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ckurtz2

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About ckurtz2

  • Rank
    Active Member

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  • Map Location
    Phoenix, AZ
  • Occupation
    Barrett ASU Student

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    280z
  • About my Cars
    I own a 1977 Datsun 280z coupe. It is factory #307 blue with an off-white interior. 88k original miles and I am in the process of restoring it. Picked it up in July of 2020 and the last tags are from 1992. Sat in Redlands, California under a shed. Family sold it after the original owner had passed. Surprisingly, the body and frame have little to know rust (I'm sure I will find some hidden demons). A 280z has been my dream car since I was little, and with prices surging I was lucky to snag a good one for cheap!

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  1. Time Left: 13 days and 12 hours

    • WANTED
    • USED

    Hey guys, If you have a good condition uncracked dash let me know! I am looking to replace my destroyed dash on my 1977 280z.

    NO VALUE SPECIFIED

  2. View Advert 280z Uncracked Dash Hey guys, If you have a good condition uncracked dash let me know! I am looking to replace my destroyed dash on my 1977 280z. Advertiser ckurtz2 Date 09/03/2021 Price Category Parts Wanted Year 1977 Model 280z
  3. This intrigued me, as an issue I wasn't aware of, so I did some digging and came across this link. https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/plugs/index.html Inside the ink I found this: Historical Z Plugs so, I believe I am running the wrong plugs. Which is weird, because AutoZone recommended the NGK-BPR5EGP which is a hotter plug. Do you think it would be worth it to switch to the B6ES-11? I wonder if for some odd reason these plugs make the car unhappy. @dutchzcarguy thank you for the great catch. @AK260 Interesting, I will take a look at those resistance tests
  4. Haha, me two. First time I started it, I mixed it up and it wouldn't start. Went for the starting fluid😞 Sounded like a 12 gauge it backfired so bad🙂 Kinda cool, kinda terrifying. Equally stupid Anyways. For ignition I am running a Petronix Flamethrower 2 0.6ohm coil. I am running a stock distributor, but I just had it sent off to Advanced Distributors in Minnesota to be rebuilt and recurved. It looked pretty crummy inside, and I don't trust remanned units due to reports of inconsistencies. I am still using the factory ICM, ballast resistor, etc. I did clean the thermo sensor befor
  5. Hey Guys, I battled a number fuel injection issues in a previous forum. With that system running right, I now have narrowed down the stumbling idle to something ignition related. The car takes a few seconds to start up, but when it roars to life it holds an idle. However, you can hear a clear miss, and the motor will buck around. I also want to note that I can free rev the car and it seems to smooth out at higher RPM. My first question is about the spark plug wires that I came across. These are/were brand new NGK wires from Zcardepot I installed last winter. The car has proba
  6. Hey guys long time no see, I was absorbed in a full suspension rebuild, so this thread got put on the backburner. Since I have last posted, I had zcarsource replace my pickup tube inside my gas tank. They did a great job, and it fixed the fuel flow/air bubbles problem. Now I can free rev the car easily up to 7k rpm and the car runs much better. However, I still have a problem with how smooth the motor runs. At idle it still bucks and jerks like it has a misfire and with the exhaust off the misfire is clearly audible. I can notice the engine bucking till about 3000 rpm, to
  7. View Advert 280z Rear Strut Insulator Spacers The Strut Spacers are located between the Strut Mount Insulator and the Spring Seat in the rear of the car and are the counterpart to the front Upper Strut Bearings on 70-78 models I don't care if they are poly or rubber. I am in SOS mode and need to get these asap. Trying to move for college, but need to finish the rear suspension so I can tow the car. This part is holding me up. It is backordered everywhere I called. So if anyone has a spare set, please save me! Advertiser
  8. Time Left: 1 month and 8 days

    • WANTED
    • NEW

    The Strut Spacers are located between the Strut Mount Insulator and the Spring Seat in the rear of the car and are the counterpart to the front Upper Strut Bearings on 70-78 models I don't care if they are poly or rubber. I am in SOS mode and need to get these asap. Trying to move for college, but need to finish the rear suspension so I can tow the car. This part is holding me up. It is backordered everywhere I called. So if anyone has a spare set, please save me!

    NO VALUE SPECIFIED

  9. I am going to agree that this is the issue because it was so hard to unclog, and I could have broken it when shoving wire and stuff through. Removing tank as we speak. I will send it off somewhere tommorow. Fingers crossed this ends the EFI nightmare for good. Never knew this was a problem until now, because the flow was much better before I drained the tank today, but still pulsed every once and a while. The difference is I have 8 gallons in the tank now, and I had a full tank before. Likely masked the problem until now.
  10. Ok I am going to keep stock cam. Didn't do injectors after all, because I think I found the real problem.... So the gas was old, sitting since December, so I swapped it for new gas and also replaced the filter I had running in the back. Put about 8 gallons in. The previous filter sure did do it's job. The first thing I ever did to the car was clean the tank with nuts, bolts, muriatic acid, and vinegar to shake all the rust out. I also cleaned out the pickup and return tubes with solvents which were clogged at the time. I then put a little filter between the fuel pump and the tank to
  11. I think I am with you on this one. In the name of science though, my friend and I are going to rewire the injectors anyways tommorow morning. If something changes then miracles are possible. If not, then you can use my forum post as proof to debunk anyone in the future who thinks that their injector wiring is wrong.
  12. So you think that it is possible if the wires are connected backwards it can lead to issues? All six of mine are wired the exact reverse of this by accident. I tested by seeing which side of the connector was getting voltage when on the car, and the opposite side had voltage as apposed to this thread. No idea how I messed this up, as I thought I was careful. https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/injectors/connectors/index.html Regarding the cam, I will stick to stock, but I think I am going to use the internally oiled one. @Reptoid Overlords, ok interesting. maybe the header i
  13. Another update after a hard day's work. The Datsun has won again. Did a valve adjustment, some of the specs were crazy off. Mostly tight, but definitely not at what I set it to before. Redid the oiler gaskets with new proper ones. Realized that I didn't even have a gasket in the middle:( Anyways, fired it up, cold it was quieter, but once warm it was louder than hell from the valvetrain. I am thinking it's time for a new cam, internally oiled, and probably a hotter cam as well. So that's loss number 1 Number 2 I slapped on the potentiometer trick. Man that thing works like a charm to lean
  14. Wow, thanks for all the replies! Do you think it is ok to keep running that cam for now? So I think the issue with it's oiling efficiency is that I half assed the gaskets. I used a cork type gasket instead of rubber, because it is what I had at the time. You can see the cork is sopping wet, because it is obsorbing the oil and I am sure letting some leak out. I am going to find a rubber sheet somewhere and make new ones, hopefully that will help. None of the galleries were clogged. New valve adjustment coming up as well. The car is a 1/77 280z. So I am not sure when they switched to an in
  15. @zclocks Mine has a very minute wobble. Just another problem to add to the mix. Ok, so I took a ton of photos and a video. I think my wipe pattern is ok-ish, but I may not understand the concept completely. Enlighten me. Also, the cam has score marks on it in certain places, does this mean I am screwed and need a new cam. I think I narrowed it down that my spray bar just isn't providing enough oil, however the engine wasn't turning fast either. Some holes in the bar had virtually no oil coming out, while some had decent spray for such low rpm. In addition, sometimes the oil looked
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