w3wilkes

Is it metal or plastic? If plastic it looks like the push out center of the plastic interior panel rivets. https://www.dkhardware.com/datsun-trim-panel-plastic-rivet-cp764361-product-14721.html

Yep, see it now that you point it out, thanks.

Looks like one of those old 2 part forms where the bottom is snapped off and kept by the dealer. Looks like your customer portion is complete, the total for the car and upgrades looks like it was $8155.07. Looks like he might have paid cash.

Can't remember which thread I hoovered this from. Is this a custom made air filter housing or does someplace sell these? Looks like it takes the stock air filter.

You should read through tis thread, it talks about doing exactly what you're talking about. It does sound different than doing the electric pump in the early 240z's though.

I would bet the cracks in the dash were filled with this stuff https://www.dkhardware.com/black-777-butyl-rubber-sealant-777BL-product-2447.html?gclid=CjwKCAjw-4_mBRBuEiwA5xnFIBQfHTBg2iE-JxhkcjWrR0vuu_tw70dhEOyRHfFU_6Hs4p19EiTBdhoCuNQQAvD_BwE#description

My early 71 also had those almost useless knobs. I swapped in some seats from a 77 280Z, new foam and leather from Interior Innovations, and now have the flip forward option which is really nice for access to the jack and tools under the plastic hinged covers.

If this means do the Headlight relay kit too, I completely agree. I've also done all external bulbs to LED to lower the power draw throughout the wiring harness.

If you're tlking the kit that comes with the alternator and the Voltage Regulator replacement adapter, yes - it's a straight swap. Very easy deal! https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic10b04/12-4068

Seems to be missing some critical items. Cooler with your choice of libation for one!

Fantastic, congrats! One thing to remember is you're almost sitting on the rear axle and that front end is quite a ways out there. You wouldn't believe how may dented front of the hoods I've seen over the years due to people not realizing how far out in front the nose really is. The rest of that is to remember not to turn too soon and hit curb with the rear wheel.

Too late, what's been seen can't be unseen! ?

Very nice looking car! HLS30-15653 must be early 12/70, my HLS30-17486 is also a 12/70 build.

WOW! Hadn't seen duelies on a Z before! ? Really, paint looks great!

First find the size, then get a plug for that size.

A great excuse for a quick run! I'm sure you took the long way. ?

@Joseph@TheZStore Wondering if you guys will be getting any more of these speaker panels https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic08c02/50-5351

As promised here's the picture of Larry's car I took @ Steamboat Springs Concourse / vintage races - Labor Day weekend 1990. It's what inspired me to jump back on my Z roots. When we got home from Steamboat I took my 73 to a body place and they said it would cost more than it was worth so I went looking for another car and found my current series 1 car.

I would clean / flush the entire fuel system before attempting to start the car. Drain the tank and inspect the inside for rust. Make sure you don't have any split / leaking fuel hoses. And yes, new plugs and wires. Can't remember if the 260's came with electric pump back at the tank or not, but since it appears to have the dealer installed insulation on the fuel rail my guess is the electric pump is probably installed back at the tank too. EDIT: Looking close the insulation isn't on the fuel rail, just on the line from the rail to the front carb. I'd still check for the electric pump back by the tank.

Here's one from a couple days ago in Salt Lake City https://kslnewsradio.com/1903064/i15-pothole-john-gleason/

I just wish I had known all this when I did my tank and stuff a couple of years ago!

In addition to the filler line vent pictured in Carl's post you should leave the top vent on the tank which T's into the fill line vent in Carl's picture. If you're going to have someone do the tank vent deletes for you, have them reverse the direction of the top vent like @z8987 did that then feeds to the vent line shown in Carl's link @ zhome.com. Here's a picture of @z8987 's tank with the single vent - top / rear of tank;

Seems like there was a recent thread about removing the expansion tank and all but one of the vents on the tank. Seems like @Carl Beck gave some direction on doing this and still keep the tank properly vented. The vent on the tank that was kept was also turned 180 degrees to eliminate the need for the horseshoe bend in the vent line. Hopefully Carl will jump in here and either enlighten the thread or tell me I just dreamed this up!

Based on Carl's reply would this be the same issue at less than one third the price or is this correct for a series one car? https://zcardepot.com/products/brake-master-cylinder-7-8-240z-260z-280z-70-78?variant=18837517992049&currency=USD&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=google+shopping&gclid=CjwKCAjwm-fkBRBBEiwA966fZPfEUr63LgJvS2U8A8WuCUYYIJgb8jkWtmcjcC-CFFSpyNBSAwSPZxoCa2IQAvD_BwE#

Jeff, Sure sounds like someone wants a ride in the 680 if not take it for a spin herself! Wilkes