Jump to content

Jughead

Members
  • Content Count

    65
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Jughead last won the day on August 31

Jughead had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

17 Good

1 Follower

About Jughead

  • Rank
    Active Member

Contact

  • Map Location
    98109
  • Occupation
    Management

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    240z
  • About my Cars
    Bought a ‘72 Z in April, 2018. It hadn't run for 10 years., but does now. Just finished renewing the brake system. Currently assessing and making a project plan. Thanks for all your advice so far!

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Do you mean the timing chain at the cam sprocket?
  2. Which notch on the pulley should I align the pointer to? I have a 72 stock 240Z. It came with Emission Control, but I removed the air pump long ago and it's run fine since - until I changed the points, plugs, cap, rotor & condensor! ? According the Haynes, static ignition timing should be 10 degrees @ 550 RPM. Does that mean I use the 3rd notch from the left, since they're 5 degrees apart? I'm pretty sure it's the original distributor. I'm using a timing light (and yes - it's connected to the #1 wire.) I really appreciate help, guys!! Jughead
  3. Hi all, I need clarification on setting the timing on my '72 240 Z correctly. I've studied the available manuals, but am still unclear. I have changed plugs, wires, caps & rotor, points and condensor. I am using a strobe light to align the triangular pointer to the notch on the pulley. I've chosen the 2nd notch from the left - with the notches on top, looking from the front of the car. I chose this notch because the Haynes manual says that the left-most notch is TDC, and that each notch to the right of it is a 5 degrees advancement. I've marked the pointer and notch with whiteout for visibility. I have verified that I'm on the #1 compression stroke by by making sure the rotor is coming up on the correct position in the distributor. However, I cannot get the pointer to align with the notch! When I turn the distributor body to align the pointer & notch, I can get them about an inch part, and that's by turning the distributor all the way to where the marking on the disti body shows all the way retarded. Obviously, I'm missing something! Any suggestions? I'll report back with results...Thanks!!!
  4. Update: Found a broken female spade connector om wire to resistor. Renewed it and now I have voltage to resistor....and the car runs nicely...THANKS!!!
  5. @SteveJ: Thanks for the advice. I measured the resistor at both sides No current. So I swapped the module in the back of the switch with a "new" module from an old ignition switch that came in a box with the car. Same result as originally described - no voltage at either resistor terminal and same (non) starting symptoms. What would you try next? A new module? Thanks!
  6. @K Koehn: Did you resolve this issue? I'm having the same issue with a '72 Z running carburators. Mine starts for a second then stops. I"m getting no spark when I turn with a remote starter, BUT when I start with key, and hold the key on the START position it runs. Ignition switch issue? How would I diagnose this?
  7. (1972 240z) Hi all, I removed my distributor for inspection and cleaning. I did not disassemble beyond removing cap rotor and points. My question. What is the procedure for reinstalling? How do I make sure that the firing cylinder is synchronized with the cap/rotor? How do I ensure that I'm not installing the distributor 180 degrees off? Do I need to make sure that the cylinder is on the Compression stroke? If so, what's the best practice for doing so? Detailed procedures much appreciated. I'll report back with results and credit to contributors....Thanks!!!! Jughead
  8. Update: Ended up just disconnecting the buzzer. It was easy. It's located under radio - driver's side. Follow the buzzing sound under dash, then feel for it. It vibrates. I then accessed via the fuse door. I removed 2 screws from fuse box to move it out of way. Once done, you can pretty easily "pull the plug" on the buzzer (look for green and black wire) . The red warning light still lights, but it's fine. Some day I'll figure out the root cause of the original problem and plug 'er back in. Until then, no annoying buzzer!
  9. Hi All, ('72 240Z) My seat belt buzzer won't sop buzzing with ignition on and only the driver on board. It does not buzz when in neutral. Where is the problem likely occurring? What should I check, and in what order? Could the issue be under the passenger seat? Thanks!
  10. Update: I turned the linkage 180 degrees where it connects to the motor "drive shaft". All good now. (Duh!) Thanks all!
  11. Hi all, I've reinstalled my wiper motor & linkage after cleaning & rust proofing the area under the cowel on my '72 240Z. But now my wipers are turning backwards! When I turn them on, they begin with a counter-clockwise rotation (when view from the front bumper). They want to wipe the cowel. Has anyone run into this? I figure that I either assembled the linkage in correctly, or switched the polarity somehow... huh. Any other hypotheses, sage advice? Thanks as always!
  12. It's a street car/driver. So OEM bushings? Anything else I'll run into but forgot to ask? Thanks all - luv you guys!
  13. Hi I have a old pair of Minilites that I'd like to refurbish. They're dull and corroded. What are my options? Pros & Cons? Someone told me I should paint them...Really?!?! Can't I polish? Here are some pics...Please lemmee know your thought y'all! Thanks! Jughead
  14. Zedheads, Trying to wrap my mind around the next phase of my project which is a suspension/steering rebuild. Lot's of old, disintegrating bushings. Not sure where to start/how to approach, so figured I'd reach out for advice. Specifically: Both front and back ends need TLC. Does it matter which end I start with? Which is easier? ? What are the biggest "gotchas"? What's gonna make me want to cry? What else should I do while in there? (diff mounts, engine mounts, wheel bearings, etc.) What are the pros/cons of using OEM versus Poly bushings? Any product recommendations What are the best struts to use? For the front end, is it worth it to drop the whole suspension assembly (cross members)? If so, how does one support the engine? Same question for reinstall. For the rear end... ...is it really best practice to BURN the moustache bushings out, rather than pressing them out? ...is it worth it to drop the whole assembly (diff, drive shafts) as one? Same question for reinstall. ...what's the best mounting option for the front diff Any other insight, advice, tips, warnings, heads-ups, best practices mush approeciated!
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.