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240ZBUILTBYME

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About 240ZBUILTBYME


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  • Member ID: 34790


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  • Joined: 09/02/2020


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240ZBUILTBYME last won the day on June 30 2021

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    Perth Australia

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  • Zcars Owned
    240z
  • About my Cars
    early 1971 240z. Complete Rust Bucket

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  1. Ouch mike... yes I saw these from KF, going to get them for mine, but your APS ones should be of high quality too. dare say your handling might be improved once you add some chassis rigidity! 😜
  2. I had a look in the fsm but it didn’t give much usable info, doesn’t mention anything about the side trims. Though I know you have to take them off first
  3. Ignorance.... lol out of interest, did you remove the chrome windscreen trim on your 280zx yourself? Is it possible to remove it without breaking the retaining clips? From my research it seems impossible. I recently bought a 280zx and it has a small bubble of rust on the bottom of the windscreen. I want to remove the lower trim to see if I can clean up the rust without removing the windscreen.
  4. Nice work!!! where did you source the foam?
  5. Didn’t get a great deal of time this break, only managed a few precious hours with Sheena. I’ve lost a tonne of sleep lately, tossing and turning in bed scheming and stressing about how I’m going to do this job! Anyone else do that? I’m sure I’m not the only one... I ground down all the proud spot welds and gave the front face and what I could reach a good wire wheeling. I bolted the repair panel in, marked the cut line and made the finaL cut. All the while shitting myself... cut was good with more room for access I went to work cleaning the box section as best I could. Came up ok and revealed many new holes where rust had eaten through. Question. Can I just fill any small holes with the mig? Given I use a rust converter and ensure the welding surface is free of any rust? I was keen to get a coating on the box section but with the rust that needs repairing I figured I would save it for once those were done. I was thinking of trying a spot blaster to further tidy up the unreachable areas in the box section. Has anyone used something like these? I know they’re generally crap but are they good enough to do some small areas? next time I plan to: - repair rusted through areas on the box section (I think I’ll be lucky to get through this as will be my first time welding in patch panels....wish me luck....) - hopefully get some kbs rustseal in there
  6. I’m glad it helped someone! Great job 👏🏽 I was much less careful with my assembly as everything is getting completely overhauled.
  7. I actually haven’t used it just yet, it’s sitting waiting, probably next time I work on the car hopefully. Copper upol is what most professionals use here in oz. not sure about corrosion protection but it’s got to be better than what the factory used back in the day......NOTHING! 😂
  8. I agree it probably is the spring that is the problem. Oh you mean drill all the way through both sheets of metal? But then you have to go back and fill all the holes?
  9. Yep, the kit has a sprung drill bit in the center, I center punched then drilled a pilot hole with the sprung drill bit, once it was deep enough I put enough pressure to contact the actual cutter, still walked around. I just found the standard drill but type didn’t walk and then you don’t have to grind down any little circles after either. Just my experience with it.
  10. Yep, weld through primer. I’m using copper, upol brand.
  11. I need to have another look and do more measurements but you’re probably right re the hammer. The rear sub frame looks in good shape though, have to try and work out where the 3-4mm went. you know I’ve always thought that a die grinder would work well but I’ve never seen anyone use them online. It’s on my list of tools to buy and methods to try
  12. Managed to remove the rear valance panel! Great Success! Used a combination of methods. These are the first spot welds I’ve ever removed so wanted to try them all. Used the rotabroach cutter style, the specialty drill bit type and the finger file sander. This is what my experience was with each: Rota broach/cutter type I used this specific set so not the el cheapo type off eBay. I found these difficult to use, they don’t work well on plug welds which I had a few of. they like to walk on uneven surfaces. But if your panel is flat and they are factory spot welds these do ok. You must use a center punch the specialty drill bit type this worked really well and I preferred them to the cutter style. Cut quickly and don’t mind uneven surfaces, don’t walk on you either. best on factory spot welds, they didn’t do well on the plug welds due to the small diameter. Must use a center punch too the finger file sander Bought this specific one from bunnings 60$, wanted a cheap one to try out to see if it would be worth the money buying a more expensive air one once I get my compressor. And it is great for grinding out spot welds! Catch is it will leave massive square holes in the top panel, but if you’re not reusing the top panel this is a great option. It’s very quick, I was using 40grit, easy to see when you have ground enough of the spot weld away, leaves the bottom panel in perfect condition. This one did the job but lacked a bit of power, occasionally stopped turning if you put too much pressure on but made up for it with its light weight. Had to remove the clips that hold the.... I’ve had a mental blank.... rear dress up panels that go around the tail lights. As I will be using the whole of the repair panel which will require a cut along the top edge where those clips sit. As expected it’s rather rusty in the box section behind, some rust has made it all the way through. comparison of stock valance vs Auto panel solutions repair panel. High quality product. RHS looks like it has a minor nudge. Some rudimentary measurements show it’s out by 3-4mm. Not too bad. I’m thinking a big hammer can’t fix First mock up of the panel. Need to buy more vice grips for convincing it into position. next up I plan to: - convince the panel into position then test fit the automobile rear bumper to make sure there are no dramas there - mark and cut top edge where new panel will end up - clean up the box section, carry out repairs on the rust holes - kbs rust blast then kbs rust seal the internal box section
  13. No proper website, just his Facebook then you have to contact via email. He’s good at answering emails though. Easy to deal with. Apparently he does a excellent reproduction radiator support panel, expensive though due to the number of pieces and work.
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