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My good friend TJ Lord and his father Gary were gunned down in their Virginia City gun store yesterday.TJ was a sniper and my sniper instructor when I decided to take that training just because as an officer, I could. He made me feel welcome when I think the other students thought I was just an elitist shouldering my way in to the training.Lately, I would see him at the range as I still go almost daily.We both made it back from Iraq with me spending time in hospitals for over a year. It's just so hard to have a brother killed violently when we both thought we were safe now... Well, as safe as you can ever feel after combat. We'd laugh about both trying to get the chair facing the door in restaurants. We'd tell each other when a nightmare woke us up. We'd laugh at ourselves for only knowing how to say "get on the ground" in Arabic. He taught my daughter how to shoot and how to clean her weapon. I never told him but she had a crush on him and told me but not him... People say 'thank you for your service," but truthfully, we did it for the man or woman standing next to us. TJ stood next to me. RIP brother...

A friend pointed out a very nifty electrical accessory he found. It is a battery mounted multi-fuse box with various inputs and outputs.. Seems brilliant given the multiple fused outputs, both low and high current, and compact fit-on-top design. And the price! A hefty £37 British pounds. Shipping for two of them cost me an additional £14 pounds. Pretty cheap. Did not come with any fuses, but they common types. MIDI and MAXI Hang a couple of relays on the side of this thing, and you could have quite the nerve center for any well equipped resto mod Datsun https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/1100 This outfit has lots of other interesting electrical bits too. Check it out when you have some browsing time

If it's gas Mig you'll pick it up quickly, it's very forgiving, however Datsun sheet metal is not, it tries to blow holes in itself. Start with small tack weld for the panels, jump around letting them cool and eventually join them all up.

siteunseen's approach is a good way to more precisely check float levels. I manufacture and sell Float-Sync on eBay (pictured below) and have received excellent feedback, if you are interested. Float-Sync is the best way to calibrate float levels between two Datsun 240Z SU carburetors because you'll actually be able to see the fuel level in each bowl, even with the car running. The level of fuel in the float bowls is the first step you should take before making other fine adjustments to optimize “runability,” In my experience Float-Sync gets you to the baseline as quickly and accurately as possible. I learned, like most of us, to set float levels by removing the float bowl cover and measure the distance between the edge of the lid and the top of the float while the cover is inverted. What I've since learned is just how imprecise this approach is because many variables. Those variables include whether the carbs are being run with or without float bowl gaskets, how many turns down the jet nozzles are set, if the float valve is fully opening and closing, if the float bowl lid has short or long ears and if floats are intact and their buoyancy is the same in each float bowl. I'm sure there are a number of others.

That was lifted from frost fighters website. Apparently there is no residual material after application---only the lines. A purpose built grid that matches in lengths, spacing and element thickness should be as close to original as one is probably going to get and in my mind would likely be a better performer than a mix of old and repaired segments or a new conductive grid with irregular thickness (hence resistive) properties. I appreciate your "do it myself" approach and applaud you for it. My only intent here is to see if there is interest in a quality one source solution that virtually anyone can purchase and install with a minimum of hassle and a maximum of performance.

I crapped my pants buying wood on the weekend. An eight foot "Two by Four" is $9.20 here with tax in. And we are surrounded by trees in Canada! I'll build next year.... what are prices where you are?

That is a terrible tragedy, especially since he was home. Though it may seem trite, I sincerely offer my gratitude for your service, as well as your friend's. Supporting our troops means more to me than placing a sticker on my bumper.

Condolences. Words don't help most of the time. But I understand the feeling.

just about finished on the apex engineered subframe model

@conedodger so sorry to see this... no words can replace a lost friend.. hope you're doing ok Mike

No! Get the hatch to hinge bolts out. No hatch line up on re-install. Getting tight flat head Philips screws out might be a bit of a pain, but use a ratchet with a power bit, not a screw driver.

Love it!! Thanks for sharing. As you say, interesting other products too! [emoji106] You would of course have to flip the battery round on a RHD car as the positive terminal is under the wing! [emoji15] BTW, I’ve used AES for years - they are brilliant to deal with.

$6.25 CAD in Calgary for a spruce 2x4x8' at Home Desperate. Was hard to even buy fencing materials this spring. Everyone was building something while stuck at home. This just in, Lowes has fake Spruce, (white wood!) SUDS (not studs). Wonder where they get it from... C h i .....

