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I might be a little bit biased but I think if Nissan put the original 240z design back into production they would sell million of them. Update the suspension, brakes and electronics but leave the exterior exactly as it was.

Thank you for all the tips! We made it back without a hitch! We took all of your recommendations and carefully inspected the Z and also brought tools, spare parts and fluids with us. We were willing to have it transported like some of you mentioned if we had any doubts but it drove really well. The only things we noticed were the following (which we will get to this week hopefully): - Soft suspension - Soft brakes, have to nearly step all the way down on the pedal - The headlight/wiper switch needs to be replaced (Seller gave us back $200 to fix this)'

Finally got my car finished. The last toy I got built for it was a custom box so I can leave the stock stereo in. With this box I can listen to my tunes through Bluetooth Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Last year I couldn't find any new, nor remanufactured 6/7" boosters for my 72 240Z ... the reman's at that time said they had no cores to work with. There were remanufactures that would rebuild yours - if you sent it to them though one of the Major Auto Parts Stores. I did not like that option, to easy to get lost on all the handling by different people. Oh yes, I hasten to add when I did find the right size boosters on line - I ordered them - when they arrived they were the wrong size (1973 size) - so had to return them. So I sent mine to Booster Dewey in Oregon. His web sight doesn't mention rebuilding 240Z booster - but I called him - and one of the guys that works there owns a 240Z, so they did them as well. I sent him my original and had it back about 7 days later. It wasn't cheap - AIR $165.00.- but I was happy with the turn around time and quality of work. Might want to give them a call if you can't find someone closer to you..1-503-238-8882, 4335 SE 63rd Ave. Portland, OR 97206 http://boosterdeweyexchange.com While you are at it and everything is apart - replace it or rebuild it now. (nothing lasts forever). fWIW, Carl B.

We’ve been around, just very behind and short-staffed (no excuse, I know), and we wanted to do some research. Thanks as always for linking us in to the thread. That being said, this first response will be just about the Fusible Links themselves. We have always, and only, sold the genuine factory Nissan fusible links. The 0.3 link was 24161-N4200, and superceded to 24161-Y0100. No service files show on these numbers. The originals we used to receive decades ago (as far as us “old guys” seem to remember anyway) were Brown. Then, many years ago, Nissan started sending Red links under that same part number. Relatively recently, the Red links were discontinued from Nissan for a time, and then a short while later, they made them available again, but this time what was sent for the same part number was Brown again, not Red. We unfortunately did mess up as far as our listing still recently showing Red (even though we were sending Brown). It was just an oversight where my department neglected to follow up and change “Red” back to “Brown” on the website. But they were always what Nissan was supplying for said part number. The 0.5 Green link was always 24161-28500, and the 1.25 Black link was always 24161-A0100. There are no supercessions or service files on these specifically (only the 1976 bulletin where they changed to 4 links, as you guys noted). So the 1975 listing was just an embarrassing mistake/unfortunate informational record typo that blossomed (AGAIN by MY department, sheesh. I’ll make sure there are floggings). It has now been fixed to where it should have been, with 74-75 being the “same”, not 75-76 being the “same”. Again, thanks for pointing this out. As far as the position of the 1.25 link on 77-78, we absolutely did take the positioning we showed directly from Nissan’s documentation, and are conferring with them and our own archived data about the error. I will be going today or tomorrow to access our stored 1978, and will respond to that part soon if there is anything worth adding to the discussion, since you guys have pretty much nailed it all down already.

You got to let us know your plan now. I want to get a bag of popcorn and hear about the outcome. Recap what I’ve read and agree with: 1. Fire Extinguisher 2. Jumper cables 3. Water bottles 4. Tool bag 5. AAA card (got a laugh out of this one) I’ll add 6. Oil and break fluid 7. Make sure you have jack and spare tire 8. A fully charged cell phone Good luck! These cars have a reputation for reliability but 40 yrs of owner abuse is where they unknowns come into play. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well the numbers show you are correct Jeff!!!! The Audi will provide more "feet".? But you will be lower in the Z, not as comfortable nor quiet as the Audi (the exhaust and triples will roar), and you will also "smell how fast you are going" ? So it will seem much quicker and primal.

