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Everything posted by dutchzcarguy

  1. In my L24 and L28 i use 10w40. (even in my 300zx Vg30dett i use 10w40.. as it was recommended for the z32.) The L series engines are in medium to colder temps on 10w40 or 10w50.. i can imagine to use 20w50 but that's a heavy oil more used on engines that have many miles on it.. (It is possible that in the 280 engined cars the oilpressure light go's on when idling on 600rpm or so.. thats normal.. always check the oil on your camshaft when this is the case you'll see that it is oiled well and then that's OK! Also putting the idle rpm on 650-700 as is standard, solves this problem most of the time.)
  2. Thanks guys for the answers, i have not dicided yet but i take a fidanza or the original...i think the last, i like a engine that i can drive with 800rpm in high gear hahaha... I often did this with my first 280zx (in the '90's..) and it astonished me every time again that i could drive that car till i was at home ON the driveway in 5th! without any stumble! (just don't floor it on low rpm's and all is well..)
  3. I took a look (again) in the serv.man. (L20A-L24-L26-L28 series engines) and there is nothing about marking any of the rotating parts before taking it apart.. As i can see that the crankshaft and the flywheel have both theire balancing drilled holes i asume that they are balanced apart.. It would be a good idea to balance it all together as a extra.. (But just don't think i'm gonna take it all apart AGAIN! 🙈) I don't know how much a standard flywheel weighs, but i think it's more than twice the weight of a Fidanza ( seen 10,4 10,7 and 13 Lbs.) say almost 6 kg. a original is over 10 kg easely.. On second thoughts.. i think i leave it alone haha..
  4. Hi Guys, I've got a question and i think i know the answer but not sure haha.. As i'm slowly ending the resto of my 280zx slickroof i'm considering a light flywheel on the L28. I think the flywheel and crank are balanced apart of each other as they can be bolted together on more than one way? (6) .. I was thinking of putting one of my spare flywheels on a lathe and get rid of a few pounds haha.. Looked at a Fidanza flywheel but i think they are to light! (and also expensive!) And another question is do i need to re-balance the thinner flywheel? Has anyone here experience with this? THanks! Mart.
  5. Happy to hear your OK Cliff, Do you know if it was the omicron variant? or delta? If you did'nt loose taste i believe you had the omicron.. Btw.. ON topic.. @Mike I don't complain about the slow site, i'm here on a free ride and glad that i can do this for free! (i'm sitting home now for almost 22 years.. can't do much anymore so i'm glad to communicate with you guys about the hobby.) But i have not seen a reaction on here from you Mike since Zedhead started this topic.. Is there nothing you can do about it? Just asking.. i just clicked a topic and it just did'nt load ever.. then this topic and it loaded on the spot.. this is weird to say the least.. is'nt it? Hey Cliff.. i can imagine how happy you were when you could go to work! I wish i could to but i'm "o3" forever...... (Yeah i wanted to use a abriv.. 😉 )
  6. I think you have a 1973 car but a 1974 or later 260z console in it.. A 1969-1973 240z never had a seatbelt warning in it as far i know (Just looked in my 1971 240z serv.man. and it has none in it.. also no choke warninglight.. what i also see on the schematic above in steve's pic.)
  7. Agreed! When i click a thread it can take forever to load sometimes. then i click another thread near the one i clicked on the homepage and it loads immediately. when i have read that one i go back and then it will load also.. Or.. after 10 clicks it loads or never loads.. then i go to another thread and come back and it loads without a problem.. weird.. (on a average (not to slow and not superfast) desktop using windows edge.)
  8. Yes you were hihihi... Yeah, but often the harness is in bad or very bad condition after all those years.. (The harness i'm talking about has been in a dutch car for 15 years (about) and is in a box for over 25 years.. I like to keep it for the numerous connectors that are in there. Often very specific ones not found on the market easely.) Later on i googled Dieppe again.. and yeah.. i now got Canada also! (It looked like it was in the netherlands and in France..) Keep us posted with some pics of your progress!
  9. Hi Bruno, Nice build.. Maybe i can help.. i got a 1974-1978 Datsun 260z complete wiringharness in very good condition! (Before someone begins/starts.. YES Overhere (Netherlands) there was a 260z in 1974,75,76,77,78!!! We had no 280z.. it was never imported to europe.) Only trouble is that the (Dumb A**e) guy that dismantled the car did cut the harness there were it go's through the firewall! As you need just parts of it it could be ideal for you as one could easely take the right cables out of the bundle and make a little weld.. Were are you located? Netherlands NB says to me noord brabant haha or is it france as google (also) mentioned/says?? About the cables, it's a complete set for a s30 and all specific (!) connectors are there! ( i will inspect them that they are perfect before i sell anything.. ofcourse..)
