dutchzcarguy

I agree, no L motor has that.. so this engine was already restored at one point. I'm surprised and very happy that a 16 year old is restoring a 240z!! Also .. NICE pictures, i now think you did'nt bite off more than you can shew.. Most (very) young people start an resto but never finish it. You'll get it finished i think!! On the rubber and poly stuff.. I personal HATE the poly.. rubber is MUch more forgiving.. the poly makes it to stiff. I have seen broken suspension, just because the poly was to hard.. did not give. I don't know where you live in NRW but i'm a few km of the city Goch/Kleve. Dld. I think it's fantastic that you restore a Datsun when thought of "a cool car" I drive a 240z now for 20 years (restored myself.) and is ready for another restore haha.. and it's the small boys that walk on the hand of their mother that shout: OH MOM look at that BEAUTIFUL CAR! 👍 I had that more than once. (These little boys grow up to restorers haha) Also people that start to video the drive by hahaha... With my just restored 280zx (on this site: 1979 slick roof 280zx) people spontaneously stop and say what a beauty!! (It's almost impossible to drive that car without someone complement it or getting a thumbs up.. once a roadworker shouted realy loud: Nice DATSUN! HAHA.. The most i'm excited about people who now are starting to put some thumbs up when they see me drive my almost as new 300zxtt !! I drive that car now for 15 years (only in the summer) and the only thing i got was a jealous look! People are clearly changing their opinion.. Show us your progress, we all love pictures! AND.. if your not sure how to do something also let us know, we (all) are here to help.

You have a 1973 240z engine L24? YOu know that these engines have flattop pistons that just come above the deck of the block? there was a service newsbulletin telling that these heads of a 1973 are different so watch out.. Btw.. Your a student? (I have never seen a student with the money for a restauration of such a car) .. have you thaught this through? Don't think "ow it's easy" .. There is a firm here in the Netherlands .. it sells 240z wrecks!!! for 10-15000 euro.. and about EVERY part needs to be repaired or renewed.. There are a lot of people that look through a pair of pink glasses at their cars but don't realise that these resto's cost a LOT of money. (I hope yours is not as bad..) ≥ Datsun 240Z (bj 1971) - Oldtimers - Marktplaats.nl I always tell people if you want a good reliable car you have to invest the money for a new car.. otherwise you will have a lot of brakedowns and exasperation. (irritation to the MAX!)

Not much indeed.. few milli amps but very high voltage.. so P=U x I gets still a few Watts to burn into the plastic cap.. 😉

A friend of my has one restored to new for 1500 euro's and lives near NRW Germany.. I told him and he contacts you for it.

Your blinkers could be rusted badly.. they look fine but the rear part can be very bad ( the ones in the front fender) making a sort of short circuit that will dim all your lights.. just a guess, but seen with other cars..

I always hear doors and bumpers are realy difficult to get.. surprised me not to see those on the list? (i hoarded those a few manny years ago hihi..)

Yesterday i looked for some ink for my printer, today i get buried under ink commercials.. pff .... I just ignore them..

I read Something nice said in the reactions on the page of the blue twotone 280zx, It sayd: "It was a nice counterpoint to my father’s ’78 280z and like Road and Track once said if you like the 280z you will probably love the 280zx." Last year i ended my 280zx restore and i drive my 280zx now.. the 240z sits in the garage, waiting for it's 50th birthday .. haha.. (Next feb.)

Oh i'm sure it's a zx thing to work with only 1 rivet. It's glued on.. but nissan thought that's not enough, so to take it off you need a drill. (if you want it intact) But my point was that i never see these ID plates in euro version (Z & ?) - ZX's, they only have the chassisnr under the hood and there is the only one because it's NOT on the dash either!

And... Am I the only one to see that this Z is upside down on the hood !!! ????? DETAILS DETAILS..... 🙄

Oh i think it's more of a 106.500 miles car.. (The letters on the stick are completly gone.. not after 6500 miles) It's a good looking car.. the only trouble i have with those zx two seaters is i don't fit in there.. the seats in a 2+2 are much deeper. in a two seater i'm hitting the roof! (i'm 1.93 mtr.... what is it... 6 foot 5?) This plate has only one rivet!! (My 280zx 2+2 which is a euro version never had those plates in the door-opening.. No euro 280zx had that plate aparently!

