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Woot! My yellow 240z was recently featured in the VTO Wheels Customer Spotlight! I was wondering why Alex wanted me to take some photos of the car.. Anyone notice the cat posing for the photo? His name is Mr Banks and will sign autographs. ? Thanks @VTOwheels Mike PS: One correction, I am running Tokico Illumina adjustable struts (it says I am running stock struts). p{ margin:10px 0; padding:0; } table{ border-collapse:collapse; } h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6{ display:block; margin:0; padding:0; } img,a img{ border:0; height:auto; outline:none; text-decoration:none; } body,#bodyTable,#bodyCell{ height:100%; margin:0; padding:0; width:100%; } .mcnPreviewText{ display:none !important; } #outlook a{ padding:0; } img{ -ms-interpolation-mode:bicubic; } table{ mso-table-lspace:0pt; mso-table-rspace:0pt; } .ReadMsgBody{ width:100%; } .ExternalClass{ width:100%; } p,a,li,td,blockquote{ mso-line-height-rule:exactly; } a[href^=tel],a[href^=sms]{ color:inherit; cursor:default; text-decoration:none; } p,a,li,td,body,table,blockquote{ -ms-text-size-adjust:100%; -webkit-text-size-adjust:100%; } .ExternalClass,.ExternalClass p,.ExternalClass td,.ExternalClass div,.ExternalClass span,.ExternalClass font{ line-height:100%; } a[x-apple-data-detectors]{ color:inherit !important; 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} } @media only screen and (max-width: 480px){ .mcnTextContent,.mcnBoxedTextContentColumn{ padding-right:18px !important; padding-left:18px !important; } } @media only screen and (max-width: 480px){ .mcnImageCardLeftImageContent,.mcnImageCardRightImageContent{ padding-right:18px !important; padding-bottom:0 !important; padding-left:18px !important; } } @media only screen and (max-width: 480px){ .mcpreview-image-uploader{ display:none !important; width:100% !important; } } @media only screen and (max-width: 480px){ h1{ font-size:30px !important; line-height:125% !important; } } @media only screen and (max-width: 480px){ h2{ font-size:26px !important; line-height:125% !important; } } @media only screen and (max-width: 480px){ h3{ font-size:20px !important; line-height:150% !important; } } @media only screen and (max-width: 480px){ h4{ font-size:18px !important; line-height:150% !important; } } @media only screen and (max-width: 480px){ .mcnBoxedTextContentContainer .mcnTextContent,.mcnBoxedTextContentContainer .mcnTextContent p{ font-size:14px !important; line-height:150% !important; } } @media only screen and (max-width: 480px){ .headerContainer .mcnTextContent,.headerContainer .mcnTextContent p{ font-size:16px !important; line-height:150% !important; } } @media only screen and (max-width: 480px){ .bodyContainer .mcnTextContent,.bodyContainer .mcnTextContent p{ font-size:16px !important; line-height:150% !important; } } @media only screen and (max-width: 480px){ .footerContainer .mcnTextContent,.footerContainer .mcnTextContent p{ font-size:14px !important; line-height:150% !important; } } *|MC_PREVIEW_TEXT|* Customer Spotlight Mike Gholson of the Classic Zcar Club knows wheel fitment is key to getting the look that makes his car stand out. Mike came to VTO Wheels because he knew our fitment and customer service is the best in the industry. The VTO Classic 8 GTR 16"x7" wheels gives Mike's Z car a stylish finish, while the deeper lip gives a much more desirable and understated aggressive look. This yellow beauty is sitting on stock struts with Tokico springs that lower the car 1 inch. The VTO's are 0mm offset and wrapped in 205/55-16 BFG G-Force Sport 2 sticky rubber. No rubbing issues are reported, and the ride is said to be smooth and free of vibration. Thank you for your support, and please let VTO help you find the perfect fit for your next project, whatever the year, make, or model may be. Don't know what offset or bolt pattern to run? With us fitment doesn't have to be a guess! We will send you a wheel to test your fitment so you know that when you place an order, the fit will be perfect. Shop VTO Wheels Copyright © *|CURRENT_YEAR|* *|LIST:COMPANY|*, All rights reserved. *|IFNOT:ARCHIVE_PAGE|* *|LIST:DESCRIPTION|* Our mailing address is: *|HTML:LIST_ADDRESS_HTML|* *|END:IF|* Want to change how you receive these emails? You can update your preferences or unsubscribe from this list. *|IF:REWARDS|* *|HTML:REWARDS|* *|END:IF|*

Hey Gav, You can get the service Manual / Schematics / parts list for the Hitachi TM-1081ZB here: https://www.jdmjunkies.ch/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/hitachi_tm-1081-zb_all_transistor_auto_radio_1970_sm.pdf If you need any further support regarding the electronics repairs, you can ask me. I'm a former audio-/Video electrician with a couple of years daily experience in repairing old radios. Jus hit me up. i can guide you through the restauration of old electronics if needed. Preview pic only, click Link above for full file with all the pages.

I just haven't updated in 3 months! I spent a couple of days over the winter just chasing the threads on the entire car, such a treat now to screw in a freshly zincd bolts. Hoping to get the engine/trans in this weekend.

