Patcon

Austin, Sounds good. Lot's of great roads with in reasonable distance and really high speed limits... @Mike W My wife is from Fredericksburg so we should make it. She suggested a road route out that way through the hill country. A number of vineyards out that way too...

Where is Zcon 2017?

The supercharged Z is really interesting. I wonder who makes the hardware for that?

I looked through some of the cars. I have seen many of them on Craigslist. I wonder how he could be making money off of this? There are a few ads, I don't know if there are enough to support the site...

If I recall right, the crank sensor is very sensitive to interference. I believe it needs shielding and needs to be routed away from other EM sources...

We done!

We done!

Wish we had some info earlier Zup. We will be praying. Let me know if there is anyway we can help. Our door is always open...

The only other thing to check is the VIN on the firewall...Too bad it's so far away

@SteveJ

A helper is a good idea. The glass makes the hatch pretty heavy and awkward. Remove the hatch strut first...

Ditto...

Yes, you have to remove the hatch. The break looks to be between the hatch sheet metal and the clip that screws to the hatch hinge. Mine was broken the same way and I believe on the same side. There are large Philips screws into the body hinge, if I remember correctly. They can be hard to get out without stripping them. Put some penetrant on them for a day or two before you try. You should be able to locate the bracket by looking at where it sat originally. I would drill out the remaining spot welds and treat it with weld thru primer then locate and reweld...

WD40 will remove some paint but I doubt it would touch catalyzed paint. No harm in trying unless you decide to paint the dash...

I have seen that failure before. There is no corrosion protection between the hinge plate and the hatch. The welds are just spot welds. They corrode and then break. I cleaned the one I saw and rewelded it. The hatch metal and bracket metal were both solid on the one I did. They need to be sealed up well to keep water out of the connection. The bracket has a lot of load on it...

Ouch!!!

Welcome in. What is the vin number? Many members add the year of the car to their signature line. It helps later when you post questions so people know which vehicle you have...

I suspect at 1200 FPs the pellets are going all the way through the squirrel and into the tree underneath...

That's great and I bet the resistance is lower now too

If it's catalyzed paint it is probably not coming off with a solvent that's not going to hurt the dash skin. If it's not catalyzed you should get your money back...maroon or grey scuff pad or some fine sand paper maybe, since your dash isn't pristine but it will probably haze the areas you work on. Or you could just use some black vinyl paint and recolor the whole dash...

I could probably get it done $6-7,000 cheaper here, maybe more, but our cost of living is much lower so body shop rates are correspondingly lower. Also our regulations are probably looser so the shops overhead is lower here too. If I knew someone in Arizona and I could ship it and save $10,000, I would! As for putting this kind of money into a 73, while the earlier cars are bringing more money it won't be long until this will make more sense. We have seen really nice cars done with strokers or well done engine builds and all the mods for several years now be priced at $40k and above. So if the car is neatly done and clean I don't think you would get hurt that bad if you had to sell it...

That's a lot of work and for where you live the numbers probably aren't out of line. I would recommend you don't have them cut and buff anything until after you have the car assembled. You are likely to damage a panel somewhere and they could touch it up before buffing it out...

I don't doubt it. It was reasonably priced