I'm late/wrong as usual but here's a picture I have from my 280 combo switch labeling what I found.

The Toronto Globe & Mail newspaper recently ran an article in which these high lumber costs were blamed on a pandemic-driven surge in home renovations. Curiously, about a week later the same newspaper ran another article which said that a major mill on the Canadian west coast was temporarily shutting down because of an absence of demand. I drew these apparently conflicting stories to the attention of the newspaper but never got a reply. Thrown into this mix is the longstanding and ongoing battle between Canada and the US over the extent of protective duties imposed by the US on imported Canadian softwood lumber. It's my sense that there's a lot of planted story-telling going on here as part of various parties' attempts to manipulate things to their benefit. Here in central Canada, an 8' length of 2x4 is currently selling for Cdn$6.15 (that's $6.95 tax-in). If you're being charged 32% more than that in Atlantic Canada, it looks like a regional premium (which may depend very heavily on where your regional mills are finding their best market opportunity at the moment -- my guess being the U.S. northeast). SteveJ's report of US$6.00 sounds about the same as your NS pricing (converts to about Cdn $8.00, or Cdn$9.00 tax-in). One local lumber-department price that did catch my attention last weekend was that for a 10' strip of half-round 3/4" molding (plain, unfinished). About Cdn$12.00 !

Home depot $4.94.

What he said ^^^!

And masking tape on the roof around the hatch hole where the hatch might touch too. Hood is easy one man, hatch not so much... Take the hatch strut off first. Not that I’ve ever forgotten to....

I'm sure others have succeeded at this task. In my case, I used my engine hoist. I wrapped the hatch using HF-quality cargo straps -- one strap along the vertical centreline, the other along the horizontal CL. I used zip-ties at the crossover points so as to make sure that the straps didn't walk under load. Lift cautiously. Study the balance. Watch to ensure that nothing shifts. Make sure in advance that you know where you're going to drop the hatch panel after removing it. A set of movers' blankets is a good idea for protecting the hatch paint once in storage. BTW, I successfully re-installed my hatch (a much bigger challenge, BTW) using the same process in reverse.

You and me both, brother...you and me both. ?

I would think a good buffing compound and a rotary buffer would take care of the lines

The correct nuts have centering bosses to align the face plate with the radio. Do the WE nuts have that feature? At least they do on the early AM only radio, I'm not sure if they are the same for the later AM/FM radios.

Check to make sure the resistor is still plugged into the tachometer circuit.

I had the same issue for one of my Hitachi radios and ordered a pair from Wholesale Electronics, Inc. The nuts are 8MM and are made specifically for import radios. www.weisd.com is located in Mitchell, SD. The 2 nuts were only 8-cents apiece and were the last 2 available. Hopefully, they have more now. The grand total with shipping was $10.06. Steve

I also have a shipment from KFVintageJDM on the way. As per your experience, the shipment emanated from Bogota. I, too, have found the company's customer service to be excellent -- fast replies, helpful and on-topic information. Shipping was by way of FedEx and the costs were surprisingly modest. I'm using a USA-to-Canada cross-border trans-shipper service recommended to me by Grannyknot and hope to take delivery at their Toronto drop site sometime next week.

The extra bushing goes to the long, thin contact for the wiper washer switch... Also, that bushing has nothing to do with the headlights blowing the fuse. Your headlight contact Inside the switch is grounding out because it's misaligned. Open it back up inspect it. If you bent that "teeter" contact plate, it will go to high and hit the metal case and ground out.

Dave, Late to this discussion but--- I made readings from a NOS hatch glass with horizontal defroster grid that I was fortunate enough to find and purchase recently. Using the 200 ohm setting on the VOM 1.6 ohms was the resistance value measured. I've thought in the past when S30driver and I were discussing this that we might reach out to frost fighter and see if they would consider a purpose built replacement grid for our Z's that would exactly register over the original element lines. Since almost all defrosters on our cars are non-op and that no source currently offers replacement hatch glass with the lines, there might be enough of a market that they would go for it at some price point. I'm reluctant to utter that iffy phrase "Group Buy" , but pre-sales might provide leverage as an inducement to them.

This is great info thank you all. I think I need to take it to a good alignment shop to get “SAI” and that will really pinpoint what could be wrong. Still leaning towards something in the bottom of the strut housing with a slight tweak. I will update this as I get numbers back from an alignment Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Can’t sleep. From my camera...