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Neb

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About Neb

  • Rank
    Active Member

Contact

  • Map Location
    Haymarket, VA
  • Occupation
    Aircraft simulation

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    280z
  • About my Cars
    1975 Light Blue metallic

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. My fronts are 205/55R16. So yours would be an inch less in overall diameter. Mine did settle some after a couple drives.
  2. Just wanted to chime in after installing these on my '75 280Z. I definitely researched this thread, and very much appreciate all of the great feedback and information here. Nothing but a good experience for me. I replaced the stock springs paired with KYBs with the full eibach lowering kit (23-4042 on MSA) and koni shocks (2x 23-1033, and 2x 23-1034 on MSA). I also did the MSA sway bars at the same time. Everything bolted up fine. I had the usual issues with the rears when trying to get enough clearance without pulling the spindle bolts. I ended up dropping the rear subframe; pi
  3. I did try unplugging the cold start; no change. But good point clamping the hose. I'll give that a shot tonight. And I'll definitely revisit that TPS; pretty sure I set it where it needed to be when I was reassembling my TB/manifold. But, come to think of it, that may have been before I found that my throttle valve wasn't fully closing due to the little stop screw on the engine side being slightly too far down (found that when the TB Idle screw wasn't killing idle even when all the way screwed in). Definitely rechecking that now.. Thanks! Yeah.. I feel like I owe half of y'all
  4. Injectors are all fresh refurbs from RockAuto; I ordered all 6 at once. 4 came in 'green top', and 2 are kind of a beige color. I figured they were equivalent.. might be a bad assumption though. Picture attached The coolant temp sensor is new, and seemed a little high on the resistance (just checked it again, 1050 ohms @ 110F) but its pretty close to the values in the manual when interpolated. Maybe 5% on the high side. I'll recheck it again when the engine is completely cool. I checked it back when I installed it.. should have written down the values but I came to the same conclusi
  5. I just finished refreshing my intake manifold/injectors/ignition system and I'm attempting to get this thing running right. Having never before actually experienced a properly running Z, I feel like I'm going in circles trying to get it to where it is somewhat healthy. Here is where it sits as of this evening: It'll start after a few cranks, but usually dies a few times, then picks up a high idle (maybe 1500ish). The idle will come down to about 1200 RPM after it warms up (about 2/3 to 1/2 on the temp gauge). The conditions at that point (its fairly steady here): RPM: 1100-1
  6. I thought so too; even finished up bolting on the oil pump. But then I put the distributor cap on there. The rotor was well passed the no. 1 plug position, even with the adjustment screw at full advance in its slot. Yeah, setting the ignition will tell all I suppose. I just hope its better than it started. At least I know the trick to setting that spindle now ?
  7. Alright, I got under there again last night and took another stab (or rather a dozen) at aligning this thing. The procedure mentioned in the book siteunseen posted worked; if I rotated the oil pump CW while I inserted it until flush, and then rotated it so the bolt holes lined back up after it was flush, it would produce the CCW rotation up top. I ended up with 3 'options' (I'm assuming these are based on the gear teeth spacing) and went with the one that pointed the distributor rotor at the #1 plug (which was the most CCW one). I think the vice grip method could work, but I didn't have vic
  8. Thread resurrection! Thanks again for all the help.. but I've run into another issue with this whole timing problem and would really appreciate a sanity check here.. ? I finally got around to removing the oil pump, but ran into a problem when I went to re-install it. I've aligned the spindle and the pump as per the FSM (punch mark above the oil hole), and then reinstalled the assembly, but it still looks wrong. I'm at about 1 o'clock, while the FMS is at about 1130.. what am I missing here?? I was very careful not to turn the spindle during install (actually put it in twice; ended up
  9. sorry to resurrect.. but today I had the exhaust manifold off and the square manifold will indeed cover the round ports no issue!
  10. Success! I swapped out the radiator cap and that seems to of resolved the coolant purge issue. Ran it for a good 10-15 minutes last night and didn't have any coolant leaks. Also did a temp fix on that coolant hose to block the bypass for now. Also also took a quick look at the water temp sensor; still nothing on the gauge. Pretty sure its wired up correctly. Sensor is new. More troubleshooting to follow.. Probably would have gotten more done, except I also changed the oil and had some serious difficulty removing the old oil filter. And while I was at it, I got the oil pressur
  11. Hmmm alrighty. I'll try the old radiator cap and see if it happens again. And I'll block that line; thanks for the input! I hope the 'short circuit' didn't cause it to overheat.. I 3D printed it ? want one? This is what I'm worried about. I need to troubleshoot the temp guage; it either isnt working or it didn't get hot enough to register. I think tomorrow I'll take it out and put it in some hot water while still electrically connected and see what I get. It's a new sensor so I was hoping it would work ? but I'm yet to actually see it register anything
  12. Well I finally got my Z to (almost) ambulatory status. Unfortunately after about 5 minutes of idling and a very brief trip down the driveway and back, coolant started streaming out of the vent tube originating by the radiator cap. And continued for a couple minutes after shutting it off. Kind of a sad end to it's first self-propelled journey, but was curious if anyone had any ideas on why it would be dumping coolant. I don't think I had it running long enough to get anywhere near overheating. Is that where it would purge if I had maybe over-filled it? Or is it possible that it did overh
  13. Sadly no; I asked remembering she was looking. And someone else was asking about something that attaches to the end of the airbox, but he didn't have that one either..
  14. I ran up to Cadiz, KY this weekend and met a guy who is parting out his '76 280z. I grabbed a dash cover from him, but he has a bunch more. He is keeping the body because he is building a V8 road race setup, but he has pretty much gutted it and has a running engine and pretty much everything else for sale. If you're in need of something, his number is 931-206-7052.
  15. I hadn't even noticed how worn down that thing was. Consider me dissuaded! Now I gotta figure out what to do with it..
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