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Yep, much the same this side of the pond. The ENTIRE aisle of loo rolls, kitchen rolls, soap and hand wash had been visited by the locusts. My wife popped out for some paracetamol and all of that stuff is now all gone too! So to console her I pulled out my timing curve. Should have seen the look [emoji1787][emoji13]

This was the what my local Walmart looked like today. Shameful people are hoarding stuff. Buy what you need for two-three weeks. Funny that the Corona beer was on sale. I grabbed some. There are idiots that think the beer has something to do with the virus. Darwin.....where are you when we need you. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It's absolutely ridiculous out here. Went to, or tried to, Costco yesterday and couldn't even get into the parking lot! Ended up going to Smart & Final and they were nearly out of everything but didn't have what we were looking for. Walmart, CVS, Walgreens, Big Lots, Winco, Riteaid, Vons, Ralphs, Aldi were all out of paper products and water. They are starting to limit people now on how much they can purchase which is a good idea. Going to venture out sometime to look again. Not looking to hoard like I've seen. Just beef-up what we have. Good luck to you all and stay well.

Well, I’m on septic too. We’ve been in the house 5 yrs and I finally decided last summer might be a good to to pump it. The company said it looked good, except for the tree roots. We have 5 people but we use Charmin I think? The point is people over react. You should always have a supply of household staples like TP around. We live in a hurricane susceptible area so this is normal business. I always have TP, beer, water and 5.56 FMJs around just in case. For the 280Z people an extra ECU, fuel pump, fuse links and fuel pump relay are good ideas too. I should have an extra dizzy after tearing down three and the parts I’ve ordered. I’ll put that in the box with the stuff above. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Today's mind-numbing exercise: servicing 18 switches with disassembly, cleaning, burnishing the contacts, dielectric grease, assembly. About 3 hours for 18 units. Two others in the batch have broken toggles and will get the new metal toggle replacement switches.

I remember there was a thread about tools to remove the rear main cap and thrust bearing cap. Here's mine in use today.

We have the news recommending that we also stock up on bottled water, most of which is drawn and bottled from municipal water supplies. No one has explained how the virus can or will foul our water supplies. If there's one thing we have an abundance of in the rainy NW, it"s water. I believe the panic is caused from a lack of knowledge about this virus. There's very little info being offered other than wash your hands, stay home and if you're over 60 you may be screwed.

Spoiler is finished. Undercoat is also done. Now just finish buffing and paint/install the trim and rubber door/t top seals and she comes home. I would imagine 7-10 days. He also notched the frame rails and welded in some metal to box it in so that the control arms can have full clearance just in case I ever wanted it to almost lay frame. Not that I ever will but I wouldn't ever want to have to go back in and have it done.

I agree on a level but I also have my wife and two girls in the house. My wife spins that toilet roll like it's wheel of fortune. One time I had my septic guys come pump my tank out. There was an iceberg of toilet paper in there. They made a comment about not using so much TP. I told them I have to pick my battles...

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Me either Jeff.......I’ve never replaced rear bearings. My motto “ If it ain’t broke, don’t break It”

Thanks. My back acts up from time to time. I just have to be careful and not over use it. Ahh, okay. Yes, I did see threads about the bearings being too tight. I read "adding onto threads" and was trying to figure out how I add onto an axle thread. I plan to ignore the nut torque at first and just worry about end play and breakaway torque. I bought the ZX nuts, so I'll use the old nuts which now have the peened areas cut off to seat everything and then swap them for the ZX nuts once I'm happy with the install. Thanks for the heads-up. Of all the Z's I have owned over the past 38 years, I have never had to do rear bearings. If this wasn't a race car and I didn't already have to take it apart for the brake swap, I probably wouldn't replace these either. They had just a tiny bit of play, but not that bad. I was surprised by how little grease was in there. Both the inner and outer bearing stayed in the hub and the axle came out with no grease on it. I haven't removed the bearings or seal yet, but I didn't really see any significant anout of grease anywhere.

I'm torn on the wedge bolt. My RH one was pretty beat up, so I either need to buy new ones, or leave them out. If I leave them out, I will likely silicone over the hub holes before I ever put it back together to keep moisture out. If I put them back in, I'll antiseize them well. Does yours have a threaded rod, or a bolt like their web site shows? I don't think a threaded rod would be a good idea. The threads are never going to be as tight a fit as the pin's smooth shaft and it could cause play in the joint. Any movement will equal slight toe changes under either cornering or accel/decel. I looked at the T3 site and their bolt has a smooth shank for one rod end and the hub, but the other rod end sits on the threads. I think they should have sourced a bolt with a longer shank, but at least the hub and one of the two rod ends are supported. You can actually see in the photo how the threaded end is slightly smaller OD than the shank. Apex Engineered arms have a similar design as T3. Again, I would have used a bolt with a longer shank. Nissan would never engineer a joint like that nor would any other auto manufacturer.

They have always had reserves It is primarily a market place for salvage vehicles, but they have tried to expand that in recent years to vehicles that aren't wrecked. They also sell donated vehicles, like Angel cars. A car like this is probably a private seller but most of the cars are being offered by insurance companies. sometimes the ad says who the seller is, sometimes it doesn't. I just thought the price was astounding

I wonder how many tuners are going with a flat curve because they're mimicking the limitations of the mechanical distributors. Example from the internet - https://stinger-performance.proboards.com/thread/1003/megasquirt-tuning-basics-timing

It comes from Tuner Studio (I'm a tuner too, u get me bro?) It's the fuel table for my injection, so it's actually a pretty accurate reflection of the VE and includes all the bits and bobs from the airbox onward. Yes, it does correlate to where the power is well. In a stock engine I guess the action starts around 2500, so I think the rising VE and likelihood of knocking is probably why the ignition curve stays flat. Maybe in theory one could start adding more advance again after the the torque/VE peak is passed, but that's would be very hard with springs and weights!

