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moritz55 last won the day on September 10 2016

moritz55 had the most liked content!

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About moritz55

  • Rank
    Registered User


  • Gender
  • Map Location
    Raleigh, North Carolina 27617
  • Occupation
    Engineering Executive

My Z Cars

  • Zcars Owned
  • About My Cars
    I owned a Datsun Dark Blue 1971 240z from 1977-1982. Bought it for $2400 with 42,000 miles. Never used in winters and eventually sold it June, 1981 after our1st child was born (for the same price I bought it for - $2450 with ~63,000 miles. My 240z interest was renewed as I purchased my 2nd one (Orange) in Oct. of 2006 and my 3rd one (Green) in July of 2007. Both recent 240z's are 1973's, Orange 11/72 and Green 9/72. Moved from MN to NY in '08, sold the Orange 240z and kept Green 1973 240z, HLS30-124668. In 12/2010, purchased my 4th Z, a 370z Sports Package in Black Cherry w/6spd Manual.

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  1. moritz55

    Dash Repair Process/Pictures

    I am not here to hijack this thread...just do an update on my dash. I was asked recently to share how my dashed has held up using the Six10 marine epoxy ( The Six10 Marine Epoxy Link: Six10 Introduction ) as surface repair and feathering material when I repaired my dash while still in the car back in 2013. Now that it is August 2018 ... 5-1/2 years later the dash looks super. Here are recent pics after I installed a Refurbished Stock Working clock in the dash. Note: My car is in North Carolina and stored in a garage without climate control. Temps reach 100+ in the summer and as low as 0F in the winter... and no cracks have been observed. How to use Six-10 Epoxy: Reference this old post from 2013:
  2. Jalex, I think your Hex Bolt Receivers that hold the Air Box base to the Carbs are "Too Long" . Or maybe your Wing Nut Bolts are "Too Long" either way they should only screw in about 3/8" or possible 1/2". Thus removing the airbox cover they come out 3/8" to 1/2". This should be enough clearance to not scratch the Strut wall. These Wing Nut bolts also must stay attached to the removable airbox. Here is my '72 air box assembly with pics.... The Wing Nuts for attaching the airbox only screw in about 3/8" and the wing nut bolts stay with the removable air box housing because of a rubber grommet sandwiched in the hole channel. See my pics.... I know this is late ... but thought I'd post these pics.. Good luck.....
  3. moritz55


  4. Any insight on the Cold Valves being .003" - .004" under spec. For 20k miles since the last check and 25k since the rebuild, I wouldn't expect them to be that closer to spec but have no experience on this. My other thought is the valve gaps were set incorrectly at rebuild. Maybe others could weigh in. Many thanks....
  5. Thanks everybody for all the posts. I finished up the Valve Lash adjustments and am glad I did. Also I re-torqued head-bolt #1 & #2 to correct a very minor oil leak. FSM Torque spec : 47 - 61 ft-lbs. Headbolt #1 - when I backed it off 1/4 turn .. I used my torque wrench and noted 50 ft-lb to break it free. I figure this was low since I had to overcome static friction. I then torqued #1 bolt to 60 ft-lbs. The re-torque added about ~1/2 turn. Headbolt #2 - when I backed it off 1/4 turn ... was noted at ~63 ft-lbs. Re-torqueing was just over 1/4 turn at 60Ft-lbs. Note: I had a very slight oil leak between cylinder #3 & #4 on the passenger side near Head bolt #1. This seemed to fix the very slight leak... no signs of oil when I started and ran it for a while after the valve adjustments. I will watch for this long term. Now .. I'd like some feedback on my valve readings. All were taken "Cold". The car had 20k miles on these and I think they should have been adjusted 10k miles ago. Maybe they were initially set up to tight from the rebuild? These seemed extremely low. Intake (Cold Gaps): .004" (lowest) .. most ran .005" Exhaust (Cold Gaps): .006" (lowest) .. most ran .007" I adjusted all the Valve gaps to their FSM Cold settings. Intake: .008" Exhuast: .010" When I finished up, the car started great and warmed it up. Ran it total a good 20-25mins up to 3500 RPM smoothly and smooth on decelerations. Checked the timing and idle when all was done and everything remained stable and no adjustments were needed. I have a Mallory Breaker-less Disty, don't know if this makes any difference. Only I believe slightly more valve tapping - but it may be just me expecting with the wider gaps to spec., but not loud and bad. Anyway - thank you all for the help... I welcome feedback on the Cold, valve readings before & after adjustment. Many thanks, Mark.
  6. Ah ... thank you ... My error. As you can tell I am new at this.... Great help here... will let you know how it turns out. Many thanks.... Mark
  7. Hello .. I am in the middle of adjusting my Valve Lash and as I removed the Valve cover I noticed my rockers' lock nut and Adjusting nut are not Stock. This leads me to believe my Cam is not also.. so before I go to far on adjusting I'd like help on getting some questions answered. Engine was rebuilt about 25k miles ago and runs absolutely great. Last valve lash adjustment was done about 20K miles by the prior owner and he does not know the specifics of the rebuild other than is was "enhanced" and has a 9.5 : 1 compression ratio as a result of new valves & seats, pistons, stock block bore & hone. Any insight or help is appreciated. 1) My L24 cam has F30 stamped on it (see photo), is this stock or not? 2) My adjusting nut is 17mm (vs 14mm stock) and lock nut is 24mm(vs 17mm stock). Should I adjust the Valve lash to FSM L24 spec? Cold Intake Gap: .008" Cold Exhaust Gap: .010" 3) If the F30 Cam is not stock, what should I adjust my valve lash too or doesn't it matter? Many thanks... I am new at this and would like to do it right . Mark
  8. moritz55

