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About bluez

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  • Member ID: 34184

  • Rank: ApprentiZe

  • Content Count: 15

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  • Joined: 02/04/2020

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bluez last won the day on September 14 2021

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ApprentiZe (3/14)

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  1. Yes, when pedal is depressed about half way the booster push rod will cause M/C to bottom out. The pic shown, shows the adjustment bolt out about 3/16’s, needed torch to get it loose. Will put everything back together and try again tomorrow. Where there different types of brake boosters used for these M/C’s?
  2. The Tokico M/C is 7 11/16” long, the Sanyco is 8” long. The biggest difference between them is there is about 1 11/16” less travel with the Tokico.
  3. That’s the issue, when assembled, pedal travel was about half way. There was no play. Thanks for the pics, I saw them in my FSM. Will try making up a test push rod, before cutting the original one.
  4. Thanks, am referring to push rod. The Tokico m/c stroke is substantially less then then the Sanyco, (approx 1 1/8” shorter). This will minimize the pedal travel. Additionally the gap difference between the Tokico m/c secondary piston cup is approx 9/16” less then the Sanyco (when not depressed). A total of 1 11/16” less travel then the Sanyco. From the inside, the booster threaded valve rod allows about 1/2” of adjustment. So it looks like the push rod needs to be shortened approx 1 3/16”. Am I missing something?
  5. Hi all, Finally found the correct Tokico M/C for my Z, to replace the existing Sanyco M/C. However the brake booster piston is too long. When depressed the Tokico stroke is 1 1/8”, whereas the Sanyco is 2 1/4”. Does anyone know the length of the booster piston for the original M/C?
  6. Hi all. So when I got my 71 Z (12/70) last month the brakes were weak, barely working, after sitting for a few decades. Removed rusted front rotors and had them cut, rears were fine, replaced hoses. Drained old fluid, while bleeding the front brakes, I found that the MC front reservoir cylinder almost empty. Filled and bled, sure enough again, front reservoir was low.. Seems that when the Nissan dealer replaced the M/C back in 1986, they used the newer style. However they didn’t swap the lines.. Pedal still had little pressure, only the rears seem to be grabbing, very spongy. Guess it’s time for a replacement. Am looking to keep everything as original as possible. So what’s the best M/C replacement option, since old style is NLA? Also my leaking booster is in need of a rebuild, but am only seeing 7” rebuild kits, according to the FSM mine is a 6” booster, is the correct kit available anywhere? Thanks.
  7. Thanks, yes she’s in pretty good shape for 50. Car came from MD, was mostly garaged or in a carport. So far no major surprises found, just lots of small things, deferred maintenance for the last 25+ yrs. Undergoing a complete suspension and brake system update.
  8. Numbers shown are when engine was hot. Also, did test when engine was cold, numbers were lower, didn’t do oil check.
  9. Quick progress update.. Pulled wheels off, front rotors in need for resurfacing, measured at 12.75mm. Rear drums came off fairly easy (very surprised), in good shape. Hoses need replacement. Did Compression test 1-3cyl @165psi, 4 @167 psi, 5 @173psi, 6@170psi Just ordered new front suspension parts, most rubber disintegrated (ball joints, tie rods,end links, control rod & strut & sway bar bushings) Found missing screw on carb linkage that held the nozzle head in carb, which explains car running a bit rough and fuel seepage, runs much better now.. 76A7AAAF-407E-45FB-A471-61EFF7557845.MOV
  10. Great that you’re documenting your progress. 👍
  11. That’s the relay for the Lucas lights. Fortunately it’s mounted using the existing holes for the id plate, so no extra holes are in fender. Soon to be added to unused parts bin.
  12. Yes, the button is for the Lucas lights, they will be removed shortly.. Incredibly, I found the small plastic piece to replace the button, in the glove box. It’s been in there for 50 yrs..
  13. Thanks all. My 78z was blue, and I almost purchased another one recently, thus the reason for my I’d. Ended up getting a 71 instead, so I should do an name change.. Since I’ve been away from Z’s for so long I need to do some serious catch up. Plan is to keep it original as much as possible. Car is from Md, built 12/70. Minimal work done, over last 30+ yrs. Here’s what I’ve found so far: The good- Motor, clutch, trans, steering, lights, body panels, floors all appear good, interior, dash, seats, rugs all good. The bad- Tires dry rotted, antenna cord to be replaced, speedometer orings leaking, most hoses need replacement, suspension bushings are disintegrating, clock not working, new drivers seat cushion doesn’t quite match OEM. Still in exploring stage, car going on lift today. Can’t wait to see what lurks below. Here’s some pics.
  14. Greetings all, new member joining. Just picked up a green 71 Z. Seems to be all original, (no rust😁) with 69k miles, other then a repaint about 25 yrs ago. Planning to fix all the seemingly minor issues. Car has been sitting for many years, about 3k miles over the 34 years. Car actually runs pretty good considering it’s been parked for so long. Sitting in it seems like a throw back in time. Previously owned a 74, 78, and a 82 many yrs ago. Can’t wait to bring it back to life.
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