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I believe one of the questions to determine if you're a Z-nut is: "Do you store parts under your bed?". With the corollary being: "No dear, I DID take a shower, I have no idea why you keep smelling gasoline".

Cody and I are also working on some support for the Xenon air dam I want to avoid this So I am missing the valance support on the front of the car. There were a few parts left, but it was pretty much gone. So we cleaned it back to the radiator support and started templating Cereal boxes make for great pattern material Cody hates body work but he likes to weld, so I got him to help me fab t It needs a little more dolly work and I plan on adding flanges down the lower edges similar to the original. It would have been nice to have made it all out of one piece but I don't have the tools or the skills to do that. I think if I had a shrinker/stretcher setup I might could have done it. A metal brake would have been nice to have too. I am working on another bracket that will be mounted to the back of the air dam that will act as a mate and have through bolts so the air dam can be removed. I have some 1/4" and 3/16's rod that is bent to match the air dam shape that will also be added to give some support and shape

This is the coolest sound check I've ever heard. He looks like a walking bag of cocaine.

Kats, About the Kameari 'Kyoka' bolts/studs for the S20 engine: This is not really any different to the upgraded bolts and studs offered for any other engine today. In fact, Kameari proudly state that they are made by ARP - probably the most trusted brand for this kind of item worldwide. ARP are almost a byword for quality and integrity, and they offer parts for our L-gata engines too. The advantage of such bolts and studs is that they are stronger for the same or similar torque settings, are often made from better materials than the OEM equipment due to advances in metallurgy, heat treatments and finishes, as well as retrospective re-engineering. Replacing factory bolts with ARP studs and nuts is very common these days and is certainly wiser than using old and/or untested parts. And when you can't see them inside the engine they are not going to be offensive to the eye. I think you could easily rebuild an S20 yourself, Kats. They are beautifully designed and engineered, and a pleasure to assemble. It's not one big job, it's just lots of small ones. You can do it! When I start to build S20 no.3 I'll let you know. I'll probably be needing some of those parts you've got there! But before that, I have to build an 'interesting' L24-based engine for the ex-Kuwashima san 240ZG. It's in the body shop being painted now.

And because I’m a focused individual... squirrel!.... where was I? Oh yeah, port matching the throttle body to the intake! A sharp blade to trace the wider opening on the throttle body This is a significant amount of extra air!! Then overlay the gasket on the intake manifold for tracing All that’s left is the grinding...!

Guilty. I have had a mint 240Z hatch in the baster bedroom closet behind my wife's clothes for a few years now. Just couldnt put it out in the shop for it to get rusty. Maybe I'll move some of her clothes out and put the Webers in there as well............

Said the Captain as everyone backed away and started whispering to each other while pointing to the anomaly.

Wow! I do NOT , nor have I ever have any Z parts under the bed. So there's an indication that youze guys have the affliction worse than I do!! I feel so good about myself!

Hi Alan , I am checking parts what I have ? (for my PLS30 project? ) but I don’t have skills and don’t have an experience to build an engine . I sometimes dream about doing it by myself under supervisor . To be honest, just looking at those interesting parts without assembling is the most fun and happiest moment for me . When I put the parts once , then I can’t see the most of them . Alan , or anyone please teach me , a bolt for securing a head and a block , Kameari -Engine Works sells “ Kyoka- type “ head bolt. Does it means more durable? More stiff ? I think it can be tighten much more higher torque than the one from Nissan original. But , I don’t think it is a good idea to tighten the bolts more than specifically directed in the service manual. So , why people want “ Kyoka- type “aftermarket bolts for the place which is specifically directed tightening torque? Here is the website Kameari Engine Works , http://www.kameariengineworks.co.jp/Catalogue-v3/catalogue-035-S20-NEW-20181203.pdf I missed Nissan stock head bolts , I am thinking to buy Kameari or wait for another Nissan original new bolts ( but I don’t know when it comes up next ! ) Kats Alan , let me know when you begin your the third S20 engine building!!

No. The torsion bars will not be re-used. I will keep the mounts on the hinges for them just in case, but I don’t plan on using them. Just didn’t feel right cutting them off.

Satin black looks awesome on these. Keeps them hidden behind the grill.

