dutchzcarguy

So... done a lot of searching and found at last a picture (paper one..!) from a 1972 240z of mine out of 1991! It shows how the hitch was attached ... more or less.. Closer look... It was a orig. BRINK hitch and the nominal weight for it was 50 kg down on it and 900 kg max trailer weight.. as far i remember.. This was my first 240z and was to rusty to repair.

I'm only hoping he knows that his vanes have to turn in different directions?...

I sold once a trailer hitch for a 240z, it had a beam from left to right (going to the main beams?) ... were the bumper attaches? (laying inside the bumper outside the car.) And two brackets that went to the floor just in front of the gas tank, they were made of 1 1/4 a 1 1/2 inch tubing going under and round the gastank.. it was a original BRINK (a maker of trailer hitches , i believe a Dutch.. made in Holland brand..?). I've never had one for 280zx but i've seen one that only had a beam accross and went to the hooks under the bumper? i don't think that is very strong? On the other hand.. if you can pull a car with one hook.. two might be strong enough for a trailer hitch? 🙂

Size 46 (in holland) JUST MY SIZE!!! (You guys say size 12..)

Few more pic's.. Old but new and just not used orig. KONI chocks. Made in the Netherlands. (Made in Holland) Chrome inner is as new.

Here the rare headlights.. New in original box from Nissandealer.. Years ago i was restoring wheels and came across these: Oh btw.. i got a set for sale maybe next year on a restored set of orig. wheels with these caps on.. very rare.. Another gem.. These original chocks for a 240z rally car.. these are the ORIGINAL 82R-1811 en 82R-1812 chocks. one complete set for a 240z rallye as driven in the seventies by Datsun-dealer team and driver Han Tjan. (Netherlands.) Here the sticker from the dealerteam (on the right) Car with Han Tjan No:5. in red/white/blue (like the dutch flag colours.) (The other sticker was interesting to me because of my just restored 1979 280zx.)

Hihi... 1000$ for a original speedocable.. i got one in the original packing! Also many others.. like orig. headlights (convex glass!) for a 260z/240z) In orig box! A new camshaft orig Datsun with paperwork and it's a so called slalom shaft (higher valve opening and longer time open) and in the original box!! Bidding for the Lights can start at 1000$ !! 😜

Oh YES..That could be the problem. I've got a Beckman Industrial .. (But that's for the pro's haha) These days you can get a multimeter for 20-50 $ , but 45 years ago i bought me, as a little boy a analog multimeter as also a friend did.. But he tried to measure the internal resistance of a wall-socket.. it turnt very shortly into a fan.. 😂 I'm proud to say mine still working after many many use, and 45 years!! Back to topic.. It's always good to have more than one meter.. i got 5-6 .. but i'm an electronics guy.. (old electronics haha.. that new stuff is unrepairable!! made to throw away!!) Another tip: always close (short circuit) your meter leads before measuring Ohms.. you should read about 0 ohms.. then measure the cable or fuse whatever. also use sharp pointy test probes.

I once had a reading of over 10 M-ohms between the battery plus and the cable clamb on it!!! and could not SEE anything wrong with it.. so .. and i sayd it a lot of times, new does not mean it is a perfect part.. check your connections.. 8,2 ohms is way to much for a battery (realy FAT) cable..

Vid's tell me almost nothing.. engine has hick-ups.. I looks like a electrical problem.. there are many parts that could be the culprit. Maybe you could change a part and look if it's gone.. do this with all electric parts that could cause the problem. 31,4 ohms between battery minus and chassis?? that's much to high! Clean contacts, use a contact cleaner. Get it under 1 ohms..

I see the ad.. here it does not start itself.. never had that on czc.com

BTW.. is the blue in the glass or is it a tinted blue inner layer in the front glass? (I think it's in the glass itself as it is in the rear hatch glass?)

"ding" "please drive more carefully!! " "ding"

Only the underblock? i think a 1200 euro? and the head is a very special one (E30! no not the E31!) in excellent condition for 1500 euro.. block was painted long ago and never used again (1990!) and head was revised in around 2007-08.. But then i restored my own engine orig. to my car and did'nt use it again.. These parts are stored in grease/oil in a heated garage .

I think the rear hatch glass is meant..? An amerikan/english confusion.. 😉 Are they gona make them tinted and in blank glass? the 240z's glas is tinted blue-ish..

Like on a ordinary record the needle passes through the groove, normally it only has one LONG groove. Here there are about 10? different grooves all lying next to each other, the Needle "knows" what track it must take by the different inputs.. It's simple technique but a reliable system Haha.. Thank you very much for the interesting video! BTW.. I think that it can be used during driving, how could BB (bitching Betty (so funny!)) warn otherwise for low on fuel? "ding" " I'm still good for another 300,000 Miles " "ding" ...

"Ding" ... " I thank you very much " ... "Ding" !! 🙂 Nice pictures! and it's all so clean inside after almost 40 years!! "ding" " Back on topic " "Ding".... 👩‍🦰

Thank you for that pic.. but (oeps) i was more interested in the parts inside, is it realy like a recordplayer inside? Don't drop! yeah i can feel why!

AH!! Again thank you! Maybe someone could make a thread special on this subject.. all the different s30 and s130 chassis "designations" it is called i believe? ( My english is not THAT good hahaha...)

Very.. Very nice List! only the: BY should be a PLUS or: "+" then it's a perfect list of 280z/zx's delivered only in Japan. (as i understand now!) Thanks for the list HS30-H !! I know that the L20E was a 2 ltr engine for the s130 it had to do with high taxes in Japan if your car had more than 2.0 ltr engine.. so there are probably few 2,8ltr 280z/s130 cars?

As far i know the euro types did'nt have it..? Mine is a first ed. 1979 and does not even have elec. anything... hahaha.. Hahaha... i'm happy it has a alternator so i don't need to charge the battery every time i drove the car! 😂 Yeah! I know what you mean! At the moment i'm selling a few things here local and.. man... how many times i've been to the cellar (my storageplace for half of my parts..) i don't know but many times..

I doubt this is a 280z... It's a s130 chassis so it's a zx.. What's funny.. and seldom people see that.. the Z on the bonnet... eh.. hood is put back after paintjob upside down! 🙂 Also i think when i see all the mess inside the car it drove 172,000 km not 72000km... I bet the tag under the hood says: s130 nissan 280zx.. or it no longer has that tag.

Hi, I live in the Netherlands, (do speak German..) and i have a L26 in good condition with a restored E30 !! head! Makes nice horsepower.. It is still in parts as i did'nt need it so far.. but its all in good condition. and for sale. So if neccessary you got an option near you.. (I'm just on the border with Goch/Kleve DLD. near highway A77) Got a lot of other parts to.. z driver since 1991..

Haha.. These two parts 71854-64E00 and 71859-64E00 turn out to be... FROM A SUZUKI ??? I looked up the numbers on internet and they are shields from a suzuki? I wondered where they fit, they didn't.. not on a 280zx! Someone restoring a suzuki of subaru?? Hahaha.. I think my old painterguy slipped them in my box of parts.. not knowing they are not from a 280zx. (they are on the net for 17-18 euro a piece.) There are a few things i still have to work on.. Got some new gas springs for the rear hatch. and still have to install the pump for the rear windshield washer. and the newish.. rubbers from the front stabilizer rod need some grease.. scweaking noise.. does someone know whats best for that rubber to lube it with?

Thats a plus for the RUBBER euro spoilerlip.. it does not brake very lightly.