Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About ZNate

  • User Group: Members

  • Member ID: 33690

  • Rank: ContribuZor

  • Content Count: 43

  • Content Post Ratio: 0.03

  • Reputation: 19

  • Achievement Points: 375

  • Member Of The Days Won: 0

  • Joined: 05/11/2019

  • Been With Us For: 1241 Days

  • Last Activity:

  • Currently:



  • Map Location
    Sister Bay, WI
  • Occupation

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
  • About my Cars
    1970 240Z Safari Gold: Rebuilt in 2012 at 136K, 280ZX 5-Speed, JDM R180 3.90, Fujitsubo Legalis R Exhaust, Trust GReddy JDM Headers, Eibach Springs, KYB Struts, VTO Classic 8 Wheels, 205/60R15 BFG ADV TA Sport Tires, Honda Wiper Motor, 280ZX 60 Amp Alternator, Kia Blower & Weatherstripping, Subaru BRZ Seats, Dave Irwin Headlight, Parking Light and Sidemarker Upgrades (All Original Parts Retained for Future Restoration)

Zcar VIN Registry

  • Zcar 1 VIN

ZNate's Achievements


ContribuZor (5/14)

  • Reacting Well Rare
  • Dedicated Rare
  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Conversation Starter

Recent Badges



  1. I’m back in business. Installed my rebuilt Cardone distributor and the engine fired right up. Very easy to set timing and adjust my new ZTherapy carbs. Had to install my old Bosch coil wire because the new NGK wire would not fit tight on the Flamethrower coil. It looks like the wire does not push deep enough into the coil, plus the boot has a rib inside which limits the wire insertion. Will work with it and see if I can make it work. So happy to have my car back on the road. Appreciate everyone’s advice along the way. Nate
  2. RabbitZ, The small black wire with female bullet terminal is for running accessories (e.g. fog lights) directly off the battery. I have two black battery cables, identical to yours, with with red/black terminal protectors. (I was unable to find separate red and black cables in my area.) Although I run accessories off my Z battery, I have taped off the small black wire you are asking about. My Z has three separate accessory connections off the positive side of the battery. The ring connectors attach to the terminal bolt, then to a fuse, before powering the respective accessory. My accessories were purchased from a forum member at https://www.datsun-240z-upgrades.net My accessories include Headlight, Parking Light upgrades, plus another that I cannot remember. In the attached photos the flashlight and yellow cutter point to the taped-off black terminal. You can also see the ring connectors on the battery terminal and one of the inline fuses a couple inches from the battery. Good Luck with your Z!
  3. Siteunseen, Thank you for the suggestions. I checked my firing order again and it is correct. The distributor advance is frozen; no movement at all. It looks to be at full advance, so the timing is too far off to start. I am having the distributor remanufactured/rebuilt by Cardone (31-607), via a national auto parts store since no dizzys are available off the shelf. No money up front, but $170 once completed. The store handles all the shipping. Expect to have the dizzy returned in about 10-14 days. One year warranty. (Normally the work takes 3-5 days, but I’m told it could be 7-10 days.) There are used, working dizzys available for $295-$350, but no guarantee how long they will work once installed. Add the cost of a future rebuild and it gets expensive. Regarding the new NGK wires I purchased; they are 8MM vs the old Bosch wires at 7MM. Total weight for the NGK wires is double that of the Bosch. The only issue I found was installing the NGK coil wire. The snout on Flamethrower coils appears to be larger than stock coils, so the boot took lots of effort to slide in place. I will report again in a couple weeks. Thank you, Nate
  4. The saga continues, the engine will not start. Installed new NGK plug wires, OEM cap and NGK plugs, but I’m still noticing “kickback”. More kickback at at Advance/Retard mid-point and less at full Retard. I read about sticky/frozen distributor advance mechanisms causing engine starting issues. So if it is frozen too far advanced, the engine will not start. I tried moving the distributor base plate, where the Pertronix unit is attached, but it does not move. According to a 2010 post, frozen advance mechanisms is common. The solution was to replace the distributor. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/38037-240z-ignition-timing-carb-sync-need-help/ Before I order a new rebuilt distributor, is there anything I can do to the recently purchased, used distributor now installed on the car or is it just a core? Thank you! Nate
  5. Steve/Siteunseen, Thank you for the suggestions. Parts on order for Monday, August 8 delivery. My wires were Bosch 7MM that looked new when I purchased the car in 2019 (3500 miles ago). Have upgraded/fixed everything else, so I should have replaced the wires earlier. By surprise, the Bosch wire ends separated from the boot as I removed them from the Mallory cap and transferred them to the OEM cap, which did not go well.
