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About JHzcar

  • User Group: Members

  • Member ID: 34103

  • Rank: ApprentiZe

  • Content Count: 25

  • Content Post Ratio: 0.03

  • Reputation: 22

  • Achievement Points: 174

  • Member Of The Days Won: 0

  • Joined: 01/11/2020

  • Been With Us For: 897 Days

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    austin, texas

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  • Zcars Owned
    Z fanatic but no car right now

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ApprentiZe (3/14)

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  1. i think the v8 weighs similar or possibly less than the l28, no accessories, aluminum heads and intake ect, but the positioning sets it off, its not hard to slide the engine front or back an inch or so to help balance, i just really need to start with a full day and a set of scales, the car has a little bit of a lean towards the driverside and a lot of rake, but i haev adjustable height on all 4 corners and i can move the engine around to help get it dialed just right, i think if i get 4 bathroom scales i can stack wood under the other 3 tires and balace the cat corner by corner.
  2. finally got this car onto the autocross course!! super fun stuff, only real issue im fighting is just keeping the #5 wire from arcing onto the header, its too close to the plug to even fit an actual boot or sleeve, much less a ceramic one, so ive been experimenting with heat shrink and it works for a while but eventually will tear around an edge or something. as far as autocrossing the car, it definitely needs some dialing in, the car is very raw, rowdy and unrefined, as to be expected with a v8z driven by a 17 year old. i live on dirt roads so keeping everything set is near impossible, but if i can get my suspension set evenly then i can work on effectively setting tire pressures. i met another racer with a turbo L28 280zx, and his car was a lot better around the cones than mine, he had a lot better and a lot more dialed in suspension setup. ill try to upload videos from the past 2 events ive gone to, if youve never done autocross before, get out there and do it! so so so much fun! IMG_2686.MOV IMG_2687.MOV IMG_2782.MOV IMG_2786.MOV
  3. cm-chat-media-video-1:4808e0eb-ec57-519d-a198-2dc2384e2854:7690:2:0.MOV cm-chat-media-video-1:4808e0eb-ec57-519d-a198-2dc2384e2854:7690:1:0.MOV cm-chat-media-video-1:4808e0eb-ec57-519d-a198-2dc2384e2854:7690:0:0.MOV trans got back in the car, it drives and shifts great! the shifter i had before kept skipping 2nd so i ordered a new one thats gated and it should be bitchin! also got a new tv cable and shift cable so i been working on installing that. car has purple one way tints that look gorgeous! timing was set at 35 total and hadnt slipped but its breaking up at rpm so im looking at my carburetor to figure out whats up. i drove it to the first day back to school and didnt get pulled over this time so im quite happy! ill update when i get it tuned right cm-chat-media-video-1:4808e0eb-ec57-519d-a198-2dc2384e2854:7690:1:0.MOVcm-chat-media-video-1:4808e0eb-ec57-519d-a198-2dc2384e2854:7690:2:0.MOVcm-chat-media-video-1:4808e0eb-ec57-519d-a198-2dc2384e2854:7690:0:0.MOV
  4. PETG, it has good resistance to gasoline and should be ok with the temps, if it has issues then i can switch materials and resolve it. i’m currently soaking a sample part in E10 gasoline for a few days to see how it reacts. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. quick update, realized i haven’t updated this in a while. july 25th: i figured out my jetting issue was timing, my distributor slipped and it had 12* total, i’m surprised it even ran. also trans gave up transmission: i blew up my 4l60(700r4) which wasn’t shocking just disappointing, i was hoping it would last longer. fully disassembled and everything flushed ect, it burned the forward clutch and the band, and the lower planetary gear set was junk. upgrades coming: .500 boost valve, hardened sunshell, wide band, new frictions, unbreakable pump rings, 13vane pump, 2-3 shift kit and full manual valve body, and i’m gonna go for a 3500stall torque converter, just give it a little more jump off the line i also 3d printed a carb spacer, after i get it running consistently i plan on porting the intake, and building a custom header for the driver side, i can 3d print 1” sections that snap together and have angles ect to model it before i cut and weld stuff, but that’s after i’ve driven the car for a bit cuz i needa drive this damn car school has crushed me these past couple of months so i ain’t been able to work on the car like i’ve wanted, but when i get it back together i’m gonna be the fastest car at the school Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. its been a min since i posted an update so here goes, ill try and keep it semi in order and ill attach lots of pics cause itll be nice to look back n see the progress ive made. shortly after my last update i did the s13 coilover conversion, and noticed a significant improvement, next goal is to do sway bars but that will be a while. i shed 19lb up front and 7lb in the rear, while not really important it was interesting seeing the difference. i used the