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About ckurtz2

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  • Member ID: 34976

  • Rank: ReZular

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  • Joined: 12/08/2020

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  • Map Location
    Tempe, AZ
  • Occupation
    Barrett ASU Student

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
  • About my Cars
    I own a 1977 Datsun 280z coupe. It is factory #307 blue with an off-white interior. 88k original miles and I am in the process of restoring it. Picked it up in July of 2020 and the last tags are from 1992. Sat in Redlands, California under a shed. Family sold it after the original owner had passed. Surprisingly, the body and frame have little to no rust (I'm sure I will find some hidden demons). A 280z has been my dream car since I was little, and with prices surging I was lucky to snag a good one for cheap!

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  1. Down in Arizona I have had several transmissions for different vehicles over the years rebuilt by a specialty shop called Hayes Transmission. Funny enough the only manual transmission fluid he swore by was an OEM KIA fluid. UM090-CH036. It is 75w-85. I run it in both my 4runner and 280z, and both transmissions work like butter. I would like to mention that the 4runners transmission was rebuilt and I put in MT90. The shifting was very choppy and drove this for about 6k miles. Finally listened to the tranny mechanic and the KIA fluid turned it to butter. Honestly though, most all GL4 manual transmission fluids should be fine in the proper weight.
  2. Time to confuse everyone again. So all things aside. I think the cam is gonna be able to be dialed in for the stock EFI. I did a little bit of work with Chuck a few weeks back and I think it's going to be doable. I'll explain that when it's all dialed in, in the future. With the tweaks done to the car it no longer runs nearly as rich (still slightly), and it doesn't seem to lean out anymore at high rpm. So I am 100% (bold statement) positive that the issues I am dealing with now causing the car to run rough at low rpm are still in cylinder #1. Let me explain. So, cylinder #1 absolutely does not fire at idle. I bought a new spark plug(s) for it and let it run for about a minute cold. Pulled #1 plug and looked at it. Still looked completely new and noticed just a small amount of oily like film on it (can't confirm if it was coolant, oil, or gas. I don't have a great nose). Ok, so I installed the plug again and let it idle till warm. Pulled plug again and barely noticed a difference in the plug. Ok so I got in the drivers seat and in neutral held the car at 2000rpm and pretty much just revved the car between 2000-3000rpm. when accelerating I noticed that a thin cloud of white/grey smoke came out as well as smoke that was dark gray/black. I could distinctly see two different smoke colors. In addition, every once and a while it would pop out the exhaust. Ok, cool, confusing. What's new.. So I disconnected the injector connector to cylinder #1 and did the same test. No more popping, no more black smoke, and only a small small amount of that white smoke. So after alternating this test a few times I noticed that it would only pop and display black smoke after idling for a few minutes followed by revving with cylinder #1 connected. In addition, the white smoke was much stronger when cylinder one was connected. I never noticed the plug being covered in fuel, nor did I notice it becoming super black and carbon fouled. Looked rich, but not by much. Now, I pulled the #1 spark plug wire while the engine was idling and noticed no difference in rpm. I also pulled the plug wire at about 2700rpm and noticed no real change in rpm, but the exhaust did sound different. So I think it's firing, but not strongly, and only at higher rpms. I also swapped injector connectors again and #1 connector worked on #2. I looked inside #1 cylinder through the spark plug hole and noticed it looked much cleaner inside on the piston top compared to other cylinders which clearly showed signs of combustion. Now cylinder #1 shows 150psi or so on compression. I pulled #1 and #2 injectors and turned over the car. Both show decent spray patterns with what looked to be the same flow. Spark is totally good as without even pulling the plug I can get the wire boot if pressed against the valve cover to zap it. So I have spark, fuel, and compression at idle and no boom. If it is firing at idle it is extremely weak. What can possibly cause this. Oil does not look milky or low, coolant looks green, pretty clear, and not low.
  3. This makes sense. Lol I just saw the external oiler knowing the cam was internally oiled and figured they were both putting in work. I stand corrected🙃
  4. The second part connects at the lower differential mount. I have a photo before I did my suspension resto. It is supposed to have rubber or plastic covering the face of it. Don't ask me its purpose, I have zero clue haha.
  5. @Jeff G 78 Just saw this. Well, thank you! Were u able to see if it was good? That's awesome, I love the sound of Ford V8s. The high revving gt350s make it all the better:)
