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This and the fact that I kept getting redirected to Dana when browsing the Spicer website got me curious so I did a little digging and this is what I found... In 1904, Clarence W. Spicer, engineer, inventor, and founder of the company, began manufacturing universal joints in Plainfield, New Jersey. Also in 1904, the first C.W. Spicer "u-joints" were shipped to Corbin Motor Company in Connecticut. In 1905, Spicer Universal Joint Manufacturing Company was incorporated.[3] In 1909, the company changed its name to Spicer Manufacturing Company. In 1910, Spicer relocated to South Plainfield, New Jersey.[3] In 1914, Charles Dana joined the company. In 1922, Spicer was listed on the New York Stock Exchange. In 1925, Spicer expanded internationally taking a holding in licensee in England, Hardy, renamed Hardy Spicer. In 1946, Dana became president and treasurer, and the company was renamed the Dana Corporation. Spicer becomes the brand name for the company's driveline products.[4] References: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spicer_Manufacturing_Company https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dana_Incorporated

pogden, Sounds like great progress. And to add a little more detail to what Steve mentioned above... The Volt warning lamp does more than just light up when there's an issue. It also supplies "bootstrap" current to the alternator system to get it up and working properly when you first start the car. As you found out, you should use an incandescent bulb in that application or things might not work right. Obviously.

Yeah, I'd be happy to help if it weren't at the opposite corner of the state. Upper left corner is about seven or eight hours away from the lower right. I agree on the purpose of those plastic plugs... Back in the old days, they would drill holes, stick a wand in to spray rust preventative goop inside and then plug the holes with caps like that. The most well known company was "Ziebart". I can't believe they went right through the VIN tag though. "My boss says I need to put the holes one foot apart. So I put the holes one foot apart. That's my job."

I chased a couple of electrical issues. My parking lights, tail lights, and instrument lights stopped working shortly after I took my dash partly apart for another problem. I discovered that the 15A fuse in my Dave Irwin (@Zs-ondabrain) parking light relay mod was blown. After a bit of further troubleshooting (and unnecessarily re-dismantling of my dashboard), I found the problem. While tidying up after my previous issue, I was re-tucking the wires behind the console and noticed a male and female bullet connector had fallen apart, which I just reconnected. Turns out, those connectors were power and ground for the (unused) automatic transmission selector lamp, snapping them together made a pretty nice short circuit! They have now been taped up to prevent such foolishness in the future. I also fixed my turn signals, which had stopped working about the same time. Basic troubleshooting was getting me nowhere, but a quick search here led me to a similar problem in which @Captain Obvious recommended the obvious: bypassing the hazard switch. As soon as I did that, the blinkers started working again. Removed the hazard switch, took it apart and cleaned the contacts with DeOxIt and my wife's emery board, tested it, replaced it and now everything is working again. My initial problem (the one that caused me to get into the dash in the first place) was kind of strange. A couple of weeks after getting the car running I went to start it and the battery was completely dead. It didn't take long to figure out that the alternator wasn't working. I never noticed because I just took short joy rides around the neighborhood, and apparently hooked my battery tender up often enough that the battery "seemed" to be fine. Once again, an old post on this site led me to wonder why my charge light wasn't working. I bypassed the charge lamp and the alternator starting charging! I remembered testing all of the gauge lights when I replaced them with LEDs and was sure the charge light worked then. But I vaguely remembered that LEDs are polarity sensitive and wondered if that had something to do with it, or maybe it was just the fact that the charging circuit depended on seeing the load of the charge light to work properly. I replaced the LED charge lamp with an incandescent one, and the charge lamp (and my alternator) started to work just fine.

I am knee deep in the middle of restoring my '71 Z and on a hunt for the center resonator for the stock exhaust system. As of now I have the JDM Car Parts downpipe and repop of the original muffler, but its the bits in between that I cannot find. Has anyone came across a close alternative to the Nichira resonator? I have looked across the internet for one that's close but they are either too wide or too long to fit in the trans tunnel. I have one with me that measures roughly 6" wide and 12" long on the canister. It's not useable unfortunately. The best packaging resonator I have found available is one that is round in canister shape, opposed to the oval shaped Nichira one. Here's what I'm after (pics taken from other CZC members): And here's the best packaging resonator I could find: Here's the car I am after the resonator for. Thanks

Dennis, I prefer not to offer any negative comments in the setting of a public forum. (Unfortunately, my experience has had it's ups and downs, due greatly to suppliers of products.) I only extended an offer to personally share recent experiences with you. However, if you prefer a sanitized summary of my experience I can document that here. Keith

The former owner, General Westberg: https://www.af.mil/About-Us/Biographies/Display/Article/105202/brigadier-general-leslie-j-westberg/

I am always ready to share the details of my recent conversations with Distinctive Industries, Seatz Manufacturing (Bryan), Motorsport Industries/The Z Store (Greg) and Classic Datsun Motorsports (Les). Keith

There is a giant box right next to that box with my new Xenon air dam. Someday...

I recognize that car! 🙂 I actually totally forgot about that thread. Five years later and the second system is STILL in the box awaiting install in my '78. At least now, the car is driveable. I would have installed it by now, but I need to get a resonator and a flex pipe and weld a 3 bolt flange on to mate to my AZC 6 into 1 header.

