sorted S30's had a fuel problem crop up likely from the ethanol gas. I was working in his garage and noticed the fuel smell, traced it to one of his 280z's, the oem fuel pump body was leaking fuel. He has since put non-ethanol fuel in his cars. Another FYI, I recently checked on the cost of the OEM Nissan 280 & ZX fuel pumps out of interest. They have roughly doubled in price. (was $235 not long ago). For this reason alone, the better fuel is worth it. My non-political 2 cents.

Another side project I've been working on is creating a platform to sell some of the parts I have made during this build. Feel free to check it out: Hadashigarage.com Mods, please remove if not allowed.

"This looks like political commentary." No it doesn't.

I just cant do that.

if you've got plain water in it, then I think the saying is: if it ain't broke, it will be soon.

If you look at the list of things done before he calls it "rebuilt" you can see that it's not even up to the level of a remanufactured alternator. He just cleans and polishes the parts, skims the head, and puts it back together with new seals, apparently. The guy has been doing the same thing for many years. He even has newer complaints on the various review sites. I saw a few for late 2021. But, he's got a good web page and knows how to promote. Doesn't care about reputation, apparently, just making the sale. From his N42 head web page, below. The only new part is the valve seals. The heads only have a 30 day warranty. So, anyone who buys one better work fast. "REBUILD PROCESS INCLUDES: Complete disassembly, Inspection and Pressure test Deck Re-Surfaced Reconditioned Polished Rocker Arms Cleaned and Installed OEM stock Springs, Retainers and Lash Pads Full Set of new Valve Seals Stock Polished Camshaft. (Performance Cam Kits available, discount offered. call for details) All threads cleaned and repaired as needed Full Reassembly and Valve Adjustment (Re-Adjustment Required Prior to start up) 30-day warranty Trust your Datsun to a professional licensed Datsun Restoration business with over 15 years experience."

Way to go Dan, looks great!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I saw an ad on FB Marketplace for a guy in Rock Hill selling a 260Z. It was really rusty. But the top looked useable. I asked him about something else, and he wasn't interested in parting it out. But by now he might be. https://www.facebook.com/groups/386021341481608/permalink/4960925640657799/?sale_post_id=4960925640657799

I only have the urethane air dam and no rear spoiler. My experience before the air dam was that the front end starts to "feel light" at 85-90 MPH. With the air dam it feels much more stable at even 100+ MPH.

Peep this thread If i recall correctly the issue with running the rear spoilers without one in the front, is that it produces lift in the front by squatting the rear down, which makes the front feel feel even more ambiguous at highway speeds. The Xenon type 1 should produces even more downforce than the BRE splitter, so you should be good pairing either one with the BRE rear spoiler. BRE sells two of the splitters, one is their `original` formula and the other is an `improved` variation, I ordered the `improved one`, drilled the holes in my hatch, and did not like how it looked, it was too large. I think the original would have been a better choice. Take @26th-Z's advice, the build quality from bre2.net was very nice, might go with the carbon fiber one next time I order.

You're also confusing ethanol with lead. Two different things. The good old days of leaded gasoline, and the corn lobby. Here's a pretty good summary of what's going on that covers many of the elements. The AP is, according to previous discussions, a middle of the road news outlet. One of the most objective. It's about the corn. https://apnews.com/article/biden-business-iowa-campaigns-elections-227e09a39aed1680e1f4813334aeae64 Members of Congress from both parties also had urged Biden to grant the E15 waiver. “Homegrown Iowa biofuels provide a quick and clean solution for lowering prices at the pump, and bolstering production would help us become energy independent once again,″ said Iowa Republican Sen. Chuck Grassley. He was among nine Republican and seven Democratic senators from Midwestern states who sent Biden a letter last month urging him to allow year-round E15 sales.

I think you can use any modern coolant, just be sure it's for a steel and aluminium engine. Even those good old radiators can't stay good with only water in it.. better get some real coolant.. (I got Renault/Nissan coolant IIRC in my old z's.. made for steel/alu engines.)

Started getting some orders together for interior. Prices have gone up a good bit since my last restoration but shipping costs are absolutely insane. Advice to anyone considering a restoration: Double your cost of parts to cover shipping 🙂

I have converted two of my vehicles to Evans Waterless coolant 4 years ago and pleased with the results thus far. You are correct about it not being compatible with water. However, my main concern it not a coolant mishap on the road, but rather Evans ability to preserve the coolant system internals while a vehicle is stored for prolonged periods of time.

I would be afraid, very afraid.

I'm not having cooling problems. I'm getting ready for first start up in decades. I was just wondering with today's options, what type of coolant is being used in classic cars like the Z.

