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Nice 240 radio Jim! Best of luck with it. The AM signal seekers are the most fun to play with... Zup's approved bench setup is - a 12v garage battery charger, oem antenna, and a floor speaker he has left over from the woodstock era.

I’ve known Eiji for a long time......he lives and breathes L Series Motors. I share his passion......as does everyone on this forum obviously!!!!!

Hi Jim! What a fabulously good find! I echo Jim2's sentiments above! If it is in working condition, you know that you probably have--- in this one item---- covered the costs of your storage acquisition. Working signal seeking AM units go for really $tupid money these days. Yes to all your queries above. From memory------ it seems the red/blue wire is for the dial illumination lamp. Here's hoping she passes all further testing with flying colors!!

Johnson & Johnson Baby Oil. Let sit for a day or two. Add more to the spots that aren't shiny. Wipe off. Coming up on 47 years.

Charles, thank your for your input. Together members of this site are the brain trust on Z cars. I used to think that I was an expert on these cars, but sometimes the members of this site make me feel wanting for Z knowledge. I just hope that I can share something from time to time that helps someone. JLP

Not my car but an item in my recent parts hoard purchase. Hoping for another unicorn find with this one. I cleaned it up yesterday and refreshed the faceplate with a silver Sharpie - not to worry, a chrome pen is on order to get an accurate look. Its missing the Hitachi model # sticker on the bottom but otherwise very complete and in great condition. Next up is setting up a test environment to check out the functionality. Where are @S30Driver and @Zup when I need them?

Charles is sending him another......a lot easier to just use that one. A loose reaction disc won’t hurt anything if it just stays in the booster IMO.

I usually build my own motors, but Eiji built both of my Strokers. I wouldn’t trust anyone else. Getting ready to go head to head at Dinwiddie quarter mile track again this Spring with Eiji. Gonna see how the Stroker does in the sprint.

Nice photos! Just noticed you’re in Richmond a little south of Eiji. I grew up in southwest VA near Roanoke, now in Raleigh NC area. So, you got an engine or servicing from Eiji? Sent him pics of my car. He said he liked my Enkei92 wheels. From you pics I see his too.

Red77.....You made a very wise decision. You’ll get an amazing engine from Eiji and he will build it himself. He’ll check and double check every measurement and part and will send pictures throughout the process. It’ll be worth every penny you spend. Keep us updated with pics......congrats!

PM me an address. I will send it to you for free.

Buddy https://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/nova-scotia/man-with-budweiser-tattoo-on-eyebrow-suspect-in-theft-of-firefighter-s-car-1.5046774

Thanks, Jim. I know the power goes in thru the white connector to the blue line with the fuse. The red/blue wire looks to tie in to the instruments per the wiring diagram. I presume it is idle for bench testing? The radio is grounded thru the body, correct? I have a working OE antenna from a 260Z to check out the antenna switch.

Wow.....Sorry Jerry.....just seemed like the symptoms I had with a reaction disc. Pedal hard as a rock but had to stand on the pedal with both feet to stop.

Hi Dan, Here is the chrome pen set I ordered. I had heard about it previously and a buddy recently used one with very good results on his dash bezel. I'll post my results after I get it. Thanks, Jim https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074JJ1YMY/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Jim, very nice job refurbishing a beautiful example of an early radio. Could you tell me about the chrome pen you ordered, ie., source and performance? Thanks, and I really hope to see you and your car someday. Dan

Since this is the case I would rule out the reaction disc from the initial installation. Also in my case the missing reaction disc caused the opposite brake condition. My brakes became very touchy and want to grab with little pressure on the pedal. The normal modulation was gone. See what you can find. I do have another suspicion based on what you describe as well.

Got the Ron Tyler diff mount in the mail yesterday and put it in! Haven't driven the car yet tho. Next I want a new rear cross bar and switch the rubber isolater to an actual top mount

I've dealt with these folks for 'Continental'-brand cloth-braided coolant hose (full range of sizes available)... Bel-Metric - Tyngsboro, MA https://www.belmetric.com/braided-metric-hose-oem-c-14_138/?zenid=l8q6rc5k16gtctsfllf89onb23 Priced per meter (i.e. if you order 1.3 meters, you pay for 2 meters) The molded radiator and master-vac hoses are always going to be a challenge, unfortunately. They are available but, as Patcon notes, they are expen$ive (esp. the rad hoses). You might be able to fake the master-vac hoses by bending and fitting metal-tube inserts inside the rubber hose (my notes say that the fittings are 10mm OD, so a properly clamped 9mm hose should work, maybe with a bit of sealant for insurance).

And adjusting the hub position to help correct the early design's leading-diff/trailing-hub situation would have made the tire sit even further forward inside the wheel opening. I've heard it explained (source?) that the S30's differential was pushed forward late in the design cycle when Nissan's engineers became concerned over meeting the new US FMVSS requirement for rear impact. The explanation was that they wanted to move the differential further way from the front of the fuel tank to reduce the liklihood that it would puncture the tank when the rear of the car folded up. I don't think this was guess work. They must have observed a potential problem or else they wouldn't have taken such an unnatural design path. There was a lot of confusion and uncertainty within the industry over what form the actual FMVSS rear impact standard would take when made into law (impact speed and fixed vs. moving barrier were still being debated). I wonder if Nissan decided to take an extra-conservative route to begin with and then relaxed the design back to 'normal' when they felt more comfortable? It's all very curious. A lot of parts had to be changed, at enormous expense, and giving back the crash safety margin in the process. This would not have been done unless Nissan felt there was a major problem with offset design. And yet modern-day owners of Z's with the offset design never seem to complain about the expected issues (which are: 1) drivetrain resonance at cruising speed, and; 2) premature halfshaft U-joint wear).

