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About ZNate

  • User Group: Members

  • Member ID: 33690

  • Rank: ApprentiZe

  • Content Count: 14

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  • Joined: 05/11/2019

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    Sister Bay, WI
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My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
  • About my Cars
    1970 240Z Safari Gold: Rebuilt in 2012 at 136K, 280ZX 5-Speed, JDM R180 3.90, Fujitsubo Legalis R Exhaust, Trust GReddy JDM Headers, Eibach Springs, KYB Struts, VTO Classic 8 Wheels, 205/60R15 BFG ADV TA Sport Tires, Honda Wiper Motor, 280ZX 60 Amp Alternator, Kia Blower & Weatherstripping, Subaru BRZ Seats, Dave Irwin Headlight, Parking Light and Sidemarker Upgrades (All Original Parts Retained for Future Restoration)

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ApprentiZe (3/14)

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  1. All fixed! The issue causing my brake light fuse to blow was a faulty turn signal switch. As stated above, I got the turn signal switch to partially work yesterday, so today I disassembled it again for repairs, but it failed testing with an ohm meter. I think too much plastic melted into the contacts and I was unable clean it good enough. See attached photos. Luckily I had a spare switch from a later model 240Z (longer wiring harness) that was a perfect match. I was easily able to coil/roll-up the longer harness under the steering wheel. Glad to be back on the road to enjoy a Wisconsin summer. Nate (ZNate)
  2. Thank you Zed Head for the suggestion. That will be my next step if the turn signal repairs do not fully resolve the problem. Upon disassembly of the turn signal switch I discovered the bearing out of place, which melted part of the bearing housing containing the spring. I cleaned the switch, reassemble it and installed it again. Brake lights and turn signals worked on one side, but not the other. The switch also did not operate correctly. Tomorrow I will take my time fixing it and utilizing parts from a spare switch. Will provide an update tomorrow.
  3. Saw a loose wire, so I repeated my test. No more flashing sparks, but my left side blinkers stopped working. Going to take the turn signal switch apart to investigate and repair.
  4. Thank you Zed Head and SteveJ for the advice and easy to read schematic. it's much better than the magnified hard copy I have. I was doing a test with the brake light bulbs removed, brake pedal down, headlights on and then used the turn signal. I saw and heard a quick flash inside the turn signal housing. In addition, the wire and temporary fuse from the battery to brake switch got warm. Not sure if that identified a short in the turn signal switch or the extra amps from a short somewhere else. What do you think? I'm leaning towards removing and checking out the switch. Thank you! Nate
  5. After fixing the short causing the fuse link to blow in my 9/70 240Z, I now have brake light issues. I have searched the forums, but have not found this exact issue discussed or anything that I can apply. If someone could help me narrow down the search I would appreciate the assistance. I’m assuming it is a switch issue, but do not want to take them apart again unless it is required. The brake lights work (three bulbs each side) when the brake is depressed. However, if the turn signal or the hazard lights are used, the brake light fuse blows. Turn signal lights, hazards, headlights and driving lights operate correctly before/after the brake light fuse blows. Items of note: 1. Taillights were removed/refurbished over the winter and reinstalled this spring. 2. Recent issue with defrost switch/Acc Relay circuit short identified and successfully repaired. 3. Fuse box, hazard switch, turn signal and combo switch cleaned two years/2000 miles ago. No issues until now. 4. Brake switch is new. 5. Brake circuit is powered directly from the battery to the brake switch with a 15 amp ATC fuse (which currently blows). No fuse issues in two years until now. I cannot remember who I purchased this bypass kit from at this time. Thank you! Nate
