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munters

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About munters

  • Rank
    Registered User

Contact

  • Map Location
    Zurich, Switzerland

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Occupation
    IT

My Z Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    240z
  • About My Cars
    I bought my Z 1985. Was my first Car. Had rust problems end of the 80's and putt it in the Garage till last year. Now rebuilding.<br /><br />
    the other Cars are 1959 Corvette, 74 Espada and the DD is a <br /><br />
    2005 BMW 335XI.

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  1. munters

    Very Cool Ignition Upgrade

    Its actually a multiple spark system below 2000 rpm and above its a long duration single spark. My 123 is already auto dwell current limiting.
  2. munters

    Very Cool Ignition Upgrade

    I am using the Crane HI-6S with a Lx91 Coil (Crane 6000-6305 ) system with it (before the MSD but the MSD died) It is a big difference with the Crane/MSD compared to the 123 alone. With my Triples the warm start was crap. with the Crane it starts always perfectly and the spark is now a real one and not a weak little glimmer as before.
  3. munters

    Observation about the speedo!

    What i learned was many cars had this and when people manipulated the milage they used a drill and thy could just turn in 1 direction. This could then be detected because of the 100k number. This has been told in the mechanic scool in the early 80s.
  4. munters

    1972 Z Brake switch / valve

    If you push hard and the braking force is not enough you need more vacuum suport. Air in the system gives you the same force just later (the warmer the brakes the later the force because the air expannds). Bigger caliper piston=more force needed. Pumping brings pedal higher up but does not change the force.
  5. munters

    5 speed swap

    Remove the spring and ball out of the hole with a magnet.
  6. munters

    S30 aerodynamics

    Facebook? What is that?
  7. munters

    S30 aerodynamics

    Thats a good one. You are impressive as always with your never vergetting anything and finding the proove as well
  8. munters

    Stock front speaker panel restoration

    Then you need to shop for speaker and measure first. Thats what i did.
  9. I went as well with the S12W not drilled not slotted. (btw i would not pass with a prop valve in Switzerland) Steel braded hoses i had to take off. (Again no way to pass inspection)
  10. I went with the vented toyota and drums. (I didnt pass the swiss inspection with 4 discs)as you mentionned. I changed also to 15/16 MC and a 280z brake booster the rest i kept stock. Passed Inspection and bias is spot on all 4 wheels block at the same time.
  11. munters

    Should I be concerned?

    Turn on the engine its not ideal but you hear it, if the pulley spins. Turn on all power consuming devices and if you dont hear a whistle noise its ok. I drive my car with the same thing on the alternator side and it works fine since 3years.
  12. munters

    My two swiss S30Z Fairlady Restoration build thread

    Sali Nils Since im trying to reproduce the Euro-chin spoiler (Lip) could you tell me how rigid it is? Is there a metall bar inside or just urethane? Thanks Marcel
  13. munters

    Front Lip Reproduction trial

    Zed Head Thanks for the scale I used a similar one. Eurodat cool site I will study it. The product I most properly use is from the netherlands I think called Eurosil This is what he wrote about the new material Eurosil 50 – require NO RELEASE AGENT!, easy casting, high quality, no shrinkage, durable,
  14. munters

    Front Lip Reproduction trial

    I got the first answer from the guy I buy the PU from and he suggests to use 1. Silicone Shore 28 for easiness but always a box needed to support the mold 2. Silicone shore 50 to 60. Still easier to use, but hard enough to use it without a box. 3. Polyurethane 50 to 60. a bit harder to use, not as precise texturing as Silicone but much cheaper. The lip itself he thinks 80 would be good.
  15. munters

    Front Lip Reproduction trial

    Hello Captain Thanks for your inputs. Im braking my brain with what if then else questions... I guess I will learn as you said. Yes, soft mold (shore A30) means easy to take it out, but needs always a box to use it. Over Shore A50 no box is needed, but it will be harder to get it out. I tend to have it harder to get it out but easier to replicate. Below the Prototype are studs to the bottom wood and give marks where to open the mold yes I will poor it at once I don't want a mark somewhere. and where the studs are, (below every mounting bracket) I will putt pipes in the mold to get the air out and to be able to "overfill" (I will poor it the opposite side from the top to the bottom of the lip ) One will be used to pour it in. There I will use a 2cmx5cm pipe to fill it. when every pipe has material it should be fine. I don't know yet if the center or the side is better, but I think the side. Those are all the Ideas I have a t the moment and hope more knowledge will be shared. Here or with the guys I will buy the PU from. The next few Days will give more ideas.
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