dutchzcarguy

Ah... Then the black pearl doors (spares) i got from a 240z (as new..) are for sure from a Dutch or at least a euro car? @Zed Head

Totally agree, But.. would it be possible to weld some extra on that exhaust header and (let it) shave flat? So that the "ring" becomes a bit wider for a better fit. He could do that? (I'm also interested because in the near furure i have to take a head apart.. 😉 )

Hi guys, This time i'm going to refresh The engine of my 280zx as i can predict that the seals and all will fail one time and i want to prevent that (after 42 years !!) So, i'm looking for a good (best) engine or headgasket set. (as i already did the crankseals i think i go for a complete head set of seals/gaskets..) I have found (local in the Netherlands) some brands.. 1. AJUSA (made in spain) makes a set for E89,- 2. Japanparts (Made in Japan? sheap junk??) E23,- (!!) 3. Glaser (no idea) E 50,- 4. ASHIKA (Japanese???) E56,- 5. Payen (Made in UK.) E65,- 6. Blue print (no idea) E143,- So i lean to a set of headgaskets from Ajusa or Ashika, Has someone the information were NISSAN got his headgaskets for the z or zx from? Last question is, how thick is a normal (orig Nissan) headgasket? (read something like 1,5 mm?? )

It comes from a Dutch 1972 240z car (sitting on a US. 240z 1971 now.) I took a look at a euro version balance tube and inlet parts in my "warehouse" and they were also E41 for the tube and E88 for inlets.. I only know it was on a Dutch 1972 240z. It had a little bigger damper sitting there but it was to damaged to restore so i used this smaller one .. I must say it did'nt work very well (it's work was to let the engine rpm's take a slow lowering so it woudn't stall.. (haha.. stall... i never stalled a 240z engine..) ) So i took it off.. it was also to damaged inside it was'nt working very well.. The last 14 years i drove without it and do not mis that thing at all. My 240z is a usa car from feb 1971 with the non emission parts of a Dutch 1972 240z that i bought in 1991 for scrap.. The Dutch car was rusted away but was an excellent car for euro parts! The usa car was from california and had a 2,5 mm floor (!!!) in it with lots of bondo to make it watertight... also the beams under the floor were NON existend!!!!! I made by hand a completly new floor in the car as it was original.. pff.. ( Lots of work but now it's made from 0.8 mm steel with zinc coating.)

Here some pic's of my 240z euro version carbs. for as far i know.. The black damper was a non orig. part (orig was a little bigger.. and passified sink.)

Totally agree! And i've seen it also, Man.. that lady gaga can sing hey!! 👍

Yeah, what i meant to say was it's LIKE a sort of olive green.. Not specific the olive green.. (and at the end what IS olive green...? british racing green is a good example i think.. also a color that has a lot of different shades.. one is lighter or darker than the other.. I've seen different brands of cars with all different colors of British racing green.)

I don't know for the early z's but later 70's datsuns had olive green brakelines for sure! Last year i restored a 280zx (1979) and it has still the original olive green brakelines Here a pic taken from the internet (from this site!) 😊

Welcome here on this site, Have you installed the right yoke .. there should be ZERO play on the driveshaft is you try to shift it from left to right..(and up and down..) Also, i think you did'nt use the right seal (twice) on your gearbox outletshaft.. (as far i know you can use the seal from a 5 for a 4 speed gearbox.) Again there should be NO play on the driveshaft it will leak oil after a short while, the new seal gets worn fast. And.. pictures can help..

That could surprise you. A friend of mine had one about 10 years ago and we, (me behind the wheel) drove it a few miles.. It was a cabriolet also red.. We are both about 6 foot 4 Hahaha can you visualise it ? It was pretty fast and thats because it's light weight.. and the bike engine has enough power in it. (It was a just new restored car and engine was top!) They have.. like a bike, chain drive you know.. hahaha

Take a round piece of hard wood (piece of your broomstick) and give the pipe some little hits with it, from the inside of the pipe.. you will get that super smal dent out.. Just carfully with small hits. 😉 (or scuff it with the wood from inside to outside.. take your time. )

Take a good look.. a spoiler was standard on a 240z in the Netherlands for as far i know. I still got one laying around on my attick from my 1972 240z Orig. Dutch car. In this pic a story of Johan Cruyff our famous eh ... football ? uh soccer! player.. (I don't give a damn about that, In fact i BLOODY HATE IT!!! ) Here some of the rest of the pages i stumbled upon haha.. Good luck with your translations hihi...😁

Besides my L24 spare block i do have another L26 with a Restored E30 ! head (No not E31 a E30!) , it came out of a Z that was souped up! Never used it myself but it looks like a nice step up.. A E30 head is the head of a L20 6 cyl. Nissan engine, and together with a L26 it makes a nice compression number around 10,5 i think? Has someone else experience with this combination L26 with E30 head? I could sell the L26 with a E30 head.. prices would be like this one i just found on the dutch marketplace: EDIT: he changed the price of 3500 euro to "bieden"( translation: make a bid.) ≥ Datsun L28 Motor Gereviseerd - Overige Auto-onderdelen - Marktplaats.nl

I remember something.. The weight on the front springs is different (on a 240z) and therefore these springs are on a different setting? Do some investigation.. the orig. springs of a 240z front have different strength's.. (not interchangeable)

All i know of a viper it has a big 8,2 ltr engine.. put some new sparkplugs in it.. (they are all old anyway.) and interchange the ignitioncoil that's on the #2 with #3 so if next time the problem is in #3 the ignitioncoil on #3 is the culprit. (i think this engine has no distributor anymore?)