  10. Like once a teacher said: there are no stupid questions, there are only stupid students that don't ask.. Now.. You do know that when things get older it sometimes needs some lube... oeps..😂
  11. Nice block, only the freeze plug just on the right of the oilfilter is a bit outside it's hole.. normally they are just in the hole with the edge of the lid IN the hole.. On a L24-28 they have a edge were the lid sort of clicks in..? I always use a bit of sealer. (don't know these brass ones i use steel ones with a sort of 85 degrees edge. they catch the edge in the holes.. if you know what the ... i mean haha)
  12. Your mechanism could already be in the latched position, unlatch with a screwdriver (turn it in opposit direction) this has to be a sudden thing..
  13. yes.. but they had all also old rings in it i bet.. haha so no worry's.. i bought a universal box with LOTS of rings once for a few bucks and there is always a ring in there that fits.. Take out the old one and you know what you need.. Oh and btw... a transmission is around 1500 euro's overhere... oeps sorry 🙈
  14. That beverly hills car.. is a garanteed MONEY PITT first class! (look at all those holes! and the floor! It's a parts car for sure..)
  15. look up a sales folder of the 240z.. i wouldn't know ... blackish? very dark grey?
  16. I'm not sure but i think you can get the radiator out on the right side were also the heatervalve is located. I bought one and i discovered a very small leak at a hose clamp.. so it payed right back for it! the set was about 69€ so with the lower prices in USA they are about 40 bucks haha
  17. google says.. Is there a blacking kit for stainless steel? ALL PURPOSE METAL BLACKING SOLUTIONS Blackfast Chemicals manufactures a unique product specifically designed for the Blacking of Iron and Steel, Stainless Steel and Aluminium. Our chemical blacking kits are both safe and easy to use. Producing a high quality metal finish that will withstand both corrosion and humidity. Do some test and let us know what happened! Blackfast - Cost-effective all purpose metal blacking solution
  18. I have seen a lot examples of blacked trim, and they all fail in a few years.. stainless is very hard.. and HARD to paint .. maybe chemical like i sayd above..
  19. And then plastic-dip.. maybe someone has some experience with that? But i think it's going to be difficult.. Maybe this, .. there is some chemical that is used for passifying steel that gives a black end result.. but i don't know if this works on stainless steel! You could test it i guess.. 🙂 (could be a nice endresult a matt blackish lock!)
  20. Yes!.. the best pump, not that cheap sheet metal impeller.
  21. No, you don't need to remove the engine for that.. why should you? I would google for some stuff that cleans out your kitchen boiler.. i never had a engine that bad clogged.. get a advice of a good radiator shop, they have the expertise on this.. (ask for a descaler for your cooling system.)
  22. Hahaha... 😂 we in europe do not work with Lbs's or Psi's but even i know that are 2 different worlds, yes 16 Psi.. that's about right.. (little over 1 bar/ato.) Have you cleaned out the complete engine waterworks? maybe there is a lot of dirt/limestone in your coolingsystem.
  23. ?? what is that.. you mean 1.6 ?? that is 1.6/2 minus 10 percent is .72 kg is 720mbar pressure?? i don't know what you mean with 16Lbs.. 1.6 pounds over pressure is much to low.. (mine has 1 or 1,2 kg = 1000 or 1200 mbar = 2,64 Lbs! (16 Lbs would be MUCH to high, your radiator can not hold 7,2 bar (ato).. whatever... it will explode.. ) Also does the clutch from the fan work correct? if you give it a good pull it has to stop in quarter or less turn.. when hot/warm.. when cold it's about half a turn..
  24. Yes, but in the corvette there is room for a big radiator and it was made for it.. this is not the case with the old datsuns.. Okay i was a bit harsh on the alu radiator, but i get a bit angry of the fact that they are praised to be such good (Chinese made) rad's and they are junk.. a good radiator for €169 is junk.. I use a copper original in my 240z and it's in there for decades..
  25. I would be ashamed to death.. asking for some money (by going on: gofundme..) for a airco???.. After buying a car that needs a lot of other repairs first.. It's your decision ofcourse to buy a car on a loan.. but i think thats not the right car to loan money for.. haha.. You be surprised how much trouble there can be under that white paint... I have seen many car dreamers crash.. i think your the next one on the long list.. Do i need to ask.. have you ever worked on cars... as you did'nt see any problems on the pic's ... i say.. i Know! your a first car restorer.. i wish you the best but it takes more than money to restore a rustbucket into a good car! (It can be a large MONEYPITT!)
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