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About adivin

  • User Group: Members

  • Member ID: 34793

  • Rank: EnthuZiast

  • Content Count: 100

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  • Joined: 09/03/2020

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    New Orleans, LA

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  • Zcars Owned
  • About my Cars
    1972 240Z Resto Mod in process

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EnthuZiast (6/14)

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  1. You asked if I changed the clutch recently and that there may be an issue with the pressure plate. My car is in a rebuild state and the engine has not been in the car since I changed the slave cylinder.
  2. This is what I mean by the rod is still making contact. The nut is screwed all the way down, but there is no free play with the lever as suggested. Also, the rod will push into the slave cylinder with about 20mm of travel. Please keep in mind that the engine is not in the car at this time, so that eliminates any issues with clutch, etc. When I push the rod into the cylinder, it does push back out as described by Zed. So, is this thing self-adjusting and has the adjustable rod?
  3. Finally got a chance to try this. The odd thing is that even with the adjustment nut turned all the way down, the rod still makes contact with the lever.
  4. Thanks Mark! All of these convoluted instructions and it comes down to "Adjust the rod length so there's about 1/16" of movement before it starts pushing on the lever."
  5. One thing I should mention is that the engine is out of the car. I was trying to make some baseline adjustments now. So, I don't have the advantage of trial and error.
  6. I don't have the self-adjusting. I have the adjustable slave cylinder. The FSM instructions are not making sense to me. Specifially, "tighten the adjusting nut and eliminate clearance between the top of the withdrawal lever and release bearing."
  7. Ok, I found the original return spring! Still not sure how to adjust.
  8. Ok, I am thoroughly confused. My car with 12/71 build date came with the adjustable type and return spring. The replacement I recently purchased is below. It has the hole for the return spring, but came with no spring. I do not have my original spring. Can I use this slave cylinder without the return spring? If so, how do I adjust it?
  9. Where is this diagram? I don't see it in my FSM. My Fig. CL-16 is for the master cylinder.
  10. Thank you, thank you, thank you...one less thing for me to obsess about now.
  11. The bolt looks like a normal bolt, but yes the bolt is kept from turning. The nut and lock washer went on the diff side. It's the only way this thing can go together that I can see. The info from the original post can't be correct when he says the FSM says the bolt goes in the other way. Man, there is not much room to snake that 12mm wrench in there to tighten!
  12. It's Halloween so big zombie thread here. I just ran into this problem. If I put the bolt in the other way, the lock washer will not sit flush. What is the deal here?
  13. Just had the same freaking problem. I had to grind the retaining clips.
  14. It looks like I've convinced the Z Store to correct their installation instructions regarding retaining the outer sleeve. It no longer says to retain the original outer sleeve. Installation Note: When the factory rubber-in-sleeve bushing is removed for use with this kit, the inside mating surface of the Mount Bar MUST be cleaned, deburred, and smoothed, so there are no protrusions that may damage the urethane bushings.
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