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About Jughead

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  • Member ID: 32927

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Jughead last won the day on August 31 2020

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  • About my Cars
    Bought a ‘72 Z in April, 2018. It hadn't run for 10 years., but does now. Just finished renewing the brake system. Currently assessing and making a project plan. Thanks for all your advice so far!

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  1. @mayolivesThanks! The oil pan gasket got jostled a bit on my second attempt at installing the front cover. (I broke a cover bolt the first attempt.) So far no leaking, but I'll probably replace the pan gasket at some point anyway. Right now I'm working on getting my choke cables adjusted... Here's an engin pic from the other side (couldn't help myself).
  2. Hi all, Does anyone have good step-by-step instructions for adjusting the Choke Cables on SUs? I'm having a hard time finding an adjustment wherein a) the Nozzle comes down with Choke on, and b) the idle is reasonable (~ 900) with choke off and engine warm. Thanks!!
  3. Here's an update on my Z, in case anyone's interested: To summarize, I chased a backfire/"frontfire" condition by replacing plugs, wires, distributor, timing chain, coil, points, ballast resistor intake exhaust manifold gaskets, head gasket, carbs. I brought the head into AutoSport (Seattle) for a valve job & had the head rebuilt and the intake & exhaust manifolds refreshed. I even painted the engine block while I was at it. The problem ended up being (drum roll...) 2 plug wires swapped at the rotor cap! Duh. (I give 99% of the blame to myself and 1% to the Haynes manual!) Anyway, the engine looks and runs great now, and although I'm thoroughly embarrassed, I'm also extremely happy to have the Z on the road! Thanks to everyone who pitched in to help, and EXTRA SPECIAL THANKS to Steve @ Z Therapy. (What a great guy!) Along the way I had a lot of fun and learned a ton. Now onto to the suspension...!
  4. Hi all, Can anyone identify the signature on these SU Carburetors? They're on a pair I just purchased on ebay, and am preparing to for installation. The first name appears to be "Landa". The last name starts with an "A". Ringing any bells? (Just curious...) Thanks, JH
  5. Thanks @Zed Head Update: I was able to push the 12mm bolt thru what I believe was gasket sealant. For the upper 10mm, I had an extra bolt that I ground to a point. That one pushed right thru the sealant too. All's well in Seattle again. Thanks much as always for the support! JH
  6. Hey all: Anyone know why these two bolts won't go in? The seem to bottom out on something soft approx the depth of where whet the timing cover meets the block the other bolts are fine. What am I missing? (HELP!)
  7. Update: Waiting for parts to complete timing chain. In the meantime, Questions for the experts: 1) The slot in the oil pump where the disti/oil pump drive shaft fits looks (to me) to be a rather wide gap. It seems to be causing uneven wear on the the blade of the shaft. I have a new shaft. Should I also replace my oil pump? 2) My crank shaft key seems to be a little beat up (see pic). I think it’s OK, but what ‘s the rule of thumb for know whether it needs replacing? (I could see this potential causing a timing issue if worn…) 3) Timing seems straight forward. Any “gothchas” I should be aware of that aren’t in the manuals? a. Both shaft keys up b. Bright chain links aligned to time marks on right side of sprockets c. I’m replacing chain, guides and tensioner. Sprockets look fine. d. Disti shaft blade @ 11:25, small side to front 4) Anything else I’m forgetting?
  8. Update: Timing cover removed and awaiting kit. Anybody know how to diagnose a chain tensioner? What else should I be on the lookout for in scouting for issues related to loose chain or bad liming? @Patcon: Interesting theory, about low oil pressure. I get good reading on the dashboard gauge. Is low oil pressure a known or common cause of loose chains?
  9. Hi all. Since my last post, I have done the following: 1) Installed a replacement cam “oil sprayer tube” that I got from Yoes Racing heads (See picture below) 2) Installed the new old stock (NOS) distributor shown in my previous posting. 3) Set the points gap. Reconnected the ballast resistor and put the 1.0 Ohm coil back in. 4) Started the engine & adjusted the timing. Result: It started quickly and ran about the same as described above, BUT… As we were adjusting the carb mixture, the engine started to sporadically shake, with a corresponding metal-on-metal “clunking” sound - similar to the sound a carb piston makes when lifted and dropped in the carb body without the damper rod in. We shut the engine down to check under the valve cover and make sure cam oil bar was OK, which it was. Then, using a remote starter switch we turned the engine over in short “bumps” to watch the valves and cam operate, and to locate the “clunking” sound. We found the “clunking” sound to be coming from the timing chain slapping against the timing chain guides/timing cover as the engine rotation come to a stop. Depending on where the rotation ends up after bumping the starter, the chain can be very tight, or pretty loose. Is this right? Or should the chain tension be constant - no matter the position of the cam/crank? The clunking sound is pretty noticeable, but it might’ve been there the whole time and I just never noticed it. Don't know, but now I'm wondering if this is what was causing the tuning issues described above... Thoughts?
