w3wilkes

Yes, early 71. Stock ride height, not lowered.

I run the Rota RB's Gunmetal w/polished lip 15X7 +4 offset. I used the Gorilla small diameter black chrome lugs. Can't speak to the 215/60 R15 tires, I run 205/60 R15 tires which are almost identical tire height as stock so my speedo is pretty accurate and no tire scrub at all.

I bought seats from a 77 280Z ($150 USD) for my series 1 so I could have the full forward and recline tilt. Got new foam from MSA ($150 USD) and leather covers for the seats, EBrake and shifter boot ($400 USD) from Interior Innovations so they all match with the red stitching. A friend helped with the seat upholstery and I did the mod for my series 1 seat rails to go on the seats. Here's my seat thread; Not sure what it would cost for this in Canada, but if you're going to use your original seat frames I would guess it would be no where near your quoted $2,400 for 2 seats.

Since my car is carbed, not FI I don't know for sure. Seems like you should be able to disconnect the fuel line just before the injectors and just turn the key to start, I think this will run the pump. And oh, you want the line going into something to catch the fuel.

I was thinking that water is heavier than gas so it would settle to the bottom of the tank. The fuel in the lines, filter(s) and pump would be fine. When it started and ran fine cold it was burning the good fuel in the lines, filter(s) and pump. If there was water that had settled to the bottom of the tank it would be next in line after the fuel in the lines, filter(s) and pump was spent... Not sure if water would cause the filter element to swell and restrict fuel flow. Water is great for cooling, but not your friend in the fuel system.

After I sealed my tank and replaced all the rubber fuel lines I've run only ethanol free gas, the ethanol (alcohol) will attract water and it may be worse in high humidity areas.

What about the fuel tank and lines? Did you drain the tank and check for rust in the tank? My car sat for 14 years, I dropped the tank, cleaned and sealed it, replaced all the lines and did a new fuel filter.

Welcome! Looks like it will do better than 20 feet to me.

Watching TV last night and caught this Boost Cellular ad with what appears to be a 73 240Z In Boost Mobile Orange 918.

My guess is the ribs came along at the same time the tools moved from behind the seats to the smuggler bins on the rear deck. The seat recliner handles on the outside of the seats may have come at this same time.

My 12/70 car has the small triangle inside the larger triangle switch (switch on the right in zKars first picture).

Oh, you were back there with me watching dirt be invented! ?

Just FYI... The ZX ditributors with the E12-92 module can be used just like the ones with the E12-80 module. If you have or can get a ZX dizzy with the E12-92 it will work exactly like the E12-80. When you just use the C and B connectors leaving I & W disconnected gives the same timing curve as the E12-80 module. The E12-92 has been running just fine on my series 1 240Z since 2003. Another reference is in this thread. https://www.zcar.com/forum/10-70-83-tech-discussion-forum/116513-e12-92-e12-80-a.html

I replaced all my fuel hose with this stuff back in 2017, no cracks or leaks yet. I will mention that since I cleaned and lined my tank, converted to electric fuel pump and replaced all my rubber fuel lines with the Gates E85 rated hose back in 2017 I've run nothing but ethanol free gas in my 240z. I went with the E85 rated hose just in case I have no choice in the future on running gas with ethanol. I also contacted ZTherapy regarding their carb rebuilding and E85, Bruce said they ran soak tests a number of years ago and saw no ill effects. Steve did jump in and say that if you run alcohol you will likely have to richen your mixture.

Check the auto parts store for E85 rated fuel hose. You don't need the EFI hose for your low pressure carb system. 5/16 supply side, 3/16 return. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/barricade-3759/belts-hoses-16454/hoses-25069/bulk-hose-16664/bulk-hose---fuel-hose-18164/0a74c36f4425/gates-barricade-5-16-inch-i-d-hnbr-rubber-hose/27335/4349947?q=gates+e85+hose&pos=4 https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/safety-stripe-ii-3753/belts-hoses-16454/hoses-25069/bulk-hose-16664/bulk-hose---fuel-hose-18164/0a74c36f4425/gates-safety-stripe-ii-3-16-inch-i-d-nitrile-rubber-nbr-3-16-inch-hose/27098/4348885?q=gates+e85+hose&pos=14 You need to figure out what lengths you need.

As I said earlier in this thread... "If this is the return line from the fuel rail I used 3/16 as I stated in the prior post. The supply side (where the stock fuel filter is) is 5/16" It's 5/16 supply and 3/16 return back at the tank also.

I have my original spare that still has the paint on the tread, but it only has some of the original air since it did get low and had to be topped up.

I found that the front of the car feels like it starts to float above about 90MPH. I now have the front air dam and the car feels much better at high speed. I don't have a rear spoiler, but if I got one I could swear I've seen wings like this on a S30 car.

Just put your car info in your Sig, and it'll always be there.

In the 1st picture other than knowing it's a right hand drive what's to say it's a series 1 car? That fan in the 2nd picture (a fun picture I might add) doesn't appear to have a clutch like the stock nylon fan and fewer blades. This motor looks like it's "going to the races".

The picture of the motor being put in from the bottom must not be a series 1 car as the fan isn't metal.

There are reproductions; https://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-240z-260z-280z-Metal-Reproduction-Headlight-Covers/303311991232?hash=item469ecdb1c0:g:6vgAAOSwAx9cUkn8 Sticks in my mind that these are from the same folks that do the Vintage Dashes, but not sure. From time to time I've seen originals, but the cheapest I remember was $1,200.00 USD Edit: A little cheaper here; https://jdm-car-parts.com/products/reproduction-jdm-headlight-cover-for-datsun-240z-260z-280z

I run the Rota RB's 15" 7" wide & +4 offset, no spacer with 205 60R15's which come out to pretty close to factory height so speedo also is fairly accurate.

Looks like I've got some work to do this winter! And a little something extra! ?

Of course opinions are like a$$ holes, everybody has one. My opinion is to remove it. I believe a 71, even in California, can be licensed as a collector vehicle without original pollution equipment. If you do something like the MSA ceramic coated headers you'll be removing all the exhaust air injection stuff. Someone else will need to jump in for the carb side of things, but there's stuff that comes off there too. If you intend to do a full original restore like @motorman7 did on @jayhawk's 73 240 (an awesome gorgeous build) then you'll want it all intact.