Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,439 topics in this forum
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- 6 replies
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Ok, today I removed the Capacitive Discharge system I install 37 years ago. (1972 240Z) Re-established the stock wiring on the coil etc. Car started ok! yea. BUT The tach doesn't work well. It works to about 3,000rpm, but jumps around above that. Also, when throttle is closed the tach drops to zero immediately and bounces up and down before settling down. The CD system had a wire coil behind the tach that replaced the stock wire, that of course was removed. When removing the CD system I reinstalled the white wire loop back on the tach. So what do you think is the problem?
Last reply by ZCCOR#109, -
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- 6 replies
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The price difference is near as makes no difference. I've heard the benefits of Pertronix, but the Crane unit. I heard the Crane unit won't burn out if the key is left on, and the Pertronix will. This insurance is with the extra twenty bux or so. Any Crane Xr-700 stories to share?
Last reply by cygnusx1, -
- 4 replies
- 10.3k views
Could someone give me a close up of the fuse box cover? I dont have one so i have no idea what goes in it , basically my lamps dont work so i think i blew a fuse when my battery blew up >.> cant be too sure though, so i need to know which fuse is the headlights and what the amperage is. Thanks!! Please get back to me
Last reply by '77az280z, -
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Ok i have completed the a headlight wiring upgrade for my 260z; 2 relays [one low beam, one high beam]; 8g wire from BAT on alternator via 30 amp fuse for power; a pretty usual upgrade. Now my headlights don't work at all; when i turn the lights onto low beam i cannot hear the low beam relay engage [click] but when i then go onto high beam i can hear the high beam relay engage [clikc]. Either way no headlights. So basically i am a bit stumped. i have checked all my wiring and every thing seems in order; Any ideas or basic tips that i might be missing? I will dig up the wiring diagram i used to help out also, but from memory it was a sound method which has been complet…
Last reply by TBone028, -
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some of you will remember that I complained very often about point sets burning at every 200 miles. The last batch of 6 sets I bought from Rock Auto went straight to the garbage can no matter I paid the hefty price for them because they are cheaper built than ever and some were for single point distributors and not dual points set up. The good news is I now buy from a Carquest local store that can provide me with Worldpac product made in Japan instead of Mexico. I am running the same point set for more than 300 miles without any sign of trouble about premature wear......this is pretty good news. Furthermore, with Worldpack, a point set is about four dollars when you have…
Last reply by zKars, -
- 21 replies
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I got a battery frame from Mossy Nissan, it's a new-old-stock special order part which they told me is for my '72 240z. It doesn't fit the existing battery well, but I don't think the existing one is the correct unit anyway. Does this frame look like the right one? It doesn't match any of the pictures in the threads I've searched. Are the diagonally opposed cutouts at the sides for correspondingly opposed battery terminals? Thanks all. In case the image link fails, here's the link by itself: http://s132.photobucket.com/albums/q27/AwwsChwA/battery%20frame/
Last reply by cygnusx1, -
- 10 replies
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Hi? my 280z is driving me crazy. some please help. these are my problems: 1. when i got the car, i change the feul pump and the feul pump works. it turns on and push gas to the injectors but the car wount start. the car cranks but dont start. i put gas directly into the intake and the car start. So i went ahead and replace the injectors and the injectors plugs. in other for i to do this change, i took out the intake manifold and exhaust. cleaning it up and change gasket and put on the new injectors and new injectors plugs. After install everything with the hope that the car will start. i went and turn it on and it doesn't start. i check the feul pump and it not…
Last reply by rzkas, -
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I'm trying to see if anyone knows how to convert the wiring for the US-spec taillights to mimic the ones from Europe or Japan. I picked up a second set of taillight harnesses to test this theory on. I saw a thread about it when I first got the car (late last year) but it seems to have dissappeared. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Kevin
Last reply by OniZ, -
- 5 replies
- 1.2k views
After removing the dashboard in my 76 280z I noticed the blower for the heat/AC wasn't working; it did in fact work before I removed the dash. First off, I do not currently have a belt for the AC so I know the problem there. But as for the blower in general, nothing happens when I turn the switch to 1, 2, 3 or 4. However, when I switch the control switch (whatever the switch is called that controls where the air comes from...) to the "AC" or "Recirculate" setting, I can hear a leaky air sound coming from the control console area. Not as if the blower is working, more subtle than that. I know my description might be frustrating but its sort of difficult to put to words :st…
Last reply by JohnnyP, -
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I am trying to get my wiring harness back together to get my car started. After some endless searching to find out what the fusible link even LOOKS like I figured out what I am missing(by looking at the MSA site:)) My question is; to save time and maybe expense can I use just a maxifuse or something in place of that fusible wire and more importantly what value of fuse would I use at this junction?
Last reply by gogriz91, -
- 7 replies
- 1.4k views
Ok, i got this 72 6 months ago and soon after i got it i tried to use windshield wipers, they were not working. Few days ago i took 4 bolts off that holds the wiper engine and by accident i put the windshield wiper on while doing other things inside car. The whole wiper engine assembly moved! So i was convinced that the engine worked and put the bolts back on. Then when turning them on, i could hear CLICK and short BUZZZ but nothing happens, it wont move wipers. Fuse is ok.
Last reply by Reverend, -
- 4 replies
- 1.2k views
So I installed the MSA 60-amp alternator and voltage regulator bypass today. It was a huge pain in the arse fighting the incredibly stiff formerly rubber boot that goes over the positive connection, but other than that it was easy. So I fired it up and all of a sudden the engine bay light and interior dome lights were bright as could be. They'd never been on before, apparently the switches were always active (and the engine bay light was flipped on) but didn't have enough juice to operate. Good times.
Last reply by BTF/PTM,
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