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Hmm... Ok. I can't seem to find the Black/White and Green wire. There doesn't appear to be anything tied in under the electrical tape, or at least that I can tell. I've attached some pics if any of you can spot that connector or where it might be point it out. cgsheen1, noted about the fuse and impact sensor, those will certainly be added to the growing list. 3059B833-18DE-4968-9712-208BCEC811BC.heic 9820C1D0-2E57-48D3-9CF3-963FCA9666BE.heicE07385F0-A81B-424C-8081-247F872673BE.heic

Have you seen this? Inside a stranger's house with my parents and I was unwinding their phone cords.😇

thanks for all the help, I did install the 2 rubber plugs underneath the back side of the hatch last year as it must have been an oversite when I restored the car years ago, it did help big time. never thought to look up after the bottom hatch was painted and installed. thanks for making me look again at the license plate wire grommet which was replaced back then. years ago, I think back in the 90s I did purchase a black rear carpeted 6x9 speaker box from motorsport auto that replaces the back cover for the taillights. what I just found was the bass tube in the center has an open 2" plastic pipe that lets the bass out from behind the 6x9" speakers into the cabin. so, I used some black gorilla tape and closed up the pipe on the inside. if it does help which I now think it will then I don't mind losing some bass and having better air in the cabin. that weatherstrip in the rain gutter seems useless to me maybe that is why I never replaced it back then. but it was cheap enough that I will just replace it, so it is original.

That's the fuel damper. It absorbs pressure pulses, from one end or the other. Not much to it and they seem to survive without problems. Don't forget that pressure after the pump is at least 36.3 psi. Those small plastic filters aren't rated for that. I made a loop in my fuel line after the pump to solve that sharp bend problem.

My new neighbors are smoking turkey legs today. I'm about to go introduce myself.

I'm fortunate that I have multiple daily drivers, rather than just one. In summer time the 240Z is my daily, along with a R53 Mini Cooper S, a 1999 Mazda Miata Sport, an Aston Martin V8 Vantage and a Toyota GR86. For load hauling and snow runs the Subaru legacy wagon gets the nod. Between my wife, my son and myself we need at least 3 dailies!

I’m interested in your used tank. I’m in San Jose California. I remember 30 years ago the fuel tank in my 1956 GMC truck I had resealed, but I’m not sure that those kind of shops are even still around because of the chemicals in the EPA restrictions. My Z is 54 years old and from what I could tell, which, of course is limited with the Bore scope, it’s very rusted

It’s a great video! Kats

Just got this back today from Sanderson's headers South Francisco it's ceramic coated inside and out $150. Nice people quality workmanship

The kit I purchased was from Motorsports Auto. I had to remove all of the spacers so my head did not hit the roof. As mentioned, I want to contour the seat foam so I sit down in the foam and not on top of it. The foam is very stiff and does not conform to your body. Looking for suggestions as best method to contour for foam.

I used 5/8"-long pan head Phillips sheet metal screws on the sides up front. I don't know how to specifically describe sheet metal screws. For the three screws in the "glove bin" I used M5-0.8x12 countersunk Phillips screws. All the screw heads were spray painted flat black. The heads of the M5 screws I used are a smaller maximum diameter than are the countersink holes in the bin so perhaps the OEM screws have a special head to make them flush with the bin floor. My 1972 FSM (Section 123) shows holes for the front screws (for "floor finishers" from Aug '71 it says) but no screws are shown in the drawing. The rear three screws are likewise nowhere to be seen.

Any clue of the 3 to 5 screws type and lenght for the center console of a 1972 240z?

No doubt, the camera and video have been my best friends through this journey. Once I get under there if it looks like swapping the old ones out are going to require a lift i may just wait and get someone to do it for me.

Go down to the "Push Rod Considerations" section of this link: https://www.evcreate.com/installing-the-ibooster/

Yes, for the hand throttle

I remember the vendor, 'Auto World', from back in the 1960's (I still have their 1965 catalog sitting on my book shelf). I didn't realize that they were still in business. The website pays some homage to the original operation, but doesn't make it clear whether there's a historical link between 'then' and 'now'... "Oscar Koveleski founded Auto World in the basement of his home in Scranton, Pennsylvania in 1958. The small mail order hobby business grew to great proportions and became known for its annual product catalogs, which were filled with every car-related item an adolescent hobbyist might desire." The current iteration of Auto World is based in South Bend, Indiana.

I just used the link that Zkars provided in his #2 post. The Gyraline website currently features their Black Friday deal and offers the option of having the price displayed in the currency of the customer's location. IIRC, I had to select the 'G1' (iPhone) or 'G2' (android) product first, add it to my Cart, and then go to the Cart to see the price. I tried this posing first as a Canadian customer, and then as a American customer. The quoted price in Cdn $ for a Canadian customer was significantly higher (numerically) than that for an American customer -- but maybe that was purely the result of performing a currency conversion. Additional costs for shipping/handling and duties/tariffs might get tacked onto the Canadian price afterwards and not become visible until later in the check-out process. A quick internet search indicates that Gyraline was incorporated in Delaware in March 2024, with operations based in California and Texas. I have no idea where they do their manufacturing. Given the the nature of the design and the relatively low production volumes, it could be as simple as contracting out to a US-based additive manufacturing company ('additive manufacturing' = commercial-grade 3D printing).

@siteunseen THANK YOU! This is the kind of info I was looking for. Much obliged.

My 12/70 has the flapper. And I'm REALLY late to the party! I just picked up an air cleaner housing that only has one hose barb coming out of it (I'm assuming it is for the valve cover breather hose?), has the filter retainer ring on the inside of the filter and there is no sticker, but has sticker residue on the top. What sticker would have been there, and what production dates of cars would have come with this style of box? Jan. - July '70 cars?

On the hunt for an automatic transmission shift bezel in brown. I'm hoping someone made the switch from auto to manual and has one on a shelf somewhere in good shape. Thanks!

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flyback_diode