dutchzcarguy

Most people are thinking stop! (this discussion) but i keep saying this : those are NOT the official jack points of a (240z-280z) s30 chassis.. so use the right spots. Later on when you have a flat tire the chassis has to be strong enough to use a jack anyway! Use some rubber blocks with a slice in it for the chassis edge. It's gona be a beautiful car, good job!

At first you did this: And then desided to go original! Yep i like your wheel! You've done a good job on it! 👍

As you wil need a new steering wheel, you could also cut the aluminium part off with a grinder just don't touch the steel axle.. (stop just before the axle with cutting, then stick a flat screwdriver in it from the front and brake/crack the last part. (USE NO HAMMER 🙂 )

No one mentions the painters work? (who should be ashamed) In the first video (car exterior) on 1:22min. you can see 3! different colors of silver on the fenders and hood.. (Maybe the left fender is like the hood (if you look from another angle) the same but the right fender is much darker. as is the headlightbucket. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1978-datsun-280z-86/

I think you can better invite someone in than to go with a half a car to someone? Also.. if you can't get it off heat the thing with a hairblower and then you can ice the axle with cold spray, you can buy that in a can and spray the axle to minus 42 degrees Celsius.. (No i don't know Fahrenheit but it's very cold.. 😉 ) A paint burning heating gun would also work but dont make the cable in the axle (from the horn) to hot! I use a hairblower and shut the inlet with my hand a bit so it will give more hot air.. keep checking the hot air with your hands..

Use a puller ( a pully puller..) when you can't get it off.. NEVER HIT IT WITH A HAMMER YOU WILL DESTROY THE BEARINGS!! (Like that dumb arse of a painter of mine.. (the first one..) see my "restoration of a 280zx 2+2 1979 slick roof ) I'm still in need of a new bearing thanks to that unprofessional idiot..

Maybe the choke is "hanging" thats causing the high rev. could be lots of things.. high rev can also be caused by a vac. leak.. If you think you see a leak spray some brakecleaner on it, if the rpm changes.. thats a leak. Watch out that you don't burn down the car, don't do it on a hot engine. take precautions..

Thats a failing resistor in your ignition circuit.. for a test you may shortcircuit the resistor you find near your coil.. I bet you it will stay on! Get yourself a new resistor, or repair the failing contact on the old one!

Good! Start your own resto topic! It's nice to see your own restoration steps later when you are finished! (And we like also to see some pictures of your progress!)

I looked at the website you gave us.. and asked myself... look at the hides there in this pic.... HOW BIG ARE THE EURO COWS???? 😂 btw if i look for alcantara, it's not on that website.. at the moment i don't need alcantara it would be nice to know where one can order some.. never mind..

I assume you mean that the car would be more valuable. Yes and no.. Many people like the originality and others are more pulled to the 5 speed although thats not original on your home market.. (Just my opinion..)

For us euro guys it would be nice to hear the name of shop in Germany?

I told it before but a euro 240z HAS ORIGINAL a 5 speed gearbox with a 3,9 (i believe) : 1 diff. The type Is a Fs5C71B gearbox. In the Netherlands the 240z came a bit later then 10-1969.. it was more halfway 1970? I don't know if the Fs5C71A gearbox was ever in a 240z in the european market.. could be.. Why there is no difference in price.. i don't know.. i only know that i would pay more for an original euro car with 5 speed. Much! more rare..

Sometimes our weatherman does warn for that, after a long period of drought there is alot of rubber on the road and with the first rain it's a slippery slide.. It does not matter if you have new or used or very old tires you will have to be careful.. I always anticipate alot.. you have to with toyo tires from 2005-08 or so haha..

Don't think its black, it's like on your pic. a good thing to do is a ceramic layer on it, costs about 125 dollar i hear.. keeps the heat out of the enginecomp. VHT has the cast iron look paint silver.. but is not as durable ofcourse. Original they were as on your pic i'm almost sure.

Not from the MC, it;s from a leaky booster, you prob. hear it at best from inside the car near the brakepedal.. Revise your headcyl. and the brake booster..

Thats because these screws are NOT Phillips #2 they are JIS.. a Japanese type of screw recognizable by the little dot near the cross on the head! However you can use a phillips screwdriver if you are a bit careful.. Before turning check fitment and sometimes first a tap with a hammer on your screwdriver will also help unscrew.

Why not dot4.0 ? it's better i always presumed.. And yes zedhead is right, your mastercylinder needs a overhaul.. clean out the mastervac, put after emptying some washing detergent in it and that will soften up the rubbers in it and clean it. Rinse and dry in the sun.. or.. another warm place. 😉

In Germany they say a 10 year old tire is not done.. i drove in the Netherlands with good 15-20 year old tires, no problem.. Of course you have to take into account the conditions but that is using common sense.. My 280zx is at the moment on old tires with lots of thread.. has no cracks at all but these tires are a dissaster on wet roads, very slippery... I like a bit of a slide haha..

I think this is also interesting: 45k-Kilometer 1990 Nissan 300ZX 2+2 for sale on BaT Auctions - ending February 16 (Lot #43,272) | Bring a Trailer

Well.. THAT is MUCH to MUCH play!!! The spleens (Hope i have the right words haha) In that yoke have to meet the spleens on the out-shaft perfectly.. with no play, i can clearly hear in your vid. that it rattles.. I looked at the vid few times at it seems to be that your propshaft does NOT fit your gearbox at all! Also i hope you hadn't installed the propshaft, (just holding in your hands) if the shaft was installed, it's a to short shaft! (Like zedhead sayd, from a diff car year..) Get yourself an other propshaft, with good spleens in it and look if your spleens on the outputshaft of your gearbox are not damaged! Must i say it... again.. there should be 0 play on that.. remember also, if your driving in 4 of 5th gear at high speed, that propshaft turns at a very high speed! If that connection breaks there is a possibility that tha shaft will hit the bottom of your car very hard, some say that it can take off your leg(s) if your really unlucky !! So, don't take it lightly. btw, if i see the video, i'm surprised the oil does not leak out immediately.. The play is also that big because your yoke is not pushed far enough onto the outputshaft.

So... nothing to really worry about.... As long there is oil it's going to lube the engine. i make one check: if the camshaft is lubed well at warm and at idle everything is OK! (just look under the oil cap)

Have the raised lip on your current exhaust flange removed or do it yourself with a grinder and the last part on a flat piece of wood with sandpaper on it!) and weld some extra thickness on the spots (on the other side ofcourse) to even out the hight for your stud-nuts and those fat rings.. use the orig fat rings not those tiny things,

It could be that the oil pressure sensor is still not good.. maybe test it in another engine? Or lend a known good one or order another one? In my 280zx i have a new one and my red light in the oilgauge go's on when i lower the engine speed to say 400-500 rpm's, i think that is normal as it normally runs / idles at 700 rpm. Older sensors tend to leak oil through the sensor to the contacts.. maybe yours is also leaky and should be exchanged for a new one. I don't know if your 280z has the 1 pin 240z or 2 pin 280zx sensor. (280zx has a extra pin for the oilpressure light.) Also do not know if your 280z has a red controllight for "oil pressure to low" in the oilgauge..

Since about 10 years you no longer need to install the blinkers on the bumper, and i heared that if the light-image of the installed sealed beam headlights is good they can stay.. Only when the light-image is no good then it has to be changed to another one or the H4 lamps.. I'm not sure if this is correct..