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moritz55

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moritz55 last won the day on September 10 2016

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About moritz55

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Map Location
    Raleigh, North Carolina 27617
  • Occupation
    Engineering Executive

My Z Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    240z
  • About My Cars
    I owned a Datsun Dark Blue 1971 240z from 1977-1982. Bought it for $2400 with 42,000 miles. Never used in winters and eventually sold it June, 1981 after our1st child was born (for the same price I bought it for - $2450 with ~63,000 miles. My 240z interest was renewed as I purchased my 2nd one (Orange) in Oct. of 2006 and my 3rd one (Green) in July of 2007. Both recent 240z's are 1973's, Orange 11/72 and Green 9/72. Moved from MN to NY in '08, sold the Orange 240z and kept Green 1973 240z, HLS30-124668. In 12/2010, purchased my 4th Z, a 370z Sports Package in Black Cherry w/6spd Manual.

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  1. For Sale are misc. parts that can be used to convert/update your 4BBL 390CFM Holley configuration. Items for sale are: Asking $200 for everything includes shipping (48 continental states).... or OBO for items separately. Send private message or call my cell: 507-208-0140. 1) Throttle cable & valve cover attach bracket ( see Pic 2: items #1 & #2).. Plus Pic 1 : Stock Gas peddle linkage (#1) , L-Arm (#2) and Firewall attachment brackets (#3 & #4). 2) 14" eccentric K&N air cleaner (pics 5,6,7). I used it to get much better air flow for mixture optimization through the RPM ranges.... It improved acceleration performance. (see pics)... 3) Manual Choke cable: this attaches directly to existing Stock Choke Lever in center console (pics 3&4). Many thanks for looking.... message me.....Mark.
  2. Bump... price dropped to $700 and includes shipping ...and updated with pic showing throttle linkage parts..... If anyone is interested in buying portions of the kit, let me know.... I will sell off individual parts.. Send private email...
  3. I am in the process of converting my 1973 240z back to Twin SU's (ZTherapy ones) and will be pulling off the complete 4BBL 390CFM Holley & Arizona-Z manifold assembly. Car has about 10k miles on this 4BBL Conversion Assembly... runs perfectly.... listen to the videos... Kit currently would include: I am accepting offers but was hoping for $700 for everything, shipping included ... Send private email or text to Mark: (507) 208-0140 ... 1) 4BBL Holley 390cfm Carburetor with extra jets/gaskets and springs for rebuilds are included (does not need rebuild...). 2) Arizona-Z Intake manifold, polished and looks great. 3) Two(2) sets of K&N air filter assemblies. I currently have a low profile eccentric 14inch one that improved airflow for better fuel/air mixture balance into cylinders. (Last pic shows the thicker smaller Dia K&N Air Cleaner assembly). 4) Throttle cable & Rare attachment brackets that attaches directly to the firewall. Will also include linkage from Gas pedal - L lever. So no need to modify your accelerator pedal. (see pics, items 1 thru 5 included) 5) Manual Choke cable (only cable, not choke lever hardware), 4BBL has manual cable that attaches directly to the stock choke lever in the console. 6) I can include a New Intake manifold gasket if desired... Here are pics and videos: .... Starting 240z with manual Choke: Watch "4BBL Holley 390CFM , L24 240z, Video 1" on YouTube https://youtu.be/6qwap_ndOVY ... 240z running WITH Manual Choke On slightly: Watch "4BBL Holley 390CFM, L24 240z Video 2" on YouTube https://youtu.be/7wjbxx4HAXU .... 240z running cold, with Manual choke OFF: Watch "4BBL Holley 390CFM, L24 240z, Video 3" on YouTube https://youtu.be/gbun3k8id4w
  4. I have a 240z Flow Guide Valve for sale with mounting bracket. It works perfectly however the exterior can be polished up more. 1973 240z FSM Installation Manual: 240z - Flow Guide Valve 2.pdf For sale for $23.00 .. via Paypal includes FREE SHIPPING to 48 Continental US States. PM me for any inquiries.... Many thanks....Mark
  5. I am selling a set of bumperrettes with the front over-rider for a 1973 240z. They are pretty good shape. Chrome shows some minimal signs of ware on the bumperrettes. The over-rider has some dullish chrome but is very presentable. One rear bumperrette has a shorted bolt (see the pic with green tape on it). This will have to be replaced so its long enough for attaching to the rear bumper. Asking : $155 for the entire set. I had them installed on my Green 240z... these are extra parts as I had my bumpers re-chromed and newer bumperrettes and over-riders available. If interested .. PM me. Many thanks, Mark.
  6. moritz55

