Topics Last Week

The brake fun just keeps on comin! A few weeks back I found brake fluid in the engine bay below the master cylinder and the rear system's brake fluid reservoir was bone dry. I noticed the bolt that screws the rear-wheels' brake line into the bottom of the master was wet and could be tightened a good 3/4 turn, so I tightened it, bled the master, and the pedal felt great. Noticing both wheel cylinders were leaking, I replaced those this past week. I tried to take the car out tonight to test the brakes and noticed I needed to pump the pedal up to get the car to stop when coming out of the driveway. I checked in the engine bay and a fair bit of brake fluid was sneaking out between the brake line's bolt and the bottom of the master again despite tightening that bolt a few weeks prior. Is there a plastic/rubber seal there that has failed indicating I need a new master brake cylinder, or is that metal on metal which is now leaking for some reason? The car has been sitting for the better part of 9 months while I redid the floor's sound deadening/carpeting and it's odd that the entire rear brake system seemed to die at the same time. The wheel cylinders were last changed in 2016 and the master was changed in 2019.

OK, I'll bite. What does "salute you're typo" mean?

This bot is not like the others. The link actually leads to a real business. In Dubai.

Roof in really nice shape….a surprise. Frame rails, outer rockers and floors toast ….not a surprise. Firewall, spare tire well and inner fenders are nice..surprise. Tunnel and inner rocker area in great shape, perfect to attach new floors. Have rails, need both floors. I’ve seen gnose cars trim lips off the rear to allow wider/lower tires/suspension. Debating on leaving them trimmed off, or replace entire rear quarters to have the complete outer rear well.

The first picture from the left shows a completed repaired hi- lo beam switch circuit board repair. The next 2 pictures show continuity on both of the hi- lo beam switch closed circuits. In the mail on the way I have a parts turn signal switch with broken hi- lo beam switch circuit board. In the near future I can detail my repair protocol if there is interest out in Datsunland.

I also used an electric knife on my seat foam and it worked just fine.

Both the original tensioner and the new one have rubber type washers between the tensioner pad and it's housing.

Seek and ye shall find! I was able to find it and jumper the connection. It was really burried at the back. For others coming to this thread, when looking at the two wire bundles from the passenger side it's connected to the one on the right. It splits off from that. (see pic with finger pointing to it) Just grab the smaller taped up bit coming off it and start pulling. The Nismo pump is a bit noisier than I'd like but I'm really happy none the less. Initial pressure on start up is around 6psi and then once it warmed up it dropped to 4 to 4.5psi. I've moved the red wire from the + side of the coil to the ballast and it runs. But, I've currently got a intermittent misfire on two cylinders. Number 2 and 5. I found them by attaching the timing light plug wire connector to them and the light flash wasn't consistent. I've ordered new NGK plug wires, plugs, cap and rotor. I'm not sure of the cap and rotor though. I went ahead and assumed they're for an L28 though I could be wrong. How can I identify the difference between a L24 distributor and one for an L28? I'm guessing they're not identical. I know the 240Z had points and the 280Z didn't. As the car has a L28 from 2000 I'm assuming they also threw in a later distributor with the Pertronix. I pulled the plugs and they were really sooty. I cleaned them with a wire brush and that didn't really help. I'm wondering if it's my ignition or if I'm just running super rich. Both of those are on the most direct line from the carbs and I'm assuming would be getting a more fuel than the other cylinders to their sides. Brakes also need to be fully bled as I've installed the 8.5" booster upgrade from JDM-Car-Parts and new master cylinder as well. So it drives and stops and can be driven around a parking lot or paint shop if need be.

OK. Just got the last of the plugs in. I like the M16 x 1.5 low headed plugs to fill the inside ports of the intake when one has removed the water heating. Purchased them from Belmetric.

Well, Here I am, a year late, but better late than never! I paid $3,000.00 for my all original, 100,000 mile, 12/70, 1971 240Z in 2006.

Between Iran and Saudi Arabia

Cunifer! Found reference to it. Will see if it is something he'd make for me. If I do go this route opinions? From what i saw it was easy to work with, could be polished to a nice finish, but not sure how close that would be to "original cad type plated look".

Yes, with the parking lights dead, I still have the back feed

Hilarious, experienced all the same issues minus DBW. Really cool he documented the process, it's a journey. Congrats on the coil bracket.

You're welcome.

What year is your 280Z? Is it a bot also?

Good to see someone else rebuilding them. He did miss out one part on reassembly, there's a disc with 4 holes in it that goes over the shaft to restrict the flow of grease into the rubber boot that he deleted. Also the Nissan boot has a bleed nipple on it, they are still available.

Yeah, I saw this one on FB the other day.

I get a kick out of a big horn sound coming out of a weee Z car. 😎

The fit up looks good!

There is a point where the adjusters will cease to tighten. If they're working properly, they shouldn't be the cause of a sticky drum removal. There are other factors that could be the cause. IRL the drum shoe friction material isnt that thick and they don't see that much use so there really isn't that much re-adjustment needed over time. I daily drive my 260 and have changed shoes once in 14 years. After you have them set properly you won't notice much if any park brake handle lock position change.

Have a nice day, people!

Absolutely! Will take me a little while, but the quality and sound were great on the test run!

Yep, it's right 'chere:

Thats a very good bit to know and it totally makes sense. I'll have to keep that in mind when I finalize the fuel system. Since my fuel tank and mount is currently toast, I'm going to sub in a 3g fuel can for now. I've got the pump installed for now, im not happy with how it mounts so ill have to figure something out. I havent had a chance to look for a right angle nipple that might be able to save me some space. The rusty tire tub came in useful as I was able to run the fuel lines through it. Its just temporary to see if I can get the car running. Since I got the pump wired up I decided to see if pump would run and I got nothing. I dont think it has power. I didnt spend any time diagnosing it, I was happy to accomplish the little bit I did. I'm going to flip through the FSM and see what testing procedures they have. Obviously the fuse and maybe a fuel pump relay are at the top of my list. On a side note, I am having a really hard time with my shrink tube terminal connectors and I was wondering if you guys can suggest some better ones. I purchased these amazon terminals and I just cant get them to crimp for a damn. I have 3 different types of crimpers. The old fashion ones and two of the ratcheting kind. I had a couple of the normal terminals and they crimp really nice and tight, but for some reason the shrink tube ones just wont bite. Maybe I just have the wrong jaw. Can anyone also suggest some decent vacuum line? Im not a fan of the silicon ones and all the line I can find is super thick.