    Dash Repair Process/Pictures

    Here's a few more of the finsihed dash.. Overall it was a bit tricky painting .. I practiced outside the car on a piece of wood to assure I had the SEM texture paint distance right. At best I could only get about 16inches of distance, so after 24hrs, I used a gray scotch brite pad to smooth them down evenly. Then for top coating I used light coats of Dupli-Color Low-Gloss Black (DE1634) and Semi-Gloss Black (DE1635) which withstands excessive temperatures. Alternating light coats allowed me to blend to the original face which had more luster. This paint is used on all types of engine parts and bonds superbly to clean surfaces of all types. Anyway .. many thanks for this outstanding thread. I would not have tackled this dash repair while still installed if I did not have materials that worked easily for shaping the dash back to almost original contour. It's denfintely better than having the dash mat. Let's see how it holds up in the North Carolina Summer! Happy St. Patrick's Day to all ... Mark
  9. moritz55

    Dash Repair Process/Pictures

    Well, I spent 1 week repairing my dash while installed in my car. I didn't want to tear everything out and I was absolutely sick of the dash mat. I followed all of the procedures in this thread ... THANK YOU with one exception. I had trouble smoothing and sanding the SEM Bumper Repair epoxy. With my dash installed it's tough to shape it properly. I had quite a lot of experience using Six10 Marine Epoxy on my boat to repair a swim platform. It's got great bonding and strength characteristics plus it's thick and holds perfectly when spread while also having a 42 minute working life. I applied it with a siringe on top of the cracks still visible from the Stuff Foam allowing it to be reaised above the surface for easy spreading. It spreads superbly thin such that I had at least 1.5 inches spread over the uncracked portions for proper overlap adhesion. It required minimal sanding even though sanding is not to bad after 24hr cure. After I sanded it down pretty well shaping it close to original contour I used car body fine glazing compound to fill scratches and fine pin holes. This allowed me to get the shape pretty well back to original without damaging my windshield (which is 3yrs old - I know, I should have repaired the dash back then - but never thought of it!). The Six10 Marine Epoxy Link: Six10 Introduction If it were'nt for Six10 Epoxy that I used on my boat so successfully, I would have never been able to tackle this and get the shape right with my dash installed. I hope it holds up well ... will keep you all apprised. Here are photos before, during and after completed.
  10. moritz55

    ZXP Adaptor buyers, Please read and respond!!!

    I did not dawn on me so that's why I posted , more for clarity's sake Mine is considered a 1973 even thought it has a Mfg'd date of Sept, 1972 . So it fits into your assessment.
  11. moritz55

    ZXP Adaptor buyers, Please read and respond!!!