That pulley (where the fan normally is on) is a bit out of line? The belt looks a bit of a ghostbelt on that pic. haha.. it's there but not completly it looks like it disappears.. You know of course those carbs are not the original ones? If it's a engine that was never apart it's time to take it apart completely and inspect every part. (install all new gaskets and oilseals!) If it's a euro version block it probably has a E88 head and about 162 hp. (But with these carbs that could be a bit less or more..) As it has a starter on it, you could do a compressiontest before you buy it, that should be around 10 Bar. (155-160 psi) and best is that every cylinder has the same pressure. Watch out the engine could get a bit jumpy when you get the starter running.. take out al the sparkplugs.. look if there was extra oil in the bores. it will influence your compr. data.. Bring a good flashlight and a full battery. 😉

I agree, no L motor has that.. so this engine was already restored at one point. I'm surprised and very happy that a 16 year old is restoring a 240z!! Also .. NICE pictures, i now think you did'nt bite off more than you can shew.. Most (very) young people start an resto but never finish it. You'll get it finished i think!! On the rubber and poly stuff.. I personal HATE the poly.. rubber is MUch more forgiving.. the poly makes it to stiff. I have seen broken suspension, just because the poly was to hard.. did not give. I don't know where you live in NRW but i'm a few km of the city Goch/Kleve. Dld. I think it's fantastic that you restore a Datsun when thought of "a cool car" I drive a 240z now for 20 years (restored myself.) and is ready for another restore haha.. and it's the small boys that walk on the hand of their mother that shout: OH MOM look at that BEAUTIFUL CAR! 👍 I had that more than once. (These little boys grow up to restorers haha) Also people that start to video the drive by hahaha... With my just restored 280zx (on this site: 1979 slick roof 280zx) people spontaneously stop and say what a beauty!! (It's almost impossible to drive that car without someone complement it or getting a thumbs up.. once a roadworker shouted realy loud: Nice DATSUN! HAHA.. The most i'm excited about people who now are starting to put some thumbs up when they see me drive my almost as new 300zxtt !! I drive that car now for 15 years (only in the summer) and the only thing i got was a jealous look! People are clearly changing their opinion.. Show us your progress, we all love pictures! AND.. if your not sure how to do something also let us know, we (all) are here to help.

You have a 1973 240z engine L24? YOu know that these engines have flattop pistons that just come above the deck of the block? there was a service newsbulletin telling that these heads of a 1973 are different so watch out.. Btw.. Your a student? (I have never seen a student with the money for a restauration of such a car) .. have you thaught this through? Don't think "ow it's easy" .. There is a firm here in the Netherlands .. it sells 240z wrecks!!! for 10-15000 euro.. and about EVERY part needs to be repaired or renewed.. There are a lot of people that look through a pair of pink glasses at their cars but don't realise that these resto's cost a LOT of money. (I hope yours is not as bad..) ≥ Datsun 240Z (bj 1971) - Oldtimers - Marktplaats.nl I always tell people if you want a good reliable car you have to invest the money for a new car.. otherwise you will have a lot of brakedowns and exasperation. (irritation to the MAX!)

Not much indeed.. few milli amps but very high voltage.. so P=U x I gets still a few Watts to burn into the plastic cap.. 😉

A friend of my has one restored to new for 1500 euro's and lives near NRW Germany.. I told him and he contacts you for it.

Your blinkers could be rusted badly.. they look fine but the rear part can be very bad ( the ones in the front fender) making a sort of short circuit that will dim all your lights.. just a guess, but seen with other cars..

I always hear doors and bumpers are realy difficult to get.. surprised me not to see those on the list? (i hoarded those a few manny years ago hihi..)

Yesterday i looked for some ink for my printer, today i get buried under ink commercials.. pff .... I just ignore them..

I read Something nice said in the reactions on the page of the blue twotone 280zx, It sayd: "It was a nice counterpoint to my father’s ’78 280z and like Road and Track once said if you like the 280z you will probably love the 280zx." Last year i ended my 280zx restore and i drive my 280zx now.. the 240z sits in the garage, waiting for it's 50th birthday .. haha.. (Next feb.)

Oh i'm sure it's a zx thing to work with only 1 rivet. It's glued on.. but nissan thought that's not enough, so to take it off you need a drill. (if you want it intact) But my point was that i never see these ID plates in euro version (Z & ?) - ZX's, they only have the chassisnr under the hood and there is the only one because it's NOT on the dash either!