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I got her running well enough to take it for its first drive, fun little car, went for a blast up my back road. A few rattles and vibrations I have to hunt down and need a new filler hose so ordered that today. The car is filthy from sitting in the shop since the paint job but you can get the idea of what it will look like when she's all shiny again, very pleased with the height, just where I like it. Don't want to look like a boy racer.

It does look like the engine number was ground down and re-stamped: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-240z-170/

Of course your health care is your personal choice, but one of the points I've been trying to make previously is that the info you get in order to make your choice should come from reputable sources. If you're getting your vaccine guidance from some guy on the internet (like that fear mongering youtube video), then I think you should seek more reputable guidance. If you're getting your vaccine advice from a Facebook friend, then I think you should seek more reputable guidance. Call your doctor and ask them. Simple as that. Ask your doctor what they think. Ask them about the risks of getting a vaccine and the risks of not getting it. Ask them if they recommend getting it or not. Ask your doctor about the bad things you've heard like tracking chips and sterility. Ask them what they think about those risks. Don't listen to me. Don't listen to Facebook. Don't listen to Youtube. Don't listen to MSNBC. Don't listen to FOX. Don't listen to that wacky "news" site run by the religious cult from China. Don't listen to internet "news" from someone who calls themselves "the first port of call for the argumentative Indian." Call your doctor. YOUR doctor. Call your doctor and ask. Call them and use their guidance to form an opinion that isn't fed to you by some guy on the internet. I've been struggling with figuring out how to put that into words.

The VIN search question has come up from time to time over the years and I don't recall anyone having any luck with the DMV as a search source. Unless your car came with some old registration papers in the glove box or maintenance receipts stashed under the seats, you're probably out of luck. You may want to just consider yourself to be the second owner and continue to enjoy the car for what it is.

Yes, that is very helpful. So, for the later style, you "swap the lines". Because they are hard lines, I am guessing "swap the lines" isn't literal? You leave the hard lines in place at the compensator and bend them so they "swap locations" at the master cylinder? These are pictures from my 240z "track" car. It is a series 1 with a later style master cylinder on it.

Too bad she didn't follow that with an eraser and tell you it was bubble gum. Could have solved a lot of cleaning problems. 😎

I see a few of you noticed that I recently sold my Z of 43 years on BaT. I accomplished what I set out to do and felt it was time for a new adventure. I'm not sure what that will be yet, but I'm looking around. Anyway, I have a number of original parts left that may be helpful to someone. I'm going to try to run a continuous ad that will be revised as I dig out parts. My intent is to support the community with needed parts, not make a lot of money from the sales. Take a look from time to time. Best of luck with your projects. Dave

Also the two pads are at different heights

Thanks everyone for all your inputs. I’m not super admit about the number of owners. Just something I was thinking about and didn’t know if there was an easy way to find out but does sound like it. No worries at the end of the day I’m just glad to own one of these awesome cars! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have the Nissan 91-94 240SX FSM if you want to use. I'd have to upload it. Got it from ??? before Nissan shut them down. Describes the basics of the ECM timing control. Might be your IACV. Mike might want to consider Nissan copyright stuff, not sure why they shut Xenon down. I could put it on a Google drive too.

Well they might have been welded on but at the moment all you can see is where the seam has been mudded over, get your knife out and start digging out all the filer, I have a feeling you are going to find a lot of rust behind it. Anything is possible with POs

Livermore, CA, Dealer asking $12k - 90K miles-no date recorded BringATrailer Arcadia, CA., 25Nov2019 No Sale Bid to $17K BringATrailer,Erie PA - George Lyons 14July 2021 FWIW Carl

It's doubtful. You'd have to find people at the DMV willing to research the title, and if it changed states, that means working with another DMV (or several) to research the title. That's providing they would even do such a task.

I did this drawing several years ago to address some of the confusion on the turn signal/hazard light/brake light circuit. While it is specific for the 72, the 70 should be pretty close. Some of the connectors may be different. https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2013/01/20/hazard-switch-brake-light-turn-signal-circuit-analysis/

That's exactly what did with my 134a conversion - except I'm still using all the factory A/C components in my 260Z. I replaced the receiver/dryer, flushed the system as much as possible, emptied as much of the mineral oil from the compressor as I could and replaced it with Ester oil. That was the spring of 2009. You'll see that I live in Arizona and daily drive Goldie to our shop and back. I've had to replace a compressor clutch in that period of time but everything else is still humming. (I've also been on a campaign to lower the heat infiltration into the cabin by improving seals and weatherstrip, better insulation on floors and trans tunnel, and mitigation of heat radiated from exhaust header, turbo, and downpipe. I now have a much more comfortable car in the 110 degree Phoenix heat.) If you look way back on HybridZ you may find the scandalous pictures I took of my evaporator coil - getting temperatures below freezing... Yes, it is possible to have a cold coil and not have it become a huge block of ice (how does your refrigerator maintain a freezer section if the evap coil is 40 degrees? - it doesn't. How does it maintain a temp below freezing and not be a complete block of ice itself? cuz engineering...) And, as I always say: Do the Kia blower upgrade for better airflow - and look for Lucas Hayhurst to start selling his improved dash ductwork piece - it improves airflow out the center massively while maintaining good flow to the side vents.

