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Ha! Clearly the seller is overly self-impressed with the perceived value of being in a free registry. P.T. Barnum would approve.

Phil Ray is a good guy and genuine enthusiast, his registry is not a scam. Phil is actively trying to get the current whereabouts and condition of as many 240Z's identified as possible. Its just a personal quest of his.

This American icon/hero passed away yesterday at the age of 97. I don't care that he spelled my name wrong.

What about people who aren’t on Faceplant and don’t wish to be on it? I’m not signing up with Faceplant just to get my 14 Z cars on a registry.

8 minutes to go. The ladst two minutes are where stuff happens. Do you think calling yourself "Slimeydime" is a good idea? "Who'd you buy the car from?" "Somebody called Slimey Dime."

For the long runs “frame rails” etc. I used a small section of hangar wire to attach along the hose in order to reach back in to the area being treated. Also comes in handy to make those awkward bends that allow good access to different areas of the car.

Hi Nils, Yes, the part number is for the S30. All I am showing (on a different but related tangent) is the DS11 is clearly marked on the pads (and ties in with the DS11 on the paperwork). I am adding nothing regards any documentation regards MK63 manuals. That's why the post was "just for interest".

Picture #1 should serve as a cautionary message for anyone thinking about buying an old car. A great example of what the 'collision repair industry' does when nobody's watching too closely. Metal butchers. Bondo artists. I've seen similar evidence at a much higher $ level in the form of a 275GTB Ferrari that had a nose job with up to 1.5" of bondo. The car looked immaculate until a new buyer ordered a 'refresh' and the paint came off.

You have the quarter. I would use it. How is your welding? I dont know that I would do it exactly like the factory. I would like to leave the inner structure alone at yhe roof and along the side of the hatch. If the dogleg was good on the donor, I might remove whats there and put all new donor metal You will probably need to work on the wheel wells and maybe even the metal below the antenna. It took a pretty good shot. You could always get the old quarter off and have someone else mount the new one. Weld slow and lots of breaks

Phil's a great guy, despite being an Aub. His registry is legit and well curated. I think he's in it for the info, not just the likes, if that makes any difference. Facebook is just a good way to cast a wide net. If anyone doesn't want to join FB but wants to join the registry, I'll be glad to pass the info on to him for inclusion. I believe there are many cars registered there owned by non-facebookers.

@siteunseen @Cooper260z the other thing that it could be is the pushrod that between the booster and the master cylinder that needs adjustment. But double check for air first.

I used a generic one from rock auto on mine, I prefer to use beck arnley as I’ve had good results with their products. have you confirmed bleeding air from the system out? What do the rubber hoses look like from the hardline to the calipers?

I signed up for Beck's registry way back when for the same reasons. I didn't get no stink'n sur-tif-cate Carl!!! More power to the guy - pass the baton'.

I sent a message asking if they had clear title. They actually sent me a photo of the title, pasted below. I'm guessing that they really think that it is a 1972 240Z. I wonder if they even know about the places where the VIN should be on the car. Or maybe Wisconsin has one of those "lost title" programs where you just fill in your own information. Supposed to be an automatic. Who knows what's really going on here, the digger you deep the deeper you get. The title was issued in 1992. Just noticed it has a 240Z radiator with the little shield. Even though it has AC magnet valves and should have a full shroud. It also has the full EFI intake system all the way through the air filter box, but missing the last little plastic snorkel. Quite a puzzle. I sent one last request asking them to send me a picture of one of the two VIN plates. Let's see what happens. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1972-Datsun-240Z/224263144994?hash=item3437200622:g:HPAAAOSw3ZFfyTd8

He's working from his hospital bed, or somebody is pretending to be him. He's on the Cradio. https://twitter.com/RudyGiuliani?ref_src=twsrc^google|twcamp^serp|twgr^author

All parts rust free.....only in California.....home of the silent electric vehicles!

Holy crap.....the rear quarter panel looks great.....worth $1,000.00.

No thanks Mike......I spent more on my sculpture than I did on my first Z. Saving my money to go to Holland next year with you to meet our girls!!!! Guy

Is he the owner of a 510 with moss growing on it?

It may be a bit off topic, but on the note of "European versions" i just got this March 1977 Datsun dealer price list from Datsun switzerland, which includes prices for the 260Z (incl. 2+2) and others: there is no currency, but i highly assume that it's swiss francs (CHF). I'm currently in touch with a few old nissan / Datsun dealerships and trying to obtain more 240Z specific documents and promotional material. allthoug most of it has been scrapped over the years.

Replacing a rear quarter is a bit of work but quite doable. I did both of them on my car. l used a half dozen or so of the cheap spot weld bits. I cut about 6” lower than the original seam on the rooftop and butt welded it. Everything where else I plug welded using the hole left from drilling out the spot welds. Make sure not to drill trough when removing the old panel, you need the metal to weld to. I did not bother with any bracing.