Rims and Grill arrived today. The rims will need to be restored, can't wait to get started. They are 14x7. Looking at tire size combinations front and rear.

Where is all the primer dust? Your shop is so clean.

I did not call to check but Motorsports Auto still lists them for $150 + a big core charge. I got mine from them years back. Still working good too. https://www.thezstore.com/store/merchant.mvc? Make sure to check the reaction disc is in place when you reassemble it.

That is what I am looking for. The Audi is a comfortable GT car, but new cars have no soul. Old cars are so much more involving. I am actually pretty impressed with those numbers. It would be a good test to drag race the Audi and the 680 to see. Are those 280Z figures from the standard car? If that is the case, it would probably sway in favour of the Z, as my car should be lighter and more powerful than a stock 280z.

When they come to your house!

Some people photograph their food ?

Nothing specific to SU's but my understanding of "run on" or dieseling as we used to call it is that it's caused by hot spots in the combustion chamber. Why it was called dieseling. So, he either has dirty combustion chambers or sharp edges that are staying hot. High cylinder pressure would be more susceptible to dieseling. The common way to avoid it was to rev the crap out of the engine just before shutting down to blow all of the carbon out and get some fresh cool fuel and air in there.

Drove mine from Tennessee to Chicago in the middle of the night. Go for it, but check for fuel/fluid leaks before you go, watch the charge and temps. Great way to know the new Z. Maybe get haggerty insurance beforehand so you can get it towed to the house if it doesn't make it all the way.

Gotcha. If I were closer, I'd be happy to lend a hand. Problem is, this is going to be a "take a little off and try it... Take a little more off and try it again" kind of affair. Tough to do with two days shipping in each direction. One thing you can to do to help yourself out is figure out where you are on the needle when at WOT. By that, I mean... When you are at full load and the suction pistons are pulled all the way up, there should still be some needle sticking down into the nozzle. You could push the piston all the way up by hand and reach into the carb throat with a marker and Sharpie mark on the needle where it enters the nozzle hole. Then you would know where to concentrate your metal removal efforts. If you are running lean at WOT, you would want to concentrate your efforts where the WOT needle enters the nozzle and a little above and below that.

I haven't used Time-serts in the past but I have used Keen-sert inserts. They're made for high strength joints in low strength materials, like aluminum transmission housings.

Just about ready for color

Heli-coil is really only a temporary fix, do it right with a Time-cert and never think about it again, you might also want to replace that bolt with a new one if it is chewed up.

lol.. similar photos:

Not 100% sure, i don't think they're nos, but replated items or reproduction. anyway, the look awesome and all the details are right. they even offer two different versions depending on the year of the car ? Yes i know, but since i was ordering there anyway, i thought i get them along ?

Gotta say, not a fan of that design. There's really not much you can do the the Z to make it better honestly.

It was actually pretty simple. The bushings were still in good shape. I had a donor starter that I got the armature out of and the brushes in that starter were in good shape. So I just cleaned everything up and reassembled with the replacement parts.

I gotta agree with 240260280, this is going to be your favorite car. The sound and the torque are intoxicating, better start doing some neck exercises!

I get a little lost with most of the "updated redesign" results of most cars. Including the Z. There are people that say they see the first gen Z in all of the revisions that came after the 280Z, but I'm not one of them. I "get it" with the ZX and can clearly see the lineage, but after that, I lose it. I see no original Z in anything that came after it. Not to say that some of the successors aren't nice cars, but I just don't look at them and think 240, 260, or 280. Lately though, there have been several manufacturers closely following the original visual design with a brand new car. Like the new Mustang, the Challenger, the Mini, etc... IMHO, they all represent the original visual design very well. So all that makes me wonder what would happen if they tried this:

Thanks, Phil, good stuff! I will rely on your station measurements above and give it a try. I don't have a drill press, will have to figure out how to use my hand drill in some stationary format to get desired results. Will get some 600 grit wet and dry sandpaper to taper the needle. Might start with some old SM needles to practice on, move on to the RH.