Thanks Mart. Sorry, my last post I thought I should find your name. Yes, the wheel housing pics look great. That is what made me hope you had the underside too. Great that it did not need done! And I am Matt (Matthew) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks that way. It's described in the listing. The guy had actually bid and paid for a different car in the past, a Porsche for $50,500. Who knows, he might have got COVID-19. "This is a re-list after the vehicle was previously sold on BaT in March 2022 and the winning bidder failed to follow through with their commitment to purchase. This was not due to any fault with the vehicle. The winner has been banned from future participation on BaT and their buyer’s fee was not refunded." https://bringatrailer.com/member/rlife/

I shipped my Z when I moved from Michigan to Arizona last year. It was a corporate move, so they paid to ship two vehicles in an open hauler, but I had to do the Z on my own. I got a quote from the same transport company figuring that I might get a break since they were already taking two. The quote came back around $1800 for an open carrier. I then requested a quote through U Ship and got a dozen or so transport company responses. Most were around $1100, but because of my situation, none were going to work. Enclosed transport was around $1600. The best any could do was a one week pickup window and an even bigger delivery window. I was leaving on a specific date from MI, so I would have to back up the pickup at least a week before my departure. I also had rented a 30 yard dumpster to clear out anything I couldn't take to AZ and that happened to be blocking the driveway until a few days before my move. I was forced to go with the same transport company that my other cars were using. They gave me a specific date and a few hour window for pickup with about a week window for delivery. When my cars arrived (open carrier), they were filthy, but mostly intact. The side mirror broke off along the route, but to be fair, it was weak and just broke from being shaken, not from being struck. If you request a quote from U Ship, I highly recommend using a throw away email address. You will get dozens of emails immediately and they will keep coming for a few weeks. We ship cars every single day at work via Reliable Carriers and I can say that paying more does not mean better care or reduced chance of damage. It all comes down to the individual driver, the position on the truck, and luck. If your car goes on the back of the truck, it could get unloaded and reloaded several times along the way. Each time they move it brings damage risk. If it's on the bottom deck, it could get dripped on from the car above, and so on.

I shipped my z from Illinois to Florida with this company, and they did well: https://eshiptransport.com/ To be clear, that linked company basically contracted my shipment to a shipping company. The company that actually shipped my z was Safeport and theeir number is (847) 371-1891. They were a little late, but oh well, they delivered the car safely. I had it shipped in a closed container, which is more expensive but protects your car from the elements and any debris that my be flying around (like dirt from a truck, or something). Safeport had a really nice setup, and my z got loaded with a Ferrari and some other nice cars. Here are some pictures:

I have these on both my cars, 225mm flywheels. They grip good and are easy to use. Close to OE from all I read. https://www.amazon.com/EXEDY-06009-OEM-Replacement-Clutch/dp/B001B5D7TE

Thanks for the replies and the welcome backs! ! At this point, I am open to all ideas concerning the roof, as I have a lot of work to do before I get to that point! I have restored a number of cars since I refreshed my last z back in the 90's. It turned out nice, but looking back, it would have been better if I had taken it completely apart. One of the biggest improvements since the 90's is the cell phone camera. Lots and lots of pictures at your fingertips! My old z right before she was shipped to Canada...

Uups I mixed the low and high rpm up... You are right. My impressions are (the numbers are my order of usage) 1. Original distributor --> really Weak (with triples a pain) = 0$ 4. 123Ignition with 1.5 Ohm Coil Flame Thrower -->weak but Programmable (with triples a bit annoing) = 570$ 3. Original Distributor recurved with Pertronix ignitor and 0.7 Ohm MSD Blaster 2 Coil -->Strong enough for triples but not programmable = 340$ 2. Original Distributor recurved with Pertronix ignitor and 0.7 Ohm MSD Blaster 2 Coil and MSD 6530 "delay" Programmable --> Strong, Perfect for triples (but unreliable in my case) =720$ 5. 123Ignition Distributor with Crane 6300 S and LX-91 Coil 0.4 Ohm "normal" Programmable --> Strong, Perfect for triples (But expensive all together) =770$ As I said, this is my opinion/expirience

There is a new Input I was never overall happy with the 123Ignition. The main reason was, when the Engine was hot and I stopped it for just a minute, it tooks a few seconds to start... Annoing. Now I added a Crane 6300s. (low rpm Inductive with a longer dwell and changes in the higher RPMs to multispark.) Result... Perfect. Now I know, the 123 is a weak ignition. Good for programmable Stock replacement. My webers are now happy in every situation. cold or warm. always a good low idle at 600-700rpms

Hello! Read somewhere by accident yesterday that the Mallory Unilite is out of production due to MSDs restructuring. First thought was to try buying one before everybody run out, but then I remembered reading about another even better solution a long time ago. Google helped me finding Ignition123 again, and after reading this very informative thread through it's stupid question time. 1. Understood this Datsun L6 attachment is US developed, at least it isn't listed on the .nl site. However the Swedish dealer that covers the nordic countries list it and I suppose it is the same product all over? Asking because I live in Finland... 2. As I like my car to look as original as possible, but pack a bit more power, I refuse to mount any aftermarket tachs. Also, I think non working original gauges are just as sloppy. What do you guys use? I guess you still need an adapter to be able to use the old original points friendly tach? 3. No ballast resistor with these even if you wanted to right?