    Hi Dave and folks. Happy New Year ! I just read this thread and thought I'd share my data. I have a 1973 with a build date of Sept, 1972. It did not come with an electric fuel pump therefore I assume no Fuel Pump Relay. For almost 4years now, I've had the ZXP installed with a 60amp 280xz alternator. Also have the HLH and PLH harenesses. I've not had any battery drain experience. My battery is 6years old and came with the car when I bought it. I do use a battery tender for winter storage and any period where the car sits for 3weeks or so. So I think it's more important that 1973's with the Electric Fuel Pump installed are the ones that may be affected. Anyway .. hope this helps.
  12. moritz55

    Welcome Advice - Going to buy a 370z

    Thanks again everyone! I did email photos to the dealer of my Green 240z and they now have it posted on their dealership wall along their Recognition plaques. I'm now lining up getting the 3M Paint Chip protection installed which having lived with plenty of chips on my 240z - I'm determined to minimize on the 370z. Mitch , I'll have to let you know when I down in Cary, NC next. My plan is to be down there in February for several weeks working and also enjoying the 370z. I'm about 175miles looking at Mapquest. Back road's would be pretty cool! Thanks all and Happy Holidays.
  13. moritz55

    Welcome Advice - Going to buy a 370z

    Well, I just closed the deal on buying the 2010 Black Cherry 370z with the Sports Package. The price didn't drop much (~$850 less I figure), but I did get the shipping costs from PA to Cary, NC included along with the bottom black air dam replaced/installed since the original was scuffed up. Given it's a 2010 under the Nissan New Car Warranty, I felt it was a good value even with 520miles on it now. Many thanks for all the advice and hope I didn't let you all down because this car is absolutely gorgeous and wanted to preserve it! Happy Holidays to all !!
  14. moritz55

    Welcome Advice - Going to buy a 370z

    Many thanks again for the tax and Year End "tricks" to think about... Well I looked and drove both cars today. Both cars have the same larger brakes, wheels and 6spd Mech Syncro shifting so performance wise they are equivalent. The Gray has the better sound system and leather interior with heated seats. Everything else is equal between the cars. ==> The Gray car was pretty abused... many scratches on the front bumper and driver rear fender. The front lower black plastic air dams were beat up with the passenger side one in front of the wheel totoal torn off/missing. The driver carpet was torn up pretty bad, looked like a dog chewed it up. It had a lot of dings and interior sctaching and abuse, maybe an dog was left in a while by the prior owner when he/she was shopping?? Additionally it had 15,000 miles .. not 14,026 as advertised. Additionally the car had a rattle in the back hatch area. It's way over priced ... I said I'd consider it for $24,900 .. they were only willing to come down $600 right now to $29,300... so I walked away. ==> The Black Cherry car was prestine. New entirely throughout. The lower front black plastic air dam was scuffed, but they'll replace it (it's about a $140 part). It now has 520miles after I test drove it, this means it's still under Nissan's Full New Car Warranty so it's not Certifed Pre-Owned. It's still a Nissan New Car even though technical used. Both cars drove terrific with unbelievable pure power and comfort. The steering is super tight and the Mech Syncro 6sp Shifting is "Amazing" ... I dropped it from 6th into 3rd without touching the accelerator and the engined Rev'd/Sync'd perfectly without any jerking! It was pure pleasure and effortless - almost taking a bit of the "challenge" out of down shifting compared to our 240z's. I'm focusing on the Black Cherry one... waiting to hear back on what they will offer including shipping to a NC Nissan dealer for me. Anyway .. stay tuned and again many thanks! p.s. I updated this and included some photos of the Black Cherry.
  15. moritz55

    Welcome Advice - Going to buy a 370z

    Thanks for the bargaining advice from all of you. I did have a Dealer who I use to buy my cars from when I lived in Minnesota get me auction price data last night and he said the 2010 Black Cherry car is about $1000 above the auction price where as the 2009 Gray with 14k miles is close to $2000 above the auction price. He felt the 2010 was clearly a better deal starting out. The Sports options with the 6spd Mech Syncro, spoiler, 19" Rims and Larger Disc/Calipers carry more value than the Touring Options, primarily becuase this is more a sports car for enthusiasts (heated leather seats when the car is used in mild weather only tends to be a waste and the 8speaker Bose in a small car like this doesn't make a huge difference especially given both cars have iPod/MPE Aux input jacks for the driver's choice anyway. The Aluminum trim pedals is a nice touch however that comes with the Touring package). My plan is to keep this car in my North Carolina residence garaged. So at best I'll be putting 2000-3000 miles on per year similar to my 1973 240z. It will never see snow, salt or much rain for that matter. Anyway , I'll keep you posted !

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