Meanwhile a numbers matching 8/70 on bat a few months ago sold for $1k, and was less of a project than that. Pft, forget craigslist, I’m just going to sell my parts cars on copart. That’s crazy...it’s hard to believe those are real bids for that car.

I think I would prefer the correct shape over all else. It would be nice to know how they compare to the factory thickness

When someone sneezes everybody around them craps their pants is all I can figure. I just left my local grocer, Saturday morning routine for years, they weren't any parking spaces. It was a madhouse!

I have not measured , but they seem to be the advertised 18 gauge which is plenty thick for the floors . I think 16 gauge would be better for her floor frame rails, but can not say whether 16 is stock thickness or not . If installed correctly these floors would look more stock then previous ones I installed( I’ve only done floors once before ) . The seat pedestals are better than anything else on the market - that I know of . I still remember having to beat the snot out of my Zedd floors to get the tunnel side to fit correctly . It was also hard to maintain a level floor install for some reason - maybe the stamping was slightly off or just user error ?

The cars came from the factory with shady wire splices. Rewiring probably won't fix your problems. The turn signals are the switch, the gauges are probably the bulbs. You need a Z shop, not a god shop. (Edit - no offense intended to god shops...)

As a general question to the audience. Would you prefer thicker metal or a more accurate stamping?

Yes I did . I have not fitted them, but put them up against the floor and they seem to be a good match . I not sure they are the same thickness of Zed Findings, but their shape seems to be better for the early S-30 . They look exactly like the photo above. The floors don’t come with the extension pieces for front and back , I guess you have to order the whole kit to get them ? I emailed them to ask for those pieces and have not got a reply. They also didn’t send shipping info so I had no idea when they were coming . Packing wasn’t the best either , but it all survived . The seat pedestals and frame rails also look good as a match. Again I thing the 18 gauge is lighter then the Zed’s floor frame rails . I got all of it 3 days after the order so it all came very quickly . I can post pics if someone wants

There is no reason to put the locking pin back in. In fact a threaded rod works just fine instead of a spindle pin. I have the T3 RC arms in my race car which has over 180 track days. The threaded rod that came with the RCA is still working fine and I see no reason that a similar rod couldn't be used in a set of stock arms.

Searching through my stack of old CD's was fruitless. I was able to start over though and here's what I was able to whip up so far. Using the 280Z stroke length and center to center rod length, I get the following: Note that for my calculations, I used everything pointing straight up (TDC) as" zero degrees". So the maximum piston speeds occur at 75 degrees off vertical. About 75 degrees after TDC when going down, and about 75 degrees before TDC going back up.

This is ridiculous! Do people think your gonna be crapping more than normal as you wait this thing out watching reruns of Happy Days. I mean how much crapper paper do you really need. A 6 pack would last me a month. These idiots buying 50 rolls like they’ll have explosive diarrhea for 30 days in a Walking Dead episode This virus doesn’t blow your lower seal. We have a county full of complete morons. We have a collective national IQ that scares me more that this virus! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well if that won't teach me to stop thinking while on pain meds (recovering from shoulder surgery) - It certainly seemed okay yesterday. ? CO: I was looking at the diodes to suppress arcing from the load when the relay opens which would reduce contact damage. Not sure I ever used one across a coil, but I certainly agree coil inductance can cause trouble in certain circuits. My oversight on the 20A feeding both - I agree with you. Thanks for the corrections!

As you said, all of this is probably moot, but thought I have some comments. First, the shunt diodes are in the correct place. You're trying to squelch the flyback kick from the relay coil. The relay contacts are on the secondary side and have absolutely nothing to do with that. Many relay manufacturers include diodes inside the relays already (in the correct circuit location), and that's what it looks like the OP was planning to use. Second, the original 10A fuses each powered just one headlight side. But in this new scheme, each 20 fuse powers BOTH sides at the same time. Not getting into whether it's completely appropriate or not, doing the math simply doubles up the original fuse size from 10A to 20A. You did the math and came up with 4A for each bulb... I wouldn't want to run 8A continuous (from both sides at the same time) through a 10A fuse. Lastly. the connection to the high beam indicator is fine. The HB indicator bulb is in parallel with the relay, not series. They both get "drug to ground" through the switch. OK... I'm back into my hole now. Haha!!

I'm slowly assembling things back together after grouping old parts re-plated, one of them is this early wiper motor. It might be an overkill since it is hidden under the cowl, but most importantly, it still works!

Battery Bling! Finally got around to installing new battery terminals that have sat around about 4 months. I like the way they look and will be great for the eye candy part of car shows but the functionality will require more effort. Instead of just a 1/2" (13mm) wrench, I'll have to add a full set of Hex keys and a 9/16" to the tool carry kit. The plastic covers look good too but there's Nooo Waay that I will ever let an Autozone guy replace the battery without me removing them first.

Beautiful car, extremely well done. Congrats - now, drive the damn thing and get some long past due enjoyment out of it.