Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,086 topics in this forum
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- 17 replies
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Hey guys, I just replaced the clutch slave cylinder on the 71 240, I have done this before with no problems but this time I'm stumped. I but everything back on, did proper bleeding, topped off fluids and have great pedal action and resistance.........However, when I took it for a test drive, or tried to take it for a test drive I couldn't even get up the driveway. The engine would rev and the car would barely pull. Is the slave cylinder just out of adjustment? The last one I did I just bolted back on, bleed and drove away. Is it not letting the clutch go all the way out, how do I correct it. Thanks, PS......I just tried to fiddle with it some more, I did notice that I …
Last reply by EuroDat, -
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- 5 followers
- 13 replies
- 1.7k views
Hello all. I was in the process of change out my valve seals today and think I may have added a lot more work for myself. I had read other people’s stories on doing the same job and felt confident. Long story short I have change the valve seal as intended, but the chain tensioner lost tension even with my wedge I used on the chain. I opted to use compressed air through the plug holes to keep the valves up and while doing do it caused the pistons to move, thus moving the chain just enough, thus losing my wedge on the chain. so upon looking at what I’m dealing with now, I have the crank and the cam at tdc, but I can’t get enough chain to come up around the cam sprocket. …
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
- 4 followers
- 51 replies
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Let me start off by thanking this community for the help they have provided so far. Every post I have made, people have provided helpful insight and solutions to all my questions….. so again thanks!!! The car is a late 71 production date 240z. I'm next trying to tackle getting my tachometer to work. I have searched and understand that a BW wire feeds a signal from the positive side of the coil to the tach. I think I have that correct but still no tach movement. The speedo, and three small dash gauges al work as they should. Where should I look next to see if I can get my tach to work? I took a couple pictures I will attach of how I have things hooked up. There is als…
Last reply by cgsheen1, -
- 5 followers
- 37 replies
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If most of you have ready any of my other posts you would know I’m tackling a huge wiring job on a car that was not taken care of. I am trying to figure out why my headlights were not working and decided to investigate. upon investigating it looking like some class a jimmy rigging had been done. 🤣🤣. The previous owner had bypassed the combo switch all together and ran a new switch, and added some sort of a floorboard foot switch for the high beam. Lol. Obviously I started by pulling all this junk the previous owner added but has left me with a lot of wires that are missing. The larger wires (red, and red/white) that are soldered to the top of the combo switch are ju…
Last reply by Dcreech0, -
- 1 follower
- 4 replies
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So i have my engine ready to put back in. my tranny is out and will be put back in after i get engine in. I have engine in bay and mounts all bolted up. SOmething is bad wrong. i have some images with tension from my engine lift still on it. when i take tension off the engine dips badly toward the back toward tranny. This isnt normal is it? can anyone see anything from pics? i know shorter mount is on passenger side so there is a larger than normal (imo) angle toward passenger side when i take off tension.
Last reply by siteunseen, -
- 4 followers
- 24 replies
- 3.6k views
Hello all, I have been reading several old threads on installing the electric fuel pump but I am stump on a few things. To provide you a little background, the previous owner of my 240z had installed a electric fuel pump into the car but did not use the factory wires that were available for use in the installation of a electric fuel pump and I would like to revert it back using these supplied wires that exist in the harness. it appears the previous owner ran his own wire from the fuel pump into this relay. now the reason why I would also like to revert back to using the factory electrical wires that were provide for the electric fue…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 3 followers
- 7 replies
- 1.2k views
Hello, I’m just a novice gear head and learning as I go. I have an early series 1970 240Z and I think the ignition switch is not working. The pic show the switch which has one tab which I circled. The tab fits nicely in a slot in the ignition housing with a screw. However, replacements have two tabs. Do I buy one and file off a tab? Does it matter? Thank you in advance.
Last reply by heyitsrama, -
- 3 followers
- 18 replies
- 1.3k views
So I noticed black smoke coming out of the car, my first thought is the car running to rich plus the exhaust is actually garbage and the catalytic converter is stock from factory (1978) so I assume the exhaust to be the reason for the black smoke as it is dirty, rusty, and black from the inside, but today I noticed droplets of black liquid, now from what I know this could be condensation+the unburnt fuel= black droplets (cold start), as I have driven the car and have not smelled burnt oil nor seen the oil levels drop. Am I wrong? I will inspect spark plugs to see if they show signs of unburnt fuel due to running rich. Can anyone help with ideas to what it could be? (New e…
Last reply by Racer X, -
- 2 followers
- 4 replies
- 642 views
I appreciate any helpful input I may get from you all. I finally have my new to me 1971 240z running and idling on its own. I decided to try and tackle figuring out why my gauges were not getting power. I went to the fuse box and found a fuse missing that I think supply’s power to the dash. I placed a fuse in this empty slot and, behold the three dash gauges are all functioning as they should. Happy and relieved I went to turn off the by turning the key in the ignition. Key all the way out of the steering column and in hand, car still is running…… puzzlers I go to the engine bay and remove BOTH battery cables from the battery and the car continues to run. Baffles and co…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 3 followers
- 3 replies
- 538 views
Would anyone in this forum know where I could locate a valve string compressor tool similar to the kd tools 3087 that’s no longer available? Would be willing to buy a second hand one if someone has one laying around. Please pm me
Last reply by Jeff G 78, -
Stupid mistake and I broke the front end unloading from a trailer. MSA Type 2 body kit nose caught. When I completed the car back in 2006, we bonded the front air dam to the headlight buckets and fenders for seamless connection. This accident forced the nose upward, broke headlight buckets, moved front of fenders up and back. My local body shops say they don't work on anything this old and I worry about their capabilities too. I'm in southwest Georgia (north of Albany). Anyone got recommendations? Other things that make it more difficult: custom paint color and stripes, Atlanta Glasslife ceramic coating on top of paint.
Last reply by Karl_M, -
- 1 follower
- 2 replies
- 591 views
When I removed the old fuel filler neck I noticed some sort of seal on the underside where it screws to the body. I'm guessing that this is to help prevent exhaust fumes from entering the cabin. What should be used to help seal this when installing the new fuel filler neck? See pictures for location I'm talking about.
Last reply by texasz,
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