Nice! Looking forward to rocking my own VTO’s...

Hi Chris, your glass was $ 30.88 in late 1969 or early 1970 . And labor time was 2.0 hours . it is interesting to see the glass tinted but no defroster was the most expensive. Kats

So paint is done and finally starting to put her back together.

I have been encouraged to start a build thread about my restoration of HLS30U-00026 so here goes. I started many, many years ago, as most of you know, and got sidelined during the depression in 2008 which lasted for me until 2014 or so. Although I managed to carry on with my involvement in the Z community over the past decade, the cars have been pretty much sitting in storage and very little work has been done. Then about a year ago, I got back into it and started sorting through my stuff, creating little projects and slowly stepping back into the restoration. A month ago, I talked to the guy who is doing all the paint and body work for Steve / Twin Cam Sportscars. Steve's business / shop is right around the corner from my shop and I have known Steve forever. You may recall that Twin Cam Sportscars helped with the restoration of Classic Motorsports magazine's Lotus Elan that appeared at Amelia Island. I started the work on the chassis years ago with another body shop that associated with Twin Cam, "Beautiful Bodies", but he went out of business during the depression. Now its Kim / After Hours Racing who agreed to take on the partially completed chassis. And here is where we are today...

My 07/70 has an early hood as well, No drain holes, no reinforced corners. And I am sure that it had a flat hood release, but I mixed up my parts when I was putting it back on which means zKars has it in his parts pile now.

I put that on my big screen and my dog watched every bit of it! He likes it? I do not.

Cliff, then try this one for a little variety, Dennis

Nice wheels Mr. Mike. They do look a lot like my Rota Rbs. Cheers, Mike

Got the steering wheel finished up.

Yesterday I spoke briefly with the seller Roy and he confirmed that the rear hatch glass is clear without any rear defogger lines. I also asked him what the reserve was and all he said was that is was higher than the current high bid of $1,700.00. No pictures in the listing of the underside of the hood to see if it's an early one. The auction ends today. Anyone interested in the car can call Roy at 905-704-8475.

Dont want to hijack Kat's thread here. We can have a further discussion in another place. just a few inputs here: I can see that chipped part contains a piece of PCB track which is now broken. You can simply replace / "bridge" it with a wire soldered to two corresponding points on the PCB to complete the track again. Those old PCB's are always single or double layer only, so easy to fix broken tracks. You can see on page 7 of the previously posted schematics where the tracks go. But i have to admit those old schematics are a bit tricky sometimes ? Another tip (probably solves your problem) is to replace all the electrolytic capacitors (All that have a + and - symbols in the schematics): They contain an electrolytic fluid which dries out after several years and can cause a lot of weird "scratching" noises and other faults. Also marked as "electrolytic" in the parts list on Page 10. Replace all of them and you will have a lot of electronic gremlins elmininated, and / or expanded the lifetime of the unit for at least another 5 to 10 years. Make sure to use the same specified parts as listed in the parts list or marked on the parts. I recommand to use at least 85°C temperature rated components, even better 105°C capaciters. Even if the radio never gets that hot it will have a longer lifespan and the price difference is only a few cents. Other than that i can't see a lot of problematic parts. Except maybe the mechanical sliders / Switches, which are easy to replace or clean with a specific cleaner spray (using cheap contact spray or WD40 may solve noise issues on the sliders and mechanical potentiometers for a short period, but will significant decrease the lifespan of the component in long term view, as those cheap / wrong sprays may attack the coal-contacts).

Thanks I have that manual, but I had difficulty understanding it. Perhaps because I don't have the same background as you do. I'll be sure to reach out to you. I am waiting on the radio chassis to come back from re-plating. Then I have to find my reference pics of when I took it apart. Which you can find here. https://photos.app.goo.gl/AvuUP6gMXZW9qMKL7 I started with this radio because it was damaged in the post (chassis got bent) and it chipped a part of the PCB off, which I was wondering how to best repair. It still works but I have trouble with the signal seek function. I figure if I mess this 1 up, at least it was already damaged, but given the value of these radios now I want to fix it properly. ?

@kats just wanted to say thank you for sharing that 8- track repair information. If I manage to figure out how to restore these Hitachi TM-1081ZB(S). I'll be sure to share a write up.

Header install is now complete. Hard to see them now. Sounds great though. Cannot test drive yet because I also have developed a front suspension problem. Just the opposite of the other thread oddly enough. New parts as well. I will post up to get your alls opinion.

Wow... Good question. I don't know. I suspect that very few people even know that bottom portion comes out so easily!

09-70

You're killing me. Tons of progress

Easy peasy! Great find on a parts car - I'm seriously jealous.

I have the Float Sync, and think it works quite well. The way I use it is to lay a 14mm nut on the edge as shown and that gives me a great level indicator.

After: My lucky Day.. clear windshield early hood with no corner reinforcements early gauges early radio early mirror early alternator early hatch with vertical wires and vents (uncracked) one storage door grill in great shape Bumpers in great shape Side and window glass in great shape 2 sets of 4 screw carbs mostly uncracked plastic panels perfect center console perfect headliner and vinyl trim early 710 oil cap E31 head Notable items: Engine and transmission was swapped no differential lots of rust steering wheel was swapped seats were recovered COIL OVERS! Pulling off flatbed distorted rear but the bumper is fine... whew THIS IS A BIG PICTURE!

