peng155

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About peng155

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    Seattle, WA

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    71 'Z'

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  1. Steve, Check this link at Zhome.com it shows most of the 240/260z color, and assoceated codes for them.. http://www.zhome.com/History/ZColorGallary It does show that code 113 is listed as Metalic Green, But when I did a Google search for the paint code you listed 113, it come back as Avacado Metalic Green... Maybe check this other link and see if you can match the current color of your car to what is shown... http://www.automotivetouchup.com/touch-up-paint/datsun/1972/all-models/ Sorry I couldn't be of more help.... -Phil
  2. The basic problem is that as the car ages... so does all of the electrical wiring in the car, as the wiring ages it starts to oxidize.. as the wiring begins to oxidize, the resistance of the wire increases, and the current passing through the wiring begins to experience higher resistance, higher resistance results in the wiring getting hotter then it was designed to. This is what is happening with the parking Light circuit, and headlight circuit, current passes from one side of the fuse (The battery, or source side) thru the fuse and then on to the load (the headlights). the weak links... say the combo switch, and the rivets securing the fuse holder to the fuse box experiences more resistance then it was designed to (the rivet get hot, and melt the fuse box plastic, the contacts in the combo switch degraded) ... the only way I think (not positive).. to totally repair the underlying cause of the problem is to replace electrical wiring with new non-oxidized wire. What Dave's harness upgrade does is to place a relay into the circuit to take the high current load off of the factory headlight circuit, instead of having say (Just guessing here) 15amps or more of current passing through the factory electrical wiring... only a few milliamps of current is passing through the factory wiring to power up the rely.... and the main current to power the headlights goes through the relay circuit in Dave's harness upgrade.
  3. That's the exact same thing my girlfriend is always asking me Steve :devious: I saw in the post for those slim speaker pods that you got a pair Steve, How do you like them? I might give those a try... Thanks
  4. Hey Brian, That's the info i was needing.... I wasn't sure if I was being stupid, and not seeing something in getting either the lamp assembly removed without actually un-soldering the connection at the bulb holder.... Thanks again... -Phil
  5. If you're looking for stock ride, and height, you'll need to look for OEM stock springs.... I'm not positive, but I think pretty much anything out that is aftermarket lowers the car, and firms up the ride... Your best bet probably is either Ebay, or a salvage yard. The springs from Arizona Z Car states that they are "Considerably stiffer than stock" not what you're looking for
  6. Hey Guy's, Here is the Q Logic kick panel enclosure I'm sort of looking at.. Universal Fit, Speaker Pod, Component Speaker Kick Panel [QL-U5001] - $109.99 : Q-Logic Direct, Car Audio Speaker and Subwoofer Enclosures Unfortunately they don't make a enclosure for our car any more because the car is too old.... Too bad I was thinking about buying a pair and seeing if they could be modified to fit in the foot well / kick panel area.. unfortunately the picture on the website isn't very good.. and I can't get a very good idea of the depth, and shape of the over all enclosure to see if some minor modification would let it be useable in the foot well. Steve, thanks for the link on the low profile speaker pod..... I sort of have something like it already, that I made a while back.... the problem with it is that the speaker is pointed at my feet, so not much of the sound is being direct up into the passenger cabin... The nice thing about the Q Logic enclosures is that the speakers are angled upwards so more of the sound is directed up in to the passenger area, and not at my feet I'm contemplating on just making my own enclosure... but that means I need to make a form for the speaker to fit, and then I need to cover it with fiberglass, and then covered to match the interior... not hard to do.. time consuming... and I'm just feeling kinda of lazy right now...
  7. Hey Folks, I was just curious if anyone had ever tried to modify a Q Logic kick panel speaker enclosure for the 240 Z... I could make my own... But I'm feeling a bit lazy, and I'm hoping I could just buy something pre-made, and just modify it to fit the car kick panel area.. Thanks
  8. Hey Damienas, I thought i throw my .02 in..... 600 bucks is cheap, no doubt about that.... I hate to be a kill joy, I remember what it was like getting my first car at 17.... BUT before you pull the trigger make sure you have someone go over the car thoroughly, I know this is your friends dad who is selling you that car.... but just make sure you go in to this with both eyes open.. The radiator cleaning shouldn't be a big problem.. DEPENDING on how bad it is.. You might be able to get way with just flushing it out, or you may need to take it in to have professional cleaned, You might ask your friends dad, what makes him think the radiator needs cleaning. Rust can happen pretty much anywhere on the car... but I noticed that you're in Vegas, can be a good thing because your climate is much drier there... I don't know about the 280, but trouble spots on the 240 were the rear dog leg, floor board, rear hatch lip, under the battery tray area to name a few. As Rossiz said any 30+ yr. old car will present learning opportunities... part of that learning is being able to source parts that may not be made any more, or it might cost you 2 arms, a leg, and probably your first born if you can find the part. Make sure you have a place where the car can be worked on and left undisturbed if needed... the last thing you'll want and need is to tear into the car to fix something you might think is simple, only to find out half way through it ain't, or you get it back together and it won't start or run.... Make sure you have some basic hand tools.. screw drivers, wrenches (open, and box end) in metric and standard sizes.. or have access to them... a multimeter will come in handy as well. And lastly if you do bite the bullet... you buy the car and it becomes a project... I don't want to say "make sure" But try to keep it as a rolling project... One of the other member said that one reason 'Z' project go by the way side, or the owner loses interest is that they aren't able to enjoy the car while working on it. Good luck
  9. Hey Chris, Thanks, I'll have a closer look at it tonight... Thanks
  10. You need to do some simple troubleshooting first, and provide some information... Where is the amp meter needle pointing in the following situations, also what year is your 'Z'? 1) Engine OFF, NO accessories ON (Amp Meter needle should be in the MIDDLE of the gauge, No current flow, electrical system not charging, or dis-charging) 2) Engine OFF, Headlights ON (Amp Meter needle should move to the LEFT of the middle of the gauge, Current flow, electrical system is dis-charging) 3) Engine ON, NO accessories ON (Amp Meter needle should move to the RIGHT of the middle of the gauge, electrical system is charging) 4) Engine ON, Headlights ON (Amp Meter needle should move further to the RIGHT of the middle of the gauge, electrical system is charging at a higher output) Also what does the amp needle do with the engine OFF, and you have the turn signal ON, either LEFT, or RIGHT (Amp Meter needle should move move back, and forth) Just trying to determine if your amp meter is indeed not working or not.... Your statement " The ahmeter is not working, it dials in the middle" isn't really saying much.. If you have an early 'Z', your amp/fuel meter should look like this.. To a certain extent it doesn't matter if your fuel gauge works or not... they are two separate gauges in the same housing
  11. Hey Steve, I just rechecked Black Dragon's website, and it only showed that they could get the front bumper... it looked like they disn't have the rear in stock... Whitehead racing shows they can get the front, and rear JDM.... I may just bite the bullet and fork out the 1200 bucks thanks
  12. Thanks for the info guy's... Chas, I would consider the Harrington Group option.... But WOW, 1200 bucks.... Too bad the Motorsport supplier isn't able to supply them anymore.... they were half the price, I'll probably follow Jerry's suggestion and have the holes on my current one welded close, and then have it re-chromed. thanks again -Phil
  13. Hey Folks, I'm looking for a front, and rear bumper for the 'Z' I'm looking for the clean style bumper that do not have any of the mounting holes for the rubber end pieces or bumperettes. Anyone have any suggestions? Got word yesterday from Motorsports that their supplier isn't making them anymore.... Thanks
  14. Ok, let me have a look around tonight, and this week-end.. will let you know if I can find you some