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Sorry you’ve had trouble. One manufacturer’s Strut Cartridges should not be used with another manufacturer’s Gland Nuts, so let’s see what we can figure out. Which Gland Nut you used there doesn’t necessarily matter to what we’re trying to figure out here, but to cover all the bases, the one shown in your video is not an original Nissan 280Z Gland Nut. The original nuts had seals to keep the oil fill inside the shaft where the plunger rod was, and it would not fit down properly on top of the strut cartridge body (I was curious to see if we had an original Gland Nut here, and found one, so included images in case others wanted to see them). When manufacturers started making physical strut cartridges to replace the original non-cartridge setup, they all included their own specific Gland Nuts, as they needed to match the shape of the top of the strut body. Just like with Koni, that Gland Nut is the exact inverse of the top of the strut body. Depending on what strut cartridge manufacturer made that Gland Nut, it may or may not be fitting well on top of the Koni strut body; which, if not, could allow strut cartridge movement and damage. The only way that a Gland Nut could slip when tightening would be if they somehow were incorrect nuts (difficult to imagine, but not completely impossible that some random Koni application has Gland Nuts that are nearly identical but just slightly smaller, and were mistakenly put in the box), or if the threads are damaged on one side or the other (which you said the threads weren’t), or there is damage to one part or the other (even stress/wear/cracks/stretching/damage to the strut housing tube itself). Also, in your video the top of the housing seems to be shiny clean as if machined somehow. It may not be relevant, but do you know what was done to the top of the housing tube there? As far as the Gland Nuts you received, if you are able to measure them for us, knowing the exact dimensions and thread pitch/details would help us try to figure it out. Otherwise we could also just get those back here from you and confirm if they are correct. Since the Koni Gland Nut is the exact proper fit for the Koni Strut, then we should see what can be solved so that you can use Gland Nuts that hold the Strut Cartridge in the proper position. Let us know. (the first two images are of an original Nissan Gland Nut (with seal), and the third is the underside of the Koni Gland Nut shaped to fit the top of the Koni cartridge exactly)

So happy for you Cliff. I made this realization 4 years ago when I retired from the USMC. I was moving up the leadership ladder and was the likely candidate to be the Commander of8 squadrons. The price to my family and time was unacceptable to me and I realized time was the most precious and valuable asset I had. I no longer was willing to trade this precious time for money and my ego. I’m happy you took this step. When we were 25 we had time and no money but things change as we get older and wis, at some point you realize your time is limited so you can’t waste it doing something that doesn’t make you happy. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've worked for 2 people, self centered narcissistic micro managers what's in it for me type for 35 years. I made a life improving decision to go to the corporate workforce and after two weeks I love it! When I leave I LEAVE. Nothing but family matters when I clock out now. They don't even know my phone number. I took a small pay cut but the nonexistent stress evens it out by way far. My beer and stress eating make up the difference plus some. Money is time don't jive anymore. How I spend my time is #1 now. So now my time is worth more than money to me as it should be to everyone else too. Smell the roses my friends.

Way to go Cliff! Thanks for sharing the cathartic moment. We could all use one once in a while. 😎

Thanks, yes she’s in pretty good shape for 50. Car came from MD, was mostly garaged or in a carport. So far no major surprises found, just lots of small things, deferred maintenance for the last 25+ yrs. Undergoing a complete suspension and brake system update.

Mine was full of crud and slim. The piston aas not moving freely so I dismantled, cleaned it and replaced the o-rings. It has worked fine ever since, all 5 years. To get the cone section ouf the end, I heated the outer aluminiun body with a heat gun and tapped it hard on a wooden block. After tens minutss of tapping, heating and tapping it came free.

There's 3 kinds of jobs in my experience. 1. Wash your after the restroom. 2. Wash your hands before the restroom. 3. Wash before AND after. I've always washed mine beforehand. That's because I hated school and wound up working in the service businesses. I'm a hands on type guy that gets a good feeling helping those that can't help themselves. The pay sucks but money has never been a priority in my life. My parents always gave me a good life and i loved them for that. I'm so thankful for you guys positive comments on my ife decision to go to less stress/less money. I do not care about money. I want to sleep good.

OBTW...I think the instructions supplied with Koni’s are beyond terrible. I get what they’re trying to do. Have instructions that don’t required 15 different languages but it’s not a lot of work to make instructions for the 4-5 major languages in the world. When you get on forums all of the internet for people putting Koni’s in other cars the SAME Questions come up over and over again so obviously the instructions are terrible. So how about they fix them so they make sure the customers are happy with their product and confident they did it right. Just an idea? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It is indeed a rare set of circumstances to find what you have - a work situation you enjoy, people you like working with, and and an organization you can respect. Congratulations on scoring on all three.

I've got a few more years before I can retire so I figure I'll make them the best I can. I didn't really want to post about something so personal but now I'm glad I did. All the positive replies from you guys have really made me feel good about my decision. Thank you all so very much! I don't like change but y'alls support has made a huge impact on me and my decision. What a great group of friends I have here! I only hope my contributions are helpful to someone. 1 person at least and I sleep good tonight.

Look for cracks or jump marks on your cap. They look like small lightning bolts to me. That means it's jumping spark from center to the cap points. Not good.

I was referring to the photo, but see now that he also posted a photo out of the fsm for the early type. If they start to clog up they can be a pita to reset. I think they may have removed the springs to stop the switch resetting before you fixed the problem. The springs would reset the switch when you released the brake pedal. Mine activates when I bleed the brakes, but resets after and I press the pedal down a thew times. If you can't get it to reset after repairing/replacing the faulty component, you can open a bleeder on the other section of the braking system, then slowly press the pedal down until the switch resets. Then colse the bleeder.