WHAT is it?? Oh impossible.. 😂 Hihi.. yeah I got a 4 point safety harness in my 240z.. moving forward or any other direction is about impossible.. (The orig. are also in it but i never use those.) Happy new year to you all! Mart.

and.. The two tabs are for a german (or whatever) licenseplate. and the rear one is not screwed on because the place is needed for the real german plate.. The front Japanese plate is just for fun installed there, everybody knows (In Germany) this is a fake plate.. It is just an additional confirmation that it is about a Japanese car As long the 2 German plates are installed on the right spot, the german authorities will have no problem with it.. i think?

Agree, i installed a new out of the box slave-cylinder for the clutch under my 280zx years ago.. few days later i had to get the car of the lift.. and the pedal went right to the floor! HUH? The cylinder was cracked on it's back and leaked all the oil.. I went through my trash.. the box it came out sayd: made in Italy. Now i HATE the italians even more. Now i installed an original.. made in Japan!

Original is the best but these days pricy.. a lot of copycat stuff also on the market, i avoid it like the plague.. I drive z &zx now for 30 years and only once i had a dead alternator and once the fuelgauge lied to me.. so look for the original brand.. stay away from (chinese) junk! Yes it's cheap, it also worth nothing! And eventually turns your hobby into a major annoyance..

Hihi.. this will be an issue forever.. I don't mind so much to sit and drive on the WRONG side.. although i'm ambidexter i just don't like to shift with the left hand!

What ratio? Maybe i'm the guy standing besides the person with "i'm with stupid" on the shirt? 😉 But i still not understand. If you mean ratio between the wormwheel and the gearwheel.. then turning the steering wheel WILL be more difficult, as Derek says..

Sorry but what do you mean with quicker? In stead of 2,5 turns it's done from left to right in 2 turns or?? Then you need even more muscles to steer the car.. 😟

Its a old topic so better @moelk it.. @moelk

Oh yes.. the big Plus connector threaded fully to the end of the thread was also a hint on what was wrong..

Hihi.. The amps you could say.. (not voltage) Lesson in electricity.. Volts are always standing between 2 points.. Amperage is (current) in ampère going through a point/cable. Thats why you have to change your cable connection on your meter when you go from voltage to ampère. If your not good at electric things buy yourself a ampère clamp meter. You don't need to switch the cables (and make faults) and just put the wire you want to know the ampèrage from, into the clamp and the meter will tell you if there is a current and how much.. it's almost witchcraft! 😉 AND you don't need to open the circuit, thats a big plus! And your meter will NEVER blow up! Also a BBIIIIGGGG plus hey? Amp clamp meters can easely go to 1000 amps without braking down.

The only thing that comes up is your car has the Plus on the chassis.. the battery cables are on the wrong pole? they are different diameters so the cables are on the wrong spot. Does the Plus go to your chassis? and the minus go's to the starter? The ground should be minus and the big plus lead should go to the starter! Pictures show more than words! I would like to see whats the case ..

I've got a ISTOBAL.. 3,5 tons (metric) build in 1985 used daily in a garage.. restored and sold to me in 1995 and a fine machine! Made in Spain.. I would look for a good old one they are made well. Mine had new cables, a new paintjob and a new cylinder gasket and new pump.

Haha.. no.. i had to make a small dent in the rear left wheel housing to have a good fit for me behind the wheel! It's no problem it will come out when i remove both seats when/if i install the König seats.. As they are red/black they would fit very nice in my red 240z.

Hallo Reinier, jij hier? hihihi... Hello Reinier, you here? 😉 In the 70's they used these König seats among others..(I've seen them on google pic's in rally 240z also in yellow black!) Now at the moment i have a "scheel autostoel" in my 240z that gives me a lot of support for the corners and is also a much better seat than the original ones. I you go for some other seats better not sell the old ones, there comes a time you want to sell your car and original seats make a more easy sale.. Maybe some day i put these in my 240z that could use some updating...