Patcon

Mine was badly corroded around the edges. I bead blasted it first to try to remove the corrosion then I shot some PB blaster on it for a few days before trying to open it.

Good pictures Blue CO the compression seems to help because the diaphragm is sandwiched between the shells. It has to be compressed some to reduce the friction on the interference fit of the halves. There is no real lock, sort of an overgrown fuel tank sender ring.

I believe Glyptal is a high end coating that was originally used in electrical transformers. Racers like to use it in their blocks to seal the casting so no loose grit can shed into the oil and it enhances oil drain back to the sump. At least that is the way I remember it. I researched it once for a motor rebuild but never used it...

You've got that cool lathe!! I am sure you can come up with sufficient leverage I believe Zed is right, I didn't try the press until I had to come up with a solution to not being able to reassemble it...

That's great he will come to you. Keep a fire extinguisher handy.

That's a good looking car

I think it looks great. Don't feel ignored, just didn't jump in...

That's a good price for a 73'. Are there any pictures of the lot...?

I had seen articles about homemade Lizard skin products. In this whole process (car restoration) I always look at the cost savings vs. benefit. If I make a DIY Lizard skin and I have a failure or problem later, was it worth it? There will be thousands of dollars tied up in this car by the end. Am I willing to take a chance on a DIY product to save $100 or $150, for me the answer was no...for some the answer is yes. As I get older I am less inclined to gamble on getting the results I want versus saving money. I don't have time to do this car twice...FWIW my 2 cents

The piston part has a metal piece that slides in from the side and keeps the pushrod captive to the plastic center section. It fits in the rectangular slot just below the cylindrical section of the plastic piece This is the tool I made to open a booster To hold the booster in the vise I took a piece of maple and drilled it so the studs fit in it On reassembly we couldn't get it together so I put it in the press and it went together really easy Be careful on disassembly to make some marks or take pictures so on reassembly the vacuum port is in the correct location. There are like six options... This booster had a ripped section in the diaphram at the bottom probably from brake fluid. I used some black silicone to seal that area up. It seemed to work but I don't know how long. I believe it was on the car I sold a while back Even with the long leverage of the 2x4's I had to put my foot against the work bench to pull hard enough to get it open

I have some pictures of the tool we built. Some 2x4's and some plywood. I will try to find them...

Me thinks your staples are too tight...

Those are some interesting products

I don't see how that can be repaired properly on the car. Needs TIG welding but it will have to be cleaned really well first. You aren't going to get it clean with out a good bit of solvent. You could contact some professional welders or a good machine shop. They might get you a better answer, sorry...I don't see epoxy working either, if the epoxy fails it will be hard to get the epoxy out for clean welding...

Went to that vendors store. Looks like he is trying to clean out the shop or going out of business. He is selling large lots of a number of things. It seems like it would be hard to sell things like that. Most people don't need 8 window cranks or a dozen brake light switches. He had some interesting listings if I had money to be hoarding parts although some of the prices seem kind of high...

Lizard Skin use to makes 3 products: insulator, sound control and top coat. The topcoat is new and was not available when I did my car. I used both. I used the insulator on the fire wall, tunnel, floors and roof and then covered all of that with sound control. I used 2 gallons (1 of each) on the current project

I would say no, it's not enough...

Maybe the mast is a replacement but the rest is original???

That's wrong!

Absolutely and don't throw any automatic tranny stuff away

I used both of those products. I shot the insulator first, then the sound deadener over that. I like them! They kill the sound in the chassis really well. I shot inside every where I could, even inside the doors. It needs to be applied heavy enough or it will have a rough texture. Underneath I used 3m under coater, like 8 cans or so

I really think the irony of this is that in 20-25 years automatics will be worth more because only about 7% of new cars are manual and new drivers aren't learning how to drive them. The 40 yr olds of the future aren't gonna want to buy our cars if they can't drive them. The auto's will be rare and highly valued. I may be wrong, just a theory...

I agree, it has a lot of value. I was surprised it didn't sell @ $58k though. He might find a buyer willing to go more but it will have to be at one of the big auction houses. I don't think it's going to happen on Ebay...

If you're good with electronics I have a 5 amp'er that doesn't work quite right, but shipping might not be worth it...

I am hesitant to go down the home brew plating path, especially after Namerows problems