Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,086 topics in this forum
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- 2 followers
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Hey y’all I’m fairly new to the z community as I picked my z up just a couple months ago. I’ve been trying to diagnose an issue and I think I found it when my coil exploded in front of me. The po bypassed the ballast resistor and now I’m trying to replace the coil. I would be ok with an internal resistor but does the primary and secondary resistance change or is it the same spec? I can’t seem to find any at local auto part stores so what should I order?
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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- 2 followers
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I did try to search this, and realize this issue has been discussed from 6 to 16 years ago. But I was hoping there might be some newer experiences that would help me. I replaced my clutch hose, then attempted to bleed the clutch. There was leakage where the clutch hose connects to the slave cylinder. Based on the research, either there should be an inverted-nipple connection (I'm not sure I'm even allowed to say that anymore), which leaves a few threads exposed on the clutch hose, or there should be a copper crush washer, with the hose flange bottomed out against the washer and slave cylinder. Unfortunately I managed to throw away the old hose, so I can't compare, bu…
Last reply by Seppi72, -
- 5 followers
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I thought that this had been discussed yet I could not find the thread via search. I have a series 1 car (1970 240Z) with a 5 speed. I'm replacing the clutch slave cylinder and wanted to ask which one I should buy? There is the manually adjustable one which appears to be for the 1970-1972 and has a hole for the return spring then there is the non-adjustable one without the hole for the return spring which appears to be for 1973-1983. These are available from MANY sources so I'd also be interested in which you have had good or bad experiences with so I can further narrow down the one to buy.
Last reply by adivin, -
- 4 followers
- 15 replies
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So the headlights on my late model 260z are not working on brights or regular. The brights blue rectangle in the tach does not light up either. This car has a newer headlight switch and turn-signal switch and I think the headlight harness upgrade as well. It has worked in the past until last night when I was out late then expected and tried to turn them on...that was fun Does this car have a headlight relay(s). Fuse is ok. My electrical skill level weak so please keep explanations very simple. As always I appreciate any help
Last reply by w3wilkes, -
- 3 followers
- 10 replies
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Hey people, I'm new to this page. I just bought a 280z and I ive been working on it. I had it running for the past 3 days. I noticed it had a Air leak after the air flow meter so I drove to the parts store got some hose, then drove back installed it. now the car won't even start. I need help! I have tried everything I can to get it to run, it wont even start on starting fluid. Have spark in all the plugs.
Last reply by siteunseen, -
- 6 followers
- 11 replies
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The clock in my '76 starts when I connect 21 volts, runs for a few minutes, and then stops. The hands do not move. I know this because I have removed it to look inside it. Everything looks clean. I lubed it with three-in-one oil, with no satisfaction. Can someone say with certainty that a new board would fix it? Joe
Last reply by zclocks, -
- 3 followers
- 16 replies
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Hi Guys, 1977 280z. Just got back from a drive and I can’t get the rear tail lights to turn off even when the car is off and the key is out. The headlights and side markers turn on and off as expected, just the tail lights are having an issue. Not sure what fuse this is linked to, but I tried pulling a few to see if I can turn it off to no avail. 1. Any idea what fuse tail lights are linked to so I can at least get them off so they are not running down the battery? 2. Any advice on where to start with troubleshooting?
Last reply by Muzez, -
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- 9 replies
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Hello All: Can anyone help me? My 1972 240Z Factory Manual specifies that these bolts be oriented so that the nuts are toward the driveshaft/U-joint (boltheads against the Diff front flange). The problem I have is that the bolts are too long (even though they are original) to feed through the flange. The front seal cover(?) of the diff is too close to the flange to allow the bolts to be slipped into the flange. Will my car fly off the road if I install the bolts "backwards" to the manuals reccomendation? Why do they specify this? Thank You to all for any assistance/advice. Thanks, Carl cstahlnecker@hotmail.com
Last reply by adivin, -
- 3 followers
- 7 replies
- 685 views
I have a 73 Z production 12/72, and owned it since new. I am in the process of finishing the resto and have encountered a lighting issue. With the key on the directionals work properly, front and rear. The rear light has the upper and lower lights blinking at the same time. When I turn on the marker lights, the directionals still work but the rear upper blinks slightly before the lower and all the marker lights dim in time with the blinker. I have tried it with the hazard flasher with the same result. I removed the bulbs one by one-no change. Checked the ground at each socket and all good. Is this unique, or has anyone encountered this.
Last reply by KeysZ, -
- 6 followers
- 20 replies
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So the car had been driving fine for a bit, decided to do a spin on a nice day, about 1 hour in on the way back, the car completely shut off and lost power, it wouldn’t turn back on. The only only way to turn it on is by turning the key and pressing the accelerator. It will not go faster than 5 mph. There is not much coolant in radiator, oil level seems okay, didn’t notice any “chocolate milk” although i did check a day after as I had something to do that day. Theres coolant that I can clearly see, I’m not sure if the car blew a gasket or just overheated, I pushed it back home as it was close. In the picture where the little liquid puddle has formed thats the coolant. Any…
Last reply by Dave WM, -
- 2 followers
- 7 replies
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I need to buy a Clutch Throwout Release Bearing Sleeve for my build and see that there are different ones available. Do I need to match this to the transmission (using '77-'19 wide ratio 5-speed)? The clutch fork (using early 240Z clutch fork)? Or something else competely?
Last reply by heyitsrama, -
- 1 follower
- 4 replies
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Hi All, Re: 1973 240Z I've spent a bunch of dollars on new brake lines and brake related parts. The brake distribution switch under the master cylinder, one of the existing brake line fitting was cross threaded (either on install or extraction) in the inlet and the new brake line fitting will not thread. Tried to the clean up the threads with a tap, no go, fitting will not seat on the flare. So the brake distribution switch is trash. Are there other options outside of searching for a used to brake distribution switch and refurb? Any aftermarket unit (proportion valve) that can replace the stock BDS? Understand the brake distribution switch is not a pro…
Last reply by Blitzed,
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