Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,088 topics in this forum
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Hey, just bought a 1977 Z that im waking from a long +15 year comma. Loloking for guidance as to what i should do and in what order. Compression check done. All Cylinder are in the 180s except 1 which showed 145. I changed all the plugs, oil and filters. I also drained the old fuel and fuel filter. Radiator was empty and thermostat had disentegrated cavities in the cooling systme had white powered residue. Car will only turn over when i jump the starter leads with a screw driver and get nothing, no power when tunring the ignition key, So what do you all recommend I do next? Will post pics of the car when i bought it. Ive had it about 10 days.
Last reply by Av8ferg, -
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- 1 follower
- 4 replies
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Hi, I have an early series 1970 240Z. I was recently told that this car was originally sold without a stock splash pan. Is that correct for the series 1? Thank you.
Last reply by DedZed, -
- 3 followers
- 6 replies
- 816 views
Hello, I have a 1973 Datsun 240z, I had the turn signal assembly refurbished and when reinstalling it the horn will no longer work. I noticed the copper arm on front of the assembly so when I press that on the back of the steering wheel the horn works. If I rest it on the back of the steering wheel the horn blares constantly, if I press the center of the steering wheel or not. I assume it is something simple and I am just a noob but I don't know. Any suggestions?
Last reply by siteunseen, -
- 3 followers
- 19 replies
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Hello All, I "mostly" finished my '77 280z last Summer but I never did get it running right. I've searched this site over many topics and still haven't found the culprit. The car starts easily and idles nicely. It accelerates ok but holding a steady RPM causes the car to miss. At least that's what it feels like. The engine seems jumpy, like its running out of gas. It seems to get worse the longer I drive. Giving it gas seems to make it go away until I let off the accelerator again. Car History: I bought the car almost ten years ago. Drove it home and don't recall having any running issues. For the ten years I was real gung ho at first but then the car took a back bu…
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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- 3 replies
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Hello all, I recently over cranked my window and heard a loud POP and stripped out the window regulator in my driver door. I'm wondering if anyone happens to have a spare for a 70-73 that I can buy. I haven't had any luck sourcing one.
Last reply by texasz, -
- 3 followers
- 10 replies
- 1.7k views
5/71 240z. Went to the market. Car cranked twice then lost all electrical power. DVM confirms the fusible link is open. AAA towed it home, but it needs to be moved. Is there an emergency hack that I can create to allow the car to move short distances, until a stock or upgraded replacement arrives? Thanks!
Last reply by Zpenman, -
- 2 followers
- 12 replies
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Seeking some advice, I decided to upgrade my stock alternator with a 80amp alternator from zcardepot. I also installed the internal regulator adapter as well and have that plugged in. I currently have the large white/red wire coming from the starter to the B terminal on the alternator. I have the white/black stripe wire (L lamp signal) plugged into the ignition key pictured below in the diagram ( which is the pink wire in my picture below) And I have the yellow wire (sense signal) which is the green wire in my photo plugged into to the 12v post in the picture diagram below. And I have the black ground wire on the casing of the alternator. …
Last reply by S30Driver, -
- 3 followers
- 3 replies
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Good Day All, I need help trying to figure out where an extra vacuum hose connects to please. Picture below is from my 1976 280z (Manual Transmission, non-California car) over by the master cylinder. I have three vacuum hoses where the manual shows I should have only two (The picture is not clear). There should be a hose coming from the fast idle actuator into a "T" connector where one ends connects to a vacuum connector and presumably to one of these hoses, yet I have two that is wrapped up in tape (Tape that looks pretty original). These then run across the firewall to the other side of the car. It seems I have an extra vacuum hose? I am not sure at this point.
Last reply by 280z762021, -
- 4 followers
- 44 replies
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While pressing on a new crank damper, I heard a 'ping' and new it was that damn woodruff key. I pulled the damper back off and sure enough it was gone. I've searched all through there, pulled the seal off, tried digging around with picks and a magnet (although a large magnet on a straight stick, not the best tool for that) to no avail. I'm dreading the thought of having to disassembly the engine again just to get that damn key back. Do you guys know of another way? If it fell into the oil pan, should I just leave it there? Is it possible it fell into one of the oil pump holes? Please Help!
Last reply by Awk34, -
- 1 follower
- 3 replies
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1977 Datsun 280z The problem I'm having is that I have exhaust leaks in the manifold so I'm removing the intake manifold, but I've hit a wall at this darn EGR tube that refuses to come off. Every video I've seen has just deleted the EGR system and removes the tubing by cutting it. The problem with that is that I live in California. If I delete the EGR valve, would it cause it to not pass CA emissions? I don't know much about emissions testing and exactly what the EGR does, but I know I'd prefer to keep it. I'm giving it all a bath in penetrating oil but I've pretty much already rounded the nut at the exhaust manifold pretty well. My last hope is to get the …
Last reply by heyitsrama, -
- 6 followers
- 47 replies
- 3.3k views
Im new to this im no grease monkey, and im 18 I have had trouble with my 1978 280z starting ive gotten the car to run even do a lap around but it has trouble when starting the car cranks and sounds like it wants to start but wont, starting fluid really helps to turn it on but if i let my foot off the clutch and off the gas the car will turn off, if i give it constant gas it will stay on as long as i keep giving it has if it dips under 1k rpm it will die, after many many attempts I can get the car to stay on and idles around 800-1000rpm and will stay on, im guessing it may be a fuel Issue it does not read temperature on the temp gauge so sensors may not be working. I can p…
Last reply by dylancorrea1, -
- 3 followers
- 26 replies
- 8.2k views
Fellas.... I am trying to adjust the timing on my Z. :mad: I think the distributor is off a gear, but before I remove the Oil Pump I want to make sure where the # 1 Cylinder is suppose do be on the distributor. Right now, It is around 8:00 looking from the drivers fender when 1# is @ TDC on compression. PLEASE HELP. Send pics if possible... I can't quite get enough timing into it as it is now... I am working on it now, so quick (and accurate) replies would be greatly appreciated Chris
Last reply by 240260280z,
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