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Jughead last won the day on August 31 2020

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About Jughead

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  • Zcars Owned
  • About my Cars
    Bought a ‘72 Z in April, 2018. It hadn't run for 10 years., but does now. Just finished renewing the brake system. Currently assessing and making a project plan. Thanks for all your advice so far!

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  1. Thanks Steve. I have the FSM. I couldn't find the Condenser in the diagram(!). I think I had the condenser going to the negative side! Would that cause the spark to be lighter than expected? (The coil's new).
  2. Help!! I replaced the coil and ballast resister in my 1972 240Z, and suspect I may have the wiring wrong. (ugh) 1) Can anyone verify my understanding of the wiring in my coil/condenser/ballast resister area? Please see my schematic below and let me know if it looks correct. If not, what do I have wrong? 2) Where does the wire from the coil condenser connect to? 3) There are 2 Black & White wires (1 to the coil; 1 to the resister). How do I verify which is which? Thank You! Jughead
  3. Do you mean the timing chain at the cam sprocket?
  4. Which notch on the pulley should I align the pointer to? I have a 72 stock 240Z. It came with Emission Control, but I removed the air pump long ago and it's run fine since - until I changed the points, plugs, cap, rotor & condensor! ? According the Haynes, static ignition timing should be 10 degrees @ 550 RPM. Does that mean I use the 3rd notch from the left, since they're 5 degrees apart? I'm pretty sure it's the original distributor. I'm using a timing light (and yes - it's connected to the #1 wire.) I really appreciate help, guys!! Jughead
  5. Hi all, I need clarification on setting the timing on my '72 240 Z correctly. I've studied the available manuals, but am still unclear. I have changed plugs, wires, caps & rotor, points and condensor. I am using a strobe light to align the triangular pointer to the notch on the pulley. I've chosen the 2nd notch from the left - with the notches on top, looking from the front of the car. I chose this notch because the Haynes manual says that the left-most notch is TDC, and that each notch to the right of it is a 5 degrees advancement. I've marked the pointer and notch with whiteout for visibility. I have verified that I'm on the #1 compression stroke by by making sure the rotor is coming up on the correct position in the distributor. However, I cannot get the pointer to align with the notch! When I turn the distributor body to align the pointer & notch, I can get them about an inch part, and that's by turning the distributor all the way to where the marking on the disti body shows all the way retarded. Obviously, I'm missing something! Any suggestions? I'll report back with results...Thanks!!!
  6. Update: Found a broken female spade connector om wire to resistor. Renewed it and now I have voltage to resistor....and the car runs nicely...THANKS!!!
  7. @SteveJ: Thanks for the advice. I measured the resistor at both sides No current. So I swapped the module in the back of the switch with a "new" module from an old ignition switch that came in a box with the car. Same result as originally described - no voltage at either resistor terminal and same (non) starting symptoms. What would you try next? A new module? Thanks!
  8. @K Koehn: Did you resolve this issue? I'm having the same issue with a '72 Z running carburators. Mine starts for a second then stops. I"m getting no spark when I turn with a remote starter, BUT when I start with key, and hold the key on the START position it runs. Ignition switch issue? How would I diagnose this?
  9. (1972 240z) Hi all, I removed my distributor for inspection and cleaning. I did not disassemble beyond removing cap rotor and points. My question. What is the procedure for reinstalling? How do I make sure that the firing cylinder is synchronized with the cap/rotor? How do I ensure that I'm not installing the distributor 180 degrees off? Do I need to make sure that the cylinder is on the Compression stroke? If so, what's the best practice for doing so? Detailed procedures much appreciated. I'll report back with results and credit to contributors....Thanks!!!! Jughead
  10. Update: Ended up just disconnecting the buzzer. It was easy. It's located under radio - driver's side. Follow the buzzing sound under dash, then feel for it. It vibrates. I then accessed via the fuse door. I removed 2 screws from fuse box to move it out of way. Once done, you can pretty easily "pull the plug" on the buzzer (look for green and black wire) . The red warning light still lights, but it's fine. Some day I'll figure out the root cause of the original problem and plug 'er back in. Until then, no annoying buzzer!
  11. Hi All, ('72 240Z) My seat belt buzzer won't sop buzzing with ignition on and only the driver on board. It does not buzz when in neutral. Where is the problem likely occurring? What should I check, and in what order? Could the issue be under the passenger seat? Thanks!
  12. Update: I turned the linkage 180 degrees where it connects to the motor "drive shaft". All good now. (Duh!) Thanks all!
  13. Hi all, I've reinstalled my wiper motor & linkage after cleaning & rust proofing the area under the cowel on my '72 240Z. But now my wipers are turning backwards! When I turn them on, they begin with a counter-clockwise rotation (when view from the front bumper). They want to wipe the cowel. Has anyone run into this? I figure that I either assembled the linkage in correctly, or switched the polarity somehow... huh. Any other hypotheses, sage advice? Thanks as always!
  14. It's a street car/driver. So OEM bushings? Anything else I'll run into but forgot to ask? Thanks all - luv you guys!
  15. Hi I have a old pair of Minilites that I'd like to refurbish. They're dull and corroded. What are my options? Pros & Cons? Someone told me I should paint them...Really?!?! Can't I polish? Here are some pics...Please lemmee know your thought y'all! Thanks! Jughead
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