maxpeedingrods coilovers from ebay, and they've actually been decent, should i need to replace them they are quite cheap. i did the alignment myself, -2.7* on the front and the rear is whatever cause i cant adjust it yet, and i set it to 1/8" of toe out but ill move it closer to zero toe soon. i also added a bunch of rake to the car to offset the squat some and make the car look more how i want it to. carburetor: sunk a float and set the engine on fire, but i had a fire extinguisher on hand so im just cleaning up residue, nothing major got burned thankfully, i also have been trying to sort why my jetting changes dont affect performance and it always behaves like its lean especially when it gets hot, culprit is what i believe to be gasoline boiling inside the carb as heat from the intake manifold transfers and heats the carb, causing vaporlock. ill 3d print a plastic spacer to alleviate this issue hopefully. electrical: ignition wise i lost an icm inside my hei, replaced it and things got better, been having trouble with keeping all 8 cylinders firing but ill resolve it one day. i also updated/cleaned up some wiring, so its easier to sort in that regard. i tried to wire the tcc lockup on my 700r4 but its not working so ill check my wiring again and go from there, millions of different ways to wire a 700r4 lockup. timing at the dizzy also seems to randomly be slipping which is odd, gonna try a few things after its redialed in to resolve it. exhaust: i finally built a full system for it, i loved the open headers but after my ear dripped blood onto my shiny valvecover i had enough and decided it was time, i did dual 3" in to single 3" out with a nice borla atak muffler, it sounds literally exactly how i wanted it to so i couldn't be happier, and my ears dont ring after driving the car. ill try to attach video of it. transmission: dropped the transmission for the 3rd time this year, replaced the tail shaft seals and bushings, sealed up the governor cap and the dipstick tube so i now officially don't leak any fluids in noticeable amounts, which warms my heart. tires: currently on nitto nt05, 200tw tire and they actually have some grip, combined with the suspension upgrades this thing handles really well, but is very twitchy so i need to tone it back a bit. racing: i am officially signed up for my first autoX race on august 15th, im super excited, i been working hard trying to get the car dialed in enough to go race, so if i can pass tech then i will have a ton of fun, even if i break the car at the start line ill still be happy gonna try and add pics, feel free to ask questions or leave suggestions IMG_5335.m4v 64832813541__345AF4C7-37FE-4190-B4EE-1B1B2090E00B.m4v IMG_5247.m4v
  7. finally got the car to run, and i drove it today, my what a blast that was until the trans died and i had to tow it home, and ****ed up my truck in the process. i had slack in the throttle cable so i could only get about half pull, but it would still break the tires loose in 3rd at 50mph, so time for better rubber, im getting some nitto nt05s installed tomorrow in a 235/40R17 front and a 275/40r17 rear so hopefully they will grip better. also note to future self if i need to replace the dizzy again i need to advance it more than i think. i did eventually get the lt1 longtube headers to fit my car, but its very far from just a bolt in and go kinda deal, definitely wouldn't advise unless you have more patience than a saint times 1000. if anyone wants a full writeup on what i did to make them fit i can post one, but itd really be so much better just to get a custom one made. also the car now leaks oil worse than it did before and its pissing me off, but its simples fixes, the first leaks are the fittings on my remote oil filter, i had to relocate to clear headers, but i was able to put the oil filter right behind the hole where the i6 airbox would've gone, allowing me to get somewhat of a cooling effect on the filter. the second issue is my valvecovers, the stamped steel dented around the bolt holes and lost any sealing capabilities so it leaks a fair bit onto the header, making a constant massive smokeshow and coating my windshield in oil. i ordered new valvecovers that are a cast aluminum so that they have a much thicker gasket surface that i can make seal better. after these areas are addressed it should seal, everything except those two has been sealing fine without issue my brother and i went to go look at an 82 for him, still with the original i6, it is in much better shape than mine was at first, so hopefully it works out for him, i think itll be cool both having Z's. he rode with me today as we were breaking it in and it was a lot of fun, hes been helping me these past few nights waking up at 7am and going to bed at 3am just trying to get the car done, and ive been appreciative of that i lost a trans cooler line while i was out and drained the transmission while i was driving, i think how much i abuse this trans is really proof that they arent as bad as people say they are if you do the necessary mods to them(bascially just a shift kit and up the line pressure some). ill replace the line with something better, change filter and inspect trans for damage and call it a day. in the process i had to trailer it