Cord type material or packing isn't used much these days but was used for decades in older machines of every kind, if the material is packed in dry it will expand once it wicks up the oil and can give a good wiping seal. Of course your leak should be fixed properly at some point but it is pretty hard to justify dropping the whole trans for a 25 cent Oring. Another possibility is the flexible stretchy string that joins 3M ear plugs together, I have used it for many repairs, really interesting properties, you can stretch it to twice its standard length before it breaks but remains rubbery. I'm kind of a cheap buggar so I like to find alternatives.

It's fine. Just bolt it on!!!

I finally get it started!!! Wooo Hooo!. I had to cobble some bits together, but it starts and runs!

got the sparkler working

I say go for it! Bring tools and check fluids/belts before leaving. Get a AAA premiere membership, and if something goes wrong you could get towed up to 200miles. I purchased and drove my '75 from Auburn to LA back in 2007. I didn't trust the car 100% to make it up over the Grapevine so I went by way of the 58 to the 14. It's longer by a good amount but not as steep. Something to consider.

I would say go for it. If it craps out, it would probably happen early when you'll be in LA, with plenty of services around. Take it easy over the Grapevine, and it's all downhill from there. Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk

Bring a tool box full of metric everything. Maybe bring an entire gasket set, just in case of a failure, a shop in BFE might be more inclined to replace something if you present the parts. Bring a jack, and some jackstands. I would replace all the fluids when I got back, even if they were replaced just before the trip. Check the spark plugs once home, and begin surveying your new sickness. Sent from my N9130 using Tapatalk

I have three zcars. With each, my dad and I took a flight to the car and drove back to Atlanta. My dad and I had a great time along the way each time. Two of the three had mechanical issues that we had to deal with along the way though. Still...I would do all three again. First car was in Portland. Second car was in Phoenix. Third car was in Hershey PA. Each time we packed a suitcase of tools and a few spare parts. There was a long arse night in a pretty bad hotel in Midland Texas though. Car was running terrible. Fortunately a spare AFM for a 280 came in handy the next morning. I would say though...I would not attempt if the car didn't start, drive, stop, etc well enough when I tested it out in person. Because of the questions I had asked prior to the sale though, I felt good about being able to fly out and drive home with parts and tools. If the car didn't check out in person I would have made arrangements for transport...uhaul and rental, or transport company and fly home.

If it hasn't sat for any length of time and is nearly a daily driver I would go for it. Just bring some tools and all fluids just in case, plus what everyone else has said. Do you have pics of it? Sometimes pics may show a different story. Make sure battery is fully charged and alternator is charged I would imagine you are taking the interstate 5 or 99. If it were the 101 you would be passing thru Ventura and could make it a pit stop. We could check things out before you made the 400 mile trek, as long as I'm in town then. Good luck and keep us posted.

I'd try driving it if looks roadworthy and it's been driven recently. A shop manual, basic tool kit, mechanics wire, and duck tape should get you back to Sacto.

I vote for go for it. Watch the gauges. Don't let it overheat. Make sure the alternator is charging. Stop and check fluids every hour or two. It will be an adventure for you and your future wife. Stories... Too soon to be mundane. No offense to the cautious folks. There are probably some Z oriented shops along the way. Get their info and make the trip during business hours.

I bought my ‘75 280Z in NorCal (Petaluma) and rented a truck & trailer to bring it home to SoCal. The car was driveable, but I didn’t want to take a chance, hoping it would make it home without drama. Towing it home worked out perfectly. Good luck and congrats on your new Z!

Working on German hardware today..

Very nice! That's my new desktop back ground.

The front end work is complete: Tokico Illumina struts, Apex Engineered front crossmember, tie rods and steering knuckles, Arizona Z car aluminum oil pan, TTT tension rods, MSA anti away bar, rebuilt steering rack, Z Car Depot splash guard, powder coated stock control arms, strut housings and brake dust shields. Come to think of it, that was a lot of stuff! All the components went together well (with the exception of the stock control arms which had to be "shaved" at the back so as to go properly into the new crossmember) although they're all from different companies and we were able to align the car without any problems.

Price + I've always been satisified with the quality of parts. https://zcarsource.com/fusible-link-280z-75-78-brown-new-7557