There's people that say the guitar belonged to JH, a special built by Tony Zamatits. Then the guy that filmed that said it was not. It's in the R&R HoF in Cleveland Ohio. I think it's Hendrix's and the film maker misspoke? Cool story though. https://societyofrock.com/in-just-1-take-filmmaker-catches-jimi-hendrix-playing-incredible-12-string-acoustic-jam-like-no-one-else/

All good advice! and don't even consider buying it in Quarts and spraying it yourself to save money. I tried and couldn't find anything it would feed through properly... It is very thin and will run every where. It dries very quickly

They do have a wax spray but that's not it. You'll need a minimum of 4 cans to do the car properly, I wish I had bought 6, it is very thin and sprays out so fast that the can will be empty before you know it. It pays to do a few practice runs.

Not sure what if any value this bestows on your vehicle other than the equivalent of a participation trophy.

I had not seen this before... Excellent, and it's definitely Jimi!

I've used a pressure washer a few times to clean out blocks, it works very well on getting the muck out. Make sure you have some kind of face shield when doing it, rusty sand in the Cornea is no fun.

I threaded a nipple into the drain hole on the left side of the block and jammed a length of garden hose onto the nipple. The nipple was the one that threads into the back corner of the head, and the garden hose was from my buddy's hose when he wasn't looking. We did two blocks like this. First block we used ospho, and the second block we used evaporust. The ospho worked better, but the evaporust didn't stink like the ospho did. Note that the length of hose must be long enough so that you can keep it above the deck surface. Used a funnel to fill it, and then just unhook the hose and lower it into a bucket to drain. What you can't see is that I made a block off plate to cover the water holes that go into the front timing cover. But the rest of the process looked like this: Fill it up to the point where you get worried about it coming out the holes in the deck and let it sit: If I were to do it again, I would use ospho followed up by the evaporust. But I would do the ospho with better ventilation. As for the rinsing... I made a copper adapter spray nozzle for a hose that worked as a kinda pressure washer. It wasn't pressure washer high pressure, but I bet it shot twenty feet at typical house water pressure. I don't have any pics of that device, but if I can find it, I'll snap a couple. The biggest advantage was that it was small diameter and about a foot long. you could stick it into the holes in the block. wretch it around, and really blast stuff out.

Putting it into 1st and then into reverse is my way to limit any grinding. There those three bolts in the sandwich plate between the bellhousing and the main/tail section. There is a spring and ball bearing that is use as an indent. Too much pressure and the shifter is locked in place. Too loose and it will come pop right of gear without much effort. Those springs in most trannies have never been replaced. I'm not saying this is the cause of your issues but it's one more thing to consider. I solved my problem by getting a longer bolt and a few washers. A little trial and error got the issue fixed that is until it grenaded several race days later caused by me not any of the repairs. Rebuilt and back in in a week.

I used Eastwood internal frame spray instead of cavity wax. It has a long tube so you can coat the inside of pretty much every frame rail and has a chromate type finish and if it gets on any outside surface, won't interfere with finish paint

I would try to find a pressure washer to borrow and go at it. I bet most of that will wash out

That's turning into a thing now? @Diseazd you have started a trend! Plane propellers and ship's wheels have been high end decorations for years now. I have a collection of emblems off cars and motorcycles that I've crashed. Not a showy thing but as a reminder of money up a wild hogs arse.

Hey @Diseazd, now you can have a whole side of a Z hanging on your garage wall !! 😉

Tom

Jimi.

Top view looking down piston bore (flat top is on right) Flat top: Bridge is wider (front to back). Jet sleeve is fixed and jet depth is set to correct height in factory (no choke up/down movement). Front and rear ramps are different geometry. Piston diameter is smaller Has 3 circuits Main (jet and needle like in a round top) Choke (see the small forward spraying nozzle upstream of main jet) Power Valve (off idle transient to WOT...see the hole on right side of ramp at back of bridge) Has air bypass around main jet for setting idle mixture. Has integrated fuel bowl below jet. Front view looking into throat (flat top is on right) Flat top: Bridge is lower in throat. No stepped edge on front of bridge. It blends into ramp. Choke nozzle is seen in foreground in front of main jet protruding from the floor. Floor of throat from front of carb blends into ramp. Choke valve (in open position) is seen in foreground near top. Tube bringing ambient air to push up on piston is seen in foreground on right. Rear view looking into carb (flat top is on right) Flat top: Bridge is lower in throat. Higher vertical dropping edge "cliff" at back of bridge Narrower vertical dropping edge Rear edge of bridge is further back in carb and closer to throttle valve Power valve fuel outlet is seen as hole on lower right of photo below the bridge level. Idle air outlet is as hole on middle right of photo above the PV fuel outlet. Bushing for throttle valve (removed) is seen on side wall of throat