dutchzcarguy

Basically all metal should indicate zero Ohms.. (you will have always a bit like 0.05 to 0.15 ohms or so in the leads and the contact you try to make..) Acceptable is a reading of max 1 ohm or so.. (if you close your meter cables you must read something like 0,1 ohms or less.. if more you can deduct the numbers.. example.. you close your meter leads together and it reads 0.8 ohm.. you measure between batt minus and the engine 1,9 ohms.. your real resistance between the engine and the batt minus is 1,9 - 0,8 = 1,1 ohms.. this is acceptable. Best is of course R= 0.01 - 0,2 ohms. If you make all the contacts very clean and spray some coppergrease you will get that.

I would love to have one.. dead or alive! As an electronic guy i think i can repair BB. Hahaha.. I would hang it on the wall with a speaker and some switches!

I wonder... on what is Bitching betty recorded and were can i find the box were it's in? In the dash somewhere? Is it a small recordplayer 😂 or what?? I know my commodore 64 had a voice called: "Sam reciter" but that was is 1983 or around.. and if i may add.. it's a terrible voice hahaha.. An anthem is sung? at 2:40 min in this vid: hahaha HORRIBLE!! Also: first voice sythesizer 1970! wow.. (2;20 min. into this vid.)

Your talking inches right? then you mean 0.04! (in mm it's 1.0-1.1mm) so 0.04 x25,4mm is 1.016 mm is OK.

YUP.. windshield was cracked right at the lower left edge . tried to stop the crack by drilling (and melting, see wires of glass at top!) but did'nt succeed.. A day later the glass was cracked in more than one direction.. well that was a bummer..

Sure it's a P not a K? wrong distributor? coul be... over here in europe it's the K version only.. (In serv.man. i see no part number because there are more variations) Number at the end is maybe not so important 02 or 07 .. i don't know.. Maybe someone with a 280zx turbo could chip in..

When i was busy on a car i made this pic.. what is it? For hobby i "worked" (Were present! 😉 ) for a short time at a car repair shop, the owner got pic's of repairs of his guy's of cars he did'nt have a clue what was in the photograph's haha ... sometimes you have to see the "whole" picture to know what's on the detail pic.

😂😂 I also thought what a creative test .. 😂 You need to stop with unscrewing that cap.. it has to be tight on the distr. Buy some new cap ( for a D6K81-07 turbo distributor!) and leads (if not already done.) those are old.. Inj. 6 has no impact on engine.. you mean when you unplug it (while running) there is no fall in rpm's.. Then clearly something does not work properly (yes you sayd you saw it spraying.) But the compression is'nt high enough or the spark is to weak. The plug is wet because there is no combustion.. Did you check what type of distributor you have? you need a D6K81-07 distributor and.. i bet you have the wrong one on there.. type is on the side of it on the aluminium part/shaft..

Uhm.. I don't have the space in my garage for another machine.. i got a GoldWing of over 900 Lbs.. (410-425Kg) !! And a 4 post is ideal for service on a GoldWing.. Would that dodge fit on my 4 post? it's over 5,5 ,mtr long. (that's over 18 foot long.. ) But i'm sure the roof would get in the way because i always lift low sportscars!

I think your already going (in your mind) for a 2 post.. I'll prefer the 4 post any time.. did a motor and gearbox removal.. they go from the top in datsuns and nissans.. as far i know.. and working on brakes a problem? I have none.. 4post.. 1 very stable, most can handle more weight also. 2 Much safer (ever seen one falling of a 4 post?) 3 extra parking spot (for future people who are looking for a lift) 4 You can also use it to work on other things like a bike or motorbike or lawnmower? 5 When working on brakes or the axle you have your working bench under it for the tools! (axle is in the air on a stand in the middle.) 6 changing cars on and of go's much faster than with a 2 post. 7 you get no damn dents in your car like a 2 post often does! 8 make an extra storage.. ( i have a side and behind attick in my garage resting on 3 of the 4 posts so it supports my extra (attick)space also!) GO BUY A 2 POST! just kidding, but seriously i would not trade my 4 post for 2 new 2 post lifts.. But thats only my opinion.. 😁

Oeps.. It's not a modern petrol car.. nor a diesel.. It sprays 2 times per cycle (of 2 rotations) into the intake manifold!

