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Nothing brings out the scammers like posting an ad in in the "parts wanted" section of the forum. I posted an ad a few days ago looking for a left front fender for my 73 Z project. Within hours I started getting bombarded with replies stating they had one in excellent condition. Just a few clues to be aware of so you don't get burned. See how long they've been a member. One reply I got the person had been a member for 4 hours, another one was a member for 6 days....red flag! Another clue is the stated condition is always excellent...we all know that if you can find one of these it's not going to be in perfect condition. Look at where the message is sent from...it's usually from some oddball source like tap a talk . Some offer to send pictures, but the pictures are usually ones copied from some other source. I had one that sent me pictures from a legitimate ad where I had spoke to the seller who informed me the part had been sold. If you call the number and connect with a real live person who speaks broken English it's more than likely a scam. I replied to one that left an email address. I replied a few days after I got his message...guess what? It came back as an invalid email address. Another red flag is the price is usually very reasonable and includes shipping. The last fender I bought, the shipping was more than the cost of the part. One way to help determine if its a scam (but not perfect) is to ask for specific pictures of the part. I usually ask for a close ups of the front and back of the area where the headlight bucket attaches. It's a shame we have to deal with these low life's. Too bad there's not a way we could screen them out. Maybe we can help each other out by posting detailed info any time we encounter a scammer. Remember the old saying, "if it sounds too good to be true, it probably is". Paul

Moose and squirrel will not look at pictures of cars.

So I ran across a post in a Facebook group from a guy in Australia who has made a 3-D print of an oil fill funnel that screws into the valve cover. I have a similar one for my non-Zs, and I found it to be a handy tool, preventing a lot of spill opportunities during oil changes. However, while the guy's price for the funnel is reasonable, shipping to the US more than doubles the price. Owing to my redneck heritage, the wheels starting spinning in my head. It was about time I broke the rust loose in there anyway. I figured that there had to be a way to improvise a similar solution. By golly there was. I bought a cheap aftermarket oil cap and drilled progressively larger holes until I got it up to 13/16 diameter. Then with an old funnel lying around the garage and some Harbor Freight 2-part epoxy, I think I have a solution. Behold...

Ha! They must be really desperate coming to car people - I already spent all my money on my car!

finally got this car onto the autocross course!! super fun stuff, only real issue im fighting is just keeping the #5 wire from arcing onto the header, its too close to the plug to even fit an actual boot or sleeve, much less a ceramic one, so ive been experimenting with heat shrink and it works for a while but eventually will tear around an edge or something. as far as autocrossing the car, it definitely needs some dialing in, the car is very raw, rowdy and unrefined, as to be expected with a v8z driven by a 17 year old. i live on dirt roads so keeping everything set is near impossible, but if i can get my suspension set evenly then i can work on effectively setting tire pressures. i met another racer with a turbo L28 280zx, and his car was a lot better around the cones than mine, he had a lot better and a lot more dialed in suspension setup. ill try to upload videos from the past 2 events ive gone to, if youve never done autocross before, get out there and do it! so so so much fun! IMG_2686.MOV IMG_2687.MOV IMG_2782.MOV IMG_2786.MOV

@Mike

I just spent some time looking at close-ups from the Holiday Auto magazine photos you showed (thanks!) and comparing them with the other photos of the car I have collected over the years. And now I think you are right. I finally only see THREE screws. I am surprised... Maybe I just kept seeing four because I was expecting to see four? It seems I was seeing reflections in the chrome? But I cannot imagine - having fitted, traded and sold several sets of these covers over the years - that three screws would ever be adequate, because of the shape of the covers. I would not expect them to cinch down close to the headlamp housing, or to seal properly. The car on the show stand looked wonderful of course, but it probably had a lot of fettling and finessing when it came to the lamp cover fit? Thanks Kats. Every day a school day.

Installed the Skillard rear diffuser today. It does a good job of bringing it all together I believe. I was not too happy with the way that area looked bare, especially with the Zstory muffler. If I spent as much on phones as I did on car parts I might actually get a decent picture of it all.

Over the past few weeks there's been an influx of new accounts that post a bunch of spam or scams. You know the ones... What gives? Is this happening in other forums, has this happened before, or are we just unlucky? Anybody know how to stop this nonsense? Seems like the only way would be to screen new accounts or posts somehow, or maybe put a cap on how many new threads one can open in x amount of time, but all that would be sorta authoritarian. I dunno much about these sort of things, and I dunno how to deal with it in the back end, but maybe somebody here does! Luckily, at least, this wave of spammers and scammers have been obviously bogus - better than something more lucrative.

I will wager one of Cliff's beers that ... @240260280 knows.