    Dash Repair Process/Pictures

    I am not here to hijack this thread...just do an update on my dash. I was asked recently to share how my dashed has held up using the Six10 marine epoxy ( The Six10 Marine Epoxy Link: Six10 Introduction ) as surface repair and feathering material when I repaired my dash while still in the car back in 2013. Now that it is August 2018 ... 5-1/2 years later the dash looks super. Here are recent pics after I installed a Refurbished Stock Working clock in the dash. Note: My car is in North Carolina and stored in a garage without climate control. Temps reach 100+ in the summer and as low as 0F in the winter... and no cracks have been observed. How to use Six-10 Epoxy: Reference this old post from 2013:
  7. Jalex, I think your Hex Bolt Receivers that hold the Air Box base to the Carbs are "Too Long" . Or maybe your Wing Nut Bolts are "Too Long" either way they should only screw in about 3/8" or possible 1/2". Thus removing the airbox cover they come out 3/8" to 1/2". This should be enough clearance to not scratch the Strut wall. These Wing Nut bolts also must stay attached to the removable airbox. Here is my '72 air box assembly with pics.... The Wing Nuts for attaching the airbox only screw in about 3/8" and the wing nut bolts stay with the removable air box housing because of a rubber grommet sandwiched in the hole channel. See my pics.... I know this is late ... but thought I'd post these pics.. Good luck.....
  8. moritz55

    moritz55

  9. Any insight on the Cold Valves being .003" - .004" under spec. For 20k miles since the last check and 25k since the rebuild, I wouldn't expect them to be that closer to spec but have no experience on this. My other thought is the valve gaps were set incorrectly at rebuild. Maybe others could weigh in. Many thanks....
  10. Thanks everybody for all the posts. I finished up the Valve Lash adjustments and am glad I did. Also I re-torqued head-bolt #1 & #2 to correct a very minor oil leak. FSM Torque spec : 47 - 61 ft-lbs. Headbolt #1 - when I backed it off 1/4 turn .. I used my torque wrench and noted 50 ft-lb to break it free. I figure this was low since I had to overcome static friction. I then torqued #1 bolt to 60 ft-lbs. The re-torque added about ~1/2 turn. Headbolt #2 - when I backed it off 1/4 turn ... was noted at ~63 ft-lbs. Re-torqueing was just over 1/4 turn at 60Ft-lbs. Note: I had a very slight oil leak between cylinder #3 & #4 on the passenger side near Head bolt #1. This seemed to fix the very slight leak... no signs of oil when I started and ran it for a while after the valve adjustments. I will watch for this long term. Now .. I'd like some feedback on my valve readings. All were taken "Cold". The car had 20k miles on these and I think they should have been adjusted 10k miles ago. Maybe they were initially set up to tight from the rebuild? These seemed extremely low. Intake (Cold Gaps): .004" (lowest) .. most ran .005" Exhaust (Cold Gaps): .006" (lowest) .. most ran .007" I adjusted all the Valve gaps to their FSM Cold settings. Intake: .008" Exhuast: .010" When I finished up, the car started great and warmed it up. Ran it total a good 20-25mins up to 3500 RPM smoothly and smooth on decelerations. Checked the timing and idle when all was done and everything remained stable and no adjustments were needed. I have a Mallory Breaker-less Disty, don't know if this makes any difference. Only I believe slightly more valve tapping - but it may be just me expecting with the wider gaps to spec., but not loud and bad. Anyway - thank you all for the help... I welcome feedback on the Cold, valve readings before & after adjustment. Many thanks, Mark.
  11. Ah ... thank you ... My error. As you can tell I am new at this.... Great help here... will let you know how it turns out. Many thanks.... Mark
  12. Hello .. I am in the middle of adjusting my Valve Lash and as I removed the Valve cover I noticed my rockers' lock nut and Adjusting nut are not Stock. This leads me to believe my Cam is not also.. so before I go to far on adjusting I'd like help on getting some questions answered. Engine was rebuilt about 25k miles ago and runs absolutely great. Last valve lash adjustment was done about 20K miles by the prior owner and he does not know the specifics of the rebuild other than is was "enhanced" and has a 9.5 : 1 compression ratio as a result of new valves & seats, pistons, stock block bore & hone. Any insight or help is appreciated. 1) My L24 cam has F30 stamped on it (see photo), is this stock or not? 2) My adjusting nut is 17mm (vs 14mm stock) and lock nut is 24mm(vs 17mm stock). Should I adjust the Valve lash to FSM L24 spec? Cold Intake Gap: .008" Cold Exhaust Gap: .010" 3) If the F30 Cam is not stock, what should I adjust my valve lash too or doesn't it matter? Many thanks... I am new at this and would like to do it right . Mark
  13. moritz55