Actually, I believe that Bugs Bunny used to say "What a Maroon" - but I digress....

Hi Chris. Glad to hear your plans for 26th and 27th are finally back on track. As you may know, I had reproduced, along with others, the red mastervac decals being sold by Motorsport and Banzai. More recently I have made the earlier ‘69-‘70 mastervac decal, also very nice and yet to be offered for sale. let me know if they would be of interest to you. the second photo is an original decal, the first, my reproduction. Colors, not well illustrated in the photos, are very accurate. Dan

You guys in Japan are very cool!

Today I arrived home from 1800km round trip in four days . I took my ZG for this journey, I must say “ ZG is the best partner for grand touring . If you have a properly tuned L24 with G-Nose , you would not want to have one more camshaft , nor one more carburetor. ? A fuel consumption is way better than Z432 . This time my ZG scored 13km per litter (30 mile per gallon ) when doing 100km/h (60m/h ) Highway driving . Quiet , stable , and powerful. My non-restored ZG still can go anytime anywhere . Hub caps stick to the wheels always ! Kats PS : I have a question , is this cigarette lighter cooperated with an illumination also equipped for export models after Sep 1971 ? Fairlady 240ZL / 240ZG and Z432 have the illuminated lighter .

Thanks for all the great replys. I drove 26th for years before I took her apart to restore. I consider her 'my car' and as such do not intend to restore her to stock because I intend to drive her. I have 27th to restore stock. That's the plan. Both cars are originally 907 racing green with tan interiors. They will be restored that way. 26th is going to get my competition 5 speed and some other nice period correct do-dads like headlight covers and Watanabe wheels. I'm toying with the idea of recreating the tan interior for 26th in leather. Something like what Len Welch did. So today I have a tale of two radiators. I had the radiator for 26th re-cored some time ago and it has been sitting on a shelf in storage. I took the radiator out of 27th to find it damaged and had it repaired last week. My, what has happened to the price of copper and brass! The radiator for 27th also needed a replacement bottom and before I knew it, the radiator for 26th had a new bottom pipe replaced. All painted and cleaned up. New overflow hoses and I have ordered repro decals for both from Banzai.

Hi Kats, They both look 'period correct' to me, but I find it's often hard to give 100% positive identification on such parts because they tended to supersede the design quite quickly and there could be several versions. Added to which - as you have noted - privateer users tended to have their own theories and experience, and would modify to their own specifications. And then there were copies, and copies of copies. Yours look trustworthy and correct to me. As a reference point, here's a photo of some genuine Works team S20 cam sprockets which were used in period. Complicated!

About my spare S20 , the head had an quick inspection at racing shop T- mind . I am happy that the head is intact and no bent , no need shaving . Also crack was not found in visual check . But of course it needs to be tested with filled water in a pressurized condition. I have managed to obtain a set of race option camshafts , “8L “ is the name which is described in a race manual . 8H is a lot exciting at a higher RPM but nothing below 3000 rpm . Please see the picture , one has “48” and the other has “49” on the end of camshaft. I think this is a marking for making and assembling . Kats

This is bad condition . Auto tuning is good . And repaired , Kats

The solution is insert a washer to lift the fly wheel just a little bit .Thickness is the matter , you need to be sure that not to insert a thicker washer which would make impossible to snap a E shape clip at the bottom of the fly wheel’s shaft . And also shave the stud to make a gap between the stud and the fly wheel . Kats

Hi , today I have a lot of things to post here . Gavin, I have only one tip which I can tell you about is , a repair of a 8 track cassette operation . Seems nobody would be interested in it, but anyway I will give it a try describing it. There is a big fly wheel in the middle of the deck . This fly wheel is driven by the rubber band . This is so heavy so that it has a tendency to sit lower gradually in its life . What happened next ? The result is Lowered fly wheel scratches a head of a tiny stud . This is a cause of slower turning of the fly wheel , and the music ended up “ very slow “ . Also you will hear a dragging noise dusting operations, even worse some decks can’t turn the fly wheel . to be continued. Kats

If I had to guess $600-1000 depending on condition. Most of the hoods I see for sale are about $300. So I doubled that and went from there. I don't know that I've ever seen an early hood

Thank you for sharing all of this @26th-Z and kudos to you for making the car your own. I know some would run moan and groan about not making it 100% stock when you have everything to do so. However, no matter how rare or low the VIN, these cars were meant to be driven and enjoyed. Everything you are doing will make it a fun car to drive. Plus, if you ever wanted to return it to 100% stock, you could. Keep up the great work!

I found the problem. Zed Head sent me in the right direction when he recommended looking at the coil wiring. Years ago I cut signal wires to the distributor on the main harness. I crimped them back together but not very well. the wires were able to pull out of the crimp by hand. I put the wires back together again and the problem has gone away. lesson: young self did things inadequately, those problem will haunt you years later. Thanks for all the help everyone.