  6. Yes, my N47 originally had just the spray bar, interesting that it is considered rare for my car. Now I am running an internally oiled cam with the spray bar too. If the ZX cam would work I would love to put it to good use! Just set a price. I will see what this weekend brings about when it's at the shop if I end up throwing in the bag on the cam, or if a solution comes along. That video is badass, the car sounds so good. The track itself looks really fun too.
  7. Yes, so the original cam is an option, but only because its cheaper than going to a new EFI system (I am ruling out Fast EFI cause it doesn't have that much tuneability). The entire reason I upgraded cams is because I messed up my cam oiler and it destroyed my original cam. The comp cam and original cam were around the same price when switching to an internal oiling cam so I chose the comp cam. So it isn't really readily available to swap to the original:( online looks like it would set me back several hundred dollars. Unless you guys know where to get a cheap one I really would rather not. Interesting Jeff. If I could go back in time and go the original cam I probably would now. That Shelby sounds sweet. Anyways, I know the power hunger haha. Long story short I drove a friends a Warrior 302 and stick shift hellcat a lot in highschool. Lots of fun, but almost too fast as to where I would get into "criminal" territory real quick.
  8. @Captain Obvious I think it is gonna have to be some old school fun (not fun) haha. I just need it to run well enough to where it doesn't bobble at idle as much and can actually work at WOT so I can have some fun while not hurting the motor. Depending on how good it works, then I will either hold out on a new EFI stuff for a few years, or next semester. Time will tell I guess. Just having a really hard time wanting to dump even more money into this car when it still has a crabby interior and I haven't even been able to drive on public roads. I've also been considering just swapping back to the original cam, but I'd rather get this one to work.
  9. Yeah, I think my problem is all in the cam now. Here's a little update. Cleaned up tons of grounds today, and replaced several connectors as well. Once warmed up it idles way better than a few days ago, but still not quite right. Shakes and you can hear a miss every once and a while out the exhaust. Took it for a test drive, and it felt the best it ever has. About at quarter throttle it pulls pretty nice, sounds like all 6 are firing, and feels smooth overall. All of the problems I have noticed are at idle or WOT. So I tested WOT a few different ways. I put it at WOT at around 2100 rpm, no stumbling and it would pull harder and harder until about 3100 rpm and then miss to all hell. I then started from around 2000 rpm to about 3600 rpm at a quarter throttle and it didn't seem to miss at all. I then tried WOT after getting it to around 3200 rpm using a quarter throttle, didn't like that.(Note: I don't want to try things higher in rpm, because the cam is still technically breaking in). Ok, cool. Figured this would happen. So I pulled plugs and yep all the ground electrodes are white as day and the outer edges of the plugs all have a little bit of black soot. So my visual diagnosis is rich at idle and waay lean under load and higher rpms. This will be the baseline, hopefully this issue will be able to be worked out with some tweaking. I also want to mention I had the potentiometer on and cranked about 1/4 of the way. Didn't want to toy with the AFM... not yet.
  10. Lol, love to see the discussion, nice to learn something new:) Replaced plugs (gapped to 0.04), cylinder 5 came back to life. Ran waaay better, but it would still surge a little bit and miss. So I think that my whole electrical problem was fixed. Ended up being a loose plug at the dropping resistor, and spark plugs. Go figure, sometimes the most complicated of issues are quite simple. The new plugs are starting to already carbon foul again. So my plan is to replace the connections at the WT sensor. The vacuum sits at around 15.5hg so I think having it vacuum tested will be a very smart thing to do. And if it doesn't climb to something better, than another solution will have to be figured out. I think the main reason those plugs are fouling is due to the fuel pressure being too high (low vacuum means the fuel pressure climbs significantly:(. Maybe an interesting solution will be a fuel rail with a different fuel pressure regulator. Who knows at this point, time will tell.
  11. Lets settle this. The Number is E12-12A. 7112
  12. @S30Driver So the transistor ignition unit is what was upgraded and the ballast resistor has nothing to do with it? If that's the cause I will definitely change the plug gap then.
  13. Interesting, I feel like Datsun jipped me on the ignition system then haha. The vin plate says 01/1977 so it is an early 77. Also has the weird sloped rear deck. Here is the ballast resistor. Well I got the BPR6ES so it's pre-gapped to .035. I can almost guarantee that I left that gap on the old plugs which were also the same type. What gap would you recommend then if I am running the weaker type system? Just do like 0.04?
  14. Yes, I have a ballast resistor. I tested it last year, and it looks like it is still in good condition.
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