Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,086 topics in this forum
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So my girlfriend owns a 810 and since its essentially a L24 from a 240z I assume this temperature gauge sensor works (picture below). Although it says 1970-1983 in the description so still skeptical. Does anyone know if this sensor will work? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last reply by dylancorrea1, -
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- 3 followers
- 10 replies
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Background: 1970z-L28F54 engine- Starter sometimes would not crank, other times it would, so i figured that the starter was bad. Since its probably over 20+ years old minimum, I figured the Z could use a new starter, so I bought a new High Torque starter and installed. Then tested it. It did the same thing, (so I probably wasted the money, but at least I know that component is new) and THEN I NOTICED that whenever it would not start, the turn signals would not make any sound (flasher sounds) and the signals would not work. The funny (not really funny) thing is that IF i test it and crank it every 5 minutes for a half hour, some of the times it will crank, the…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 4 followers
- 4 replies
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I am bringing by 1971 240 back and want to replace the seats with some leather more comfortable seats that fit and look like they belong. The only company recommended so far was corbeau. If anyone has gone thru this process I would like to hear your feedback.
Last reply by dutchzcarguy, -
- 2 followers
- 3 replies
- 687 views
Hey all: Anyone know why these two bolts won't go in? The seem to bottom out on something soft approx the depth of where whet the timing cover meets the block the other bolts are fine. What am I missing? (HELP!)
Last reply by Jughead, -
- 1 follower
- 9 replies
- 1.4k views
Hello fellow z owners. I hope I can get some insight to a question I have. I pulled my 240z gas tank to inspect the internals and clean it a little. When I pulled the rubber hose off the fuel feed line, I noticed some movement in the metal feed line on the tank. Is this normal and supposed to slightly swivel? The return line does not move in the same manner. IMG_7244.MOV
Last reply by cgsheen1, -
- 5 followers
- 14 replies
- 785 views
When I recently built up the new motor which now has 300 miles and running well. I somehow missed the plug in the oil filter boss which normally has the spring loaded bypass valve. I changed the breakin oil / filter the other day and noticed it. I must be getting older.... I know it is important should the flow become blocked thru the filter to not let the motor starve for oil. My question is, can I safely drill out what appears to be a plug,then pull it out with something, mabe use a magnet and vacuum to not let any metal chips get ingested and replace it with a new bypass valve? Its a F54 block that was originally set up for a turbo if that makes any differ…
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
- 4 followers
- 36 replies
- 3.4k views
Here are some pics of two holes on the bottom of what I refer to is the frame rail. Please school me if I’m referring to the wrong area. Both are on the left side in the middle of the rail. You’ll notice the steel horizontal plate between the two areas which will give you an idea of the location. The sides of the rail are solid along with the rest of the frame rail. Suggestions please. I have the transmission and exhaust removed so now would be a good time to fix this problem. The rest of the undercarriage from what I can see is in good shape. This is a 280Z . Multiple pictures of the same two locations. Larger diameter hole is 5” long. The other 4”
Last reply by Patcon, -
- 2 followers
- 5 replies
- 763 views
Tough one here has me scratching my head. As always, thanks in advance to the group for helping think through the issues. Full tune-up and carb balance completed. Based on my cam, the car likes to sit at idle at 900-1000 RPM. Holds this idle while in the garage. After driving for a bit, starts to lose idle at stop lights. Will drop down to 600-700 RPM, which is rough given how lumpy my cam is. Maintains idle in the range, does not fall further or stall. No other loss of power or performance issues. Plugs, wires, etc. in good shape. Any ideas?
Last reply by AK260, -
- 5 followers
- 13 replies
- 2k views
Hi guys, I noticed yesterday a periodic gasoline (not exhaust) smell in the cabin while driving with the windows down. With the windows up, the smell disappears. I opened the hood while the car was running and didn't smell any gasoline then got under the car near the fuel pump and didn't smell it there either. I thought it could be the vapor tank hoses but if that was the case, I'd smell it in the cabin all the time I'd think. I can only smell it while driving with the windows down. Any ideas? EDIT: I started it and sniffed all over the engine bay and it seems to be coming from the passenger side firewall area (near the battery). I'm …
Last reply by chaseincats, -
- 2 followers
- 2 replies
- 889 views
I know questions regarding Z antenna have been asked before but I've not seen any answers for my problem yet. My antenna motor works fine but the mast wouldn't work due to a broken mast line. I located similar sized mono filament trimmer line and tried replacing the original plastic/nylon cable. The issue is reconnecting the top antenna portion to the new cable. I've tried recreating the original connection (a round metal collar) but noting I've tried clamps well enough to not come loose. Also, the diameter has to be small enough to be pulled into the top portion of the antenna. I'd hate to toss an otherwise good unit and buy a non original replacement but I can't…
Last reply by LongliveZED, -
- 1 follower
- 7 replies
- 1.1k views
Have a 9/70 240Z with a blown fuse link and no power at red-white at ignition. This happened last fall before car storage, so I have researched over the winter and have worked on the problem for many days. Test 1: Everything still connected, except fuse link. Ran jumper from fuse link connection to solenoid while key turned to start. Had spark when jumper wire touched solenoid. Solenoid appeared to engage a little. Same test/result we had last October. Test 2: Everything still connected, except fuse link. Ran jumper from solenoid to positive battery terminal, but had no response. Test 3: Same as #2, but disconnected positive battery connection f…
Last reply by ZNate, -
- 4 followers
- 12 replies
- 844 views
Rookie mechanic looking for a pro tip. Got the brass shifter bushing kit from MSA (sucks that you have to file material off to make them fit) and can’t get the pin back in. Many attempts at this blind process. Any ideas on how I can line up the shifter fork holes and holes in the bushings?
Last reply by Geoff's 240z,
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