texasz
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Everything posted by texasz
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Slide the seat all the way forward, recline the set forward as well...this will give you your best access. It is challenging no doubt. Slide your fingers under and feel around to get the nut started, you will be doing this blind as there's no way to be able to see what you are doing under there unfortunately. Once you get it finger tight use a combination wrench to tightening it down. This is about the best description I can think of right now. Hope this helps.
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Yep, looks like it from your picture. Check out KlassicFab Vintage JDM, I've been hearing very good things about their parts. If you do not see what you want on their website just contact them since their website is not current with all their parts (they are constantly rolling out new items).
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Yay or Nay on bracing to remove front rails on 240z?
texasz replied to DC871F's topic in Body & Paint
I'll have to defer to someone like @26th-Z with experience, my knowledge in this area is based upon what I have learned/read not what I've done. -
Yay or Nay on bracing to remove front rails on 240z?
texasz replied to DC871F's topic in Body & Paint
In short yes, brace/support/align! Like 26th-Z said, and he's got some experience with metal work on these cars. 😉 -
I was just going to ask what that area looked like when you took the car apart. In my experience I've not seen that area damaged either so I'm not sure there is a need to re-engineer it.
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For what it's worth I have HLS30-08215, build date 8/70 and it has an E31 block and an E31 head with the 4-screw carbs and the flapper style air cleaner (if anyone reading cases about that info). I also have HLS30-06293, build date 6/70 and it too has an E31 block and curiously enough it has an E88 head with the 4-screw carbs and the non-flap air cleaner. I'd have to look at what HLS30-018482, build date 1/71, has since I have no pix of that engine and it's stored elsewhere. As you can see just from what I personally have there's a bit of a mixed bag on the '70s.
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😞 I've been seeing more and more sent overseas lately. There was one from right here in my backyard that was in an accident and ended up in Europe by way of the insurance auction. The good news is that it is being repaired!
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So I did a little more digging based upon Carl's info (it made me curious), here's what I found: Florida auction: http://classiccardb.com/datsun/516190-datsun-240z-1970-1972-project-cars-with-lots-of-extra-parts.html A 2015 legal notice of lien in a Lee County publication: https://legals.businessobserverfl.com/legal-notice-uploads/2015-03-06-Lee.pdf The Florida auction site lists a phone number, it may be worth a phone call to see if you can chase it down.
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@DatsunZGuy, I saw that same ad for the headlights and just laughed. I suppose for those looking for a pure stock car or chasing that six figure auction price it is worth it, for the rest of us I think it's a waste of money.
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Unfortunately there's not going to be a clear cut-over date/month. If you browse through the registries you will see that build dates, VIN, and engine serial numbers do not all align sequentially. That's the bad news. The good news is that someone will be able to help with a rough transition timeframe (I do not have that information).
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How many miles have you put on since replacing? Have you gone back and double checked everything is installed and adjusted properly?
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Apex has been good, they do want me to tell them the length though.
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@yarb, Oh I know the item...there is nothing about the length unfortunately. If they are unwilling/unable to provide pre-sales support to ensure customers get the right stuff I'll take some of that business elsewhere and save some money in the process (i.e. these lines will be bought elsewhere). There are still some items I'll be buying from them, I just won't be spending as much with them as I initially planned on. 😞 So really my questions remain....
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From memory they did not, though it's been several years since I researched this. As I recall I replaced mine with Spicer u-joints that do have a grease fitting.
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@Yarb, unfortunately ZCarDepot has been completely non-responsive for the past couple weeks...I had a few questions before placing an order and it's been radio silence. 😞 They seem to be fine at getting orders out the door once placed (I've ordered from them a few times since March), the issue seems to be in their lack of communication on pre-sales questions. I've even found their phone number and nobody answers and no option to leave a message.
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For those of you who have replaced your 240Z soft/flexible brake lines this question is for you! I'm replacing with braided stainless lines and was asked for the length. On the rear this is easy enough as I can just measure the original ones, unless someone has a reason to get a different length. On the front however it seems this is a little different...I've replaced the stock calipers with the Toyota 4-piston ones and from my understanding the new brake line should run from the connection point on the body directly to the new caliper, soooooo how long should this be? Is there any real benefit to having swivel ends on the lines and if so where (i.e. front and rear, both ends, just the body side, just the brake side, etc, etc)? FWIW I'm ordering Apex lines.
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Welcome! I had a quick look in a couple of the registries and did not see that VIN listed unfortunately so it's hard to know what may have come of it.
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That's great information S30Driver. This leads to the other part...which booster should I be looking at installing? IF the 8.5" is the way to go then my next question...does anyone have one they recommend? How about anyone with experience with this one? https://jdm-car-parts.com/products/datsun-240z-1969-1972-8-5-inch-brake-booster-upgrade-kit?variant=2376693317641
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From everything I've researched if I keep the rear drum brakes stock and upgrade the front to the Toyota 4-piston calipers then I should also upgrade the master cylinder to the 15/16 one from a 280ZX. Question #1, is this accurate? When upgrading the master cylinder to the 15/16 one it seems that this is a direct bolt in upgrade. One thing I have found is talk about the master vac (booster) also being something that some people upgrade. Issue with this is that as I understand it the 280ZX (10") will not fit due to the clutch master cylinder (at least without some modification/fab work). I have also learned that there are TWO different sizes that came in the Z, the 7" which is what is in my car and the 8.5" in the later Z cars. This all brings me to my next question...I have the 7" booster and plan on doing the 15/16 master cylinder upgrade, will be 7" booster be ok? What are the pros/cons of keeping the 7" booster?
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Time Left: 7 days and 6 hours
- WANTED
- USED
WTB: Tokico 15/16 master cylinder from a 280ZX.$1.00
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View Advert Tokico 15/16 Master Cylinder WTB: Tokico 15/16 master cylinder from a 280ZX. Advertiser texasz Date 10/08/2020 Price $1.00 Category Parts Wanted Year 19801983 Model 280ZX
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Agree, body color. I feel like black makes the engine bay too dark and thus more difficult to see things (including leaks some times), I've always thought body color looked more finished. 🙂
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@siteunseen, that's some great info you linked to...especially the pictures and first hand experience of swapping the hard lines from one side to the other.
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Fair questions and excellent points @Zed Head. To clarify, I'm alright with these not being "original" though I do not want it to be janky and forced to work because I'm being cheap (I hope that makes sense). Nor would I want it to be a safety issue because it is not the right (functionally) part. One thing that may impact some of the discussion on the lines is that I've been planning on installing some braided steel hoses. I'm not sure if that replaces the hard lines you are talking about or not. Does anyone know this? The two parts you listed have nearly the exact same part number as what jfa.series1 listed...W96879 vs WC96879 and W96878 vs WC96879.
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Thank you @jfa.series1, have you used these on your 240Z?