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Jughead last won the day on August 31 2020

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About Jughead

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  • Zcars Owned
  • About my Cars
    Bought a ‘72 Z in April, 2018. It hadn't run for 10 years., but does now. Just finished renewing the brake system. Currently assessing and making a project plan. Thanks for all your advice so far!

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  1. Hi all, Can anyone identify the signature on these SU Carburetors? They're on a pair I just purchased on ebay, and am preparing to for installation. The first name appears to be "Landa". The last name starts with an "A". Ringing any bells? (Just curious...) Thanks, JH
  2. Thanks @Zed Head Update: I was able to push the 12mm bolt thru what I believe was gasket sealant. For the upper 10mm, I had an extra bolt that I ground to a point. That one pushed right thru the sealant too. All's well in Seattle again. Thanks much as always for the support! JH
  3. Hey all: Anyone know why these two bolts won't go in? The seem to bottom out on something soft approx the depth of where whet the timing cover meets the block the other bolts are fine. What am I missing? (HELP!)
  4. Update: Waiting for parts to complete timing chain. In the meantime, Questions for the experts: 1) The slot in the oil pump where the disti/oil pump drive shaft fits looks (to me) to be a rather wide gap. It seems to be causing uneven wear on the the blade of the shaft. I have a new shaft. Should I also replace my oil pump? 2) My crank shaft key seems to be a little beat up (see pic). I think it’s OK, but what ‘s the rule of thumb for know whether it needs replacing? (I could see this potential causing a timing issue if worn…) 3) Timing seems straig
  5. Update: Timing cover removed and awaiting kit. Anybody know how to diagnose a chain tensioner? What else should I be on the lookout for in scouting for issues related to loose chain or bad liming? @Patcon: Interesting theory, about low oil pressure. I get good reading on the dashboard gauge. Is low oil pressure a known or common cause of loose chains?
  6. Hi all. Since my last post, I have done the following: 1) Installed a replacement cam “oil sprayer tube” that I got from Yoes Racing heads (See picture below) 2) Installed the new old stock (NOS) distributor shown in my previous posting. 3) Set the points gap. Reconnected the ballast resistor and put the 1.0 Ohm coil back in. 4) Started the engine & adjusted the timing. Result: It started quickly and ran about the same as described above, BUT… As we were adjusting the carb mixture, the engine started to sporadically shake, with a corre
  7. Here's a better picture of showing the model number. Also below is a picture form my Haynes manual where it's referenced. Good to go? My only concern is that it's for a car "with emission control systems" and I've removed most of my emission control components (air pump, non-return valve & flame trap). I'll triple-check for air leaks (again) around these components, but other than that, any issues with running this distributor? 'll
  8. Gents, I'll check all those connections out this weekend. (I won't be able to test this weekend though, because I'm waiting for a cam oil tube from Yoes Racing. In the meantime, here's a distributor I bought on ebay (see pics) . It came from Kuwait(!). My plan is to swap it with the old distributor as-is - with the points, so I have some more questions: 1: What do I need to do under the hood in order to revert back to points from a Pertronix set up, other than a) Reconnecting the Ballast resister and b) Reinstalling the condensor on the coil bracket? Question 2: Should I
  9. Will do & thanks Terrapin! 😉
  10. BTW: Is the that little (~ 3" braided) wire the only thing that grounds the points? Where (on the distributor) would you attached a secondary ground? Thanks!
  11. @Zed Head: Thanks - I'll do it. Is there a comprehensive list of grounds to check for a '72? I'll definitely check out those you called out above .
  12. @Zed Head /All: Here's my complete history with this car so far... First of all, about me: I’m no “expert” mechanic, but I’ve done many repairs over the years, including replacing a tranny & a cylinder head, starters, suspensions, etc. – simple stuff mostly though. I bought my Z car about 2.5 years ago. The previous owner told me that he & his mechanic “could never get the carburetors adjusted right”. (Hmmm). It had been under a tarp and not driven for at least 10 years prior to my purchase. Most of my time with the car has been spent doing body work (in all the
  13. Zedhead: Does this apply to a '72 240Z? Do I even have an AFM?
  14. Gentlemen, Here's the latest update: 1) I redid the compression test using with better tester and throttles open. The readings look good (to me): 1=165 2=160 3= 174 4=170 5= 160 6=165 2) I removed valve cover again to recheck cam sprocket position @ TDC on compression stroke. Please see new pics below, and give me a sanity check on the following: a. The notch on the sprocket is directly below the groove, on the camshaft locating plate. (This is factory setting, per Haynes). b. The distributor/oil pump shaft “tongue” seems to be
  15. @240260280z: Can you clarify something for me? In the picture below (it's also in your September 22, 2012 posting above), are the numbers running clockwise (1, 5, 2, 4, 3, 6) the cylinder firing order? I ask because the Haynes manual shows 2 diagrams that both show the order as being 1, 5, 3, 6, 2 4. (Haynes pages 73 & 74.). I'm working on setting up my ignition, so very curious about this! Thanks!!
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