Patcon

If it overheated, I agree with Zed, it's probably a head issue...aluminum heads don't like being overheated...

@Demo1986 Is this car on craigslist asking $16k? If it is, then I would say that's too much money for a 260z 2+2. I might be wrong, maybe some of these other guys might chime in....

Duhh! I couldn't solve the acronym, sort of shot from yesterday...

With that size business I am sure they have a lot of over head. It wouldn't take a huge drop in customers to drive them out of business...

I know some one posted this up in a thread a while back but I can't find it. Went and got it yesterday. 20+ hours round trip I am thinking parts car at this point. Not a special year and lots of rust

WCR?

I wonder if they are still owned by the original guy? Also 150,000 cars a year through a body shop is huge. If you don't have good employees and good management you are gonna have problems!

The early 510's from about the same time period may have used the same hinge. A little research may be in order. The hinges on my son's 510 look very similar to the early Z hinges...

The early hinges are hard to find. 26th is probably right, repair is probably easier than sourcing one. they can rust badly and when they do the little scissors arms just fold up...

You replaced the master cylinder and the slave cylinder, did you use remanufactured parts or new parts?

The pushrod on the master cylinder side of the booster just sits inside the booster. There is a small rubber disc maybe an 1" in diameter and a 1/4" thick that just sits between the pushrod and the main plastic disc inside the booster. If you pull out the pushrod to adjust it, the disc can fall down into the booster. Then you have to remove the booster and shake it to try to get the disc out. No fun! The brakes should get firm. If they don't I would suspect worn rubber brake lines flexing or air in the system somewhere. Make sure the bleed screws on the front calipers are on the top! Sometimes you have to resort to really tight channel locks to get the brake lines loose but many times that requires some new lines

Zed You are probably right. I didn't look that close at the price or bids. I saw the hole behind the headlight bucket, which is an odd place. Some one asked for more pictures in the question and answer section. If the rest of the car isn't real rusty it could be interesting. One upside to a salvage car is you wouldn't have to be as afraid to drive it, since it's already branded and should be a little cheaper to get into to

I thought it was a really bright metallic color for the year, that's why I wondered if it was original as I believe they claimed

Is this an original color? I like it. I don't know if I have ever seen one that color... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-Z-Series-/252511939601?forcerrptr=true&hash=item3acae26c11:g:27gAAOSwIgNXvifY&item=252511939601

The repairs look good, but who knows. Already $4k plus... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-Z-Series-/182252121775?forcerrptr=true&hash=item2a6f12aeaf:g:jf0AAOSwV0RXulM9&item=182252121775

It's back... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-Z-Series-/162178550187?forcerrptr=true&hash=item25c29849ab:g:USMAAOSwcL5XNPOH&item=162178550187

If the push rod from the master cylinder through the booster is adjusted too long then the fluid can't push back from the brakes. They getter firmer and firmer and then heat up causing them to lock down. If you crack open a bleed port, fluid will probably spurt out and the car will roll again...It can be trial and error to get the booster rod adjusted right. Don't drop the reaction disc!!!

Sounds like a good plan for a next step. Be careful...

Look on the side of the head and see if there are any identifying casting numbers

Forks will work to separate ball joints but they typically destroy the dust boots if you ever work on one where they are good...

Mathew, Are you asking about gains from boring a stock L24 block? If you are, there aren't going to be any! Admittedly there will be some small gain but it will be negligible. Not worth the cost. Also does your $150 increase in building cost include the new pistons and rings? That seems kind of cheap for the machine work and the new parts... Now increased compression will help but the small over bore not so much

The car is fixable if someone is properly motivated. I fixed a 330Ci for my wife's daily driver a while back where both rear quarters were buckled. Put it on the rack and they both pulled out. You would need a good frame man, a quarter and a tail light panel...As it sits the car is worth what someone will pay for it. I have seen Z's selling at the salvage auctions for $1,500 - $3,500 for really nice cars with lighter hits...

I would agree the car is probably in the mid teens maybe a little more. One place to look is Ebay in completed auctions. Look for cars that are in similar condition to support your valuation. I agree with Pop's her insurance is going to low ball you. A lawyer might be necessary

If you have a good fitting open end wrench get a short section of pipe that fits over the other end of the wrench to increase your leverage

What are you asking for the car the way it sits? Is it at a salvage auction?