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240ZBUILTBYME last won the day on June 30

240ZBUILTBYME had the most liked content!

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    Perth Australia

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  • About my Cars
    early 1971 240z. Complete Rust Bucket

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  1. I had a look in the fsm but it didn’t give much usable info, doesn’t mention anything about the side trims. Though I know you have to take them off first
  2. Ignorance.... lol out of interest, did you remove the chrome windscreen trim on your 280zx yourself? Is it possible to remove it without breaking the retaining clips? From my research it seems impossible. I recently bought a 280zx and it has a small bubble of rust on the bottom of the windscreen. I want to remove the lower trim to see if I can clean up the rust without removing the windscreen.
  3. Nice work!!! where did you source the foam?
  4. Didn’t get a great deal of time this break, only managed a few precious hours with Sheena. I’ve lost a tonne of sleep lately, tossing and turning in bed scheming and stressing about how I’m going to do this job! Anyone else do that? I’m sure I’m not the only one... I ground down all the proud spot welds and gave the front face and what I could reach a good wire wheeling. I bolted the repair panel in, marked the cut line and made the finaL cut. All the while shitting myself... cut was good with more room for access I went to work cleaning the box section as bes
  5. I’m glad it helped someone! Great job 👏🏽 I was much less careful with my assembly as everything is getting completely overhauled.
  6. I actually haven’t used it just yet, it’s sitting waiting, probably next time I work on the car hopefully. Copper upol is what most professionals use here in oz. not sure about corrosion protection but it’s got to be better than what the factory used back in the day......NOTHING! 😂
  7. I agree it probably is the spring that is the problem. Oh you mean drill all the way through both sheets of metal? But then you have to go back and fill all the holes?
  8. What shape burrs do you use for spot welds?
  9. Yep, the kit has a sprung drill bit in the center, I center punched then drilled a pilot hole with the sprung drill bit, once it was deep enough I put enough pressure to contact the actual cutter, still walked around. I just found the standard drill but type didn’t walk and then you don’t have to grind down any little circles after either. Just my experience with it.
  10. Yep, weld through primer. I’m using copper, upol brand.
  11. I need to have another look and do more measurements but you’re probably right re the hammer. The rear sub frame looks in good shape though, have to try and work out where the 3-4mm went. you know I’ve always thought that a die grinder would work well but I’ve never seen anyone use them online. It’s on my list of tools to buy and methods to try
  12. Managed to remove the rear valance panel! Great Success! Used a combination of methods. These are the first spot welds I’ve ever removed so wanted to try them all. Used the rotabroach cutter style, the specialty drill bit type and the finger file sander. This is what my experience was with each: Rota broach/cutter type I used this specific set so not the el cheapo type off eBay. I found these difficult to use, they don’t work well on plug welds which I had a few of. they like to walk on uneven surfaces. But if your panel is flat and they are factory spot welds t
  13. No proper website, just his Facebook then you have to contact via email. He’s good at answering emails though. Easy to deal with. Apparently he does a excellent reproduction radiator support panel, expensive though due to the number of pieces and work.
  14. I had posted this previously in the thread but here’s another pic of the APS unit. I didn’t buy 2, shared freight with another guy in oz.
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