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Please consider sticking a folded piece of cardboard in the spinng fan. You need those fingers to type helpful replies on here.

So I finally got my engine/drivetrain how I want it, now it's time to make a mockery of auto body work. 1st time prepping/painting a car. I got some booth time and a bit of mentoring for some primer. It's a Bondo machine that's for sure. I'm not trying to win any beauty pageants, just have some fun. I'll be happy if it's a 10 footer. Not much can be worse than it was before.

I got the whole car seam sealed and yesterday put 2 coats of high build primer on everything, so far all the panels are looking pretty smooth but I'll find out this morning when I get the guide coat on it. One good thing about the Covid situation is I'm getting a lot of work on the car done.

Thanks guys. Slow progress but any progress right now is good. Cody wants to try to take it to Zcon in Colorado. He'll be 21 that week

So let me tell you a little story... Some time last summer, maybe June, we had a professional uphostery shop do Cody's headliner. They did a wizz poor job! Headliner made from scratch. Fabric was too thick, seams weren't great, sloppy install. It took forever for them to do it. Then we took it back to have them work on some problem areas. A few weeks later the glue was all letting loose. Panels all starting come loose around the window frames. We just cut our loses... So I ordered a headliner off Ebay. It came in. We strung it up but it was too small. So I sent it back. I bought one from Goliners on ebay. Jim is good to deal with but again it was too small. He told me these were made off of the factory template. Instead of sending it back again, I found a source for the same fabric and Shelley reworked it for me. Now the problem with this is, we don't have a commercial sewing machine. That makes it hard to feed through the machine and prevent slippage and such. Overall though it came out good. The problem we ran into was two fold. The wagon has a piece of metal at the rear of the roof and I'm pretty sure the headliner is supposed to wrap up and over this piece of metal. When I did that with the Ebay headliners, I would lose about 5/8". Then each panel of the headliner should be 11"s but the ones I purchased had random panel sizes 10 7/8, 10 5/8, 10 1/2. All these errors compound and when you get to the front of the car, you're an 1 1/2 too short. So we remade the panels we had too and Cody and I started the install maybe 3 weeks ago. We would have to do it in short sections and it takes a while for the glue to tack up, especially when it's cold outside. I used the Weldwood contact cement. The yellow 272 stuff I believe. I will run you out if your work space isn't ventilated, but it holds really good. We started with the A & B pillars. I wrapped them over a little foam. Then when the headliner crosses them we folded a hem. We started at the back with the headliner at the metal flange glued it and stretch it to the side to tension it. Then we put all the meatl bows in and got them vertical. Lots of metal clips along the edges. We worked out way up the sides of the car. The front was also clipped and stretched. I had problems when I got to the front. I had wrinkles I couldn't get out. So I had to pull the drivers side above the front door loose and rework it to pull the excess out. To be my first headliner with bows, I think we did ok... Now that the headliners in we have started working on glass, to make it water tight. Then I can kick his car back out of my shop and move "Lily" back in We had a Datsun guy tell us one time, if we bought a headliner off Ebay we would mess with it for days, mess it up and then buy another one and take it to a professional... Pfffftt!! Nope, you can do it if you take your time and don't get in a rush and it might even be better than the professionals!!!

You say she's not going to be entering any beauty pageants so white is a good colour for that, it is very forgiving.

I think the ZX’s look great in white. Look forward to seeing it done. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It's a spoiler I bought used from http://www.new-datsun-parts.com/datsun-510-parts.html With the valance off the car the spoiler doesn't seem to fit very well but the valance does get bent into a more curved shape when mounted so I'm hoping it fits together properly when mounted. I thought perhaps it was for another car but it does look the same as pics I have found on Google and the vendor says it is correct for a 510, besides, I don't think I have ever fit a spoiler that actually just bolted up easily.

@AK260 @Racer X this has been a topic in computing for a while see https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Master/slave_(technology) We stopped using ‘master’ to denote our ‘development’ software. We use ‘develop’ now to indicate that it’s the primary branch. We also stopped using blacklist/whitelist. Instead we use inclusion-list, exclusion-list. Which is more straightforward and explicit in the name. I personally use primary/secondary to denote the hierarchy of coupled devices. ah yes clutches, I have a thread here for part references for the setup that AK is talking about, I’m still buttoning up the car, so I don’t know how it feels.

I agree with the other guys, new clutch disc and cover, throw out bearing and pilot shaft bushing, resurface the flywheel. Also, the machine shop that balances the rotating assembly should also include the flywheel and clutch cover, and the vibration damper/crank pulley when balancing everything, and mark the flywheel/clutch cover and crank hub so it can all be reassembled in the orientation it was in when balanced.

