w3wilkes

Can't speak for sure on a 72, but on my 73 with a manual transmission there was a neutral switch. The buzzer would buzz when in gear, but not in neutral when the seatbelt wasn't buckled for either passenger or driver.

It depends on what YOU want from the car. Are you doing it for resale? I have my car because I've loved them since I first saw them. I went out on a limb and bought a brand new 1973 240z that I really couldn't afford. Drove it to death over the next 17+ years and then got my current 'early 71 back in late 1990 to replace the '73. This one is a fair weather driver and yes, I've done mods and don't have some of the parts I've removed. Do I care? Not really because the car is the way I want it.

Just a really stupid question... Can the PU bushings be "softened" with a slight amount of perforating without compromising their integrity?

Who is Josh who's getting something from Z Car Depot in Ontario Friday July 10? I got an email from them telling me my order is on the way and will be delivered today. Here's the Fedex info from Z Car Depot Shipped Your package has been processed. Your tracking number is: 394612364527 ATTN: JOSH KINGFA GLOBAL INC. 1550 S MILLIKEN AVE STE A ONTARIO CA 91761-2323

Too bad this pipe wasn't flipped 180 degrees. Then you wouldn't need that 180 degree hose to get back to the evap tank.

From what I've seen of your car builds, they're just gorgeous! They only problem I'd have with them is I would be afraid to drive them. Carry on!

Nice car and welcome!

Got to love matching numbers! ?

Site, The biggest issue I found with the LED headlights is the way Datsun did the wiring. Since LED's are diodes they only allow electricity to flow in one direction. Rather than the center post being a common ground, the center post is hot and the switching is done between the 2 posts that are ground in the Datsun world. Here's a thread where I asked Dave about his harness and how it's wired. The thread also has the headlights I ended up going with. Because I've been lazy and the lights are working I haven't taken the anti flicker block out yet, but according to Dave the harness puts the ground on post 3 where it typically is outside the Datsun 240z world.

The seal on mine is in the valve cover. Car is 12/70 date.

After talking to James at MSA I went with their stuff. The rear bearings are Nissan OEM the fronts are Koyo.

I did the ITG air filter and ran all the vents to the air cleaner like the original configuration.

Did a quick search and this came up... Looks like Koyo and Timken may be same same nowadays. https://www.prnewswire.com/news-releases/koyo-bearings-usa-llc-formed-following-jtekt-acquisition-of-timken-division-80706827.html

From what I get on their website http://watanabe.polyhedron.io/ The F8's sound like they're front wheel drive maybe. the A's are aluminum and the B's are magnesium.

Thank you!

Thanks!

@Joseph@TheZStore Comment

Anyone know the quality / brand of the MSA wheel bearings? Their price seems reasonable comparatively. Figured I'd do these too since I'm doing struts and bushings.

If you're going to re-upholster with the Interior Innovations leather (which I have and I'm very pleased), You should also replace the foam; https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic08f04/40-2691 I have a thread on a couple of things here; I replaced my series 1 seats with 77 seats so I could have the seat flip forward, the handle is way easier to adjust seatback than the series 1 knob. I also prefer the seat bottom springs rather than the straps under the foam on the early seats.

Dr, There just happens to be a recent discussion over in the Help Me section. Wilkes

For the braided hose for the tank vents I followed WoodWorkerB's directions; http://woodworkerb.com/home/datsun-240z-rebuild/240z-fuel-tank/

From this picture it looks like you already have headers and the air ports have bolts in them? If I remember correctly back in the mid 70's MSA had headers with the ports in addition to "comp" headers without the ports with a warning that they may not be legal in your state. If those are headers, are they 6 to 1 or 3 to 2 with a "Y" connector and do you have 2.5" exhaust? As for heat shield it looks like ZCarDepot has them; https://zcardepot.com/products/carburetor-manifold-heat-shield-stainless-240z

I've removed my mechanical pump and have gone electric at the tank. When cold I apply full choke, turn on the key and let the pump run for a few seconds until I hear a slight change in the pump sound which I think is when the system is fully "charged" with fuel. Then holding gas peddle to the floor it always takes 5 to 10 seconds of cranking before it comes to life. Once it fires up I can reduce choke to almost nothing and by the time the oil pressure comes up I can eliminate the choke. When the car is warm I just bump the key and it starts right up. On my '73 it was about the same story as my current early '71. I had the full dealer stuff on the '73 to address vapor lock so it had both electric and mechanical pump.

I'm guessing that for about the price of the FAST system you could go with rebuilt SU's from Ztherapy which would work with the big cam for sure.

Here's pretty much the same picture with stuff removed. A couple of comments... I have the 6 to 1 ceramic coated headers so no air injection ports on the exhaust manifold. you'll need to plug those... or go the header route. The pipe on the air cleaner that has the hose to the pump will need to be plugged or else you'll have an unfiltered air passage to the carbs. What you see in the position of the air pump is my A/C compressor.