Patcon

That's a good looking car. Wish the airdam was painted though

Looks great!

@Diseazd ^^^previous posts

That sounds like a plan!

The triples are much more desirable than the downdrafts. If the rust repair has already been done then this car is further ahead. Also no concerns over flairs and fiberglassing in quarter panels and tail lights. Is more costly though...

I would suspect that any street cam you would consider will not be a problem. I can't imagine you will be spinning the engine at high enough rpm's for it to be an issue. The head work necessary to spin above 7,000 rpm's can get pretty intensive. You should rely on some of the folks here like Dizeased who has built multiple engines. Many engine builders haven't built as many as he has...

I thought so too. Not surprised it's already gone

That's the way I like to buy them! Inside dusty and no apparent rust. I suspect there will still be some little spots but pretty complete. Nice looking project... @Jake54 This would be a better project for you. Brakes and engine but no major rust issues. You can probably get it transported for $600-$700 to your door...maybe twice that. Depending on which Vancouver you are in...

That is correct. As you type the name in, a drop down list appears and it filters down the results as you type it out. You have to select the name out of the drop down. If you tag the wrong name by accident you have to erase all of the name and begin over to get the drop down back

Of course you are! Hate I can't make it. I have been looking forward to it after last year... If I'm lucky I will have a running Z next year if it's not too far

Yeah but when your under there doing some maintenance, it will be a joy to work on!

When you find another candidate by all means post it up in this thread and we will try to point you in the right direction...

@Mark Maras

Do you have the tools to do this kind of work? A good place to work? A good welder? How limited are your funds? The floor boards are $300 or so. The battery cut will be close to a $100 probably. Then there is a lot more to spend money on, so don't get into this if you won't have several thousand to invest in this on top of the car cost, at least to get it driveable. I am sure there will be lots of surprises. The doors are shot. I would suspect the rockers need work, the dog legs, rear wheel wells possibly...I would not trust his description for the front frame rails either

Possibly, these cars are appreciating rapidly so project cars are getting a lot more expensive. This would have been a couple of hundred bucks 5 years ago. This is a serious project though!!!! You need to figure there is twice the rust than what you can see. If you're up for the welding work and have the money, time and resources by all means. Really good floor boards are available from Charles Osbourne. The battery tray metal is not available after market. I would find a donor car for that metal, at least the battery tray. I have fabricated that metal under the battery tray and it is hard to make from flat sheet metal...

That's great, against some serious competition

Looks good! When you dress the welds down it will look perfect...

Are you talking about rod interference at the block or something else?

Thanks Jim I may separate plating batches into groups that need baking and groups that don't. I knew split washers and Belleville washers would crack. I was more worried about suspension bolts...I hadn't thought about clamps

I wonder if our application is really that susceptible to hydrogen embrittlement? It looks like 4 hrs @ 375dF for post plating hydrogen removal

Come on! Bring Wendy and spend the night. We will have the guest house ready for you

That sounds like a good start.. Good to see you making progress again!

Doesn't have a VIN number listed. Could be a good start...

Ok I messed with this some more. I went through and redid the battery cables and the chassis ground at the voltage regulator. Some one had a red cable for the ground with some black electrical tape and a black cable for positive with some red electrical tape. So we remade all of those and cleaned all the connections at the starter. New connectors at the battery. Had the cover off the headlight relay and tried the headlights. No joy...They don't appear to burn at all. The high low switch seems to work because the relay moves and we can make it toggle with the high beam controls at steering wheel. We have other electrical issues too : Not charging No brake lights No wipers No reverse lights Half a dozen loose connections

The plating tank, where the zinc coating is applied, is the only tank that uses current. The chromate tanks are just a dipping solution but I believe they have an acid base to make the process work...