Patcon

I believe I have a suitable candidate from a 76 280Z. You may be able to find something closer from one of the other forum members though...

I don't think that is a door spring. They have space between the coils when uninstalled...

I watched a car on Ebay recently near the SC coast that had similar or more rust and it sold for $1,500 or so. Mechanically it was worse because all of the drive train was out and who knows what was and wasn't there. the interior was also trashed. This use to be a $400 car but not anymore. I would rather have the damage up front than rust any day. I did that to my first Z back in college, new hood and air dam and was good to go. I am sure the radiator support can be straightened unless it is really mangled. They are fairly light so it should just pull out. What is the asking price?

Did you drive it yet? How is it?

I was assuming that the fuel was sloshing up onto hotter parts of the fuel bowls and vaporizing. That seemed like the only effect swerving would have on vapor lock.

Jim, I have several rear bumpers laying around. If you want PM me and we can see if I have something you need... C

I get a catalog that has protective coatings in there for construction projects and stuff. I don't have one laying around right now and I can't recall the name. There is probably something in there that would work. I tried to google "static protective filmns" but didn't find anything really exciting there. Ahh I found it! www.pro-tect.com

I had a L18 head shipped from Australia, not quite as heavy but was about $100 AusD. I would think NZ wouldn't be tremendously higher...

He's willing to ship worldwide. Probably much cheaper than the air fare unless you happen to be in the neighborhood...

Have you had it professional aligned yet?

If you ran the DCOE concealed FI bodies you would three of them and a triple carb intake

Those are really cool!

Well that's a problem, all the cars I'm emotionally attached to don't run. Some don't roll. My work truck get's saved because with out it I'm out of business. The suburban get's saved and stuffed with as many non replaceables as possible

True but at this customer level. They may be at one of their other homes. Might not be local to the car at the time and if it's well insured aren't worried about. Maybe they got in the Duesenberg instead...

Unfortunately paint work can be really expensive., especially if you live in a small community with limited choices. $8k is high for paint but having it fixed will probably not be cheap either. If you figure it could take someone 40 hours or more to sand the car down, fix any blemishes, prime, mask, tack it and respray at $40-50 an hour plus materials. It starts to add up. I don't want to be negative but I don't want you to be shocked either. If you can find a shop that will work with you and walk you through a lot of the prep work you could do a lot of it your self and try to save some cash. You can wash the car, degrease it with wax and grease remover and wet sand it with a good sanding block to whatever the shop wants and let them check it, prep it and spray it. The lion's share of the work is the sanding not the painting

If you do drill it, you will need to think about preventing corrosion at the fresh holes or the plating can begin peeling there from rust...

Many of the prices on the site aren't too bad. If I were going to do it I might take a chance on a fresh water flood car. We have dried them out before and they work fine...

I have looked at buying wrecked Ferrari's in the past and repairing them. Look for used parts but make sure you have a healthy heart first. It will take your breath away. A used front hood costs more than most of us paid for our whole cars. Used head lights a couple of grand each. Get's really expensive quick...

Not likely, it will just make the bumps shinier. It is hard to get good shine until the surface is smooth, which takes wet sanding...

I hate that! I was planning on using you in the future...

The upper picture has lots of orange peel in it. If the underlying primer is smooth that could be wet sanded and buffed but I don't know what you'll end up with. Did a professional shop spray the car? If so they need a lot more practice. I don't have a high line gun and work in a homemade paint booth and my paint comes out smoother than that. I hate that for you...

The circlip is removed when disassembling the pump. Blue posted a video a while back about rebuilding water pumps. The mechanic shows it in that video

@Blue

Thanks, Jim I didn't see that So they are LMC, that explains the other part of the business. I am sure the volumes are better in their other lines and parts are probably easier to source. I understand the business decision but it is unfortunate none the less...

The factory manuals are available in the downloads area of the site. I believe they are also available at "Xenon"??? (Guys)