To me it will always be master and slave. But for the overly sensitive types, perhaps primary and secondary, or actuator and actuatee, or . . . . . . . . . . . nah, screw it. The thing that forces the fluid is the master, the thing that responds to the fluid pressure the slave.

Its been sometime since I posted. Finally getting back to work on the car. The engine and transmission is in!! Goal is to drive this summer! I realized I am missing a prop shaft bolt. Can I use a regular Hex bolt or does it have to have the square side like this one?

It does look great, I have a headliner from Goliners for the 510 coupe hanging on my wall trying to get the wrinkles out, I haven't actually measured it yet so maybe I should.

Having this tooth log complete was euphoric after 2 weeks of troubleshooting and trying different wiring, I even extended the shielding (wire + aluminum envelop) to reach the CAS connector as I thought I had noise hiding some teeth. So to anyone using aftermarket Crank Angle Sensor (onesixindustries in particular), always open it and check the VR sensor vs. wheel gap, even in a brand new part that is supposed to be quality controlled, and also blow some air to remove any metal dust... Before: After: Also, I understood how the IAC valve is linked to the inlet port on the Jenveys ITBs. They got one single entry port from the top of Throttle Body, right next to the injector port, but two outlet inside of TB, one going diagonal and on the air side in front of the throttle, the second one is vertical on the engine side / back of throttle, where we have the vacuum. Jenvey provides the IAC valve kit with 6x 2 inserts types, shorts and longs. The short ones could be be used for second fuel input maybe (Nos ?! Ethanol ?!) as it will just go above the diagonal hole (red), but the long one will go deeper and obstruct the diagonal hole, only communicating with the vertical hole (green, next to injector hole), on the correct side of the throttle. SOme of you might have found this ages ago, but I was happy to get my IAC stepper to work so I can refine my idle today and hopefully put the wheels on once brakes and clutch are bled.

To add my two cents: I ABSOLUTELY LOVE my Fidanza flywheel and exedy clutch! I think they do a great package on eBay but just check you are getting the right one for your car ... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EXEDY-CLUTCH-KIT-06029-w-FIDANZA-FLYWHEEL-for-70-75-DATSUN-240Z-260Z-2-4L-2-6L-/324528069103?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286 And I have to echo the sentiments - replace all the bits that wear out and you’ve done it once!! Having said that, I didn’t replace my slave cylinder as I preferred the original part to the new one I had bought! Somehow it felt better built. We’re no longer allowed to say “salve” cyl are we? What is the new correct phrase?

Also I was looking at the stainless trim for the windshield and some of it is damaged, the bottom piece especially. Does anyone have some they would like to part with? @zKars @Terrapin Z

Super good news brother!!

I sometimes think the meticulous is my actual hobby:)

My fronts are 205/55R16. So yours would be an inch less in overall diameter. Mine did settle some after a couple drives.

I have the original clamps but did not want to possibly scratch the paint while installing! The steering wheel cover was a factory authorized option in 70 and was installed by the dealer.

I understand the dilemma guys so I set about to solve the problem

Lady Macbeth lets her hair down.

Too bad they didn't solve it by installing a cross-flow head. SUs on one side, exhaust on the other.

I can't imagine not replacing all the clutch parts, including the slave cyl. and the pilot shaft bushing while you are in there. I always buy a "clutch kit" so that it all works together as it should. Mixing parts from different models/years can get you in trouble. Lot's of info here about what to avoid.