Here's a rumor about when Nissan will start taking money/commitments... https://www.newnissanz.com/threads/nissan-z-order-books-open-november-15th.406/?fbclid=IwAR0k2V5ggZeZ5ihwHL3M0T13XX11mghp1Fhekem8wsLwgEds6q61eb1vVSQ

I was joking about transmission fluid being good rust protection. My car had the same spray pattern. The rear seal of the transmission leaks a little and the propeller shaft sprays it around. It's just a sign that somebody has been driving it. The rear transmission seal is easy to replace. You can do it with the transmission in the car.

I have vast....I mean VAST experience with trying to recover 240Z seats... PM me with your phone number and I'll call you to share my challenges and successes! Keith

Yes, if you place an order they will NOT charge your credit card until they have stock on hand. That way, you lock in a place in line. I did that in late April and am waiting. They will notify me before charging my card and shipping.

https://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-fluid-line-clamp-set-65116.html I was changing out my fuel filter at my buddies hose and getting fuel all over his garage when he showed me these. Wish I knew about them years ago, so much fuel down my arm. Helps when you’re messing with coolant lines to.

Check with Mike McGinnis at Banzai, he might have one in his NOS stash that he willing to part with.

I did lash the valves before I put the engine back in but I will check again. As Zed Head suggested - here is the current situation All the structural damage has been professionally repaired. Engine ran fine before removal. I did a compression test and it looked good. Engine Work done: new fuel injectors oil pan gasket lashed valves replaced EGR new oil filter rear main seal pilot bushing new master cylinder for clutch and brakes Transmission: clutch fork pivot ball throw out bearing new fly wheel and clutch Suspension: full rebuild of front suspension rebuild of brakes new wheel bearings new hubs

Must be a special "down the street" deal. with the PCP Account 🤪

The plastic plugs are to fill the holes drilled for spraying rust preventative compound. Odd that the person applying the stuff thought it was OK to drill through the ID plate, and the date.

It would probably just drop down onto the stock diff mount crossmember since you still have to bolt that in since it's also part of the forward control arm mounts.

NW Pennsyltucky is more like Cleveland, Pittsburgh, Erie or Buffalo. That would be quite a trek for the Captain. @GoldAirWith living in the land that rust forgot (for the most part), why are you considering a Z from the land where rust never sleeps?

LEDs are high resistance and not very voltage sensitive. If you leave an incandescent bulb in that circuit, you'll have a better idea of whether or not the car is charging.

It's only the diff mount that changed. Nissan created new parts to move the diff back so that it was aligned with the wheel centers. A new mount, mustache bar and propeller shaft. You can tell if you have the early style by eyeballing the half-shafts. If they aren't at 90 degrees with the wheels they're the early style.

Sounds absolutely mechanical, not exhaust. I'd check oil pressure first. Don't rely on the gauge. Either plumb in a mechanical gauge or pull the valve cover and be sure there's plenty of oil being delivered topside. Then, do a valve adjustment. If everything's okay thus far and you still have that knocking, I'd start thing rod bearings.

I am going to agree that this is the issue because it was so hard to unclog, and I could have broken it when shoving wire and stuff through. Removing tank as we speak. I will send it off somewhere tommorow. Fingers crossed this ends the EFI nightmare for good. Never knew this was a problem until now, because the flow was much better before I drained the tank today, but still pulsed every once and a while. The difference is I have 8 gallons in the tank now, and I had a full tank before. Likely masked the problem until now.

Lots of progress this weekend. First off I'm told the best replacement filler neck is from Gates Auto part #24717. This Sunday I put the fuel pick up line into a can of clean gas and put the fuel line from just before the filter into another empty can. Then I turned the ignition to on which started the fuel pump, and pushed all of the old gas out of the line. Then at the back of the car I put the return fuel line in a empty can and started the car. It idled pretty good for a car that hasn't run in 10-20 years. The motor sounded a little ticky for me but I don't know what it's suppose to sound like.

100% polarity doesn't matter for injector connections. Based on my experience and confirmed by the Datsun mechanic who sold me the pins & connectors to repair the corroded connections I had on my car when I did this work 10 years ago. I asked if I needed to mark the wires when I did the work & was told no need. Confirming what others have posted previously. 100% use stock cam with stock FI.

if you really need a bolt ill send you some.....

There's no way I would reuse that bolt. I would chuck up the remains of the bolt in the lathe and drill a hole in the end. Do the same thing to the threaded stump, and then turn a metal dowel pin to fit the holes. Press the dowel pin into place to align the two while you run a small weld bead around where it broke. If your welding skills are good, they say "the weld is stronger than the base metal".

Just fill the hole in the block with JB weld.

And today, the final stage of my birthday present, I was able to put a vise grip on the stub and easily break it free then unthread it by hand. Yahoo! It never goes this smooth.... What do you think? Buy new head bolts or just re-use the old ones?

I chased a resonance problem years ago. I started by replacing all the u-joints. No luck. The half shafts didn't spin fast enough to produce my vibration. I had the drive shaft balance checked and they found it was slightly bent. They re-tubed the drive shaft and the vibration disappeared.

It is common I have found to struggle with the removal of two particular head bolts. Left side, #4 and 5 from the front. Coolant seems to get there and rust them into place. So the recent engine (N42/N42) needed the head off, and sure enough, all were easy to break free, but #4 was a struggle, and #5 broke. Here we go again. Took the head off, and found stage one of the birthday present. The bolt broke a good 3/8” of and inch above the block! Yahoo! Look at the crud around that bolt. The head gasket was mostly eaten through here. Old engine, old coolant.