  6. No start again... Engine ran great for 15 minutes yesterday with distributor at full retard, but today I'm experiencing the same blowback while trying to start it. The only thing I did was switch a few plug wires because they were touching the cam/valve cover. Had difficulty inserting the wire ends into the new distributor cap, so a couple got mangled a bit. There appears to be a little lip between the plastic and metal inside the female insert on the cap, which catches the male wire end. I thought I fixed the wire ends pretty well, so not sure what to fix/replace now. Very frustrated
  7. Got it! Distributor was too far advanced. Had the distributor set to the mid-point marker, but turned it full retard to start the engine. Runs pretty smooth at 1100 rpm, but now I need to set the timing and fine tune the new ZTherapy carbs. Thank you for all your help! Nate
  8. Still no luck… Since my last post on July 17, I have completed the following: 1. Installed clean, used 240Z distributor. 2. Installed Pertronix Ignitor II, plus new cap and rotor. 3. Reset oil pump shaft to 11:25 position at TDC, previously it was a notch off. 4. Installed vacuum line to #1 carb. At TDC, the rotor now points just below the 9 o’clock position. While cranking the starter, there is ignition firing that “blows back” and slows or bogs down the starter. Do I have the distributor installed 180 degrees off? I used a small rubber plug to locate the compression stroke for TDC. When it popped off, I used that location for aligning TDC.
  9. Since my Mallory specific Pertronix failed, I am going to install an original 240Z dizzy. Should have it in a few days. Probably going to purchase a newer version of Pertronix and the OEM type cap and rotor. Do not think the Mallory parts will work on the OEM unit. Will provide and update when I get my parts. Thank you!
  10. Zed Head: Thank you for the testing information. Performed the test and power is constant. Also did the test with the cap on, with same results. So it looks like the module has quit. The photo shows my rigged up test and meter reading. I can think of two instances where it may have been damaged. 1. I did a test drive to adjust timing with the new carbs. I pulled to the road side and turned on my flashers, which caused my amp meter to go wild. It then blew the 20 amp fuse. 2. After the flashers quit, I drove home and used the right turn signal, which caused the engine to die. Got it restarted, but had no gauges or brake lights on the drive home. Another 20 amp fuse blew. Never had fuse problems before. After replacing the fuses, the flashers and turn signals work fine. FYI, I have cleaned up all my switches in the past couple years (2K miles), so they should be fine. So where does this leave me? 1. Purchase another Pertronix version 1 or, 2. Purchase stock 240Z distributor and install Pertronix or, 3. Purchase a stock 280ZX distributor, which includes electronic ignition. Part stores have rebuilt units for about $160. I guess I can do more research, but these are some questions I would need to answer too: Will my current rotor and cap fit these different distributors? My current Pertronix set-up bypasses the ballast resistor and uses a 3 Ohm coil. Will I need to install a stock coil and hook up the ballast resistor?
  11. Read about the downsides of Pertronix version 1, so I have been careful about leaving the key ON. Let me dig up some alligator clips and I'll test the module. Not sure if I can get the test completed tonight or tomorrow morning.
  12. I tried getting spark from both ends of the coil wire on the chance I was doing it wrong, but still no spark. The entire ignition was new (Pertronix, rotor, cap, 3.0 Ohm Flamethrower coil) 1500 miles ago, except for the albatross distributor.
  13. Zed Head: I pulled the coil wire from the coil for testing. I'll try again with a different ground.
  14. I guess I need to determine 10 degrees BTDC for aligning the oil pump shaft? Is there a way to measure or identify this spot this or is it trial and error? If the distributor post is at 12:00, then the rotor needs to be at 12:35?
  15. The full twist left or right does not line up with #1, so no spark. Even if I move #1 to a different post on the distributor, there will not be an alignment/spark. I think I need to move the oil pump shaft so I can set up an alignment of the rotor and a distributor post. Should the rotor/shaft align exactly to a post or slightly before/after? Originally the rotor aligned slightly before the #1 plug wire/post, but the timing was around 20 degrees advanced, with no adjustment left to retard the timing.
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.