Indeed. What would have been the point for the factory engineers to bring an S20-engined car to a territory where there were no intention to sell and/or race it. I put it down to either a misunderstanding or mis-remembering something else. A lone S20 (race) engine cutaway was shown at some European car shows in the late 1960s as a general promotional tool, but no S20-equipped cars. North America? Closest proximity I could ever get was somewhat more southerly... In December 1970, SCCN works team drivers Haruhito Yanagida and Masami Kuwashima took a race-prepped 432-R over to Brazil to compete in two rounds of the 'Copa Brasil de Automobilisimo Internacional' race series at the Interlagos track in São Paulo: I've talked to them both about it, and it was an interesting story.

Surprised me as well, just wondering what the story was behind it all. Is there any reference in the Uemura book? He had feet on the ground at the time so probably has the most knowledge. Slowly going back through the archives here researching the cars, amazing what can be found, thanks everyone for the contributions over the years. Roo P.S. Love the Orange R

You guys are too funny! All my clean parts are inside except an F-54 block that's too heavy to get upstairs.

Oh OK... I was just kidding. I do have Z parts under the bed. Please don't shun me.

I believe both sides were always the same The older style had a lighter gauge spring and some scissors style Iinks. If they ever got difficult to close, when forced the links would fold up and destroy the hinge. I believe the spring acted as the hold open without an actual detent

Arrrgh! A twin to my 9/75! There are probably many pieces I could use. Do you have the carpet retainers for the drive and passenger side footwells? They hold the carpet against the firewall. I cold also use the speedo cable and hood release firewall grommets if they are in good shape. PM sent.

"By some accounts a Z432-R came over here and was crashed and written off". I would like to follow a reference to those "accounts". I haven't heard of that one. Reference?

Terrific, it seems like all of us have had to fab up something to keep those air dams from snow ploughing. How are you attaching the new support to the dam?

Gavin, nowadays, people want two seaters for Z cars , but at that time sales volume of 2/2 was a noticeable, I can’t say precisely now but when I am home I can introduce some magazines which have very interesting interviews with Nissan engineers. I remember something about 2/2 , they sold more than two seaters in Japan , like that . And interesting story about the roof line which I found in a magazine, the engineers were thinking about “ father “ and “ his son “ . Father pay for the car , his son of course wants to take the steering wheel. So , the engineers said “ there should be a respect for father . The best is same roof as two seater but , in that case father would feel uncomfortable. We took comfortable for the rear seat passenger, so the roof had to be like that “ . About the RHD parts catalog, I only have a December 1970 issued ?. Kats

Sneaking? No. Just like the band doing the sound check, there was a full camera crew there checking their gear, angles and spots too. There's lot of good film of Stevie Ray and it wasn't by chance.

According to my GRS30 engine bay ID plate that's correct. https://www.viczcar.com/forum/gallery/image/7430-img_20181103_181003jpg/ I agree, I think it could have been a great GT car. Speaking of 2/2's what is the perception of them in Japan? It seems many people turn their noses up at the extended roof line. Having owned and driven both I liked my 2+2. The shape isn't quite as beautiful, but it was still a fantastic car and I would say in some ways a better handling more stable car. I thought you might already have a copy, I have a hard copy and PDF (I sent you). It is very useful.

Hi Captain , I remember I learned “ don’t cry over spilled milk “ in junior high school! So I need to be calm down to avoid rushing into something “ not right “ for me . Or if I decide to go for a new world , I shall not look back where I used to be ... Hi Blue , your Chinese friends are saying that , we have same words in Japan !! So , we say “ don’t be a half way . If you stand up way tall , you won’t be hammered. If you can’t , just be nice like everyone.” Kats

Not an old Sign - but a new one in an old place. https://www.tireco.com/article/2018/03/28/history-post-ii-2-2-2-4-2-2-2-2-2-2-2-2-2-2-2/

^^^ this, and desiccant bags don't hurt. Don't ask how I know.

@inline6 I don't recall what car I pulled this from. The windshield has been sitting in my shed for over 6 years. More than likely from a 280Z, but have helped others dismantle other year chassis, and I always remarked "You gunna throw THAT away??" Looking at the pictures, there is no tinting, nor any etching from a Japanese company. I can get better pictures this weekend if desired. First dibs goes to you as the OP. Second dibs goes to @rturbo 930 I'm guessing I'm halfway between both of you, biggest expense besides time and gas will be getting a cardboard box large enough and cushion wrap so that it doesn't break during delivery. Yes, all dirt, dust and white paint along with the out-dated oil-change sticker are included at no charge.