I've got a 4 post lift, an overhauld one from a spanish brand Istobal.. 3 or 3,5 tons. I prefer a 4 post because it's better for the older cars.. you don't break those flooredges.. I can't think of things i could not do on a 4 post? tell us what it is please.. ( working on an axle you can put that axle on a stand and the lift becomes a workbench for al your tools i would realy miss that with a 2 post lift.. also a 4 post is MUCH more stable!) My 4 post is most of the time a place to store my other car! Now i drive the car that is under it and comes summer/winter i change then! (summer car on summer and winter car on winter tires!) Also, if your a bike guy (like me) you can put a bike on a 4 post... on a 2 post.. not so easy..

no. If inj.#6 works thats fine. Now you say #6 compression is 90 going to 45 psi..thats the problem.. smells like stuck valves..

Q1 - Yes.. non turbo has D6K7-02 OR D6K7-04 OR D6K8-02 And turbo has D8K81-07 According to my serv.manuals.. Q2 - If your CR is 130 Psi on all cylinders thats OK. You could exchange injector one of 1-5 and 6.. the problem is now in cylinder 1-5 ?? then the new injector is faulty.. get a new one. (i understand your sparkplug is, as the cable to cyl. 6 good/new..?) As i sayd before the new part can be dead.. it happens. You better test the injector with a small ordinary 9v battery.. with a 12v battery you could burnout the coil of the injector very easely.. the 9v bat can deliver just enough power to let the injector open.. maybe the new injector you put in cyl.6 is stuck.. put it overnight in a cleaner solution like injectorcleaner stuff.. maybe that helps..

So the new one is also a defect one? change pos 5 and 6 injectors, now the problem is inj cil.5? you have a new dead injector.. I took a good look in my electr. inj. book i got for the L28 and the injectors have 6 different lines from the controlunit, so it appears to have different timing on them when to inject.. on the other hand.. how does the electronic controlunit KNOW when to inject? Answer.. (out of my serv.man. EFI) The injectors are fired twice during a complete cycle of the 4 cycle engine! It does not know where exact and it does not need to know.. every cylinder sucks it's part in when it needs fuel/air mixture. So EFI does fire the injectors at the same time and in 2 steps.. There is an air/fuel mist all the time in the intakemanifold..

It would not be the first time.. check,check double check.. As sayd.. do a compressiontest. Also i would look for a airleak.. that can do strange things to a engine. Did you know that these injectors all 6.. fire at the same time each time? Long ago i thought they fire just before the intake opens but that seems not the case.. I hope i'm right if not please chip in!!

YUP !! Works for edge TO! Thanks!

The plating did'nt fail on my 280zx plate.. It's the same plate for 280z - 280zx then.. As it's a daily driver this was good enough for mine.. (If i had preped it a bit (sanded) it would have come out perfect.

As i'm tall i used 4 (2x2) from those big plastix nuts there are used under the seat, to lift the front up.. if you then put the seat in the front position it's also easier to do the rear nuts. i used a flat ratcheting wrench.

I use microsoft edge.. on the left almost nothing works Carl.. fwiw

14 ??? i'm selling the 0,4 of my 1,4 240z cars! I would sell 12 of them.. and buy completly something else for it! 14 of the same does nothing to me.. Buy from each z or zx type one much more fun than 14 of the same.. !!! 👍

I'm not at all!! If i needed a 240z i like this one.. As i have several drivelines from engine to diff and stuff.. no problem to bid 10 grand for a almost rustfree car! Yesterday i sold a original NISSAN frontwindow rubber in it's orig. plastic bag for 450 euro.. It layed 20 years in my cellar and was like new.. still.. This is stuff people really WANT!

Totally agree. I don't know where the car was stored in. but if it's in a moist envirement i think you better get new oil every year. if it's in a very dry storage and not runs for a long time a 10 year period would not be a problem.. the oil stays clean like it would in a canister.. i think.... I run my 300zxtt onlt a few months a year and use synthetic oil every 2 years, (regardless of the milage (or few km in my case)) it's stored in a heated garage so i think thats safe.

I'm sorry if mentioned before (i did not read the whole story..) But.. what is a 350 miles car doing with a FRAM oil filter, that was'nt standard on a new delivered car in the '70's or was it? FRAM was'nt used by nissan??? and a first 1000km or 600 miles (or so) check was'nt performed either so i ask myself where does the FRAM come from..?? FRAM is a ... i've been told.... a useless filter with paper in them that after some time starts to disolve and gets into your engine.. or is it old news very old news?

And now everybody is looking if his/her L24 spare engine serialnumber is : 023269 😁