BAS_DXB

Fixed ✌️

Another win yesterday 🙏 Passed the test and registration as a classic, first time the car got license plates since it arrived in Dubai on 17th of September 2020. The Road and Transport Authority is literally 1km away from the workshop, but risking 6 months confiscation of the car to drive without registration was not worth saving 20$ for the recovery truck... The way back was the first drive, EVER, and was FANTASTIC ! Now I can focus on the mapping and test driving, still waiting a bit for the paint to fully cure before the polishing (that's why the Z side emblems are not on the car

This is a picture sent to me by one of the PO (1998-2006), taken in Nebraska between 1999 and 2000, after the first repaint from Pacific Blue to this pitch dark green, this is his nephew graduation picture.

@wheee! always got great findings, and I ordered the same Tachy converter from Gene, UAE was not in his destination list for shipping but he agreed to give it a shot, so let's cross fingers so it doesn't get confiscated as it apparently happened in the past. I am also ordering the mechanical to Electrical VSS converter (metric) from Protuners, as I already converted my speedo dial to kmh + electric pump for 60psi as my FPR is set at 3.0bar and my fuel pump seems to be a little weak (needle bouncing 42-50 psi on the gauge). Already received my wire loom and expecting the fuel lines to

My FPR is at 3 bar, straight from Jenvey to match the injectors and the ITBs, Also noticed that my fuel pressure gauge needle is shaking a lot between 42-50psi, seems like am good for a new fuel pump soon 😂 I got a pretty decent idle today (850-900rpm), and reving sounds healthy. The idle AFR is around 15-15.2 and lowering (so richer) with higher rev, as I did not work on my AFR table yet. Had the wiring double checked for lights/signals/gauges and turned out my "Brand New" alternator from ZcarDepot is fu**, the internal regulator is defective so it doesn't charge my battery... Nice

Thank you for the advice 🙏 Scenario 1 running less spark advance and sounds better as well. I'll dig in the AFR today: - reducing a little fuel and see how is behave and/or - adding a little air with the throttle setting at idle

Question for idle refining following the MS3 manual: Both case I run 2 squirt alternating, primary fuel and ignition load based on ITB (not alpha N or speed density), semi-sequential, and wasted COP. Case 1: #1 tooth angle (BTDC) is set a 330* Fixed timing advance is set at 15* (same as cranking advance) Required fuel set at 6.4ms (refined the calculation with 2753cc instead of 2800cc) with my big A$$ 480cc injectors and the ITB throttles are slightly open (IAC valve taking care of the rest). Engine runs fine and stable, BUT at high rpm for idle (1200-1250) and I

Having this tooth log complete was euphoric after 2 weeks of troubleshooting and trying different wiring, I even extended the shielding (wire + aluminum envelop) to reach the CAS connector as I thought I had noise hiding some teeth. So to anyone using aftermarket Crank Angle Sensor (onesixindustries in particular), always open it and check the VR sensor vs. wheel gap, even in a brand new part that is supposed to be quality controlled, and also blow some air to remove any metal dust... Before: After: Also, I understood how the IAC valve is linked to the inlet por

Great day today, the gap between the toothed wheel and the magnet in the CAS was the issue ! Got to love VR sensors. I adjusted it to .5mm and I now got all my teeth on the tooth log (as well as the missing one), and a perfect RPM sync. 😁 Following this great moment, I ran again the coils and injectors tests, check the other sensors and managed to get the engine started. Now working on the idle and timing for fixed advance in order to be lean and match the required fuel calculated by the software. I am at 7ms now (previously calculated at 6.5 ms by tunerstudio, based on engine displa

Yes it is around these lines.

I use pin D for CKP+ indeed, and so far pin A for CKP-, but might try your setup with sensor ground from MS3 instead of A. You always had all the 23 teeth and the missing one on your tooth log ?

I made the TDC with the valve cover off, to ensure both valves are closed and cams up on cylinder 1, so should not be on the exhaust stroke correct ? I'll still try with 273+360 also tomorrow. Thank you.

You mean the V1 CAS ? I am not certain, as the V1 seems to have 24 teeth and no missing tooth and the V2 has 24-1. https://drive.google.com/file/d/18emLJTYFfAXeZbeBEE8t25-17feUDXnL/view for V1 https://drive.google.com/file/d/1NEjB-zbjPaCB11_pICNsNU-8pCn6UEe8/view for V2 (This sensor is the same as commonly found on Toyota engines however with a modified trigger wheel. A tooth has been machined off.)

After further investigation, and also trying timing gun to determine BTDC... I still get around 270* Something bugged me from the tooth logs, first of all not 23 teeth and 1 tooth missing, and also a number of teeth that was changing... I checked again my grounding, made sure the CAS wiring was correct and not close to coils/injectors/power wiring, already have my 10k resistor in series with the CAS (between CKP+ and CKP- wires), and still had these odd tooth log, so I opened the CAS (onesixindustries, 400$ piece of scrap ?). To me, it seems like the CAS fa

Conclusion on the onesixindustries CAS wiring with MS3Pro: CKP+ to pin D and CKP- to pin A, with pins B and C left unused. The Honda COPS worked their magic and I completed my coil/spark testing. I now work on the timing/advance and obviously getting some weird thing... When doing the engine work and so one, we removed the oil pump and spindle and of course did not put it back correctly. So after manually cranking to TDC with valves cover popped open to ensure of the correct position, we fixed the spindle position to 11:25 small side on the left. Then with the CAS cover ope