I regret not buying that windshield when we discussed it in that thread, I was more worried about getting the car started. I’ve seen several Zs in junk yards over the past 6 months with windshields but assume they are probably not in the best condition. Will be looking closer next time. BTW that 75 Z is was successfully crushed and now in Z Valhalla. I called the yard last month and its steel was sent to China to make coat hangers, Good luck on your quest. If I come across one that is good I’ll let you know, There is a yard about 90 miles from me that has 4 or 5 unpicked over 280Z’s. I plan of going back next month with a parts list of things I need.

Summit does indeed list the Pilkington windshield (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pkc-400046793), though it has the blue strip and has been out of stock with a consistently pushed back availability date. I have an outstanding order that is supposed to be shipped on Dec 28, but it's already been moved back three times since September.

I bought a plastic storage container for mine and slid them under my bed for 4 or 5 years. Then sold them to the man above ^^^^^^^^.

Yeah, I suspect she would have leveraged that money alot!!! Could you come mow the grass, rake the leaves, clean the gutters, wax the cars, etc. and that wouldn't have reduced the debt at all... I doubt the car would have survived my showing out in high school as we as all the "altered state" driving we did.

In debt to Grandma or the opportunity to become the coolest kid in High School? That is a moral dilemma! At the local high school it's easy to tell the student parking lot from the teacher parking lot. No Dinos, but the better, newer, cars are in the student lot. Dennis

One more today, I have a pile of file of “ service Kai- Show “ it’s like a bulletin I just don’t know what is a suitable word for this . Some topic has many pages and some just a few pages . I found descriptions of a canister, and a label for emission device applied . My ZG still remains the label on the left rear quarter glass . The right one is for the emissions , it might be put in 1973 . When my ZG was rolled out from the factory in June 1972 , there was no device required. But in 1973 , new rule became active , my ZG was affected by the rule to have a lime green vacuum ball to cooperate with an ignition timing . But no need to have a canister. The middle one is the label for “ new car delivery inspection completed “ by a local Tokyo Nissan dealer. Kats

Hi guys, checking in with an update. I had Al at Sparks Performance in San Clemente take a look. He confirmed our compression test results, and used the oil in the cylinder trick to rule out ring issues. He pulled the valve cover and completed a valve adjustment. The PO had the clearances way too tight. The adjustment helped the numbers considerably... Al's first test / after valve adjustment 118 / 127 123 / 145 180 / 195 165 / 185 148 / 175 170 / 193 The car performs much better now, including holding its idle without issue. Still, I'll need to have the head pulled and reworked to solve the issues in 1 & 2. As it is driving much better and I'm not longing for a repair bill, I think I'll hold off on head work and cam replacement for a little while.

I thought the two-part isocyanate activated paints were "urethanes" and different than "epoxy". My (admittedly shallow) understanding is that epoxy paints (while they are also two-part mixes) were different and not nearly as dangerous because they didn't contain isocyanates like the urethanes did. I mean, you don't want to breathe a bunch of any of them but I thought the isocyanates are the real nasty shite that can cause the allergic reaction (asthma).

I don't know Carl personally but if he sits at a chair that has armrests and writes about Z cars then yes that would make him an "armchair expert". From what I can see reading posts on this forum and his site zhome.com he is very passionate about the cars. He has spent many hours researching them and presenting the information for people to freely read and share. I'm thankful people like Carl are around and freely share their knowledge. I also appreciate people answering my questions here, you are all a lot more knowledgeable about the subject than I am.

That would go over very well in my neck of the woods too Wayne. We have nothing, not even Uber. The local dicks won't allow sober driver pick up option. We don't even have taxi service here just city owned "dial a ride" mini buses for the really poor folks to get groceries. I've thought about calling and asking if they'd carry me to the liquor store! Maybe something I could do one day? I'd love to have a garage to let people use for minor wrenching. I could sell beer and nachos. Toilet charge also.

Hey jim, I ran into the same problem with the spalling rockers. On my fresh rebello engine, I made the mistake of using the wrong kind of oil. Just some off the shelf high mileage semi synthetic (with extra zinc). On the first go around, my cam survived, but the rockers didn't. I replaced all 12 rockers with nissan ones, and ran joe gibbs hot rod motor oil with lucas zinc additive and I had no issues. So the next summer, I used Amsoil ZROD oil. Big mistake, this time the spalling occurred on my camshaft and some on my rockers. I ended up replacing both camshaft and rockers. I think with our engines, you might need some extra zinc especially if the engine has a bigger cam. I know that this information is irrelevant now that you have re-grinds, the cheapest OEM rockers can be obtained from Kameari engine works from japan. Yup, japan! I got a set of 12 for $450 Canadian shipped to my door. Cheaper than local dealers and courtesy parts.