Patcon

In the lower picture I believe the door sits out from the chassis a little. The door is what needs adjustment. Start with the weatherstrips the way Zkars suggest. If you won't take good advise the help dries up...

@professorpuffypants Trace it...where does it go?

So you are going to have to pay more to get the door lines fixed and resprayed, after you already had to deal with overspray all over the dash versus just using a better shop in the first place!

I thought the same thing. The location didn't seem overly odd for an alarm because it would be less obvious on the passenger side

I rebuild and sell salvage cars. All of the cars I have done have salvage titles and all for very different reasons. Three of our daily drivers are salvage titled. Some buyers won't consider a salvage title and some will if you can show what was damaged and that is was properly repaired. If I had a project Z with a salvage title I wouldn't think twice about repairing it and making it a driver. Salvage title cars tend to bring about 80% of clean retail numbers. Although a salvage title car will probably never appreciate the way a clean title car will, but on the other side you can have less fear of damaging it because it is branded already. Your car may be salvage for a reason other than collision, flood for instance will draw a salvage title and sometimes even theft recovery will. The car I am currently restoring had enough damage to be a salvage title but the title is clear. I suspect a lot of old Z's have enough damage to be titled "salvage" because for so long they were relatively cheap. I have Grannyknot's view on old Z's save everyone you can, rust will take care of the rest...

There are some interesting parts there. I was curious about a serpentine belt set up. There are water pump and damper pullies there, but I wonder about the rest of the pieces to complete the conversion...

Well if you could come up with a later model that would work and not have terrible aesthetics that might improve the biggest weakness of the Z master cylinder in my opinion, and that is leaking into the booster!

It looks like you have to cut a hole just above the frame rail to allow the gas strut to mount to the outside of the frame rail...

I use those on several of the classics I have sitting around. I still really believe, the bigger risk for theft is a roll back not a drive off, so battery or not it's gone. That is why I like the tracking solutions

If I had to guess I would say the switch on the passenger side is for an alarm system or ignition kill, judging by the twisted pair wiring that appears to go to it. The knob near it is a fresh air vent control. The knobs below the steering column surround are not stock. You just need to trace them down manually. If I had to guess I would say they are a PO's attempt at choke control...

After seeing all your other lathe work I am sure you will come up with something that works really good. Maybe something with a threaded socket that takes threaded pipe for leverage. NPT pipe is readily available at Depot and Lowes in various lengths... If necessary!

That looks like a pretty good system

That's a good idea on using the internals from the reman. I found booster diaphragms online from several vendors but I would have to buy a minimum of 1000 and that would take a while to sell off to other Z owners! None of the booster rebuilders want to sell the internals to a DIY'er

what exactly was the problem on the starter?

Or you could get some speed bleeders...

I don't know the history of your car, but are you sure the seat covers are OE?

If the ring eyes on the solenoid and the starter are oriented towards each other it is possible they could arc when cranking...IIRC

This site is excellent! It has some great members and an amazing amount of knowledge. Sometimes members occasionally "lock horns" but for the most part the banter is friendly and fun...

Lathe and a milling machine!

JB Weld is an epoxy. It works for many things. It would not be my first choice for this repair because it is an easy thing to pull it and have it re-soldered. If your new car with high strength steels gets damaged in an accident the panel repairs will most likely be completed with 2 part epoxy. So it is not unrealistic to use an epoxy for some repairs, even structural panel replacement! I can think of a number of places where I would use it on a Z and have. This just isn't where I would feel it's necessary...but I happen to have a great radiator shop not too far away

I thought 220 Psi sounded high for regular rubber lines...

Looks great!!

" Even compared to the electronic fuel injection systems of today, the MFI system has a very high injection pressure. Fuel is squirted out of the injectors at a remarkably high 220-250 PSI. This high pressure aids in the atomization of the fuel, which in turn increases the surface area of the mixture. This results in a more efficient and complete burn of the fuel." Found that on Pelican Parts, very reputable Porsche Parts house http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/101_Projects_Porsche_911/30-Mfi_Info/30-Mfi_Info.htm If it can handle those kinds of pressures it will be fine for a Z. Are they the right ID size?

It's a California car which is good but no carbs, automatic and a little rough inside. $2,500 may be a little optimistic. I have a hard time pinning down values these days the way prices are moving lately...

There is no danger from the speaker wires. More current on the lighting circuits...