    Dash Repair Process/Pictures

    Here's a few more of the finsihed dash.. Overall it was a bit tricky painting .. I practiced outside the car on a piece of wood to assure I had the SEM texture paint distance right. At best I could only get about 16inches of distance, so after 24hrs, I used a gray scotch brite pad to smooth them down evenly. Then for top coating I used light coats of Dupli-Color Low-Gloss Black (DE1634) and Semi-Gloss Black (DE1635) which withstands excessive temperatures. Alternating light coats allowed me to blend to the original face which had more luster. This paint is used on all types of engine parts and bonds superbly to clean surfaces of all types. Anyway .. many thanks for this outstanding thread. I would not have tackled this dash repair while still installed if I did not have materials that worked easily for shaping the dash back to almost original contour. It's denfintely better than having the dash mat. Let's see how it holds up in the North Carolina Summer! Happy St. Patrick's Day to all ... Mark
  14. moritz55

    Dash Repair Process/Pictures

    Well, I spent 1 week repairing my dash while installed in my car. I didn't want to tear everything out and I was absolutely sick of the dash mat. I followed all of the procedures in this thread ... THANK YOU with one exception. I had trouble smoothing and sanding the SEM Bumper Repair epoxy. With my dash installed it's tough to shape it properly. I had quite a lot of experience using Six10 Marine Epoxy on my boat to repair a swim platform. It's got great bonding and strength characteristics plus it's thick and holds perfectly when spread while also having a 42 minute working life. I applied it with a siringe on top of the cracks still visible from the Stuff Foam allowing it to be reaised above the surface for easy spreading. It spreads superbly thin such that I had at least 1.5 inches spread over the uncracked portions for proper overlap adhesion. It required minimal sanding even though sanding is not to bad after 24hr cure. After I sanded it down pretty well shaping it close to original contour I used car body fine glazing compound to fill scratches and fine pin holes. This allowed me to get the shape pretty well back to original without damaging my windshield (which is 3yrs old - I know, I should have repaired the dash back then - but never thought of it!). The Six10 Marine Epoxy Link: Six10 Introduction If it were'nt for Six10 Epoxy that I used on my boat so successfully, I would have never been able to tackle this and get the shape right with my dash installed. I hope it holds up well ... will keep you all apprised. Here are photos before, during and after completed.
  15. moritz55

    ZXP Adaptor buyers, Please read and respond!!!

    I did not dawn on me so that's why I posted , more for clarity's sake Mine is considered a 1973 even thought it has a Mfg'd date of Sept, 1972 . So it fits into your assessment.
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