home, and my dad forgot to lock the hitch to the ball, so when i drove onto the trailer it jumped up and slammed into my tailgate, it made me shed a manly tear, but it still opens and closes so im just gonna pretend the dent and hole in the tailgate doesn't exist, besides would it really be a toyota if i didn't constantly beat the stuffing out of it? ill upload some pics of the car and some videos of driving it, the videos are definitely a volume on deal with how nice the open headers sound, carb still needs some tuning but the engine only has 27miles on it, lots of mid throttle acceleration then letting the car engine brake to establish a good ring wear pattern, basically just running from 2000-4000 rpm with no more than half throttle, and a bunch of in between stuff, feel free to leave comments or ask questions cm-chat-media-video-TAQMBPnXfUwQnJBIj7xk2.mov cm-chat-media-video-9rCc9naPlQiGuZmTbwZO4.mov
  8. quick update: engine has been fully assembled, only had to do some minor grinding on the block for clearance of the rod caps and bolts, and of course they forgot to send the flexplate so i had to wait for that after 3days of customer service calls, but they were nice so i didn't really care. i sealed everything to RacerX's advice so now the engine should hold oil as intended, lots of nice parts so i'm excited to get it running! Engine and trans are back in the car, currently working out how to make these headers fit, if i can get the driverside to fit then ill just use a blockhugger on the passenger side for the time being. i borrowed an oxy acetylene torch from a friend and the goal is the bend the collector slightly so that it stops hitting the frame rail allowing the header to bolt up, and i've made a sizeable dent in the primaries to clear the gearbox, but i'm out of oxygen so i'm waiting on another tank before i can finish that task. i drained the fuel cell today, gonna replace all of the rubber lines and the fuel pump. i installed a fuel pressure regulator as well so that i can monitor that and keep the carb from flooding at idle. car sits almost a full inch higher than before just from the amount of weight removed from it, and it has a much simpler look now which makes me happy. i'm gonna have to get a cage fairly soon, i'm thinking the jegs 12pt cage for the 240z and just modifying it slightly to fit the zx(if anyone has done this chime in with your experience), i have a good welder and a tubing notcher so install can only be so impossible, but that'll be a summer project. i attached some pics hopefully of the engine on the stand and of my girlfriend and i installing the engine and some misc snapchat stories from building the engine and stuff. ill update again when its making loud noises! 7cc84cb45e5a4665b672a3befbfb6e1b.MOV 0f2a0ce1d465479a8577d349edea3d71.MOV 849b93a74e8948a782d29384ba135b5d.MOV
  9. you've owned lot of my dream cars, thats really really cool! the paint color i used is from tcp global, its called "Royal Crown Purple" https://tcpglobal.com/products/kus-umb-8011-qt_2, its a urethane based paint, i couldn't decide between red and blue and so purple seemed to be the best compromise. as far as transmissions i like the 700r4 but i do agree that a manual would a lot of fun, but i don't have the budget for that at the moment. however i will be putting a gated shifter on the transmission so i can choose and hold each gear similar to a manual, but it still won't quite be the same. maybe when i inevitably explode the 700r4 it'll get manual swapped. with sealing the chevy engines do you have any advice you could give? i'm replacing all the gaskets and cleaning all the surfaces beforehand but is there some secret tricks to make them last longer/seal better?
  10. more when the oil pressure has a very slight surge at idle is when it’s time to top off, it only had a 5qt pan so it didn’t have to lose much to start surging Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. a few things, valvecovers leaked, timing cover leaked, the intake manifold by the distributor has a leak, there is a small pipe plug that rotted out and leaked, rear main seal leaked and the valve guide seals on the heads were old and rotten so it burned a fair bit as well. but i have the engine fully apart now and a full gasket set ready so it shouldn’t leak a drop once i’m done with it :) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. unfortunately not yet, as up until now the car leaked about a quart of oil every 30 miles and it still wouldn't come close to passing a tech inspection, and track time is fairly expensive so its a little further down the line of places to drive. however i live on some very twisty roads that are plenty of fun!