  6. We found the short causing the fuse link to blow and my Z is running again. While waiting for an auto electrics expert to help me, I discovered melted connectors on the defrost switch. The switch was left on by mistake causing the short issue. The switch was non-OEM, with a built-in light and a PO cut the console plate to install the switch. The switch light was burned out, so it was easy to miss that it was on. My expert arrived at this point and he set-up a 12v light bulb to help identify the short. He also added a 25 amp push button fuse to protect the circuit during testing. The bulb lit when connected to the circuit, so he knew there was a short. (I do not know how he connected the test light, since I was in the driver’s seat). He suggested that we remove the Accessory Relay, since it is part of the defrost switch circuit with a potential problem. With the Acc Relay removed, the light went out, so the short was identified somewhere in the Acc Relay circuit. I traced the three defrost switch wires: 1-Ground to cigarette lighter body screw, 2-to a female connector and 3-to a female connector with an inline fuse. The inline fuse contained a 25 amp fuse with a small burn hole. The inside of the holder was brown, plus part of the wire was melted and exposed. I cleaned the holder and copper connection inside, plus I put shrink wrap on the burned/melted wire and inserted the proper 20 amp glass fuse. See attached photos for before/after repairs. Before connecting everything back up I tested the accessory relay circuit. With the relay still detached, I used jumper wires to connect three of four pins. Between the blue-red wire, I attached a 12v bulb. I turned the key slowly from lock to start. The relay clicked correctly at ACC and the bulb did not light as I started the car. Success! No light = short fixed. If the bulb burned bright, we would have still had a short. With positive test. I removed the temporary push button fuse and installed the correct fuse link. The Z starts and runs fine again. Appreciate everyone’s assistance with getting my Z operational again. (My Z now blows the brake light fuse when the turn signals or hazard lights are used. Will do a separate write-up to discuss.) Nate
  7. Minor Update: Retested the battery, solenoid and starter today; successfully got the starter to spin the engine. Removed and labeled all fuses in block; then installed one at a time and tested circuit by using a jumper between the fuse link spade and the 8mm solenoid bolt. Repeated adding one fuse at time and testing circuit until all fuses/circuits past the test - no or very little spark when jumper touches solenoid. Off for a few days, will update when I return.
  8. Appreciate the reply Zed Head. Have no idea why or how the link blew, it just happened one day. Car drove fine before that. Of all the car work I've done, I have never had to search for an electrical short. Guess I'll need to search google for some how-to.
  9. Thank you for the reply. All the fuses are good. Just removed the in-op ARA evaporator to inspect the wiring. No analysis yet.
  10. Have a 9/70 240Z with a blown fuse link and no power at red-white at ignition. This happened last fall before car storage, so I have researched over the winter and have worked on the problem for many days. Test 1: Everything still connected, except fuse link. Ran jumper from fuse link connection to solenoid while key turned to start. Had spark when jumper wire touched solenoid. Solenoid appeared to engage a little. Same test/result we had last October. Test 2: Everything still connected, except fuse link. Ran jumper from solenoid to positive battery terminal, but had no response. Test 3: Same as #2, but disconnected positive battery connection from battery. Ran jumper from solenoid to positive battery terminal, but had no response. Battery and starter(s) pass test at auto parts store. 1. New battery cables. 2. Cleaned all starter and battery connections. 3. Cleaned the two grounds (above the battery on the firewall and along the frame where the “white” (yellow on diagram) fuse link connection comes out of the harness). I started testing the original ignition and found no red-white power coming into the key. This suggests, battery, power connections, grounds or something along the red-white from the key to the battery. Would appreciate your help. Thank you! Nate
  11. Hi Sean, I found Whitehead quite responsive using their email address: whiteheadperformance@gmail.com In addition to exhaust parts, I purchased JDM R180 with 3.90 gears and a transmission mount. Very pleased with their products. Nate
  12. Not exactly the same parts, but I installed a Fujitsubo Legalis R Exhaust and Trust GReddy JDM Exhaust Headers on my 70 240z with R180 diff. Purchased everything from Whitehead Performance in Canada. They are a speed shop and know 240Z's well. Good Luck with your upgrades. Nate
  13. Thank you for the positive and information about your seat swaps too. To keep the Z original looking I tried to resist swapping seats, but so glad I did. BRZ seats are so comfortable. I’m planning on refinishing the steering wheel in the offseason. I think fresh black paint and a glossy reddish tint on the wheel will match the red stitching on the seats nicely.