Looks fun! I've always heard the weight difference between the straight 6 and a V8 throws the handling off. V8's are good and fast in a straight line is what I've always been told. Some reading when you're not auto crossing... https://www.google.com/search?q=280z+with+a+v8+handling+fix&rlz=1C1BOFA_enUS494US494&oq=280z+with+a+v8+handling+fix&aqs=chrome..69i57j33i160.18681j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

I'm not positive but I think the recline mechanism would not allow the seats to be switched from one side to the other. They fit so close to the transmission tunnel.

Hahaha! Russia needs more rubles.

I use Mac's Aluminum Brightener from NAPA. Spray it on, rinse it off, wheel looks new.

Not a Z car part

Seems Alan and me are only people who are interested in the head light cover 😁We are in a Tokyo motor show class room , learning every day. If this was three screw type , I would like to check design prototype cars . There might be some same character for both covers . Kats

A little redneck er I just cut the bottom spout off my funnel, it fits the hole and doesn't wobble with those 5 quart jugs. Cost, $0. Totally off topic but I just got a Chrome warning of data breaches at thezstore.com, hybridz and some other z related sites. An FYI comment I guess. See ya.

Yep, that's the inspiration. He only wants $15 US, but it costs an additional $20 to ship to the US. It was only about $8 in parts for me to make my contraption. If shipping was only half as much, I would have purchased his.

I'm convinced I can see four.

Oh, I get it... I'm not unimpressed with you. I'm unimpressed with HoldPeak's annoying act of "ride the coat tails of a long-standing reputable manufacturer of similar products by conveniently coming up with a name that can easily be misconstrued by the inattentive and make them think they are buying something of higher quality and reputation". That's what I get out of the whole naming thing.

280 is the key. I believe the crossmembers are different between the 240, 260 & 280’s.

I have the same issue on my 1970 and purchased this (see pic) from KF Vintage recently. It includes the doubler plate you are addressing and the reinforcing piece at the crossmember location. These parts address the problem of repairing the outer as well as inner steel. How is area circled in red on your car, this area rusts from the inside out?

How do you know? The poly bushings don’t fit if the sleeve is left.

Generic rubber grommet of the proper size should do. You'll need to determine the size of the hole in the latch housing the latch rod runs through and the size of the latch rod itself and choose a size that is close to the same. The flanges of the grommet will sound deaden the metal to metal contact of the latch rod ring end and the metal washer on the spring side. I think that was the intended reason for the rubber cushion. You will probably have to razorblade split the grommet to install it-- using superglue to join the split after it is in place. The grommet may be elastic enough to slip over the ring end of the rod linkage----I don't know---worth a try. Scroll down to Style 2 in this page link: https://www.mcmaster.com/wire-grommets/grommets-6/

You could even draw on SteveJ's picture. Do something. There's a lot of different mushroom shapes out there. Might be that the diaphragm has blown and since there's no fuel passing through the pump it lets oil leak out. When fuel is flowing sometimes they leak fuel in to the crankcase.

Welcome to the group @Gorp. I'm in the Austin area also. There's a local club you may want to check out if you have not already, Capitol Z of Texas.

Thought I should clear something up re Vintage Dashes. They have a website Vintagedashes.com that for some reason didn’t turn up for me when I Google searched. I was led down a rabbit hole to an instagram site and all the problems w contact. Would have been straight forward had I been led to the .com.

Are you sure it’s not possibly a 1.25?

Just got this 🤲

Just did my '71 tail light panels in December - although not sure if it's the same color shade used on the 280s. Sanded the panels, sprayed Rust-Oleum Ultra Cover Flat Gray Primer, wet sanded, sprayed Dupli-Color Perfect Match BFM0360 Dark Shadow Gray (CX) replaces T299, let sit for a day and then sprayed with Rust-Oleum Ultra Cover Matte Clear. I'm pleased with the results in terms of color and texture.

Second resistor was sited up on the firewall, kind of hiding behind the washer bottle. If your car is missing it then I presume it was part of the switch to aftermarket CDI system over the factory (Mitsubishi) igniter unit? Here's a scan of the same section of the schematic from the 1969 factory manual, which should be more appropriate for your early 1970 car. Pin #1 on the CDI Igniter is different:

Finished disassembling the rear suspension as far as I need to go with it. For anyone pulling the axles, the shop manual shows using a slide hammer, tried it with a big one - the axles laughed at that attempt. Put them on a press... and they came right out.

I went with a lighter mounted magnetic mount. Doesn't wobble too much over bumps, magnet on the backside of the case is more convenient than a vice mount. I'll probably disable the USB charger port so it won't drain the battery.

HLS30U-00027 has the brackets. Pictures attached. I'll see 26th later this morning and take pictures. Sorry for the rusty photographs. 26th is looking much better.

You have got to be kidding me!! That’s hilarious

just like to say that i own the blue 240z hs01920 that was used by hagertys in the 240z buyers guide on you tube

After an absurd amount of time and a thousand kid car washes later, I finally decided on some Rota RKR's. Money well spent I believe. Now if I'd sort out how to do body work and paint I'd have a nicer car haha.