I did not intend to imply it would affect anything. Just a plausible answer as to where they typically end up.

Once you take the plunger pressure off the disc, they sometimes just fall into the body of the booster. If you see it is not where it should be you might try pulling the booster off again shake it a bit and if you hear something bouncing around in there you can usually bounce it toward the opening and get it out.

Diseazd, thanks for the vote of confidence. Eiji is well respected in every forum, far and wide. It’s up to 3 months out, but worth the wait, I’m sure. ✔️

Friday I ordered a L28 from Eiji who owns Datsun Spirit, Inc. I had been shopping around for a couple of months and asked Facebook groups for thoughts. After lots of positive recommendations for DSI, I talked with Eiji by phone a couple of times. It was easy to gain confidence in their work. DSI ships all over the country and internationally. Good luck! Datsun Spirit, Inc. Engine Options

You should look at Rebello's site and Datsun spirit's site for specs. either one will make plenty of power. Rebello is closer to you on the West coast

You don’t have to disconnect the steel lines from the master cylinder to install the disc. Just take off the two nuts holding the m/c to the master vac and carefully pull it away from the master vac. Pull out the plunger/adjuster shaft. Super glue the disc to the back of the plunger/adjuster shaft and reinstall in reverse order.

@240260280 Maybe you could try hoovering a little, if you have time?

So i went back to the shop and did a little more work. There was a small leak in the mighty vac tube and one in the black line. I also found a check valve and clean it up and put it in line with the booster. If I clamp the mighty vac in the vise and work it fast I could get it to 15" of Hg. It would slowly bleed off at a rate about 3 times the FSM spec (.9" in 15 seconds). It would be curious to know if rebuilt boosters from other sources will hold the FSM spec. I suspect the old seal I used and the slight corrosion on the MC plunger are contributing to the bleed off. For now I will consider that a success. This was not the cleanest 7" booster I have. I may take another stab at it later but for now I'm moving on. @Captain Obvious You're up next...

I would also suspect reaction disc or bad/hard pads on the brakes. If you need a reaction disc and can't find one. I have one sitting on the bench right now.

Excellent. Keep coming to us with the easy issues. We like those. Don't forget to use copious amounts of anti-corrosion anti-seize on your new spindle pins when you slide them in for the final installation. And if you didn't already know.... The location of the notch for the lock pin is not in the center of the spindle pin. It's offset a little bit. (The pin is not symmetric). There is a correct front and back. Point is... If you haven't already done so, it's a lot easier to determine which is the correct installation direction when the parts are off the car and not all slathered with copious amounts of lube. Mark it with a sharpie or something now while everything is clean so you don't have to futz with it while it's all slippy.

Success...a "rat" file, some light lube and about 30 minutes of work and now the spindle pin passes right through by hand. And I think it was a combination of left over corrosion and at least a couple small burrs because a close inspection of the spindle pin after initially tapping it through with a rubber hammer did reveal a couple light scorch marks along its horizontal axis. But I couldn't see anything visually when looking through the hole with a light. Anyway...all is good now with this problem. On to the next...and thanks for all the good advice!

Just cuz I'm in the mood to stir up trouble, I have an observation about this diff getting moved to solve a rear end vibration or u-joint wear issue. The 510 IRS has it's half shafts in the supposed "bad" position with the wheel hubs behind the diff flanges by just about the same amount as the early Z's had. Ie, half shafts not 90 to diff. Nothing was ever done or said about vibration problems or u-joints prematurely wearing out in 510s (and later 610s). Me thinks there is more to the Z issue than has been revealed. I smell a Gosher style cover up.... Back to regular programming....

I know!!! Sugar them up and send them home. a little pay back mixed in with the fun is always good

They are a blast......and the best part is that you can give em back at the end of the day Charles!

I totally agree and I appreciate your effort in providing parts like this at Banzai. I also have to balance parts I need versus available cash to purchase them. Also being able to reproduce some of these thngs allows me to make hoses or parts for other projects, not just Z projects, but projects where these parts are not even available. It's a balancing act for me. A limited amount of money needs to be spread over the car. I need bumpers and don't want to try to make them. I also need hoses, but I "might" could make them if I have the raw material. The reproduction hoses actually cost more than the bumpers. When I need a windshield washer bag or a data tag, I would call you because it doesn't make sense to try to make one. Unfortunately these limitations is the world I live in

This should answer your questions about the bars under the dash..........

Finally traced a short/ground problem with my headlights. There was a nick in one of the 3 wires on the driver side headlight pigtail, under the plastic loom. I found it when removing both headlights to throughly clean the connectors and just happened to visually notice it.

That's true with the Kameari damper too. I clearanced the back of the fan blades by about 1mm to miss the damper. I couldn't space the fan forward because my fat radiator is in the way.

I stand corrected. It works fine on the Kameari damper :)

Remember Kammy's Red Hand of Power image? @kammy

Just the mention of Spindle Pins and I need a drink... Where’s my bottle of Bundy’s?

Well they fit great. Haven’t screwed them down as they are for a friend of mine and my existing holes doesent line up. I have a different hole pattern on my old covers (there were at least 2 or 3 different hole patterns for these lenses through the years). Looks and feels like a very good quality item.