Um, he didn't say he was the first owner, so what he said was correct from an English grammar standpoint. He was saying he owned it 43 years. Was there a point to your reply?

lol numbers matching, well I guess everybody wants to have a piece of the cake right now, from the z bubble

Here's a couple other '73's for reference. Notice the difference in the shape of the "1"?

We found the short causing the fuse link to blow and my Z is running again. While waiting for an auto electrics expert to help me, I discovered melted connectors on the defrost switch. The switch was left on by mistake causing the short issue. The switch was non-OEM, with a built-in light and a PO cut the console plate to install the switch. The switch light was burned out, so it was easy to miss that it was on. My expert arrived at this point and he set-up a 12v light bulb to help identify the short. He also added a 25 amp push button fuse to protect the circuit during testing. The bulb lit when connected to the circuit, so he knew there was a short. (I do not know how he connected the test light, since I was in the driver’s seat). He suggested that we remove the Accessory Relay, since it is part of the defrost switch circuit with a potential problem. With the Acc Relay removed, the light went out, so the short was identified somewhere in the Acc Relay circuit. I traced the three defrost switch wires: 1-Ground to cigarette lighter body screw, 2-to a female connector and 3-to a female connector with an inline fuse. The inline fuse contained a 25 amp fuse with a small burn hole. The inside of the holder was brown, plus part of the wire was melted and exposed. I cleaned the holder and copper connection inside, plus I put shrink wrap on the burned/melted wire and inserted the proper 20 amp glass fuse. See attached photos for before/after repairs. Before connecting everything back up I tested the accessory relay circuit. With the relay still detached, I used jumper wires to connect three of four pins. Between the blue-red wire, I attached a 12v bulb. I turned the key slowly from lock to start. The relay clicked correctly at ACC and the bulb did not light as I started the car. Success! No light = short fixed. If the bulb burned bright, we would have still had a short. With positive test. I removed the temporary push button fuse and installed the correct fuse link. The Z starts and runs fine again. Appreciate everyone’s assistance with getting my Z operational again. (My Z now blows the brake light fuse when the turn signals or hazard lights are used. Will do a separate write-up to discuss.) Nate

Very nice. The word, 'hooligan' comes to mind. Make sure you read up on the new revisions to the Ontario stunt driving laws .

Hysteria... 😉 😉 😉

https://googlethatforyou.com/?q=classiczcars dome light repair top hit

My older sister got me to eat a brown colored Crayon, said it was chocolate. I hadn't had a good clean wipe since 1973.

The graph above showing a spike but not a drastic spike for the US is a function of the number of people vaccinated. The US spike is mostly driven by the SE states with Florida passionately leading that charge. 20% of new CV19 cases are from Florida. Now as for vaccinators coming to your door, that is unlikely to happen. It is and will happen in other free countries. The Philippines will require vaccination. At present they are rolling it out badly vaccinating only 100K a day or so. With 107M people, you will take until 2035 to vaccinate everyone. Their president has already said he will put people in jail for not getting vaccinated. As I assume the only medical practitioner in this discussion, I will say that unless you have a valid reason not to get vaccinated you should. mRNA tech is amazing and will likely lead to treatments that change life drastically for the good. If you don't want to get vaccinated because you heard that people get sick after the second shot, the symptoms are certainly annoying but they are temporary and death is permanent. The thing that astounds me is the contrast between the American response to WWII and the American response to CV19. My grandmother worked in a factory making C-Rations. She had previously been a housewife. She did that so there would be food for our troops. She sacrificed. This is serious. With no response at all, it would have taken out millions in the US alone. Virus' evolve. It's not done. As I said previously, it has in some cases defeated the vaccine which means if you haven't been vaccinated, you may have waited too long. Still, the vaccine seems to be mitigation and that will save lots of lives. I have no doubt that some politician is sitting in a meeting in the Netherlands saying "spike yes, but look at what the soccer event did for the economy!" Just a small sacrifice could end this. Wait too long and it can't help us. In general, I find people who act like sheep to be stupid. The problem here is we have some really bad shepherds. Get vaccinated.

Can’t speak for all car audio systems. Installed car stereos at a shop years ago in college. The yellow wire was always constant 12v and the red was ignition switched power. Blue was auto antenna. The power amplifiers were normally wired the same yellow constant, red switched.

I went through the M/C change on my April '71 built Z 14 years ago and had to use the later style unit. I submitted the same question to the forum members and got great answers. Please see link below. It may help you.

Not sure if this helps but here are a couple of pictures of my early M/C with the original tubes connected. Hopefully you can compare these to your setup with the later M/C. I replaced mine about ten years ago, probably just before they went NLA.

It your picture the master cylinder has the output for the front brakes in front and for the rear brakes in the rear. Are you saying that the other master cylinder is different in that the output for the front brakes is in the rear and for the rear brakes is in the front? If this is the case the modification that is to the lines that come out of the bottom of the master cylinder. One solution is to bend the existing lines, this has risk of braking/kinking them. Another solution is to replace the lines from a later Z (this is what I did when I installed the Wilwood 1" which had the outputs swapped from what the stock master cylinder was). And the last solution is to buy bulk brake line and bend up/make your own new lines (or I think a couple people have used flexible brake hoses here). In your case what you probably want to do is source the original lines from an early car to return to stock...if you are going for stock which it sounds like you are.

Yeah that makes sense, especially since fiberglass was used on other parts of this car, like completely encasing the center console and the dashboard...