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About Neb

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    Active Member


  • Map Location
    Haymarket, VA
  • Occupation
    Aircraft simulation

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
  • About my Cars
    1975 Light Blue metallic

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  1. I did try unplugging the cold start; no change. But good point clamping the hose. I'll give that a shot tonight. And I'll definitely revisit that TPS; pretty sure I set it where it needed to be when I was reassembling my TB/manifold. But, come to think of it, that may have been before I found that my throttle valve wasn't fully closing due to the little stop screw on the engine side being slightly too far down (found that when the TB Idle screw wasn't killing idle even when all the way screwed in). Definitely rechecking that now.. Thanks! Yeah.. I feel like I owe half of y'all a few beers already from my previous cries for help.. Zed Head for sure ?
  2. Injectors are all fresh refurbs from RockAuto; I ordered all 6 at once. 4 came in 'green top', and 2 are kind of a beige color. I figured they were equivalent.. might be a bad assumption though. Picture attached The coolant temp sensor is new, and seemed a little high on the resistance (just checked it again, 1050 ohms @ 110F) but its pretty close to the values in the manual when interpolated. Maybe 5% on the high side. I'll recheck it again when the engine is completely cool. I checked it back when I installed it.. should have written down the values but I came to the same conclusion then. And PO was definitely in the AFM; it had 2 different types of glue holding the black cover on. I'll try pushing the black weight around a bit tomorrow night and see what happens. Nervous about messing with that thing.. I can move this over to my other thread if you think that'd be more appropriate; didn't mean to go starting a new thread unnecessarily. On the plus side I did figure out the timing issue (with tons of much appreciated help from yourself and others!), so I figured I'd start a new one. Regardless, thanks for the response ?
  3. I just finished refreshing my intake manifold/injectors/ignition system and I'm attempting to get this thing running right. Having never before actually experienced a properly running Z, I feel like I'm going in circles trying to get it to where it is somewhat healthy. Here is where it sits as of this evening: It'll start after a few cranks, but usually dies a few times, then picks up a high idle (maybe 1500ish). The idle will come down to about 1200 RPM after it warms up (about 2/3 to 1/2 on the temp gauge). The conditions at that point (its fairly steady here): RPM: 1100-1200 Timing: ~15 BTDC on the crank pulley (this is where it seems to be happiest) Vacuum: Just over 20 inHG (needles vibrates a bit) AFM Idle screw: 3.5 turns from fully in (I don't adjust this; I just ran it in and backed it out to the same spot to see where it was) TB Idle screw: 4 turns from fully in Fuel pressure: pretty steady at 28psi Revs readily, no hesitation and sounds pretty smooth at high RPM Have not driven it in this condition to assess its performance under load; don't want to get stranded The exhaust smells pretty funky, like it is running super rich. It'll also 'chuff.. chuff chuff' here and there. It seems really sensitive to the TB idle adjust; if I turn it in or out even half a turn it'll die. Same with the timing; a few degrees in either direction (especially decreasing) will kill it. I can't seem to get it to idle at any lower RPM without it dying though. From what I understand, I'm shooting for a lower idle (800-900), but I just can't seem to adjust it to there without having it die. And the funky exhaust has me worried the neighbors are going to complain at some point. Some more relevant information on the engine: its a maxima N47 head on a 280ZX block (courtesy of the PO; not sure why or how this came to be). I know this produces higher compression, but I'm hoping its still close enough to stock to where it will work with the stock FI system. Pistons look dished, camshaft I'm assuming is the one that came with the maxima head (Its internally oiled, doesn't look new). The EFI bible checks for the AFM are passing EXCEPT the pins 7-8 resistance check (which says 'continuity, very small resistance' or something similar but is reading as 145ohms). New NGK plugs, coil, wires, freshly refurbed distributor; lots of recently added blood/sweat/tears. My next step is going to be getting the AFM rebuilt. From there.. not sure. Anyway, sorry for the long post. Any help/opinions would be more than welcome ?
  4. I thought so too; even finished up bolting on the oil pump. But then I put the distributor cap on there. The rotor was well passed the no. 1 plug position, even with the adjustment screw at full advance in its slot. Yeah, setting the ignition will tell all I suppose. I just hope its better than it started. At least I know the trick to setting that spindle now ?
  5. Alright, I got under there again last night and took another stab (or rather a dozen) at aligning this thing. The procedure mentioned in the book siteunseen posted worked; if I rotated the oil pump CW while I inserted it until flush, and then rotated it so the bolt holes lined back up after it was flush, it would produce the CCW rotation up top. I ended up with 3 'options' (I'm assuming these are based on the gear teeth spacing) and went with the one that pointed the distributor rotor at the #1 plug (which was the most CCW one). I think the vice grip method could work, but I didn't have vice grips long enough to hold the top of the spindle. Hopefully this resolves the timing issues. Y'all are awesome; once again appreciate the help! I'll probably post again once I finish rebuilding the intake manifold and get it all back together and see where the timing is at.. this is the final orientation of the rotor: This was the final config: This one looked better, but the distributor still wasn't quite pointing to the no. 1 plug:
  6. Thread resurrection! Thanks again for all the help.. but I've run into another issue with this whole timing problem and would really appreciate a sanity check here.. ? I finally got around to removing the oil pump, but ran into a problem when I went to re-install it. I've aligned the spindle and the pump as per the FSM (punch mark above the oil hole), and then reinstalled the assembly, but it still looks wrong. I'm at about 1 o'clock, while the FMS is at about 1130.. what am I missing here?? I was very careful not to turn the spindle during install (actually put it in twice; ended up the same orientation each time). Cylinder 1 is TDC. Timing mark is right at 0deg. My brain officially hurts.. I'm about to just skip the 'align the oil hole with the punch mark' and orient it so the top of the spindle matches the FSM so I can clear up this timing issue. Would that cause any issues? What could lead to this condition? Improper rebuild of the oil pump by PO? Any feedback would be appreciated ?
  7. sorry to resurrect.. but today I had the exhaust manifold off and the square manifold will indeed cover the round ports no issue!
  8. Success! I swapped out the radiator cap and that seems to of resolved the coolant purge issue. Ran it for a good 10-15 minutes last night and didn't have any coolant leaks. Also did a temp fix on that coolant hose to block the bypass for now. Also also took a quick look at the water temp sensor; still nothing on the gauge. Pretty sure its wired up correctly. Sensor is new. More troubleshooting to follow.. Probably would have gotten more done, except I also changed the oil and had some serious difficulty removing the old oil filter. And while I was at it, I got the oil pressure sensor swapped and functioning. Good to see at least that gauge is doing what its supposed to ? Definitely appreciate the replies!
  9. Hmmm alrighty. I'll try the old radiator cap and see if it happens again. And I'll block that line; thanks for the input! I hope the 'short circuit' didn't cause it to overheat.. I 3D printed it ? want one? This is what I'm worried about. I need to troubleshoot the temp guage; it either isnt working or it didn't get hot enough to register. I think tomorrow I'll take it out and put it in some hot water while still electrically connected and see what I get. It's a new sensor so I was hoping it would work ? but I'm yet to actually see it register anything
  10. Well I finally got my Z to (almost) ambulatory status. Unfortunately after about 5 minutes of idling and a very brief trip down the driveway and back, coolant started streaming out of the vent tube originating by the radiator cap. And continued for a couple minutes after shutting it off. Kind of a sad end to it's first self-propelled journey, but was curious if anyone had any ideas on why it would be dumping coolant. I don't think I had it running long enough to get anywhere near overheating. Is that where it would purge if I had maybe over-filled it? Or is it possible that it did overheat after a couple minutes if idling.. I have also recently replaced the thermostat. And I also took the two coolant lines running through the firewall (I was assuming one was going into the heater core, and one was coming back) and just hooked one output into the other input so the heater core is omitted (picture included; had a leak somewhere above the passenger side floorboard and saving that for later). I also just replaced the radiator cap. Any obvious answers here? I'm worried I screwed up those lines. Or maybe something is funky with the thermostat.. or maybe I'm being paranoid and I just over-filled it. Thoughts? Thanks!
  11. Sadly no; I asked remembering she was looking. And someone else was asking about something that attaches to the end of the airbox, but he didn't have that one either..
  12. I ran up to Cadiz, KY this weekend and met a guy who is parting out his '76 280z. I grabbed a dash cover from him, but he has a bunch more. He is keeping the body because he is building a V8 road race setup, but he has pretty much gutted it and has a running engine and pretty much everything else for sale. If you're in need of something, his number is 931-206-7052.
  13. I hadn't even noticed how worn down that thing was. Consider me dissuaded! Now I gotta figure out what to do with it..
  14. Wow, tons of great info Looks like I've got some reading to do.. I'll have to dig up a 9v and have another go with the CSV. I tried advancing the plugs one position; it is ALMOST to where it'll line back up with the adjustment screw slot, but not quite. Its far closer to stock though. I'll probably just figure out a way to secure it as-is until I get brave and decide to reset that shaft. Speaking of which, I finally picked up a timing light. I went to set the timing but I may be doing something incorrectly. As I understand it, I ground the red wire from the water temp switch (on the harness side), and that advances the timing, and then I set the timing to the 13deg mark on the pulley/block. I did this, but then when I removed the ground, it only shifted the timing about a degree. So instead of it dropping to 7deg like in the FSM, it just went to about 12deg. Am I messing something up here? And as a total aside.. man the exhaust smells. I'm not sure if its just years of it not running, or if its still off somewhere in the fuel/air/spark equation, but its got a funky rich smell that'll stick with ya. I hope its just symptom of a cat not reaching its proper temp or something that'll be resolved by some proper driving/usage
  15. So from that it sounds like the original height is 108mm. I measured 106mm on my head (measured height both sides, 3 places ea). So from what I gather this head has L28 valves, and is 2mm shorter.. but there are no shims on the cam towers so wouldn't that mess up the timing chain?
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