My experience was quite the opposite when it came to the Flat Tops While some like to debate the technical merits of the Flat Tops - one thing is not debatable. From the introduction of the 1973 240Z’s with the Flat Top Carb’s needed to met the EPA Exhaust Emissions Standards - Dealers were plagued with Customer Complaints accompanied by Datsun 240Z’s being returned to the Dealerships on a Tow Hook. Something never before experienced and most certainly never expected. The 240Z and indeed DATSUN had established a well deserved reputation for Reliability second to none. I was there at one Dealership and it was NOT PLEASANT for anyone, most certainly not the New Owners, nor the Service Managers that had to tell the Customers their car might be in the Service Bay for several days. Of course the Customer Complaints came back on the Sales Staff as well. Several Customers demanded that we refund their money and take the car back. The Flat Tops were so good - that Nissan Motors spent thousands of hours of Technical Service & Engineering time trying to identify and solve the problems with the Flat Tops both here in the USA and in Japan. We had Nissan Personnel in our Service Dept., working with our mechanics, several days per week, for several months. This was happening at 2 or 3 other Datsun Dealerships that I was aware of on the West Coast as well. Indeed we saw an ongoing series of modifications attempted while looking for an actual solution to the problems. A lot of Trial and Error went on for months. The problems according to Nissan were Vapor Lock in the fuel lines and Percolation of fuel in the float bowls (now hanging directly over the larger and hotter exhaust manifold). The attempted solutions were many and varied for months and months. The result were Z’s dying on the street or highway and/or refusing to restart when hot. It was not unusual for a Customer’s Z to be returned to the dealership 3, 4 or 5 times before the Customer gave up. (then went to Private Repair Shop and had 70/72 SU’s put on - problem solved). By the end of the 1973 Model Year, Nissan had greatly reduced the occurrences of the “problems” - but far too many Customers in several area’s of the Country were still being effected and/or were disappointed. Nissan’s real solution to the wonderful Flat Tops was to replace them with Fuel Injection as soon as possible. For most customers, and secondary owners - the Z’s were out of Warranty after 12 months/12,000 miles - so any/all labor spent attempting to “correct” of “fix” them held the potential of significant Labor Costs for subsequent owners - their least expensive solution was to replace them with the 70-72 SU’s. By the time the 74 260Z’s came out - Nissan had made several changes to the Flat Tops and they did perform far more reliably - however outside of the Datsun Dealers, the privately run shops did not have the benefit of Nissan’s Extensive Technical Training offered to the Dealer Service personal, nor did they have all the Technical Service Bulletins the Dealerships had. So private shops just refused to spend the time with the Flat Tops - because their Customers weren’t willing to spend the money on the labor hours needed to overcome the learning curve. The “learning curve” consisted mostly of trying to get the technical information from the Dealer Service Departments (who really weren’t in the business of training their own competition). This was not a situation where untrained Service Tech’s did not know how to deal with a new Carb. - it was a situation where the new carb. properly tuned to meet the EPA Spec.’s at the time - would not perform on the car. A year or year and half later, with the new Carbs redesigned / modified yes, the Nissan and Dealer Trained mechanics could set them up and yes they would run (most of the time). Mr. Umera tells the story in his Book: Section: Post Sales Responses - Vapor Lock -Quote:- Executive Director Ryoichi Nakagawa, the chief of the engine departments, gave us a pep talk, saying, “In a car, the worst case that can happen with this defect is the engine stalling, but if this happens on a plane, it crashes.” Although the engine design departments also tackled countermeasures, satisfactory results were not obtained, and the manager Harada of the Third Design Department asked us to cooperate in coming up with countermeasures for the vehicle itself. As a temporary measure, a heat shield plate was placed between the exhaust system and the carburetor, glass fiber was wrapped around the fuel system pipe, and louvers were cut in the engine hood to vent heat. But this was not enough. Then, as the last resort, a powerful sirocco fan, which began to turn when the temperature in the engine room rose above a given temperature, was installed in the engine room to pump out the heat. This almost solved the problem, but it was never perfect, because the fan would turn for a while or sometimes started turning suddenly even after the engine was turned off, surprising drivers. Assistant Department Manager Shidei, who was the chief engineer at this time, visited America to persuade Nissan Motor Corporation U.S.A., to deal with the problem using this tentative measure for a while until a proper countermeasure could be taken. I can’t imagine that would have been an easy task for him. One year later, we solved the problem properly by abolishing the carburetor and adopting the L28 engine with electronic fuel injection. -End Quote- FWIW, Carl B.

Hey guys, I was thinking about drawing up some Datsun Specific instructions for these. Is that something anyone would be interested in? I started modeling some reference 3D files for my own sake. Can anyone confirm this is the stack up for the fronts?

Looking at the pics it looks like the clutch disc lining is worn down to the tops of the rivets. I see what I think is a few shiny rivets. If it's down to polishing the rivets, it's time to replace it along with the release bearing and pilot bushing. And, "as long as you're in there" having the flywheel resurfaced or even lightened.

Go ahead and replace it I say. The Exedy is a great choice. I have one in both my Zs. https://www.amazon.com/EXEDY-06009-OEM-Replacement-Clutch/dp/B001B5D7TE

I Disassembled headlight switch,turn signal switch and hazard switch to give them a nice cleaning and a little lube. Removed the wire connectors and replaced them. When I replaced connectors I moved the spade connectors for like the flasher and moved it into the new connector. I feel this makes things a little cleaner. I also removed all brake light wires from switches. installed new headlight connectors and sealed them with 3 to 1 shrink warp. I scored with a new left headlamp assy. I also order flasher connectors from Vintage connections. I think this makes it nice.If you do this make sure you have the power on the correct side in case you go to led flashers.

Coming along nicely. I got my injectors. They fit so nicely. Now working on angles and what I will do with the fuel rail.