  10. Here's a better picture of showing the model number. Also below is a picture form my Haynes manual where it's referenced. Good to go? My only concern is that it's for a car "with emission control systems" and I've removed most of my emission control components (air pump, non-return valve & flame trap). I'll triple-check for air leaks (again) around these components, but other than that, any issues with running this distributor? 'll
  11. Gents, I'll check all those connections out this weekend. (I won't be able to test this weekend though, because I'm waiting for a cam oil tube from Yoes Racing. In the meantime, here's a distributor I bought on ebay (see pics) . It came from Kuwait(!). My plan is to swap it with the old distributor as-is - with the points, so I have some more questions: 1: What do I need to do under the hood in order to revert back to points from a Pertronix set up, other than a) Reconnecting the Ballast resister and b) Reinstalling the condensor on the coil bracket? Question 2: Should I leave the 3.0 ohm flame thrower in or re-install a 1.0 ohm flame thrower that I have? (I'm guessing the latter.) Question 3: Is there good wiring diagram anywhere that would help in this process? (I have a Haynes and the FSM.) Question 4: What am I NOT asking that will get me in trouble?! 🙂 Gracias, Amigos.
  12. Will do & thanks Terrapin! 😉
  13. BTW: Is the that little (~ 3" braided) wire the only thing that grounds the points? Where (on the distributor) would you attached a secondary ground? Thanks!
  14. @Zed Head: Thanks - I'll do it. Is there a comprehensive list of grounds to check for a '72? I'll definitely check out those you called out above .
  15. @Zed Head /All: Here's my complete history with this car so far... First of all, about me: I’m no “expert” mechanic, but I’ve done many repairs over the years, including replacing a tranny & a cylinder head, starters, suspensions, etc. – simple stuff mostly though. I bought my Z car about 2.5 years ago. The previous owner told me that he & his mechanic “could never get the carburetors adjusted right”. (Hmmm). It had been under a tarp and not driven for at least 10 years prior to my purchase. Most of my time with the car has been spent doing body work (in all the usual places). Last summer, after changing all the fluids and filters, I started her up and had a couple weekends with the car running awesome. It was great! Initially, there was some crap in the fuel lines, but that cleared up after a couple fuel filters. I put 50-100 miles on it, but then it started to run poorly (ran rough, low power - thought it was running out of gas.) It turned out that one of the chokes was stuck down, so I cleaned it and it ran great for another 50 or so miles. Then I had similar problems with the other choke which I fixed as well. Soon after that though, I had it running smoothly in my driveway, and as I was looking looking down at the exhaust, it suddenly just stopped running. Dead. Turned over, but wouldn’t start. I checked the chokes – they looked fine. So, just to get it started, I put in new points, plugs, condenser & coil. Wouldn’t start So I rebuilt the carbs – very carefully - using the Z therapy videos and LOTS of coaching from Steve Epperly at Z Therapy. I’m 99% confident that they’re rebuilt & set up correctly. I’m on the list for rebuilt carbs, but Steve’s skeptical that carbs are the issue. (HUGE shout out to Steve by the way!) Last year around Christmas time, it was getting too cold to work on it, so I brought it into the local shop. They were trying to diagnose it, when I got a Pertronix system for Christmas. They suggested they install it to see what would happen. They installed it, and got it to start, but it’s had the symptoms described above ever since... A couple of other potentially interesting details: 1) When I changed the points, the distributor was pretty dirty, so I pulled it to clean it and bench-install the points. The distributor slipped into a shallow tub of EvapoRust and was partially submerged overnight. I blew it out with air, and it seem to spin ok, so I forgot about it. I haven't taken it apart yet... 2) At one point I replaced the ignition switch with an old, used one that came with the car. I can’t remember exactly why I did that, but as I recall, I was not getting enough voltage to the coil, so I tried it. (This was around the time of, but prior to, replacing the ignition parts.) It ran fine for a while after I swapped out the ignition switch, but I’ve wondered if this might be part of the problem… 3) Based on many conversations with Steve Epperly, he recommends swapping the distributor with one with points as a test, which I’m currently trying to source. So, that’s my story. Other than swapping the distributor and rechecking the manifold gaskets, any thoughts? I WILL figure this out, but I want to do it while I'm young enough to drive it! I’ll take all the help I can get…Thanks Y'all!
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