  14. Ever since purchasing my 1970 240Z last April I found the refurbished seats lacking support. I searched for the recommended seats for swapping, but was unable to find any in both nice shape and reasonably priced. Purchasing locally appeared to be the only option due to shipping costs. In my research I found Miata owners using Subaru BRZ/Toyota 86/Scion FR-S seats and since Miata seats are popular swaps for 240Z’s, I decided to focus on the Subaru/Toyota seats. BRZ seat measurements: Seat: 19.5” wide x 19.5” long Hinge Width: 22” Seat Back Height: 33” During the research process I found a great post by Sean240Z from Feb 2013 that provided great how-to information. Before getting into the how-to details, here is my evaluation: Pro: Recaro-like; very comfortable; great side bolstering; seats recline; sturdy; drivers seat height adjustment; strap to keep shoulder harness in position; seat back release lever provides easier access to jack, tool boxes and rear deck. Con: Seats barely fit in Z car; loss of headroom; entry/exit; heavier than original seats; airbag. I’m 6’2”, 185 with 34” inseam and I fit comfortably. I must now lower my head more to get into the car. I think the max driver height is about 6’3” with the seat reclined. Installed Measurements: Driver Seat: Steering Wheel to Seat: 6” (vertical) Firewall to Seat Back: 48” Gas Pedal to Seat Back: 41” Steering Wheel to Seat Back: 18” Seat Bottom to Ceiling: 35.5” Reclined Seat Bottom to Ceiling: 37” Passenger Seat: Firewall to Seat Back: 45” Bottom of Glove Compartment to Seat Back: 31” The BRZ seats I found are black Alcantara with red stitching and leather trim from a low mileage wreck. They were priced at $200 each at an auto recycler, but they discounted them to $100 each. After a good cleaning, they are great looking seats. For installation I made four steel adaptor plates (1/8”x3”x18”). Steel purchased on eBay. Instructions: Remove original Z seat from passenger side; make U-shaped cardboard pattern of Z car mounting area and cut two 3”x18” pieces of cardboard to represent the steel adaptor plates. Mark orientation of cardboard to Z, such as passenger door side or console side. Cut off the two front “cat paw-like” portions of the BRZ seat mount. They extend too far forward and are not needed. Insert new seat into car to test fit; locate rear seat mount area to be trimmed on the Z car. Trim mount area until BRZ seat does not wobble and the adaptor plates lay flat. Paint the area trimmed so it does not rust. Determine slider position in relation to Z’s front mounting bracket and Z seat mounting holes; depending on the slider, there should be a slight exposure of the slider track rearward on the passenger door side only. Once installed, there is plenty of adjustment to slide the seat forward. Create cardboard pattern of entire BRZ seat, including slider mounting holes. Test fit in Z car and draw a line representing the front mounting bracket. Remove BRZ pattern; cut slider mounting holes and test by mounting the cardboard to the bottom of the seat using nuts and bolts. Place the Z cardboard pattern in original position; mark mounting holes and draw a line representing the front mounting bracket. Cut mounting holes and test by mounting on bottom of Z seat. Layout cardboard seat patterns, line up front mounting bracket line and determine best position for mounting holes on adaptor plates. Cut holes in adaptor plates and test fit in car; install Z mount bolt pattern, then adaptor plate patterns and finally BRZ seat pattern. Always better to test fit with cardboard than after drilling holes in the steel. Drill holes a little larger than needed, file off rough areas and test fit. If fit is good, clean up and paint adaptor plates to deter rust. Insert bolts through the front bolt holes to attach the adaptor plates to BRZ sliders. Note that sliders must move forward to access the mounting holes. Push sliders forward to mount rear slider bolts. Note the bolt closest to the door must be tightened when the seat is in the car. Place seat with plates attached into Z car. When the plates are attached to the Z car mounting brackets the bolt heads may interfere with sliding the seat. If so, then loosen BRZ mounting bolts and insert washers between slider and adaptor plate to raise the slider and clear the bolts going into the Z’s seat mounting holes. Another option is to use carriage bolts with flat heads. The BRZ seat hinge area fits very tight, so ensure that the seat belt buckle is visible. If not, it is almost impossible to access it later. After completing the passenger side, repeat on the driver’s side. Cardboard patterns can be flipped over and reused, but make sure the holes are marked to avoid confusion. Good luck with your install!
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