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Jughead last won the day on August 31 2020

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About Jughead

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  • About my Cars
    Bought a ‘72 Z in April, 2018. It hadn't run for 10 years., but does now. Just finished renewing the brake system. Currently assessing and making a project plan. Thanks for all your advice so far!

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  1. Hi all. Since my last post, I have done the following: 1) Installed a replacement cam “oil sprayer tube” that I got from Yoes Racing heads (See picture below) 2) Installed the new old stock (NOS) distributor shown in my previous posting. 3) Set the points gap. Reconnected the ballast resistor and put the 1.0 Ohm coil back in. 4) Started the engine & adjusted the timing. Result: It started quickly and ran about the same as described above, BUT… As we were adjusting the carb mixture, the engine started to sporadically shake, with a corre
  2. Here's a better picture of showing the model number. Also below is a picture form my Haynes manual where it's referenced. Good to go? My only concern is that it's for a car "with emission control systems" and I've removed most of my emission control components (air pump, non-return valve & flame trap). I'll triple-check for air leaks (again) around these components, but other than that, any issues with running this distributor? 'll
  3. Gents, I'll check all those connections out this weekend. (I won't be able to test this weekend though, because I'm waiting for a cam oil tube from Yoes Racing. In the meantime, here's a distributor I bought on ebay (see pics) . It came from Kuwait(!). My plan is to swap it with the old distributor as-is - with the points, so I have some more questions: 1: What do I need to do under the hood in order to revert back to points from a Pertronix set up, other than a) Reconnecting the Ballast resister and b) Reinstalling the condensor on the coil bracket? Question 2: Should I
  4. Will do & thanks Terrapin! 😉
  5. BTW: Is the that little (~ 3" braided) wire the only thing that grounds the points? Where (on the distributor) would you attached a secondary ground? Thanks!
  6. @Zed Head: Thanks - I'll do it. Is there a comprehensive list of grounds to check for a '72? I'll definitely check out those you called out above .
  7. @Zed Head /All: Here's my complete history with this car so far... First of all, about me: I’m no “expert” mechanic, but I’ve done many repairs over the years, including replacing a tranny & a cylinder head, starters, suspensions, etc. – simple stuff mostly though. I bought my Z car about 2.5 years ago. The previous owner told me that he & his mechanic “could never get the carburetors adjusted right”. (Hmmm). It had been under a tarp and not driven for at least 10 years prior to my purchase. Most of my time with the car has been spent doing body work (in all the
  8. Zedhead: Does this apply to a '72 240Z? Do I even have an AFM?
  9. Gentlemen, Here's the latest update: 1) I redid the compression test using with better tester and throttles open. The readings look good (to me): 1=165 2=160 3= 174 4=170 5= 160 6=165 2) I removed valve cover again to recheck cam sprocket position @ TDC on compression stroke. Please see new pics below, and give me a sanity check on the following: a. The notch on the sprocket is directly below the groove, on the camshaft locating plate. (This is factory setting, per Haynes). b. The distributor/oil pump shaft “tongue” seems to be
  10. @240260280z: Can you clarify something for me? In the picture below (it's also in your September 22, 2012 posting above), are the numbers running clockwise (1, 5, 2, 4, 3, 6) the cylinder firing order? I ask because the Haynes manual shows 2 diagrams that both show the order as being 1, 5, 3, 6, 2 4. (Haynes pages 73 & 74.). I'm working on setting up my ignition, so very curious about this! Thanks!!
  11. I need to redo test - forgot to open throttle. What does "choke open" mean? Full choke? I wonder why that would make a difference... I'll update compresion test results tonight. @Zed Head's is a good question: Should the carb pistons be lifted/roved for the compression test?
  12. Update: 1) Yesterday I bypassed the ballast resistor. (I disconnected the wire from one resistor terminal, and connected it to the other terminal along with the other wire.) It helped a little. I set mixture with lift pin method again & test drove. It still backfired out of exhaust, but was better. So I adjusted with Colortune, and as soon as I left the driveway, it “front-fired” out of carbs right away. (Same ol’ same ol’...) 2) Then, I took the plugs out, cleaned them (once again) and watched them all spark. They were all pretty much the same. The color is "white-ish
  13. Update: 1) Today I bypassed the ballast resistor. (I disconnected the wire from one terminal resistor and connected it to the other terminal along with the other wire.) It helped a little. I set mixture with lift pin method. It still backfired out of exhaust, but was better. Then I adjusted with Colortune, and it “front-fired” out of carbs right away. Same ol’ same ol’ 2) Then I took the plugs out, cleaned them (once again) and looked at the sparks. They were all pretty much the same. The color is "white-ish blue" – almost purple. I really had to look hard to see blue. No
  14. I got the Pertronix set up from Motor Sport for Christmas (2.5 months ago), so whatever Motorsport was selling then, that's what I have. I chose the 3.0 Ohm flame thrower coil with it, and I just realized/remembered that the 3.0 Ohm coil has a built in resistor. The shop that installed it to left the Ballast resistor installed, so maybe that's the issue...? Regarding the experience: It starts with a bit of effort with full choke. Once it gets warm, it runs without any choke. I start the mixture nuts at 3 turns, and adjust using piston-lifter pin method and/or Colortune. It needs to
  15. Here are my answers to @madkawquestions: Q: When you checked the mark on the cam sprocket at TDC - was the #1 mark on the sprocket where it should be ? A: I didn’t check, but I will. Where should it be? Q: Sure you have the needle jets seated correctly?. A: I think so. I set up per the ZT video, hear good “thunk” sound from the piston drops.when I remove the damper pistons Q: Verified good strong spark from the plugs ? A: What’s the best way to do this? Q: Verified no vacuum leaks ? Taken a vacuum reading? A: Not yet. Where’s the best place to get a readin
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