Something I have not tried, but know people that have done it. You can cut a thread in the cone section with an M3 tap, I believe, and use a M3 screw to pull it out with a claw hammer for example. The flare on the pipe is large enough that the thread will not effect its sealing. Like I said, never done it, but know of two peolle that have done it with no issues.

There are springs, you can see them in the drawing. But after 40+ years they might not be doing much. Edit - just saw EuroDat's post. The drawing shows springs but maybe they don't actually exist. I read on a Datsun 1200 forum that only USA cars have the switch. It's one of those safety features that only the US has. They got rid of it later when they went to the fluid level sensor in the 280ZX. Apparently us US citizens are forgetful idiots who don't know how to maintain their vehicle's and will let the fluid level drop so far that the brakes stop working correctly.

I have the size of the o-rings somewhere. Ill try to find them and post it here.

Yeah, 14.3

Dizeased would tell you more cam. He's built half a dozen Z engines, atleast My first thought is what king of head porting is being done?

Been hard at work getting what seems like nothing done. I've been focused lately on acquiring and having at hand everything I will need to build my motor so that once I start the assembly, I can proceed until it is fully assembled and ready to bolt in. I am so tired of having to stop and start different tasks because I am waiting on parts, or services (machine shop, plater, etc.). Aside from the usual bits, I will also be: - Modifying the N42 intake by deleting all unused mounting holes and vacuum ports, relocating some fittings, adding one new one for IAC valve, and smoothing the outer surface in prep for powdercoating. - Deleting the distributor and going with a Jeep CAS. - Modifying the valve cover by shaving the plug wire bracket holes and breather hose fitting, and relocating the breather hose to the rear face. - Removing casting flash from the block interior. - Adding a low oil level switch to the oil pan, and removing all its failing OEM black paint and primer. - Modifying the coolant inlet fitting to convert from rubber heater hose to polished metal tube (I'll convert back to rubber hose at the rear of the block) - this just for aesthetics. Going with CPP and so I am having a mounting plate and other parts made - a friend has access to a Trumpf laser so the parts will be free to me. He's only had the model file since September 7th....of 2020! I am confident that given another several months, I'll have the parts (to include a 36-1 trigger wheel, sensor mounting brackets, and timing marker). 😁 Ahh, it's good to not be in a hurry. That said, I would like to finish this car in my lifetime. Pics to follow soon.

Hahaha!!! Got it!

Awesome Cliff!! CONGRATS!!

I think the one in your first pic is for a 280Z At least that is what I found online with a quick search. Here are some pic's of the internals for the 240Z valve I found as well.

I couldn't locate anything that would be considered a "stop" Cliff was nice enough to send me pics of his 240 and 280 and again I couldn't see any difference between the 2. Hopefully in about 3 months I can report back here if there is a difference after installing what I have. Need to remove some minor dings from the hood first. Either way it looks as if they are interchangeable so there shouldn't be an issue.

Your life is usually what you make it. Sounds like you've made yours a whole lot better. Retirement did that for me.

Nothing like Dilbert. I still need to wash my hands BEFORE I take a leak. I've gone from buying building materials to selling them. I'm a people person, love to help people, so this is a good fit for me as get older. It's a huge company, Lowes building material. I'm most excited about getting my feet wet in the "new" business model everything is going to, computers! Half my day is working on a keyboard, the other is helping customers get what they need. My years of working for a general contractor were a great help in getting the position and pay. I see me retiring from this company. All the other, co-workers, benefits and the chain of command are fantastic. I can do anything (legal) and not get fired. Being personable has cemented my position with these folks and pretty much every other aspect of my life. The Golden Rule I was taught. Not the stupid one that narcissist believe, "the man with the gold makes the rules". Don't live that lie.

My 240z has the pertronix ignition and coil. I have started using the gap used in the -11 version of the ngk plugs...which is .039 - .043. I experienced what @Mark Maras mentioned above (high RPM stumble) about a month ago and swapping plugs cured it....even though the old plugs looked perfectly good. I broke the golden rule though and changed two things...plugs and plug gap. So, I am not sure whether it was changing the gap or the new plugs that solved the problem. I suspect it was the new plugs. Checking float bowl levels is a good thing to do at some point. There are many ways to do it. I do it the way Mark describes in an earlier post. FYI, it is a tedious process if you need to bend the float tabs to adjust the levels. Can consume several hours...or several days depending on how quickly you get used to how it works. Also, read up about ColorTune. Can be very helpful in getting the mixture right. But...getting the floats right is the first step. Think of it as your macro adjustment and the mixture screw as your micro adjustment. If your float levels are not in the ballpark then you can turn the mixture screw and have nothing happen at all. J

So, someone we know is selling his 510. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-510-6/ Looks very nice.

Deja vu all over again. Working on a buddies L26 engine, doing a Weber carb jet and tune, and decide to check valve lash and replace the valve cover gasket. Take off the cover, and starting doing a SOP check up on things and what should I see? Well first, what do I NOT see? The back end of the spray bar is what! Ok, where’s Waldo? Oh thank god, there it is, laying there happy as a clam. Cam lobes don’t look too bad, hopefully this happened not too long ago. Go to the stash for the later version that has better welds. Down to one more of those. Going to have get the TIG welder out and weld that back tube into place on the dozen or so spares that ALL have loose welds ALL Along the rail. The middle ones are trapped, so they can’t fall out. Everybody go check your spray bars. See who’s home or who is packing their bags and has a ticket purchased.

I check mine at oil changes. I only do the valves about once a year, maybe longer as I don't drive it much. Thanks zkars. I will now go check mine. 💣 Another reason it's a garage Queen.