  13. so i pulled the engine a lil while ago and tore it down, every rod bearing had some pretty nasty damage and i had detonation marks on two of the pistons. heads were fine so i sold them since i wouldn't be using them anymore. the block has been stripped and rotates in and out of the parts washer, the block isn't too heavy so i'm able to pick it up and put it in and out with relative ease, but it did damage the tray for the parts washer so i'm gonna build a new one. i plan on building it as a small cam big head type of motor so that i have room to grow later on. exhaust headers is the big hiccup i'm trying to sort out, i'm gonna try and make a set of lt1 longtube headers for like a 93-97 camaro fit, with 1 7/8" primaries they can take a little hammering around the steering gearbox if needed for clearance, since the motor pulls away from the gearbox they can be pretty close. i got a borla muffler specced specifically for a 383 so it'll sound really nice too. i'm also re doing a fair bit of wiring to clean things up, and i removed everything behind the dash except for like gauges and stuff so if anyone needs some ac parts let me know cause i don't have a use for them. i'm also removing whatever insulation stuff was there against the firewall because when i held a flame to it it created a bigger fire and i'm not very fireproof. i am also planning to do a cheap s13 coilover conversion in place of camber plates since the s13 coilovers have adjustable top hats already and id like a much stiffer springrate for the rear especially with the beefier engine. overall im very excited to continue building this car and making it faster. my build plan for the motor is as follows(let me know if something with this combo seems wildly off or something): promaxx 225cc IR aluminum heads with 2.02 valves, full 383 rotating assembly with flexplate and harmonic balancer matched to the rotating assembly, 1.5 roller tip rockers with grooved balls for better oiling, lunati barebones cam, 224/234 duration @ .050" 110LSA and 480/488 lift (int/exh), high volume normal pressure oil pump, aftermarket oil pan with windage tray and 7qt capacity, weiand single plane intake manifold(i might port it if it becomes a restriction), edelbrock 600cfm carb(only carb i have will upgrade to a 750cfm when the budget allows it) and lt1 headers if i can make them fit, 3in collectors into a 3in y for exhaust, valve springs are 115lbs closed pressure and 310lbs at .575" lift. im aiming for 9.5-10:1 compression ratio and a wider ring gap incase i decide to run boost or nitrous later on, arp bolts for everything important, 2 bolt main block but ive seen them make decent power when built properly, and the rpms wont exceed 6500 to help keep things together. the horsepower calculator estimates around 500hp for this setup, but with mechanical water pump and alternator and 600cfm carb i estimate closer to 450 ish, which will be more than enough for a street/strip/roll race car. torque converter has a 2500 stall speed so drag style launches wont be anywhere near enough power to really be breaking things, and if i do blow a diff i have another diff and axle set sitting on the shelf. i also have a full set of drilled and slotted rotors with semi metallic pads that will be going on the car very soon. im also trying to sort out a speedometer situation, i think ill end up using an 85mm gps speedometer with a 3d printed adapter to fit the hole so that i can know how much to slow down before the speed traps, theres a few spots where cops hide on back roads because theres lots of wineries and breweries so drunk drivers are frequent on the weekends so i don't drive much at night on the weekends anymore. i have a lot of ideas about the car and what i want to do with it and what direction i wanna go, i just gotta get there. its a beautiful car and its become truly my car and not just another z. i have a youtube channel that i'm gonna try and upload to more often, i have one video up from the top end disassembly (https://youtu.be/wzP2thSjRtQ). im also trying to change out the shifter to a gated shifter instead of the stock 3 speed auto shifter for the zx so that i can have better shift command, and so that i can keep the drivability it has on the street while also having the option of running it to 6500 if i so choose. if anyone has any questions feel free to ask or if someones got some advice i'm missing let me know. i have a rear strut bar that my seatbelts connect to and im gonna make a new front strut bar similar to the one apex engineered makes for the s30 to help up front as well, as even with stock struts and old tires i could feel the difference the previos one made on handling. IMG_2222.MOV
  14. i got some led off of amazon for like $90 (“vouke H6024 7 inches Round Black Cree LED Headlight High Low Beam fit for Wrangler JK TJ LJ CJ Hummer H1 H2 etc, Replace 7 inch Round Sealed Beam Headlamps,Pack of 2” was the full title on amazon) same headlights that the jeep’s use, they’re very bright, but they have a really nice cutoff for the low beams so that unless you’re looking right into it it’s not super blinding, and the high beams are awesome! i drive mostly at night to avoid any people on the roads and they work great, the only downside was figuring out the wiring, because whatever headlight wiring was in my car did not plug in and play with the headlights (the car has had a tough life so it could just be mine that’s wired wierd) but i bought a $3 relay from oriellys and made it work with very minimal wiring skills. the very white tone of the light is also very good for showing the contrast on the road of the minor bumps,cracks and rocks you otherwise wouldn’t see in the daytime. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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