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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/09/2019 in all areas
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5 pointsMy Vintage Dash discussed earlier in this thread is now installed in my '73. Here is how it looks now. (Installed by Motorman7)
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2 pointsI love their dashes. Very good deal and good quality. Will be using them for my white Z in the near future.2 points
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When you click on it it will download to your computer or phone. Check your Downloads area. Or, you might not have a pdf file viewer on your system. I created an image from it.
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Oh God almightly, BE CAREFUL!!! I did this. There is a drawing in the manual for a wood wedge that is used to block the chain tensioner from moving when you create slack. The drawing is deceptive - that tensioner is much farther down inside the timing gear cover than you think it is. I have been in there, and I personally would NOT do that unless I could get a very accurate wedge drawing from someone with a demonstrated working wedge. (I'm delighted that you have a volunteer for this.) That wedge has to be way down in the timing cover, and it must be tapped into place VERY firmly. I thought this was a rather trivial deal when I pulled the cam sprocket, but it is NOT. It's a potential huge pain in the arse. Screw that up, and you'll have to pull the fan, water pump, crank pulley, and timing cover to get at the tensioner. It is VERY difficult to get that timing cover back on with the gaskets oriented properly with the head on the engine. I gave up and had a professional shop do it.2 points
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2 pointsI finally got the floor painted in my new barn (had to wait 30 days). I got the 280Z up on the lift for the first time.
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1 pointToo late for me now. Hes got my money. Holy f—k what a beating on the dollar conversion. Cdn to usd1 point
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honeslty cant recall, but it did have dimenions, and I did have to adjust printer setup.
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I made the one from the down load plans. That being said I would hesitate to go too deep into this. Back to orig problem failed HC, so I assume rich setting. easiest thing to try 1st is to confirm AT THE ECU the resistance values vs. Temps on the temp sensor. A little bit too much resistance there and you end up with a rich run. Next Start switch enrichment, again it should not be there AT THE ECU when key is not on "Start". Lastly AFM air temp sensor, again AT THE ECU. Since it has the stock ECU might as well make sure those parts are sending it good info. I just seems like its going to be hard to know what is working without a way to monitor the exhaust gases with any changes made.1 point
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Well thank you! I am lucky, scares me sometimes lucky. Frugal too, scares OTHERS sometimes frugal. ?1 point
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Thanks very much for helping with more measurements. And I hear you - if you managed to do that with a screwdriver, I bow to you, and to both your mechanical prowess and considerable good luck!! ?1 point
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OK, it downloaded in Chrome. Firefox blocked it. Thanks for the nudge. The only dimension noted is the length. It would help to have a dimension for the top width, the distance to where the block narrows, and the width after it narrows. Not complaining, just trying to make sure our online friends have the info they need.1 point
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As he crossed the Finish Line and checked to make sure his Depends underwear was still working, he was heard to say, "I meant to do that." ? Dennis1 point
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1 pointA pressure gauge will tell you if it's a fuel issue. Since the problem is repeatable you should be able to put the gauge where you can see it while the problem happens. Ignition module issues usually show signs through the tachometer needle. It will read high and jumps around as the extra sparks screw things up. You're down in hot Austin so you could also have the vapor lock issue, especially since you have a different engine, maybe with some hacked up fuel system parts. Find out where your fuel lines are running. What kind of fuel pump are you using, mechanical or electric?1 point
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1 pointI have a 100 micron pre and 10 post filter. I made some mounts for them. But I’m having issues fitting both. I might just got cheap clear 100 micron inline filter.
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1 pointMade a tiny stainless bracket for my air temp sensor. I cut it a little close. But it works great.
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It's clearly a OEM Nissan cam, but it's not clear if it's been reground, right? If I'm understanding correctly, couldn't he just measure the cam base circle in-situ and determine if it's a regrind?1 point
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This is a very informational read. Wayne's World: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/timing/index.html1 point
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1 pointFound another good looking Z on B.A.T: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1974-datsun-260z-32/ Anything odd pop out at you guys?1 point
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Still, does it really matter? If it's a radical cam he'll be able to tell by the loping "cammy" idle. If it's not radical it probably doesn't matter too much. I see multiple things happening at the same time. The path to the disassembled "wish I hadn't done that" engine.1 point
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1 pointI have never seen a photo of that stamp on the jack point on the front x member before.1 point
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1 pointHere are some quick phone pictures of the underside and some of the removed and extra parts
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I think he's wanting to see the writing under the cam sprocket to determine what cam he has. Good to know if you can find it. Aftermarket ones have different valve specs. If I was you I would read up on sprocket holes 1,2 and 3. They can be swapped to make up a tighter chain after wearing. They stretch somehow. Blues, er Japanese Racing White's, Tech Tips has a write up on it. Google "Blues Tech Tips". I'll give the scan a try tomorrow after work. Today is for running my mouth and beers, or vice versa.1 point
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Oh, I'm talking about the tool you'll have to have to push in the tensioner. ?1 point
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That is a truly amaZing find! Even more so since the discounted price at Courtesy is $49 each. Thanks for posting the results of your search, looking forward to your update.1 point
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1 pointMay you an ad in the classifieds and ad some pictures. It would be interesting to see the quarters. especially the interior side1 point
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1 pointThat column goes up and with 4 bolts through a "puck" shaped bushing connects to the steering wheel arm that comes through the firewall. Remove those. I remember having to loosen up the rack itself and rotate it forward to get the column either off or back on? it's a real snug fit. Replacing that puck looking bushing is pretty cheap and easy. Makes a huge difference for a steady steering wheel while driving. Zcardepot probably has one? Or Napa maybe, they have weird odds and ends for our cars. Heck Nissan may have them?1 point
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1 pointI bought some thin offsets (~1/8" thick) for the fronts so I didn't have to flatten much the wheel bearing cap. It also allowed the rim to slide over the hub easier. Once I had the offsets centered properly, I used a small amount of plumber putty between the hub and offset to hold them in place for when I remove the wheels so as to not alter their position. These have been great for 10yrs now with no shimmy or vibration when driving at high speeds. Had front end alignment done and good to go! https://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/gorilla-automotive/product-line/gorilla-wheel-spacers/part-type/wheel-spacers?SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Ascending&N=thickness-in%3A0-125-in My 73 has 16x7 Konig Rewinds with 205/55/16's on the front and 215/55/16's on the rear (The rear tires are about 1/2" wider but give me an accurate speedo reading). Love the Konigs, they were much lighter than my cast iron rims that came with the car. Plus easy to clean.
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1 pointI can also. Better than looking at a severally cracked dash like mine. When I installed a full face on mine it was a daily driver. And my cracks ran down the front of the dash and into the gauge pods so a dash mat was out of the question. And as long as its replaced with a new dash when convenient, some day, hopefully. Every time I turn around I'm spending money on the house. Just went thru a $5100.00 re-pipe. Not fun! Could have bought a new dash 6 or 7 times with that money. Anyway........1 point
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0 pointsI spoke James at MSA before I built my harness and he indicated that they were out of stock.0 points
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